2021-04-30-1920s-portrayal-of-chinese-people.ipynb

Kernel: Python 3 (Anaconda 2020)

text_file = "russell_problemofchina/19172.txt"

with open(text_file, 'r') as f:
    content = f.read()

wordlist = content.split()

wordfreq = []

for word in wordlist:
    wordfreq.append(wordlist.count(word))

len(wordlist)

92247

word_dictionary = dict(zip(wordlist, wordfreq))

word_dictionary.items()

dict_items([('Project', 78), ("Gutenberg's", 2), ('An', 29), ('Australian', 5), ('in', 2165), ('China,', 104), ('by', 632), ('George', 5), ('Ernest', 3), ('Morrison', 3), ('This', 49), ('eBook', 5), ('is', 1113), ('for', 620), ('the', 6458), ('use', 30), ('of', 3507), ('anyone', 10), ('anywhere', 3), ('at', 425), ('no', 203), ('cost', 21), ('and', 2450), ('with', 944), ('almost', 43), ('restrictions', 2), ('whatsoever.', 3), ('You', 17), ('may', 65), ('copy', 8), ('it,', 38), ('give', 33), ('it', 389), ('away', 36), ('or', 266), ('re-use', 2), ('under', 122), ('terms', 28), ('Gutenberg', 19), ('License', 8), ('included', 4), ('this', 283), ('online', 4), ('www.gutenberg.org', 2), ('Title:', 1), ('China', 171), ('Being', 1), ('Narrative', 1), ('a', 1991), ('Quiet', 1), ('Journey', 1), ('Across', 1), ('to', 2151), ('Burma', 30), ('Author:', 1), ('Release', 1), ('Date:', 1), ('September', 2), ('4,', 3), ('2006', 1), ('[EBook', 1), ('#19172]', 1), ('Language:', 1), ('English', 37), ('Character', 1), ('set', 23), ('encoding:', 1), ('ASCII', 1), ('***', 6), ('START', 1), ('OF', 70), ('THIS', 6), ('PROJECT', 4), ('GUTENBERG', 3), ('EBOOK', 2), ('AN', 4), ('AUSTRALIAN', 4), ('IN', 33), ('CHINA', 17), ('Produced', 2), ('Thierry', 2), ('Alberto', 2), ('Online', 2), ('Distributed', 2), ('Proofreading', 2), ('Team', 2), ('http://www.pgdp.net', 2), ('*', 20), ('+------------------------------------------------------------+', 4), ('|', 218), ("Transcriber's", 1), ('Note:', 1), ('Obvious', 1), ('typographical', 1), ('errors', 2), ('have', 273), ('been', 241), ('corrected', 3), ('text.', 1), ('For', 40), ('complete', 6), ('list,', 1), ('please', 2), ('see', 69), ('bottom', 2), ('document.', 1), ('Macrons', 1), ('are', 570), ('shown', 15), ('as', 565), ('[=o]', 1), ('[=u]', 1), ('[Illustration:', 31), ('THE', 110), ('AUTHOR', 2), ('WESTERN', 7), ('CHINA.]', 4), ('BEING', 1), ('NARRATIVE', 1), ('A', 101), ('QUIET', 1), ('JOURNEY', 11), ('ACROSS', 1), ('TO', 28), ('BURMA', 3), ('BY', 3), ('GEORGE', 1), ('ERNEST', 1), ('MORRISON', 1), ('M.D.', 2), ('EDIN.,', 1), ('F.R.G.S.', 1), ('_THIRD', 1), ('EDITION_', 1), ('LONDON:', 1), ('HORACE', 1), ('COX', 1), ('WINDSOR', 1), ('HOUSE,', 1), ("BREAM'S", 1), ('BUILDINGS', 1), ('E.C.', 1), ('MDCCCCII', 1), ('JOHN', 1), ('CHIENE,', 1), ('M.D.,', 1), ('F.R.C.S.E.,', 1), ('F.R.S.E.,', 1), ('ETC.,', 1), ('PROFESSOR', 1), ('SURGERY', 1), ('UNIVERSITY', 1), ('EDINBURGH,', 1), ('WHO', 1), ('GAVE', 1), ('ME', 1), ('BACK', 1), ('POWER', 1), ('LOCOMOTION.', 1), ('I', 876), ('GRATEFULLY', 1), ('INSCRIBE', 1), ('VOLUME.', 1), ('CONTENTS.', 1), ('CHAPTER', 46), ('I.', 4), ('PAGES', 1), ('INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY', 2), ('ABOUT', 6), ('MISSIONARIES', 4), ('AND', 34), ('CITY', 25), ('HANKOW', 2), ('1-11', 1), ('II.', 2), ('FROM', 15), ('WANHSIEN,', 4), ('WITH', 13), ('SOME', 12), ('ACCOUNT', 2), ('CHINESE', 15), ('WOMEN', 2), ('RAPIDS', 2), ('YANGTSE', 5), ('12-23', 1), ('III.', 2), ('WANHSIEN', 2), ('CHUNGKING', 5), ('24-34', 1), ('IV.', 2), ('CHUNGKING--THE', 2), ('CUSTOMS--THE', 2), ('FAMOUS', 2), ('MONSIEUR', 2), ('HAAS,', 2), ('FEW', 2), ('WORDS', 2), ('ON', 16), ('OPIUM', 2), ('FALLACY', 1), ('35-49', 1), ('V.', 2), ('SUIFU--CHINESE', 2), ('INNS', 1), ('50-62', 1), ('VI.', 2), ('SUIFU--THE', 2), ('INLAND', 2), ('MISSION,', 2), ('GENERAL', 2), ('REMARKS', 10), ('63-75', 1), ('VII.', 2), ('SUIFU', 3), ('CHAOTONG,', 4), ('PROVINCE', 2), ('YUNNAN--CHINESE', 2), ('PORTERS,', 2), ('POSTAL', 2), ('ARRANGEMENTS,', 2), ('BANKS', 1), ('76-96', 1), ('VIII.', 2), ('ITS', 4), ('POVERTY,', 2), ('INFANTICIDE,', 2), ('SELLING', 2), ('FEMALE', 2), ('CHILDREN', 2), ('INTO', 4), ('SLAVERY,', 2), ('TORTURES,', 2), ('INSENSIBILITY', 2), ('PAIN', 1), ('97-106', 1), ('IX.', 2), ('MAINLY', 2), ('DOCTORS', 1), ('107-114', 1), ('X.', 6), ('CHAOTONG', 2), ('TONGCHUAN', 3), ('115-124', 1), ('XI.', 2), ('TONGCHUAN,', 2), ('UPON', 2), ('INFANTICIDE', 1), ('125-134', 1), ('XII.', 2), ('YUNNAN', 20), ('135-147', 1), ('XIII.', 2), ('AT', 6), ('148-157', 1), ('XIV.', 2), ('GOLD,', 2), ('BANKS,', 2), ('TELEGRAPHS', 2), ('158-170', 1), ('XV.', 2), ('FRENCH', 2), ('MISSION', 2), ('ARSENAL', 2), ('171-182', 1), ('XVI.', 2), ('TALIFU', 4), ('183-201', 1), ('XVII.', 2), ('TALI--PRISONS--POISONING--PLAGUES', 2), ('MISSIONS', 1), ('202-217', 1), ('XVIII.', 2), ('TALI,', 2), ('CHARACTER', 2), ('CANTONESE,', 2), ('EMIGRANTS,', 2), ('CRETINS,', 2), ('WIFE-BEATING', 2), ('218-232', 1), ('XIX.', 2), ('MEKONG', 3), ('SALWEEN', 3), ('RIVERS--HOW', 2), ('TRAVEL', 2), ('233-243', 1), ('XX.', 2), ('TENGYUEH--THE', 2), ('CELEBRATED', 2), ('WUNTHO', 2), ('SAWBWA--SHAN', 2), ('SOLDIERS', 3), ('244-259', 1), ('XXI.', 2), ('SHAN', 2), ('TOWN', 2), ('SANTA,', 2), ('MANYUEN,', 2), ('SCENE', 4), ('CONSUL', 2), ("MARGARY'S", 2), ('MURDER', 1), ('260-269', 1), ('XXII.', 2), ('AS', 3), ('FIGHTING', 2), ('POWER--THE', 2), ('KACHINS--AND', 2), ('LAST', 2), ('STAGE', 2), ('BHAMO', 1), ('270-281', 1), ('XXIII.', 2), ('BHAMO,', 2), ('MANDALAY,', 2), ('RANGOON,', 2), ('CALCUTTA', 1), ('282-291', 1), ('ILLUSTRATIONS.', 1), ('_Mostly', 1), ('from', 508), ('Photographs', 1), ('by_', 1), ('MR.', 1), ('C.', 9), ('JENSEN', 1), ('_of', 1), ('Imperial', 19), ('Chinese', 377), ('Telegraphs._', 1), ('_Frontispiece._', 1), ("AUTHOR'S", 4), ('PASSPORT', 1), ('_page_', 1), ('8', 4), ('BALCONY', 2), ('14', 4), ('RIVER', 9), ('TUNG-LO-HSIA', 1), ('34', 2), ('MEMORIAL', 4), ('ARCHWAY', 2), ('FORT', 2), ('FU-TO-KUAN', 1), ('CHUNGKING,', 2), ('OPPOSITE', 2), ('BANK', 2), ('38', 1), ('TEMPLE', 6), ('THEATRE', 2), ('44', 1), ('MAIN', 2), ('ROAD', 4), ('52', 3), ('CULTIVATION', 2), ('TERRACES', 1), ('58', 2), ('SZECHUEN', 2), ('OPIUM-SMOKING', 1), ('72', 2), ('84', 3), ('LAOWATAN', 1), ('OPIUM-SMOKER', 2), ('ROMANCE', 1), ('93', 1), ('PAGODA', 4), ('WAYSIDE,', 2), ('118', 1), ('BIG', 2), ('EAST', 2), ('GATE', 4), ('146', 3), ('VIEW', 4), ('156', 2), ('WALL', 2), ('168', 3), ('CITY,', 2), ('250', 5), ('FEET', 2), ('HIGH', 1), ('174', 2), ('VICEROY', 2), ('TWO', 2), ('PROVINCES', 2), ('180', 1), ('NAME', 1), ('182', 1), ('GIANT', 2), ('184', 2), ('"EAGLE', 2), ('NEST', 2), ('BARRIER,"', 2), ('192', 5), ('SNOW-CLAD', 2), ('MOUNTAINS', 2), ('BEHIND', 2), ('204', 3), ('NEAR', 2), ('220', 1), ('DESCENT', 2), ('232', 2), ('INSIDE', 2), ('SUSPENSION', 4), ('BRIDGE', 3), ('236', 1), ('240', 2), ('SHWELI', 2), ('242', 3), ('SUBURB', 2), ('BEYOND', 2), ('SOUTH', 2), ('TENGYUEH', 1), ('MAP', 2), ('292', 1), ('ROUGH', 2), ('SKETCH-MAP', 2), ('_at', 1), ('end._', 1), ('CHINA.', 4), ('HANKOW.', 1), ('In', 138), ('first', 79), ('week', 4), ('February,', 1), ('1894,', 5), ('returned', 16), ('Shanghai', 19), ('Japan.', 2), ('It', 158), ('was', 1062), ('my', 385), ('intention', 3), ('go', 39), ('up', 100), ('Yangtse', 21), ('River', 17), ('far', 48), ('Chungking,', 22), ('then,', 13), ('dressed', 28), ('Chinese,', 66), ('cross', 14), ('quietly', 1), ('over', 99), ('Western', 56), ('Shan', 24), ('States,', 7), ('Kachin', 12), ('Hills', 2), ('frontier', 19), ('Burma.', 18), ('The', 460), ('ensuing', 2), ('narrative', 2), ('will', 103), ('tell', 13), ('how', 30), ('easily', 11), ('pleasantly', 3), ('journey,', 12), ('which', 362), ('few', 68), ('years', 64), ('ago', 14), ('would', 154), ('regarded', 8), ('formidable', 5), ('undertaking,', 1), ('can', 126), ('now', 74), ('be', 406), ('done.', 4), ('journey', 48), ('was,', 10), ('course,', 24), ('sense', 7), ('one', 274), ('exploration;', 1), ('consisted', 4), ('simply', 5), ('voyage', 5), ('1500', 7), ('miles', 62), ('River,', 7), ('followed', 5), ('quiet,', 1), ('though', 28), ('extended,', 1), ('excursion', 1), ('another', 40), ('along', 42), ('great', 63), ('overland', 3), ('highway', 3), ('into', 184), ('Burma,', 21), ('taken', 28), ('who', 325), ('spoke', 18), ('had', 446), ('interpreter', 4), ('companion,', 2), ('unarmed,', 4), ('but', 321), ('trusted', 4), ('implicitly', 1), ('good', 63), ('faith', 4), ('Chinese.', 30), ('Anyone', 1), ('world', 22), ('way', 73), ('did,', 8), 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('gently', 4), ('strangers', 3), ('afar."', 1), ('left', 61), ('Sunday,', 2), ('February', 3), ('11th,', 1), ('Jardine', 2), ("Matheson's", 1), ('steamer', 12), ('_Taiwo_.', 1), ('One', 32), ('kind', 22), ('friend,', 3), ('merchant', 4), ('captain', 5), ('seen', 46), ('life', 25), ('every', 90), ('important', 32), ('seaport', 1), ('world,', 8), ('came', 65), ('down,', 4), ('past', 20), ('midnight,', 2), ('bid', 1), ('me', 281), ('farewell.', 2), ('We', 92), ('shook', 2), ('hands', 17), ('wharf,', 1), ('last', 37), ('time.', 8), ('Already', 2), ('promised', 5), ('vacancy', 3), ("Matheson's.", 1), ('Some', 8), ('time', 89), ('after', 76), ('departure,', 2), ('when', 151), ('appointed', 4), ('officers', 8), ('ill-fated', 1), ('_Kowshing_,', 1), ('unarmed', 1), ('transport', 3), ('before', 86), ('declaration', 2), ('war', 3), ('destroyed', 5), ('Japanese', 11), ('gunboat,', 1), ('among', 60), ('slain--struck,', 1), ('believe,', 3), ('bullet', 1), ('struggling', 1), ('water.', 6), ('travelled', 8), ('warm', 5), ('winter', 7), ('clothing,', 1), ('pigtail', 5), ('attached', 9), ('inside', 6), ('hat.', 1), ('could', 138), ('more', 174), ('comfortable.', 5), ('small', 47), ('cabin', 4), ('myself.', 4), ('course', 16), ('own', 43), ('bedding,', 1), ('paying', 7), ('Mexican', 5), ('dollar', 2), ('day', 67), ('steward,', 1), ('"foreign', 4), ('chow,"', 1), ('brought', 33), ('saloon.', 1), ('traveller', 32), ('cares', 3), ('way,', 19), ('put', 23), ('his', 538), ('pride', 5), ('pocket', 2), ('down', 89), ('back,', 6), ('need', 19), ('pay', 24), ('only', 131), ('one-fourth', 1), ('what', 41), ('him', 154), ('dress.', 2), ('But', 75), ('found,', 2), ('unwittingly', 2), ('travelling', 11), ('false', 3), ('pretences.', 1), ('When', 40), ('smart', 7), ('chief', 41), ('officer', 13), ('fare', 4), ('charged', 4), ('me,', 58), ('thought,', 5), ('too', 20), ('little.', 3), ('expressed', 5), ('surprise,', 1), ('said', 37), ('thought', 14), ('seven', 21), ('dollars.', 2), ('"So', 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('Hankow,', 10), ('say,', 11), ('mart', 1), ('eight', 19), ('centre', 17), ('earth.', 2), ('distributing', 9), ('valley,', 11), ('capital', 20), ('city', 103), ('China.', 71), ('trade', 17), ('tea,', 10), ('its', 180), ('staple', 3), ('export,', 2), ('declining', 1), ('rapidly,', 1), ('particularly', 4), ('1886.', 2), ('Indian', 9), ('opium', 45), ('goes', 5), ('higher', 14), ('than', 204), ('point;', 2), ('importation', 2), ('insignificant,', 2), ('amounting', 3), ('738', 1), ('piculs', 1), ('(44', 1), ('tons)', 1), ('per', 29), ('annum.', 4), ('bank', 28), ('Yangtse,', 10), ('separated', 7), ('width', 5), ('Han', 3), ('Hanyang,', 2), ('Wuchang;', 1), ('these', 46), ('three', 121), ('divisions', 1), ('really', 8), ('form', 12), ('large', 64), ('city,', 38), ('inhabitants', 3), ('entire', 8), ('population', 15), ('colony', 6), ('Victoria.', 3), ('Wuchang', 3), ('two', 176), ('Hunan', 2), ('Hupeh;', 1), ('here', 80), ('Viceroy,', 8), ('Chang', 7), ('Chi', 3), ('Tung,', 2), ('resides', 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('limitation', 3), ('damages.', 1), ('disclaimer', 2), ('violates', 1), ('maximum', 1), ('law.', 1), ('invalidity', 1), ('unenforceability', 1), ('void', 1), ('provisions.', 1), ('1.F.6.', 1), ('INDEMNITY', 1), ('indemnify', 1), ('owner,', 1), ('employee', 1), ('production,', 1), ('promotion', 1), ('harmless', 1), ('liability,', 1), ('fees,', 1), ('arise', 1), ('directly', 1), ('indirectly', 1), ('occur:', 1), ('(a)', 1), ('(b)', 1), ('alteration,', 1), ('modification,', 1), ('additions', 1), ('deletions', 1), ('(c)', 1), ('Defect', 1), ('cause.', 1), ('Information', 4), ('readable', 2), ('widest', 2), ('computers', 1), ('obsolete,', 1), ('middle-aged', 1), ('computers.', 1), ('Volunteers', 1), ('financial', 1), ("Gutenberg-tm's", 1), ('goals', 1), ('ensuring', 1), ('come.', 1), ('2001,', 1), ('created', 2), ('permanent', 1), ('help,', 1), ('Sections', 1), ('page', 2), ('http://www.pglaf.org.', 1), ('non', 1), ('501(c)(3)', 2), ('educational', 1), ('corporation', 1), ('organized', 1), ('Mississippi', 1), ('granted', 1), ('Revenue', 1), ("Foundation's", 3), ('EIN', 1), ('federal', 2), ('identification', 1), ('64-6221541.', 1), ('http://pglaf.org/fundraising.', 1), ('Contributions', 1), ('deductible', 1), ('U.S.', 3), ("state's", 1), ('laws.', 1), ('4557', 1), ('Melan', 1), ('Fairbanks,', 1), ('AK,', 1), ('99712.,', 1), ('locations.', 1), ('809', 1), ('Lake', 1), ('UT', 1), ('84116,', 1), ('(801)', 1), ('596-1887,', 1), ('email', 2), ('[email protected].', 1), ('Email', 1), ('contact', 3), ('http://pglaf.org', 2), ('information:', 1), ('Gregory', 1), ('Newby', 1), ('Executive', 1), ('Director', 1), ('[email protected]', 1), ('Donations', 2), ('accessible', 1), ('outdated', 1), ('($1', 1), ('$5,000)', 1), ('IRS.', 1), ('regulating', 1), ('charities', 1), ('charitable', 1), ('Compliance', 1), ('paperwork', 1), ('requirements.', 1), ('solicit', 2), ('locations', 1), ('confirmation', 1), ('compliance.', 1), ('SEND', 1), ('DONATIONS', 1), ('determine', 1), ('solicitation', 1), ('requirements,', 1), ('prohibition', 1), ('accepting', 1), ('unsolicited', 1), ('donors', 1), ('donate.', 1), ('International', 1), ('staff.', 1), ('Please', 1), ('Web', 3), ('donation', 1), ('addresses.', 1), ('checks,', 1), ('donations.', 1), ('donate,', 1), ('visit:', 1), ('http://pglaf.org/donate', 1), ('5.', 1), ('About', 1), ('Hart', 1), ('originator', 1), ('library', 1), ('anyone.', 1), ('eBooks', 3), ('network', 1), ('volunteer', 1), ('support.', 1), ('editions,', 1), ('Public', 1), ('Domain', 1), ('included.', 1), ('edition.', 1), ('PG', 1), ('facility:', 1), ('http://www.gutenberg.org', 1), ('Gutenberg-tm,', 1), ('subscribe', 1), ('newsletter', 1)])

sorted_dictionary = sorted(word_dictionary.items(), key=lambda x: x[1], reverse=True)

sorted_dictionary

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 ('of', 3507),
 ('and', 2450),
 ('in', 2165),
 ('to', 2151),
 ('a', 1991),
 ('is', 1113),
 ('was', 1062),
 ('with', 944),
 ('I', 876),
 ('that', 702),
 ('by', 632),
 ('for', 620),
 ('are', 570),
 ('as', 565),
 ('were', 548),
 ('his', 538),
 ('from', 508),
 ('he', 502),
 ('on', 502),
 ('The', 460),
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 ('at', 425),
 ('be', 406),
 ('it', 389),
 ('my', 385),
 ('Chinese', 377),
 ('which', 362),
 ('their', 360),
 ('not', 351),
 ('an', 335),
 ('who', 325),
 ('but', 321),
 ('we', 314),
 ('they', 311),
 ('all', 287),
 ('this', 283),
 ('me', 281),
 ('one', 274),
 ('have', 273),
 ('or', 266),
 ('been', 241),
 ('there', 238),
 ('has', 228),
 ('|', 218),
 ('than', 204),
 ('no', 203),
 ('into', 184),
 ('its', 180),
 ('two', 176),
 ('more', 174),
 ('China', 171),
 ('you', 163),
 ('It', 158),
 ('would', 154),
 ('him', 154),
 ('He', 153),
 ('when', 151),
 ('In', 138),
 ('could', 138),
 ('any', 138),
 ('where', 137),
 ('so', 135),
 ('only', 131),
 ('her', 129),
 ('men', 128),
 ('can', 126),
 ('under', 122),
 ('three', 121),
 ('most', 115),
 ('THE', 110),
 ('them', 110),
 ('our', 108),
 ('They', 108),
 ('if', 106),
 ('other', 105),
 ('China,', 104),
 ('being', 104),
 ('will', 103),
 ('city', 103),
 ('out', 102),
 ('A', 101),
 ('up', 100),
 ('over', 99),
 ('There', 98),
 ('little', 96),
 ('some', 93),
 ('We', 92),
 ('many', 91),
 ('every', 90),
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 ('down', 89),
 ('and,', 89),
 ('Yunnan', 89),
 ('through', 87),
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 ('cash', 82),
 ('did', 80),
 ('here', 80),
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 ('now', 74),
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 ('long', 73),
 ('like', 73),
 ('do', 72),
 ('China.', 71),
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 ('Mr.', 68),
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 ('man', 67),
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 ('upon', 66),
 ('may', 65),
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 ('Page', 65),
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 ('great', 63),
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 ('well', 62),
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 ('far', 48),
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 ('days', 46),
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 ('four', 45),
 ('me.', 45),
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 ('Dr.', 43),
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 ('along', 42),
 ('much', 42),
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 ('foreign', 42),
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 ('another', 40),
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 ('those', 40),
 ('come', 40),
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 ('about', 40),
 ('temple', 40),
 ('go', 39),
 ('your', 39),
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 ('sent', 39),
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 ('called', 38),
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 ('said', 37),
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 ('hundred', 37),
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 ('No', 35),
 ('AND', 34),
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 ('old', 33),
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 ('back', 32),
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 ('traveller', 32),
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 ('having', 32),
 ('speak', 32),
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 ('boat', 32),
 ('If', 32),
 ('As', 32),
 ('bamboo', 32),
 ('within', 32),
 ('off', 32),
 ('best', 32),
 ('li', 32),
 ('telegraph', 32),
 ('[Illustration:', 31),
 ('City', 31),
 ('morning', 31),
 ('early', 31),
 ('To', 31),
 ('might', 31),
 ('pretty', 31),
 ('coolies', 31),
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 ('Burma', 30),
 ('how', 30),
 ('Chinese.', 30),
 ('cannot', 30),
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 ('gold', 28),
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 ('Tali.', 21),
 ('*', 20),
 ('YUNNAN', 20),
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 ('capital', 20),
 ('numbers', 20),
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 ('them.', 20),
 ('son', 20),
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 ('armed', 20),
 ('wall', 20),
 ('of,', 20),
 ('Gutenberg', 19),
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 ('took', 19),
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 ('district', 19),
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 ('him,', 19),
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 ('ON', 16),
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 ('equal', 15),
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 ('or,', 13),
 ('laoban', 13),
 ('1000', 13),
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 ('miles,', 13),
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 ('covered', 13),
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 ('cent.', 13),
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 ('"It', 10),
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 ('6', 10),
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 ('rose', 10),
 ('H.', 10),
 ('Consul', 10),
 ('thousands', 10),
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 ('dress', 10),
 ('powerful', 10),
 ('associated', 10),
 ('coolies,', 10),
 ('inns', 10),
 ('morning,', 10),
 ('ate', 10),
 ('party', 10),
 ('Chaotong.', 10),
 ('fee', 10),
 ('S.', 10),
 ('dying', 10),
 ('personal', 10),
 ('stages', 10),
 ('seated', 10),
 ('stage', 10),
 ('General', 10),
 ('villages', 10),
 ('gods', 10),
 ('spot', 10),
 ('images', 10),
 ('stranger', 10),
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 ('including', 10),
 ('150', 10),
 ('Captain', 10),
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 ('Laotseng', 10),
 ('paragraph', 10),
 ('C.', 9),
 ('RIVER', 9),
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 ('Wanhsien', 9),
 ('deeply', 9),
 ('junks', 9),
 ('working', 9),
 ('Australia,', 9),
 ('women,', 9),
 ...]

def count_words(textblock):
    wordlist = textblock.split()
    wordfreq = []
    for word in wordlist:
        wordfreq.append(wordlist.count(word))
    word_dictionary = dict(zip(wordlist, wordfreq))
    sorted_dictionary = sorted(word_dictionary.items(), key=lambda x: x[1], reverse=True)
    
    return (sorted_dictionary)

count_words(content)

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 ('of', 3507),
 ('and', 2450),
 ('in', 2165),
 ('to', 2151),
 ('a', 1991),
 ('is', 1113),
 ('was', 1062),
 ('with', 944),
 ('I', 876),
 ('that', 702),
 ('by', 632),
 ('for', 620),
 ('are', 570),
 ('as', 565),
 ('were', 548),
 ('his', 538),
 ('from', 508),
 ('he', 502),
 ('on', 502),
 ('The', 460),
 ('had', 446),
 ('at', 425),
 ('be', 406),
 ('it', 389),
 ('my', 385),
 ('Chinese', 377),
 ('which', 362),
 ('their', 360),
 ('not', 351),
 ('an', 335),
 ('who', 325),
 ('but', 321),
 ('we', 314),
 ('they', 311),
 ('all', 287),
 ('this', 283),
 ('me', 281),
 ('one', 274),
 ('have', 273),
 ('or', 266),
 ('been', 241),
 ('there', 238),
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 ('|', 218),
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 ('no', 203),
 ('into', 184),
 ('its', 180),
 ('two', 176),
 ('more', 174),
 ('China', 171),
 ('you', 163),
 ('It', 158),
 ('would', 154),
 ('him', 154),
 ('He', 153),
 ('when', 151),
 ('In', 138),
 ('could', 138),
 ('any', 138),
 ('where', 137),
 ('so', 135),
 ('only', 131),
 ('her', 129),
 ('men', 128),
 ('can', 126),
 ('under', 122),
 ('three', 121),
 ('most', 115),
 ('THE', 110),
 ('them', 110),
 ('our', 108),
 ('They', 108),
 ('if', 106),
 ('other', 105),
 ('China,', 104),
 ('being', 104),
 ('will', 103),
 ('city', 103),
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 ('A', 101),
 ('up', 100),
 ('over', 99),
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 ('some', 93),
 ('We', 92),
 ('many', 91),
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 ('through', 87),
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 ('China.', 71),
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 ('she', 58),
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 ('whom', 52),
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 ('Rev.', 51),
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 ('CHAPTER', 46),
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 ('days', 46),
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 ('me.', 45),
 ('round', 45),
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 ('Dr.', 43),
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 ('much', 42),
 ('ever', 42),
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 ('sent', 39),
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 ('No', 35),
 ('AND', 34),
 ('ten', 34),
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 ('take', 34),
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 ('li', 32),
 ('telegraph', 32),
 ('[Illustration:', 31),
 ('City', 31),
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 ('name', 22),
 ('opium,', 22),
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 ('day,', 22),
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 ('cost', 21),
 ('Yangtse', 21),
 ('Burma,', 21),
 ('look', 21),
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 ('return', 21),
 ('river.', 21),
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 ('G.', 10),
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 ('working', 9),
 ('Australia,', 9),
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count_words(content.lower())

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 ('in', 2336),
 ('to', 2210),
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 ('is', 1114),
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'Project Gutenbergs An Australian in China by George Ernest Morrison\n\nThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with\nalmost no restrictions whatsoever  You may copy it give it away or\nreuse it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included\nwith this eBook or online at wwwgutenbergorg\n\n\nTitle An Australian in China\n       Being the Narrative of a Quiet Journey Across China to Burma\n\nAuthor George Ernest Morrison\n\nRelease Date September 4 2006 EBook 19172\n\nLanguage English\n\nCharacter set encoding ASCII\n\n START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA \n\n\n\n\nProduced by Thierry Alberto and the Online Distributed\nProofreading Team at httpwwwpgdpnet\n\n\n\n\n\n                                   \n    \n     Transcribers Note                                        \n                                                                \n     Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in        \n     this text For a complete list please see the bottom of   \n     this document                                             \n                                                                \n     Macrons are shown as o and u                         \n                                                                \n    \n\n                                   \n\nIllustration THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA\n\n\nAN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA\n\nBEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA\n\nBY GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON MD EDIN FRGS\n\n\n_THIRD EDITION_\n\nLONDON HORACE COX WINDSOR HOUSE BREAMS BUILDINGS EC\n\nMDCCCCII\n\n\nTO\n\nJOHN CHIENE MD\n\nFRCSE FRSE ETC\n\nPROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH\n\nWHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION\n\nI GRATEFULLY\n\nINSCRIBE THIS VOLUME\n\n\n\n\nCONTENTS\n\n\n\n  CHAPTER I                                              PAGES\n  INTRODUCTORYMAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY\n  OF HANKOW                                                111\n\n  CHAPTER II\n  FROM HANKOW TO WANHSIEN WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF\n  CHINESE WOMEN AND THE RAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE             1223\n\n  CHAPTER III\n  THE CITY OF WANHSIEN AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN\n  TO CHUNGKING                                            2434\n\n  CHAPTER IV\n  THE CITY OF CHUNGKINGTHE CHINESE CUSTOMSTHE\n  FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS AND A FEW WORDS ON\n  THE OPIUM FALLACY                                       3549\n\n  CHAPTER V\n  THE JOURNEY FROM CHUNGKING TO SUIFUCHINESE INNS       5062\n\n  CHAPTER VI\n  THE CITY OF SUIFUTHE CHINA INLAND MISSION WITH\n  SOME GENERAL REMARKS ABOUT MISSIONARIES IN CHINA        6375\n\n  CHAPTER VII\n  SUIFU TO CHAOTONG WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE\n  PROVINCE OF YUNNANCHINESE PORTERS POSTAL\n  ARRANGEMENTS AND BANKS                                 7696\n\n  CHAPTER VIII\n  THE CITY OF CHAOTONG WITH SOME REMARKS ON ITS\n  POVERTY INFANTICIDE SELLING FEMALE CHILDREN\n  INTO SLAVERY TORTURES AND THE CHINESE INSENSIBILITY\n  TO PAIN                                                97106\n\n  CHAPTER IX\n  MAINLY ABOUT CHINESE DOCTORS                          107114\n\n  CHAPTER X\n  THE JOURNEY FROM CHAOTONG TO TONGCHUAN                115124\n\n  CHAPTER XI\n  THE CITY OF TONGCHUAN WITH SOME REMARKS UPON\n  INFANTICIDE                                           125134\n\n  CHAPTER XII\n  TONGCHUAN TO YUNNAN CITY                              135147\n\n  CHAPTER XIII\n  AT YUNNAN CITY                                        148157\n\n  CHAPTER XIV\n  GOLD BANKS AND TELEGRAPHS IN YUNNAN                 158170\n\n  CHAPTER XV\n  THE FRENCH MISSION AND THE ARSENAL IN YUNNAN CITY     171182\n\n  CHAPTER XVI\n  THE JOURNEY FROM YUNNAN CITY TO TALIFU                183201\n\n  CHAPTER XVII\n  THE CITY OF TALIPRISONSPOISONINGPLAGUES AND\n  MISSIONS                                              202217\n\n  CHAPTER XVIII\n  THE JOURNEY FROM TALI WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE\n  CHARACTER OF THE CANTONESE CHINESE EMIGRANTS\n  CRETINS AND WIFEBEATING IN CHINA                    218232\n\n  CHAPTER XIX\n  THE MEKONG AND SALWEEN RIVERSHOW TO TRAVEL\n  IN CHINA                                              233243\n\n  CHAPTER XX\n  THE CITY OF TENGYUEHTHE CELEBRATED WUNTHO\n  SAWBWASHAN SOLDIERS                                 244259\n\n  CHAPTER XXI\n  THE SHAN TOWN OF SANTA AND MANYUEN THE SCENE\n  OF CONSUL MARGARYS MURDER                            260269\n\n  CHAPTER XXII\n  CHINA AS A FIGHTING POWERTHE KACHINSAND THE\n  LAST STAGE INTO BHAMO                                 270281\n\n  CHAPTER XXIII\n  BHAMO MANDALAY RANGOON AND CALCUTTA                282291\n\n\n\n\nILLUSTRATIONS\n\n_Mostly from Photographs by_ MR C JENSEN _of the Imperial Chinese\nTelegraphs_\n\n\n  THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA                    _Frontispiece_\n\n  THE AUTHORS CHINESE PASSPORT                        _page_ 8\n\n  ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA                              14\n\n  THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNGLOHSIA                          34\n\n  MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FUTOKUAN                 34\n\n  CHUNGKING FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE YANGTSE           38\n\n  A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING                              44\n\n  ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU                                  52\n\n  CULTIVATION IN TERRACES                                    58\n\n  SCENE IN SZECHUEN                                          58\n\n  OPIUMSMOKING                                              72\n\n  A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN                                       84\n\n  LAOWATAN                                                   84\n\n  THE OPIUMSMOKER OF ROMANCE                                93\n\n  PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE WESTERN CHINA                      118\n\n  THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY                          146\n\n  VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY                                       156\n\n  SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY                       168\n\n  THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY 250 FEET HIGH                  174\n\n  THE VICEROY OF TWO PROVINCES                              180\n\n  THE AUTHORS CHINESE NAME                                 182\n\n  THE GIANT OF YUNNAN                                       184\n\n  THE EAGLE NEST BARRIER ON THE ROAD TO TALIFU           192\n\n  SNOWCLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU                         204\n\n  MEMORIAL IN A TEMPLE NEAR TALIFU                          220\n\n  THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG                           232\n\n  INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE                        236\n\n  THE RIVER SALWEEN                                         240\n\n  THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE                242\n\n  THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH              250\n\n  CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING                                  292\n\n  ROUGH SKETCHMAP OF CHINA AND BURMA                  _at end_\n\n\n\n\nAN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER I\n\nINTRODUCTORYMAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW\n\n\nIn the first week of February 1894 I returned to Shanghai from Japan\nIt was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking and\nthen dressed as a Chinese to cross quietly over Western China the\nChinese Shan States and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma The\nensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey\nwhich a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable\nundertaking can now be done\n\nThe journey was of course in no sense one of exploration it consisted\nsimply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River followed by a\nquiet though extended excursion of another 1500 miles along the great\noverland highway into Burma taken by one who spoke no Chinese who had\nno interpreter or companion who was unarmed but who trusted implicitly\nin the good faith of the Chinese Anyone in the world can cross over to\nBurma in the way I did provided he be willing to exercise for a certain\nnumber of weeks or months some endurancefor he will have to travel\nmany miles on foot over a mountainous countryand much forbearance\n\nI went to China possessed with the strong racial antipathy to the\nChinese common to my countrymen but that feeling has long since given\nway to one of lively sympathy and gratitude and I shall always look\nback with pleasure to this journey during which I experienced while\ntraversing provinces as wide as European kingdoms uniform kindness and\nhospitality and the most charming courtesy In my case at least the\nChinese did not forget their precept deal gently with strangers from\nafar\n\nI left Shanghai on Sunday February 11th by the Jardine Mathesons\nsteamer _Taiwo_ One kind friend a merchant captain who had seen life\nin every important seaport in the world came down though it was past\nmidnight to bid me farewell We shook hands on the wharf and for the\nlast time Already he had been promised the first vacancy in Jardine\nMathesons Some time after my departure when I was in Western China\nhe was appointed one of the officers of the illfated _Kowshing_ and\nwhen this unarmed transport before the declaration of war was destroyed\nby a Japanese gunboat he was among the slainstruck I believe by a\nJapanese bullet while struggling for life in the water\n\nI travelled as a Chinese dressed in warm Chinese winter clothing with\na pigtail attached to the inside of my hat I could not have been more\ncomfortable I had a small cabin to myself I had of course my own\nbedding and by paying a Mexican dollar a day to the Chinese steward\nforeign chow was brought me from the saloon The traveller who cares\nto travel in this way to put his pride in his pocket and a pigtail down\nhis back need pay only onefourth of what it would cost him to travel\nas a European in European dress\n\nBut I was I found unwittingly travelling under false pretences When\nthe smart chief officer came for my fare he charged me I thought too\nlittle I expressed my surprise and said that I thought the fare was\nseven dollars So it is he replied but we only charge missionaries\nfive dollars and I knew you were a missionary even before they told\nme How different was his acuteness from that of the Chinese compradore\nwho received me on the China Merchants steamer _Hsin Chi_ in which I\nonce made a voyage from Shanghai to Tientsin also in Chinese dress The\nconversation was short sharp and emphatic The compradore looked at me\nsearchingly What pidgin belong you he askedmeaning what is your\nbusiness Humbly I answered My belong Jesus Christ pidgin that is I\nam a missionary to which he instantly and with some scorn replied No\ndam fear\n\nWe called at the river ports and reached Hankow on the 14th Hankow the\nChinese say is the mart of eight provinces and the centre of the earth\nIt is the chief distributing centre of the Yangtse valley the capital\ncity of the centre of China The trade in tea its staple export is\ndeclining rapidly particularly since 1886 Indian opium goes no higher\nup the river than this point its importation into Hankow is now\ninsignificant amounting to only 738 piculs 44 tons per annum Hankow\nis on the left bank of the Yangtse separated only by the width of the\nHan river from Hanyang and by the width of the Yangtse from Wuchang\nthese three divisions really form one large city with more inhabitants\nthan the entire population of the colony of Victoria\n\nWuchang is the capital city of the two provinces of Hunan and Hupeh it\nis here that the Viceroy Chang Chi Tung resides in his official yamen\nand dispenses injustice from a building almost as handsome as the\nAmerican missionhouses which overlook it Chang Chi Tung is the most\nantiforeign of all the Viceroys of China yet no Viceroy in the Empire\nhas ever had so many foreigners in his employ as he Within the four\nseas he says all men are brothers yet the two provinces he rules\nover are closed against foreigners and the missionaries are compelled\nto remain under the shelter of the foreign Concession in Hankow With a\npublic spirit unusual among Chinese Viceroys he has devoted the immense\nrevenues of his office to the modern development of the resources of his\nvicekingdom He has erected a gigantic cottonmill at Wuchang with\nthirtyfive thousand spindles covering six acres and lit with the\nelectric light and with a reservoir of three acres and a half He has\nbuilt a large mint At Hanyang he has erected magnificent ironworks and\nblast furnaces which cover many acres and are provided with all the\nlatest machinery He has iron and coal mines with a railway seventeen\nmiles long from the mines to the river and specially constructed\nriversteamers and special hoisting machinery at the riverbanks Money\nhe has poured out like water he is probably the only important official\nin China who will leave office a poor man\n\nActing as private secretary to the Viceroy is a clever Chinese named Kaw\nHong Beng the author of _Defensio Populi_ that oftenquoted attack\nupon missionary methods which appeared first in _The North China Daily\nNews_ A linguist of unusual ability who publishes in _The Daily News_\ntranslations from Heine in English verse Kaw is gifted with a rare\ncommand over the resources of English He is a Master of Arts of the\nUniversity of Edinburgh Yet strange paradox notwithstanding that he\nhad the privilege of being trained in the most pious and earnest\ncommunity in the United Kingdom under the lights of the United\nPresbyterian Kirk Free Kirk Episcopalian Church and _The_ Kirk not\nto mention a large and varied assortment of Dissenting Churches of more\nor less dubious orthodoxy he is openly hostile to the introduction of\nChristianity into China And nowhere in China is the opposition to the\nintroduction of Christianity more intense than in the Yangtse valley In\nthis intensity many thoughtful missionaries see the greater hope of the\nultimate conversion of this portion of China opposition they say is a\nbetter aid to missionary success than mere apathy\n\nDuring the time I was in China I met large numbers of missionaries of\nall classes in many cities from Peking to Canton and they unanimously\nexpressed satisfaction at the progress they are making in China\nExpressed succinctly their harvest may be described as amounting to a\nfraction more than two Chinamen per missionary per annum If however\nthe paid ordained and unordained native helpers be added to the number\nof missionaries you find that the aggregate body converts ninetenths\nof a Chinaman per worker per annum but the missionaries deprecate their\nwork being judged by statistics There are 1511 Protestant missionaries\nlabouring in the Empire and estimating their results from the\nstatistics of previous years as published in the _Chinese Recorder_ we\nfind that they gathered last year 1893 into the fold 3127 Chinesenot\nall of whom it is feared are genuine Christiansat a cost of _L350000_\na sum equal to the combined incomes of the ten chief London hospitals\n\nHankow itself swarms with missionaries who are unhappily divided into\nso many sects that even a foreigner is bewildered by their number let\nalone the heathen to whom they are accredited Medhurst\n\nDwelling in welldeserved comfort in and around the foreign settlement\nthere are members of the London Missionary Society of the Tract\nSociety of the Local Tract Society of the British and Foreign Bible\nSociety of the National Bible Society of Scotland of the American\nBible Society there are Quaker missionaries Baptist Wesleyan and\nIndependent missionaries of private means there are members of the\nChurch Missionary Society of the American Board of Missions and of the\nAmerican High Church Episcopal Mission there is a Medical Mission in\nconnection with the London Missionary Society there is a flourishing\nFrench Mission under a bishop the _Missions etrangeres de Paris_ a\nMission of Franciscan Fathers most of whom are Italian and a Spanish\nMission of the Order of St Augustine\n\nThe China Inland Mission has its chief central distributing station at\nHankow and here also are the headquarters of a Scandinavian Mission of\na Danish Mission and of an unattached mission most of the members of\nwhich are also Danish Where there are so many missions of so many\ndifferent sects and holding such widely divergent views it is I\nsuppose inevitable that each mission should look with some disfavour\nupon the work done by its neighbours should have some doubts as to the\nexpediency of their methods and some reasonable misgivings as to the\ngenuineness of their conversions\n\nThe Chinese Rice Christians those spurious Christians who become\nconverted in return for being provided with rice are just those who\nprofit by these differences of opinion and who with timely lapses from\ngrace are said to succeed in being converted in turn by all the\nmissions from the Augustins to the Quakers\n\nEvery visitor to Hankow and to all other open ports who is a supporter\nof missionary effort is pleased to find that his preconceived notions\nas to the hardships and discomforts of the open port missionary in China\nare entirely false Comfort and pleasures of life are there as great as\nin any other country Among the most comfortable residences in Hankow\nare the quarters of the missionaries and it is but right that the\nmissionaries should be separated as far as possible from all\ndiscomfortmissionaries who are sacrificing all for China and who are\nprepared to undergo any reasonable hardship to bring enlightenment to\nthis land of darkness\n\nI called at the headquarters of the Spanish mission of Padres Agustinos\nand smoked a cigarette with two of the Padres and exchanged\nreminiscences of Valladolid and Barcelona And I can well conceive\nhaving seen the extreme dirtiness of the mission premises how little\nthe Spaniard has to alter his ways in order to make them conform to the\nmore ancient civilisation of the Chinese\n\nIn Hankow there is a large foreign concession with a handsome embankment\nlined by large buildings There is a rise and fall in the river between\nsummer and winter levels of nearly sixty feet In the summer the river\nlaps the edge of the embankment and may overflow into the concession in\nthe winter broad steps lead down to the edge of the water which even\nwhen shrunk into its bed is still more than half a mile in width Our\nhandsome consulate is at one end of the embankment at the other there\nis a remarkable municipal building which was designed by a former City\nconstable who was I hope more expert with the handcuffs than he was\nwith the pencil\n\nIllustration THE AUTHORS CHINESE PASSPORT\n\nOur interests in Hankow are protected by Mr Pelham Warren the Consul\none of the ablest men in the Service I registered at the Consulate as a\nBritish subject and obtained a Chinese passport in terms of the Treaty\nof Tientsin for the four provinces Hupeh Szechuen Kweichow and\nYunnan available for one year from the date of issue\n\nI had no servant An Englishspeaking boy hearing that I was in need\nof one came to me to recommend his number one flend who he assured\nme spoke English all the same Englishman But when the flend came I\nfound that he spoke English all the same as I spoke Chinese He was not\nabashed but turned away wrath by saying to me through an interpreter\nIt is true that I cannot speak the foreign language but the foreign\ngentleman is so clever that in one month he will speak Chinese\nbeautifully We did not come to terms\n\nAt Hankow I embarked on the China Merchants steamer _Kweili_ the only\ntriplescrew steamer on the River and four days later on February\n21st I landed at Ichang the most inland port on the Yangtse yet\nreached by steam Ichang is an open port it is the scene of the\nantiforeign riot of September 2nd 1891 when the foreign settlement\nwas pillaged and burnt by the mob aided by soldiers of the Chentai\nLohTaJen the head military official in charge at Ichang who gave\nthe outbreak the benefit of his connivance Pleasant zest is given to\nlife here in the anticipation of another outbreak it is the only\nexcitement\n\nFrom Ichang to Chungkinga distance of 412 milesthe river Yangtse in\na great part of its course is a series of rapids which no steamer has\nyet attempted to ascend though it is contended that the difficulties of\nnavigation would not be insuperable to a specially constructed steamer\nof elevated horsepower Some idea of the speed of the current at this\npart of the river may be given by the fact that a junk taking thirty to\nthirtyfive days to do the upward journey hauled most of the way by\ngangs of trackers has been known to do the downriver journey in two\ndays and a half\n\nBelieving that I could thus save some days on the journey I decided to\ngo to Chungking on foot and engaged a coolie to accompany me We were\nto start on the Thursday afternoon but about midnight on Wednesday I\nmet Dr Aldridge of the Customs who easily persuaded me that by taking\nthe risk of going in a small boat a _wupan_ and not in an ordinary\npassenger junk a _kwatze_ I might with luck reach Chungking as soon\nby water as I could reach Wanhsien at half the distance by land The\nDoctor was a man of surprising energy He offered to arrange everything\nfor me and by 6 oclock in the morning he had engaged a boat had\nselected a captain _laoban_ and a picked crew of four young men who\nundertook to land me in Chungking in fifteen days and had given them\nall necessary instructions for my journey All was to be ready for a\nstart the same evening\n\nDuring the course of the morning the written agreement was brought me by\nthe laoban drawn up in Chinese and duly signed of which a Chinese\nclerk made me the following translation into English I transcribe it\nliterally\n\nYang Hsing Chung the laoban hereby contracts to convey Dr M to\nChungking on the following conditions\n\n     1 The passagemoney agreed upon is 28000 cash _L2 16s_\n     which includes all charges\n\n     2 If Chungking is reached in twelve days Dr M will give\n     the master 32500 cash instead if in thirteen days 31000\n     and if in fifteen days 28000\n\n     3 If all goes well and the master does his duty\n     satisfactorily Dr M will give him 30000 cash even if he\n     gets to Chungking in fifteen days\n\n     4 The sum of 14000 cash is to be advanced to the master\n     before starting the remainder to be paid on arrival at\n     Chungking\n\n               Signed     YANG HSING CHUNG\n\n  Dated the 17th day of the 2nd moon\n          K shui 20th year\n\nThe Chinaman who wrote this in English speaks English better than many\nEnglishmen\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER II\n\nFROM ICHANG TO WANHSIEN WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF CHINESE WOMEN AND THE\nRAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE KIANG\n\n\nThe agreement was brought me in the morning all the afternoon I was\nbusy and at 8 pm I embarked from the Customs pontoon The boat was a\nwupan five boards 28 feet long and drawing 8 inches Its sail was\nlike the wing of a butterfly with transverse ribs of light bamboo its\nstern was shaped like a swallows wings at rest An improvised\ncovering of mats amidships was my crib and with spare mats slipt\nduring the day over the boats hood coverings could be made at night\nforard for my three men and aft for the other two It seemed a frail\nlittle craft to face the dangers of the cataracts but it was manned by\nas smart a crew of young Chinese as could be found on the river It was\npitch dark when we paddled into the stream amidst a discharge of\ncrackers As we passed under the _Kweili_ men were there to wish me\n_bon voyage_ and a revolver was emptied into the darkness to propitiate\nthe river god\n\nWe paddled up the bank under the sterns of countless junks past the\nwalled city and then crossing to the other bank we made fast and\nwaited for the morning to begin our journey The lights of the city were\ndown the river all was quiet my men were in good heart and there was\nno doubt whatever that they would make every effort to fulfil their\ncontract\n\nAt daylight we were away again and soon entered the first of the great\ngorges where the river has cleft its way through the mountains\n\nWith a clear and sunny sky the river flowing smoothly and reflecting\ndeeply the lofty and rugged hills which fall steeply to the waters\nedge a light boat and a model crew it was a pleasure to lie at ease\nwrapped in my Chinese pukai and watch the many junks lazily falling down\nthe river the largest of them dwarfed by the colossal dimensions of\nthe surrounding scenery to the size of sampans and the fishing boats\nnoiseless but for the gentle creaking of the sheers and dipnet\nsilently working in the still waters under the bank\n\nAt Pingshanpa there is an outstation of the Imperial Maritime Customs\nin charge of a seafaring man who was once a cockatoo farmer in South\nAustralia and drove the first team of bullocks to the Mount Brown\ndiggings He lives comfortably in a houseboat moored to the bank He is\none of the few Englishmen in China married in the English way as\ndistinct from the Chinese to a Chinese girl His wife is one of the\nprettiest girls that ever came out of Nanking and talks English\ndelightfully with a musical voice that is pleasant to listen to I\nconfess that I am one of those who agree with the missionary writer in\nregarding the smile of a Chinese woman as inexpressibly charming I\nhave seen girls in China who would be considered beautiful in any\ncapital in Europe The attractiveness of the Japanese lady has been the\ntheme of many writers but speaking as an impartial observer who has\nbeen both in Japan and China I have never been able to come to any\nother decision than that in every feature the Chinese woman is superior\nto her Japanese sister She is head and shoulders above the Japanese\nshe is more intellectual or rather she is more capable of\nintellectual development she is incomparably more chaste and modest\nShe is prettier sweeter and more trustworthy than the misshapen\ncackling little dot with black teeth that we are asked to admire as a\nJapanese beauty The traveller in China is early impressed by the\ncontrast between the almost entire freedom from apparent immorality of\nthe Chinese cities especially of Western China and the flaunting\nindecency of the _Yoshiwaras_ of Japan with their teeming seething\nbusy mass of women whose virtue is industry and whose industry is\nvice\n\nThe small feet of the Chinese women though admired by the Chinese and\npoetically referred to by them as threeinch gold lilies are in our\neyes a very unpleasant deformitybut still even with this deformity\nthe walk of the Chinese woman is more comely than the gait of the\nJapanese woman as she shambles ungracefully along with her little bent\nlegs scraping her woodensoled slippers along the pavement with a noise\nthat sets your teeth on edge Girls are like flowers say the Chinese\nlike the willow It is very important that their feet should be bound\nshort so that they can walk beautifully with mincing steps swaying\ngracefully and thus showing to all that they are persons of\nrespectability Apart from the Manchus the dominant race whose women\ndo not bind their feet all chaste Chinese girls have small feet Those\nwho have large feet are either speaking generally ladies of easy\nvirtue or slave girls And of course no Christian girl is allowed to\nhave her feet bound\n\nIllustration ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA\n\nLeaving Pingshanpa with a stiff breeze in our favour we slowly stemmed\nthe current Look at the current side and you would think we were doing\neight knots an hour or more but look at the shore side close to which\nwe kept to escape as far as possible from the current and you saw how\ngradually we felt our way along\n\nAt a double row of mat sheds filled with huge coils of bamboo rope of\nall thicknesses my laoban went ashore to purchase a towline he took\nwith him 1000 cash about two shillings and returned with a coil 100\nyards in length and 600 cash of change The rope he brought was made of\nplaited bamboo was as thick as the middle finger and as tough as\nwhalebone\n\nThe country was more open and terraced everywhere into gardens Our\nprogress was most satisfactory When night came we drew into the bank\nand I coiled up in my crib and made myself comfortable Space was\ncramped and I had barely room to stretch my legs My cabin was 5 feet 6\ninches square and 4 feet high open behind but with two little doors in\nfront out of which I could just manage to squeeze myself sideways round\nthe mast Coir matting was next the floor boards then a thick Chinese\nquilt a _pukai_ then a Scotch plaid made in Geelong My pillow was\nChinese and the hardest part of the bed my portmanteau was beside me\nand served as a desk a Chinese candle more wick than wax stuck into a\nturnip gave me light\n\nThis our first days journey brought us to within sound of the worst\nrapid on the river the Hsintan and the roar of the cataract hummed in\nour ears all night\n\nEarly in the morning we were at the foot of the rapid under the bank on\nthe opposite side of the river from the town of Hsintan It was an\nexciting scene A swirling torrent with a roar like thunder was frothing\ndown the cataract Above barriers of rocks athwart the stream stretched\nlike a weir across the river damming the deep still water behind it\nThe shore was strewn with boulders Groups of trackers were on the bank\nsquatting on the rocks to see the foreign devil and his cockleshell\nOther Chinese were standing where the sidestream is split by the\nboulders into narrow races catching fish with great dexterity dipping\nthem out of the water with scoopnets\n\nWe rested in some smooth water under shelter and put out our towline\nthree of my boys jumped ashore and laid hold of it another with his\nbamboo boathook stood on the bow the laoban was at the tiller and I\nwas cooped up useless in the well under the awning The men started\nhauling as we pushed out into the sea of waters The boat quivered the\nwater leapt at the bow as if it would engulf us our three men were\nobviously too few The boat danced in the rapid My men on board\nshrieked excitedly that the towrope was foulingit had caught in a\nrockbut their voices could not be heard our trackers were brought to\nwith a jerk the hindmost saw the foul and ran back to free it but he\nwas too late for the boat had come beam on to the current Our captain\nfrantically waved to let go and the next moment we were tossed bodily\ninto the cataract The boat heeled gunwale under and suddenly but the\nbowman kept his feet like a Blondin dropped the boathook and jumped\nto unlash the halyard a wave buried the boat nose under and swamped me\nin my kennel my heart stopped beating and scared out of my wits I\nbegan to strip off my sodden clothes but before I had half done the\nsail had been set both men had miraculously fended the boat from a\nrock which by a moments hesitation would have smashed us in bits or\nburied us in the boiling trough formed by the eddy below it and with\nanother desperate effort we had slid from danger into smooth water\nThen my men laughed heartily How it was done I do not know but I felt\nkeen admiration for the calm dexterity with which it had been done\n\nWe baled the water out of the boat paid out a second towropethis one\nfrom the bow to keep the stern under control the other being made fast\nto the mast and took on board a licensed pilot Extra trackers hired\nfor a few cash laid hold of both towlines and bodilythe water\nswelling and foaming under our bowsthe boat was hauled against the\ntorrent and up the ledge of water that stretches across the river We\nwere now in smooth water at the entrance to the Mi Tsang Gorge Two\nstupendous walls of rock almost perpendicular as bold and rugged as\nthe Mediterranean side of the Rock of Gibraltar seem folded one behind\nthe other across the river Savage cliffs are these where not a tree\nand scarcely a blade of grass can grow and where the stream which is\nrather heard than seen seems to be fretting in vain efforts to escape\nfrom its dark and gloomy prison In the gorge itself the current was\nrestrained and boats could cross from bank to bank without difficulty\nIt was an eerie feeling to glide over the sunless water shut in by the\nstupendous sidewalls of rock At a sandy spit to the west of the gorge\nwe landed and put things in order And here I stood and watched the\njunks disappear down the river one after the other and I saw the truth\nof what Hosie had written that as their masts are always unshipped in\nthe down passage the junks seem to be passing with their human freight\ninto eternity\n\nAn immensely high declivity with a precipitous face was in front of us\nwhich strained your eyes to look at yet high up to the summit and to\nthe very edge of the precipice little farmsteads are dotted and every\nyard of land available is under cultivation So steep is it that the\nscanty soil must be washed away you think at the first rains and only\nan adventurous goat could dwell there in comfort My laoban Enjeh\npointing to this mighty mass said _Pin su chiao_ but whether these\nwords were the name of the place or were intended to convey to me his\nsense of its magnificence or dealt with the question of the\nprecariousness of tenure so far above our heads I had no means to\ndetermine\n\nMy laoban knew twelve words of English and I twelve words of Chinese\nand this was the extent of our common vocabulary it had to be carefully\neked out with signs and gestures I knew the Chinese for rice\nflourcake tea egg chopsticks opium bed byandby how many\ncharcoal cabbage and customs My laoban could say in English or\npidgin English chow number one no good go ashore sit down\nbyandby tomorrow match lamp alright one piecee and goddam This\nlast named exotic he had been led to consider as synonymous with very\ngood It was not the first time I had known the words to be misapplied\nI remember reading in the _Sydney Bulletin_ that a Chinese cook in\nSydney when applying for a situation detailed to the mistress his\nundeniable qualifications concluding with the memorable announcement\nMy Clistian man mum my eat beef my say goddam\n\nThere was a small village behind us The villagers strolled down to see\nthe foreigner whom children well in the background called _Yang\nkweitze_ foreign devil Below on the sand were the remains of a\njunk confiscated for smuggling salt it had been sawn bodily in two\nSalt is a Government monopoly and a junk found smuggling it is\nconfiscated on the spot\n\nKueichow on the left bank is the first walled town we came to Here\nwe had infinite difficulty in passing the rapids and crossed and\nrecrossed the river several times I sat in the boat stripped and\nshivering for shipwreck seemed certain and I did not wish to be\ndrowned like a rat For cool daring I never saw the equal of my boys\nand their nicety of judgment was remarkable Creeping along close to the\nbank every moment in danger of having its bottom knocked out the boat\nwould be worked to the exact point from which the crossing of the river\nwas feasible balanced for a moment in the stream then with sail set\nand a clipping breeze and my men working like demons with the oars\ntaking short strokes and stamping time with their feet the boat shot\ninto the current We made for a rock in the centre of the river we\nmissed it and my heart was in my mouth as I saw the rapid below us into\nwhich we were being drawn when the boat mysteriously swung half round\nand glided under the lee of the rock One of the boys leapt out with the\nbowrope and the others with scull and boathook worked the boat round\nto the upper edge of the rock and then steadying her for the dash\nacross pushed off again into the swirling current and made like fiends\nfor the bank Standing on the stern managing the sheet and tiller and\nwith his bamboo pole ready the laoban yelled and stamped in his\nexcitement there was the roar of the cataract below us towards which\nwe were fast edging stern on destruction again threatened us and all\nseemed over when in that moment we entered the backwash and were again\nin good shelter And so it went on my men with splendid skill doing\nalways the right thing in the right way at the right time with\nunerring certainty\n\nAt Yehtan rapid which is said to be the worst on the river in the\nwinter as the Hsintan rapid is in summer three of the boys went\nashore to haul us up the ledge of waterthey were plainly insufficient\nWhile we were hanging on the cataract extra trackers appeared from\nbehind the rocks and offered their services They could bargain with us\nat an advantage It was a case well known to all Chinese of speaking of\nthe price after the pig has been killed But when we agreed to their\nterms they laid hold of the towrope and hauled us through in a moment\nHere as at other dangerous rapids on the river an official lifeboat is\nstationed It is of broad beam painted red The sailors are paid eighty\ncash _2d_ a day and are rewarded with 1000 cash for every life they\nsave and 800 cash for every corpse\n\nWushan Gorge the Witches Gorge which extends from Kuantukou to\nWushanhsien a distance of twenty miles is the longest gorge on the\nriver\n\nDirectly facing us as we emerged from the gorge was the walled town of\nWushanhsien Its guardian pagoda with its seven stories and its\nupturned gables like the rim of an official hat is downstream from\nthe city and thus prevents wealth and prosperity being swept by the\ncurrent past the city\n\nBeyond there is a short but steep rapid Before a strong wind with all\nsail set we boldly entered it and determined which was the stronger the\nwind or the current But while we hung in the current calling and\nwhistling for the wind the wind flagged for a moment tension being\nremoved the bow swung into the rocks but the water was shallow and in\na trice two of the boys had jumped into the water and were holding the\nboatsides Then poling and pulling we crept up the rapid into smooth\nwater Never was there any confusion never a false stroke To hear my\nboys jabber in their unintelligible speech you pictured disorder and\ndisaster and wild excitement to see them act you witnessed such\ncoolness skill and daring as you had rarely seen before My boys were\nall young The captain was only twenty and was a model of physical\ngrace with a face that will gladden the heart of the Chinese maiden\nwhom he condescends to select to be the mother of his children\n\nJunks were making slow progress up the river The towpath is here on the\nleft bank sixty feet above the present level of the river Barefooted\ntrackers often one hundred in a gang clamber over the rocks like a\npack of hounds in full cry each with the coupling over his shoulder\nand all singing in chorus the junk they are towing often a quarter of a\nmile astern of them When a rapid intervenes they strain like bondmen at\nthe towrope the line creaks under the enormous tension but holds fast\nOn board the junk a drum tattoo is beaten and firecrackers let off\nand a dozen men with long ironshod bamboos sheer the vessel off the\nrocks as foot by foot it is drawn past the obstruction Contrast with\nthis toilsome slowness the speed of the junk bound downstream Its mast\nis shipped its prodigious bowsweep projects like a low bowsprit the\nafter deck is covered as far as midships with arched matroof coils of\nbamboo rope are hanging under the awning a score or more of boatmen\nstanding to their work and singing to keep time work the yulos as\nlooking like a modern whaleback the junk races down the rapids\n\nKweichoufu 146 miles from Ichang is one of the largest cities on the\nUpper Yangtse Just before it is the Fenghsiang Gorge the Windbox\nGorge where the mountains have been again cleft in twain to let pass\nthe river this is the last of the great gorges of the Yangtse\n\nWe had left the province of Hupeh Kweichou is the first prefectural\ncity that the traveller meets in Szechuen for that reason my laoban\nrequired me to give him my passport that he might take it ashore and\nhave it viseed by the magistrate While he was away two Customs\nofficials searched my boat for contraband goods When he returned he\nhad to pay a squeeze at the Customs station We clawed with our hooked\nbamboos round the sterns of a hundred Szechuen junks and were again\narrested at a likin boat and more cash passed from my laoban to the\nofficials in charge We went on again when a third time we came face on\nto a likinbarrier and a third time my laoban was squeezed After this\nwe were permitted to continue our journey For the rest of the day\nwhenever the laoban caught my eye he raised three fingers and with a\nrueful shake of the head said Kweichou haikwan customs no good and\nthen he swore no doubt\n\nMy little boat was the smallest on the river In sailing it could hold\nits own with all but the long ferry boats or tenders which accompany the\nlarger junks to land the trackers and towline These boats carry a huge\nsquare sail set vertically from sheer legs and are very fast But in\nrowing poling and tracking we could beat the river\n\nAnping was passeda beautiful country town in a landscape of red hills\nand rich green pastures of groves of bamboo and cypress of pretty\nlittle farmhouses with overhanging eaves and picturesque temples in\nwooded glens\n\nAt Chipatzu there are the remains of a remarkable embankment built of\nhuge blocks of dressed stone resting upon a noble brow of natural rock\ndeep Chinese characters are cut into the stone but the glory is\ndeparted and there are now only a few straggling huts where there was\nonce a large city\n\nThe river was now at its lowest and at every point of sand and shingle\nmeagre bands of gold puddlers were at work washing for gold in cradle\nrockers To judge however from the shabbiness of their surroundings\nthere was little fear that their gains would disturb the equilibrium of\nthe worlds gold yield\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER III\n\nTHE CITY OF WANHSIEN AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN TO CHUNGKING\n\n\nAt daylight on March 1st we were abreast of the many storied pagoda\nwhose lofty position commanding the approach to the city brings good\nfortune to the city of Wanhsien A beautiful country is thisthe\nchocolate soil richly tilled the sides of the hills dotted with\nfarmhouses in groves of bamboo and cedar with every variety of green in\nthe fields shot through with blazing patches of the yellow rapeseed\nThe current was swift the water was shallow where we were tracking and\nwe were constantly aground in the shingle but we rounded the point and\nWanhsien was before us This is the halfway city between Ichang and\nChungking My smart laoban dressed himself in his best to be ready to go\nashore with me he was jubilant at his skill in bringing me so quickly\nSampan number one goddam he said and holding up two hands he\nturned down seven fingers to show that we had come in seven days Then\nhe pointed to other boats that we were passing and counted on his\nfingers fifteen whereby I knew he was demonstrating that had I gone in\nany other boat but his I should have been fifteen days on the way\ninstead of seven\n\nAn immense number of junks of all kinds were moored to the bank bow on\nMany of them were large vessels with hulls like that of an Aberdeen\nclipper Many carry foreign flags by which they are exempt from the\nChinese likin duties so capricious in their imposition and pay instead\na general five per cent _ad valorem_ duty on their cargoes which is\nlevied by the Imperial Maritime Customs and collected either in\nChungking or Ichang From one to the other with boathooks and paddle\nwe crept past the outer wings of their balanced rudders till we reached\nthe landing place On the rocks at the landing a bevy of women were\nwashing beating their hardy garments with wooden flappers against the\nstones but they ceased their work as the foreign devil in his uncouth\ngarb stepped ashore in their midst Wanhsien is not friendly to\nforeigners in foreign garb I did not know this and went ashore dressed\nas a European Never have I received such a spontaneous welcome as I did\nin this city never do I wish to receive such another I landed at the\nmouth of the small creek which separates the large walled city to the\neast from the still larger city beyond the walls to the west My laoban\nwas with me We passed through the washerwomen Boys and ragamuffins\nhanging about the shipping saw me and ran towards me yelling _Yang\nkweitze Yang kweitze_ foreign devil foreign devil\n\nBehind the booths a storyteller had gathered a crowd in a moment he\nwas alone and the crowd were following me up the hill yelling and\nhowling with a familiarity most offensive to a sensitive stranger My\nsturdy boy wished me to produce my passport which is the size of an\nadmirals ensign but I was not such a fool as to do so for it had to\nserve me for many months yet With this taunting noisy crowd I had to\nwalk on as if I enjoyed the demonstration I stopped once and spoke to\nthe crowd and as I knew no Chinese I told them in gentle English of\nthe very low opinion their conduct led me to form of the moral\nrelations of their mothers and the resignation with which it induced me\nto contemplate the hyperpyretic surroundings of their posthumous\nexistence and borrowing the Chinese imprecation I ventured to express\nthe hope that when their souls return again to earth they may dwell in\nthe bodies of hogs since they appeared to me the only habitations meet\nfor them\n\nBut my words were useless With a smiling face but rage at my heart I\nled the procession up the creek to a stone bridge where large numbers\nleft me only to have their places taken on the other bank by a still\nmore enthusiastic gathering I stopped here a moment in the jostling\ncrowd to look upstream at that singular natural bridge which an\nenormous mass of stone has formed across the creek and I could see the\nhigh arched bridge beyond it which stretches from bank to bank in one\nnoble span and is so high above the water that junks can pass under it\nin the summer time when the rains swell this little stream into a broad\nand navigable river\n\nThen we climbed the steep bank into the city and entering by a dirty\nnarrow street we emerged into the main thoroughfare the crowd still\nfollowing and the shops emptying into the street to see me We passed\nthe Mohammedan Mosque the Roman Catholic Mission the City Temple to a\nChinese house where I was slipped into the court and the door shut and\nthen into another to find that I was in the home of the China Inland\nMission and that the pigtailed celestial receiving me at the steps was\nMr Hope Gill It was my clothes I then learnt that had caused the\nmanifestation in my honour An hour later when I came out again into\nthe street the crowd was waiting still to see me but it was\ndisappointed to see me now dressed like one of themselves In the\nmeantime I had resumed my Chinese dress Look the people said at\nthe foreigner he had on foreign dress and now he is dressed in Chinese\neven to his queue Look at his queue it is false I took off my hat to\nscratch my head Look they shouted again at his queue it is stuck\nto the inside of his hat But they ceased to follow me\n\nThere are three Missionaries in Wanhsien of the China Inland Mission\none of whom is from Sydney The mission has been opened six years and\nhas been fairly successful or completely unsuccessful according to the\npoint of view of the inquirer\n\nMr Hope Gill the senior member of the mission is a most earnest good\nman who works on in his discouraging task with an enthusiasm and\ndevotion beyond all praise A Premillennialist he preaches without\nceasing throughout the city and his preaching is earnest and\nindiscriminate His method has been sarcastically likened by the\nChinese in the words of one of their bestknown aphorisms to the\nunavailing efforts of a blind fowl picking at random after worms\nNearly all the Chinese in Wanhsien have heard the doctrine described\nwith greater or less unintelligibility and it is at their own risk if\nthey still refuse to be saved\n\nDuring the cholera epidemic this brave man never left his post he never\nrefused a call to attend the sick and dying and at the risk of his\nown saved many lives And what is his reward This work he did the\nChinese say not from a disinterested love of his fellows which was his\nundoubted motive but to accumulate merit for himself in the invisible\nworld beyond the grave Gratitude says this missionary and it is the\nopinion of many is a condition of heart or of mind which seems to be\nincapable of existence in the body of a Chinaman Yet other\nmissionaries tell me that no man can possess a livelier sense of\ngratitude than a Chinaman or manifest it with more sincerity If our\nwords are compared to the croaking of the frog we heed it not but\nfreely express the feelings of our heart are actual words addressed by\na grateful Chinese patient to the first medical missionary in China And\nthe Chinaman himself will tell you says Smith that it does not follow\nthat because he does not exhibit gratitude he does not feel it When\nthe dumb man swallows a tooth he may not say much about it but it is\nall inside\n\nSince its foundation in 1887 the Inland Mission of Wanhsien has been\nconducted with brave perseverance There are unfortunately no\nconverts but there are three hopeful inquirers whose conversion\nwould be the more speedy the more likely they were to obtain employment\nafterwards They argue in this way they say to quote the words used by\nthe Rev G L Mason at the Shanghai Missionary Conference of 1890 if\nthe foreign teacher will take care of our bodies we will do him the\nfavour to seek the salvation of our souls This question of the\nemployment of converts is one of the chief difficulties of the\nmissionary in China The idea derived from Buddhism is universally\nprevalent in China says the Rev C W Mateer that everyone who\nenters any sect should live by it When a Chinaman becomes a\nChristian he expects to live by his Christianity\n\nOne of the three inquirers was shown me he was described as the most\nadvanced of the three in knowledge of the doctrine Now I do not wish to\nwrite unkindly but I am compelled to say that this man was a poor\nwretched ragged coolie who sells the commonest gritty cakes in a\nrickety stall round the corner from the mission who can neither read\nnor write and belongs to a very humble order of blunted intelligence\nThe poor fellow is the father of a little girl of three an only child\nwho is both deaf and dumb And there is the fear that his fondness for\nthe little one tempts him to give hope to the missionaries that in him\nthey are to see the first fruit of their toil the first in the district\nto be saved by their teaching while he nurses a vague hope that when\nthe foreign teachers regard him as adequately converted they may be\nwilling to restore speech and hearing to his poor little offspring It\nis a scant harvest\n\nAfter a Chinese dinner the missionary and I went for a walk into the\ncountry In the main street we met a troop of beggars each with a bowl\nof rice and garbage and a long stick with a few tattered rags hanging\nround his loinsthey were the poorest poor I had ever seen They were\nthe beggars of the city who had just received their midday meal at the\nWanhsien Ragged Homes There are three institutions of the kind in the\ncity for the relief of the destitute they are entirely supported by\ncharity and are said to have an average annual income of 40000 taels\nWanhsien is a very rich city with wealthy merchants and great salt\nhongs The landed gentry and the great junk owners have their town\nhouses here The money distributed by the townspeople in private charity\nis unusually great even for a Chinese city Its most publicspirited\ncitizen is Chen one of the merchant princes of China whose\ntransactions are confined exclusively to the products of his own\ncountry Starting life with an income of one hundred taels bequeathed\nhim by his father Chen has now agents all over the empire and\nmercantile dealings which are believed to yield him a clear annual\nincome of a quarter of a million taels His probity is a byword his\nbenefactions have enriched the province That cutting in the face of the\ncliff in the Fenghsiang Gorge near Kweichoufu where a pathway for\ntrackers has been hewn out of the solid rock was done at his expense\nand is said to have cost one hundred thousand taels Not only by his\nbenefactions has Chen laid up for himself merit in heaven but he has\nalready had his reward in this world His son presented himself for the\nMA examination for the Hanlin degree the highest academical degree in\nthe Empire Everyone in China knows that success in this examination is\ndependent upon the favour of Wunchangtekeun the god of literature\nTaoist who from generation to generation hath sent his miraculous\ninfluence down upon earth and as the god had seen with approbation\nthe good works done by the father he gave success to the son When the\nson returned home after his good fortune he was met beyond the walls\nand escorted into the city with royal honours his success was a triumph\nfor the city which gave him birth\n\nA short walk and we were out of the city following a flagged path with\nflights of steps winding up the hill through levelled terraces rich with\nevery kind of cereal and with abundance of poppy Splendid views of one\nof the richest agricultural regions in the world are here unfolded Away\ndown in the valley is the palatial family mansion of Pien one of the\nwealthiest yeomen in the province Beyond you see the commencement of\nthe high road a paved causeway eight feet wide which extends for\nhundreds of miles to Chentu the capital of the province and takes rank\nas the finest work of its kind in the empire On every hilltop is a\nfort That bolder than the rest commanding the city at a distance of\nfive miles is on the Hill of Heavenly Birth It was built says\nHobson during the Taiping Rebellion it existed says the missionary\nbefore the present dynasty discrepant statements characteristic of this\ncountry of contradictions But whether thirty or two hundred and fifty\nyears old the fort is now one in name only and is at present occupied\nby a garrison of peaceful peasantry\n\nChinamen that we met asked us politely if we had eaten our rice and\nwhither were we going We answered correctly But when with equal\npoliteness we asked the wayfarer where he was going he jerked his chin\ntowards the horizon and said a long way\n\nWe called at the residence of a rich young Chinese who had lately\nreceived it in his inheritance together with 3000 acres of farmland\nwhich we were told yield him an annual income of 70000 taels In the\nabsence of the master who was away in the country reading with his\ntutor for the Hanlin degree we were received by the caretakers who\nshowed us the handsome guest chambers the splendid gilded tablet the\nlarge courts and garden rockeries A handsome residence is this\nsolidly built of wood and masonry and with the trellis work carved with\nmuch elaboration\n\nIt was late when we returned to the mission and after dark when I went\non board my little wupan My boys had not been idle They had bought new\nprovisions of excellent quality and had made the boat much more\ncomfortable The three kind missionaries came down to wish me Godspeed\nBrave men they deserve a kinder fortune than has been their fate\nhitherto We crossed the river and anchored above the city ready\nagainst an early start in the morning\n\nThe day after leaving Wanhsien was the first time that we required any\nassistance on our journey from another junk it was cheerfully given\nOur towrope had chafed through and we were in a difficulty attempting\nto pass a bad rapid among the rocks when a large junk was hauled bodily\npast us and seeing our plight hooked on to us and towed us with them\nout of danger On this night we anchored under the Sentinel Rock\nShihpaochai perhaps the most remarkable landmark on the river From\ntwo hundred to three hundred feet high and sixty feet wide at the base\nit is a detached rock cleft vertically from a former cliff A\nninestoried pagoda has been inset into the southeastern face and\ntemple buildings crown the summit\n\nIt was surprising how well my men lived on board the boat They had\nthree good meals a day always with rice and abundance of vegetables\nand frequently with a little pork Cooking was done while we were under\nway for the purpose we had two little earthenware stoves two pans and\na kettle All along the river cabbages and turnips are abundant and\ncheap Bumboats laden to the rail waylay the boats _en route_ and\noffer an armful of fresh vegetables for the equivalent in copper cash of\nthreeeighths of a penny Other boats peddle firewood cut short and\nbound in little bundles and sticks of charcoal Coal is everywhere\nabundant and there are excellent briquettes for sale made of a mixture\nof clay and coaldust\n\nAll day long now for the rest of our voyage we sailed through a\nbeautiful country From the hill tops to the waters edge the hillsides\nare levelled into a succession of terraces there are cereals and the\nuniversal poppy pretty hamlets and thriving little villages a river\nhalf a mile wide thronged with every kind of river craft and back in\nthe distance snowclad mountains There are bamboo sheds at every point\nwith coils of bamboo towrope mats and baskets and huge Szechuen hats\nas wide as an umbrella\n\nOn the morning of March 5th I was awakened by loud screaming and yelling\nahead of us I squeezed out of my cabin and saw a huge junk looming\ndown upon us In an awkward rapid its towline had parted and the huge\nstructure tumbling uncontrolled in the water was bearing down on us\nbroadside on It seemed as if we should be crushed against the rocks\nand we must have been but for the marvellous skill with which the\nsailors on the junk just at the critical time swung their vessel out\nof danger They were yelling with discord but worked together as one\nman\n\nIn the afternoon we were at Fengtuhsien a flourishing river port one\nof the principal outlets of the opium traffic of the Upper Yangtse Next\nday we were at Fuchou the other opium port whose trade in opium is\ngreater still than that of Fengtuhsien It is at the junction of a\nlarge tributarythe Kungtanho which is navigable for large vessels\nfor more than two hundred miles Large numbers of the Fuchou junks were\nmoored here which differ in construction from all other junks on the\nriver Yangtse in having their great sterns twisted or wrung a quarter\nround to starboard and in being steered by an immense stern sweep and\nnot by the balanced rudder of an ordinary junk\n\nThe following day after a long days work we moored beyond the town of\nChangshowhsien Here I paid the laoban 2000 cash whereupon he paid\nhis men something on account and then blandly suggested a game of\ncards He was fast winning back his money when I intervened and bade\nthem turn in as I wished to make an early start in the morning The\nriver seemed to get broader deeper and more rapid as we ascended the\ntrackers on the contrary became thinner narrower and more decrepit\n\nOn March 8th our fourteenth day out disaster nearly overtook us when\nwithin a days sail of our destination Next day we reached Chungking\nsafely having done by some days the fastest journey on record up the\nYangtse rapids My captain and his young crew had finished the journey\nwithin the time agreed upon\n\nIllustration THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNGLOHSIA\n\nIllustration MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FUTOKUAN\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IV\n\nTHE CITY OF CHUNGKINGTHE CHINESE CUSTOMSTHE FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS\nAND A FEW WORDS ON THE OPIUM FALLACY\n\n\nAfter passing through the gorge known as Tunglohsia ten miles from\nChungking the laoban tried to attract my attention calling me from my\ncrib and pointing with his chin up the river repeating Haikwan one\npiecee which I interpreted to mean that there was an outpost of the\ncustoms here in charge of one white man and this proved to be the case\nThe customs kuatze or houseboat was moored to the left bank the\nImperial Customs flag floated gaily over an animated collection of\nnative craft We drew alongside the junk and an Englishman appeared at\nthe window\n\nWhere from he asked laconically\n\nAustralia\n\nThe devil so am I What part\n\nVictoria\n\nSo am I Town\n\nLast from Ballarat\n\nMy native town by Jove Jump up\n\nI gave him my card He looked at it and said When I was last in\nVictoria I used to follow with much interest a curious walk across\nAustralia from the Gulf of Carpentaria to Melbourne done by a namesake\nAny relation The same man Im delighted to see you Here then at the\nmost inland of the customs stations in China 1500 miles from the sea\nI met my fellow countryman who was born near my home and whose father\nwas a wellknown Mayor of Ballarat City\n\nLike myself he had formerly been a student of Melbourne University but\nI was many years his senior What was his experience of the University I\nforgot to inquire but mine I remember vividly enough for it was not\nhappy In the examination for the Secondyear Medicine hoping the more\nto impress the Professors I entered my name for honoursand they\nrejected me in the preliminary pass It seems that in the examination in\nMateria Medica I had among other trifling lapses prescribed a dose of\nOleum Crotonis of one half to two drachms _carefully increased_ I\nconfess that I had never heard of the wretched stuff the question was\ntaken from far on in the text book and unfortunately my reading had\nnot extended quite so far When a deputation from my family waited upon\nthe examiner to ascertain the cause of my misadventure the only\nsatisfaction we got was the obliging assurance that you might as well\nlet a mad dog loose in Collins Street as allow me to become a doctor\nAnd then the examiner produced my prescription But I thought I saw a\nfaint chance of escape I pointed a nervous finger to the two words\ncarefully increased and pleaded that that indication of caution ought\nto save me Save _you_ it might he shouted with unnecessary\nvehemence but God bless my soul man it would not save your\npatient The examiner was a man intemperate of speech so I left the\nUniversity It was a severe blow to the University but the University\nsurvived it\n\nMy countryman had been five years in China in the customs service that\nmarvellous organisation which is more impartially open to all the world\nthan any other service in the world As an example I note that among\nthe Commissioners of Customs at the ports of the River Yangtse alone at\nthe time of my voyage the Commissioner at Shanghai was an Austrian at\nKiukiang a Frenchman at Hankow an Englishman at Ichang a Scandinavian\nand at Chungking a German\n\nThe Australian had been ten months at Chungking His upriver journey\noccupied thirtyeight days and was attended with one moving incident\nIn the Hsintan rapid the towline parted and his junk was smashed to\npieces by the rocks and all that he possessed destroyed It was in this\nrapid that my boat narrowly escaped disaster but there was this\ndifference in our experiences that at the time of his accident the\nriver was sixty feet higher than on the occasion of mine\n\nTangchiato the customs outstation is ten miles by river from\nChungking but not more than four miles by land So I sent the boat on\nand in the afternoon walked over to the city A customs coolie came with\nme to show me the way My friend accompanied me to the river crossing\nwalking with me through fields of poppy and sugarcane and open beds of\ntobacco At the river side he left me to return to his solitary home\nwhile I crossed the river in a sampan and then set out over the hills\nto Chungking It was more than ever noticeable the poor hungry\nwretchedness of the river coolies For three days past all the trackers\nI had seen were the most wretched in physique of any I had met in China\nPhthisis and malaria prevail among them their work is terribly arduous\nthey suffer greatly from exposure they appear to be starving in the\nmidst of abundance My coolie showed well by contrast with the trackers\nhe was sleek and well fed A chop dollar as he would be termed down\nsouth for his face was punched or chopped with the smallpox he swung\nalong the paved pathway and up and down the endless stone steps in a way\nthat made me breathless to follow We passed a few straggling houses and\nwayside shrines and tombstones All the dogs in the district recognised\nthat I was a stranger and yelped consumedly like the wolfish mongrels\nthat they are From a hill we obtained a misty view of the City of\nChungking surrounded on two sides by river and covering a broad expanse\nof hill and highland I was taken to the customs pontoon on the south\nbank of the river and then up the steep bank by many steps to the\nbasement of an old temple where the two customs officers have their\npleasant dwelling I was kindly received and stayed the night We were\nan immense height above the water the great city was across the broad\nexpanse of river here more than seven hundred yards in width Away down\nbelow us moored close to the bank and guarded by three Chinese armed\njunks or gunboats was the customs hulk where the searching is done\nand where the three officers of the outdoor staff have their offices\nThere is at present but little smuggling because there are no Chinese\nofficials Smuggling may be expected to begin in earnest as soon as\nChinese officials are introduced to prevent it Chinese searchers do\nbest who use their eyes not to seebest for themselves that is The\ngunboats guarding this Haikwan Station have a nominal complement of\neighty men and an actual complement of twentyfour to avoid however\nunnecessary explanation pay is drawn by the commanding officer not for\nthe actual twentyfour but for the nominal eighty\n\nIllustration THE CITY OF CHUNGKING AS SEEN FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF\nTHE RIVER YANGTSE\n\nMy two companions in the temple were tidewaiters in the Customs There\nare many storied lives locked away among the tidewaiters in China Down\nthe river there is a tidewaiter who was formerly professor of French in\nthe Imperial University of St Petersburg and here in Chungking\nfilling the same humble post is the godson of a marquis and the nephew\nof an earl a brave soldier whose father is a majorgeneral and his\nmother an earls daughter and who is first cousin to that enlightened\nnobleman and legislator the Earl of C Few men so young have had so many\nand varied experiences as this sturdy Briton He has humped his swag in\nAustralia has earned fifteen shillings a day there as a blackleg\nprotected by police picquets on a New South Wales coal mine He was at\nHarrow under Dr Butler and at Corpus Christi Cambridge He has been\nin the Dublin Fusiliers and a lieutenant in Weatherbys Horse enlisted\nin the 5th Lancers and rose from private to staffsergeant and ten\nmonths later would have had his commission He served with distinction\nin the Soudan and Zululand and has three medals with four clasps He\nwas present at El Teb and at the disaster at Tamai when McNeills\nzareeba was broken He was at Telelkebir saw Burnaby go forth to meet\na coveted death at Abuklea and was present at AbuKru when Sir Herbert\nStewart received his deathwound He was at Rorkes Drift and appears\nwith that heroic band in Miss Elizabeth Thompsons painting Leaving the\narmy C held for a time a commission in the mounted constabulary of\nMadras and now he is a third class assistant tidewaiter in the Imperial\nMaritime Customs of China with a salary as low as his spirits are high\n\nChungking is an open port which is not an open port By the treaty of\nTientsin it is included in the clause which states that any foreign\nsteamer going to it a closed port shall be confiscated Yet by the\nChefoo Convention Chungking is to become an open port as soon as the\nfirst foreign steamer shall reach there This reminds one of the\nconflicting instructions once issued by a certain government in\nreference to the building of a new gaol The instructions were\nexplicit\n\n     Clause IThe new gaol shall be constructed out of the\n     materials of the old\n\n     Clause IIThe prisoners shall remain in the old gaol till\n     the new gaol is constructed\n\nIn Chungking the Commissioner of Customs is Dr F Hirth whose Chinese\nhouse is on the highest part of Chungking in front of a temple which\ndimly seen through the mist is the crowning feature of the city A\ndistinguished sinologue is the doctor one of the finest Chinese\nscholars in the Empire author of China and the Roman Orient Ancient\nPorcelain and an elaborate Textbook of Documentary Chinese which is\nin the hands of most of the Customs staff in China for whose assistance\nit was specially written Dr Hirth is a German who has been many years\nin China He holds the third button the transparent blue button the\nthird rank in the nine degrees by which Chinese Mandarins are\ndistinguished\n\nThe best site in Chungking has been fortunately secured by the Methodist\nEpiscopalian Mission of the United States Their missionaries dwell with\ngreat comfort in the only foreignbuilt houses in the city in a large\ncompound with an ample garden Their Mission hospital is a wellequipped\nAngloChinese building attached to the city wall and overlooking from\nits lofty elevation the Little River and the walled city beyond it\n\nThe wards of the hospital are comfortable and well lit the floors are\nvarnished the beds are provided with spring mattresses indeed in the\ncomfort of the hospital the Chinese find its chief discomfort A\nseparate compartment has been walled off for the treatment of\nopiumsmokers who desire by forced restraint to break off the habit\nThree opiumsmokers were in durance at the time of my visit they were\nhappy and contented and well nourished and none but the trained eye of\nan expert who saw what he wished to see could have guessed that they\nwere addicted to the use of a drug which has been described in\nexaggerated terms as more deadly to the Chinese than war famine and\npestilence combined Rev A H Smith Chinese Characteristics p\n187\n\nNot long ago three men were admitted into the hospital suffering on\ntheir own confession from the opium habit They freely expressed the\ndesire of their hearts to be cured and were received with welcome and\nplaced in confinement Every effort was made to wean them from the habit\nwhich they alleged had seized them in a death grip Attentive to the\nteacher and obedient to the doctor they gave every hope of being early\nadmitted into Church fellowship But one night the desire to return to\nthe drug became irresistible and strangely the desire attacked all\nthree men at the same time on the same night and they escaped together\nSadly enough there was in this case marked evidence of the demoralising\ninfluence of opium for when they escaped they took with them everything\nportable that they could lay their hands on It was a sad trial\n\nExcellent medical work is done in the hospital From the first annual\nreport just published by the surgeon in charge an MD from the United\nStates I extract the two following pleasing items\n\n_Medical Work_Mr Tsang Taotai of KueiIangfu was an eye witness\nto several operations as well as being operated upon for Internal\nPiles the last words in large capitals\n\n_Evangelistic Work_Mrs Wei in the hospital for suppurating glands\nof the neck became greatly interested in the truth while there left a\nbeliever and attends Sunday service regular _sic_ walking from a\ndistant part of the city each Sunday We regard her as very hopeful and\nshe is reported by the Chinese as being very warmhearted She will be\nconverted when the first vacancy occurs in the nursing staff\n\nDuring my stay in Chungking I frequently met the French Consul _en\ncommission_ Monsieur Haas who had lately arrived on a diplomatic\nmission which was invested with much secrecy It was believed to have\nfor its object the diversion of the trade of Szechuen from its natural\nchannel the Yangtse River southward through Yunnan province to\nTonquin Success need not be feared to attend his mission _Ils\nperdront et leur temps et leur argent_ Monsieur Haas has helped to\nmake history in his time The most gentlemannered of men he writes\nwith strange rancour against the perfidious designs of Britain in the\nEast In his diplomatic career Monsieur Haas suffered one great\ndisappointment He was formerly the French Charge dAffaires and\nPolitical Resident at the court of King Theebaw in Mandalay And it was\nhis Secret Treaty with the king which forced the hand of England and\nled to her hasty occupation of Upper Burma The story is a very pretty\none By this treaty French influence was to become predominant in Upper\nBurma the country was to become virtually a colony of France with a\ncommunity of interest with France with France to support her in any\ndifficulty with British Burma Such a position England could not\ntolerate for one moment Fortunately for us French intrigue outwitted\nitself and the Secret Treaty became known It was in this way Draft\ncopies of the agreement drawn up in French and Burmese were exchanged\nbetween Monsieur Haas and King Theebaw But Monsieur Haas could not read\nBurmese and he distrusted the King A trusted interpreter was\nnecessary and there was only one man in Mandalay that seemed to him\nsufficiently trustworthy To Signor A then the Italian Charge\ndAffaires and Manager of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company Monsieur Haas\nwent and pledging him to secrecy sought his assistance as interpreter\n\nAs Monsieur Haas had done so did his Majesty the King Two great minds\nwere being guided by the same spirit Theebaw could not read French and\nhe distrusted Monsieur Haas An interpreter was essential and casting\nabout for a trusted one he decided that no one could serve him so\nfaithfully as Signor A and straightway sought his assistance as\nMonsieur Haas had done Their fates were in his hands which master\nshould the Italian serve the French or the Burmese He did not\nhesitatehe betrayed them both Within an hour the Secret Treaty was in\npossession of the British Resident Action was taken with splendid\npromptitude M de Freycinet when pressed on the subject repudiated\nany intention of acquiring for France a political predominance in\nBurma An immediate pretext was found to place Theebaw in a dilemma\neleven days later the British troops had crossed the frontier and Upper\nBurma was another province of our Indian Empire\n\nMonsieur Haas was recalled and his abortive action repudiated He had\nacted of course without orders he had erred from too much zeal\nSignor A was also recalled but did not go because the order was not\naccompanied with the customary cheque to defray the cost of his passage\nHis services to England were rewarded and he retained his engagement as\nManager of the Flotilla Company but he lost his appointment as the\nRepresentative of Italyan honourable post with a dignified salary paid\nby the Italian Government in IOUs\n\nChungking is an enormously rich city It is built at the junction of the\nLittle River and the Yangtse and is from its position the great river\nport of the province of Szechuen Waterways stretch from here an\nimmense distance inland The Little River is little only in comparison\nwith the Yangtse and in any other country would be regarded as a mighty\ninland river It is navigable for more than 2000 li 600 miles The\nYangtse drains a continent the Little River drains a province larger\nthan a European kingdom Chungking is built at a great height above the\npresent river now sixty feet below its summer level Its walls are\nunscalable Good influences are directed over the city from a lofty\npagoda on the topmost hill in the vicinity Temples abound and spacious\nyamens and rich buildings the crowning edifice of all being the Temple\nto the God of Literature Distances are prodigious in Chungking and the\nstreets so steep and hilly with flights of stairs cut from the solid\nrock that only a mountaineer can live here in comfort All who can\nafford it go in chairs stands of sedan chairs are at every important\nstreet corner\n\nIllustration A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING\n\nDuring the day the city vibrates with teeming traffic at night the\nstreets are deserted and dead the stillness only disturbed by a\ndistant watchman springing his bamboo rattle to keep himself awake and\nwarn robbers of his approach In no city in Europe is security to life\nand property better guarded than in this or indeed in any other\nimportant city in China It is a truism to say that no people are more\nlawabiding than the Chinese they appear says Medhurst to maintain\norder as if by common consent independent of all surveillance\n\nOur Consul in Chungking is Mr E H Fraser an accomplished Chinese\nscholar who fills a difficult post with rare tact and complete success\nConsul Fraser estimates the population of Chungking at 200000 the\nChinese he says have a record of 35000 families within the walls Of\nthis number from forty to fifty per cent of all men and from four to\nfive per cent of all women indulge in the opium pipe The city abounds\nin opiumshopsshops that is where the little opiumlamps and the\nopiumpipes are stacked in hundreds upon hundreds Opium is one of the\nstaple products of this rich province and one of the chief sources of\nwealth of this flourishing city\n\nDuring the nine months that I was in China I saw thousands of\nopiumsmokers but I never saw one to whom could be applied that\ndescription by Lay of the British and Foreign Bible Society so often\nquoted of the typical opiumsmoker in China with his lank and\nshrivelled limbs tottering gait sallow visage feeble voice and\ndeathboding glance of eye proclaiming him the most forlorn creature\nthat treads upon the ground\n\nThis fantastic description paraded for years past for our sympathy can\nbe only applied to an infinitesimal number of the millions in China who\nsmoke opium It is a wellknown fact that should a Chinese suffering\nfrom the extreme emaciation of disease be also in the habit of using\nthe opiumpipe it is the pipe and not the disease that in ninetynine\ncases out of a hundred will be wrongly blamed as the cause of the\nemaciation\n\nDuring the year 1893 4275 tons of Indian opium were imported into China\nThe Chinese we are told plead to us with outstretched necks to cease\nthe great wrong we are doing in forcing them to buy our opium Many a\ntime says the Rev Dr Hudson Taylor have I seen the Chinaman point\nwith his thumb to Heaven and say There is Heaven up there There is\nHeaven up there What did he mean by that You may bring this opium to\nus you may force it upon us we cannot resist you but there is a Power\nup there that will inflict vengeance _National Righteousness_ Dec\n1892 p 13\n\nBut with all respect to Dr Hudson Taylor and his ingenious\ninterpretation of the Chinamans gesture it is extremely difficult for\nthe traveller in China to believe that the Chinese are sincere in their\ncondemnation of opium and the opium traffic In some countries says\nWingrove Cooke words represent facts but this is never the case in\nChina Li Hung Chang the Viceroy of Chihli in the wellknown letter\nthat he addressed to the Rev F Storrs Turner the Secretary of the\nSociety for the Suppression of the Opium Trade on May 24th 1881 a\nletter still widely circulated and perennially cited says the poppy\nis certainly surreptitiously grown in some parts of China\nnotwithstanding the laws and frequent Imperial edicts prohibiting its\ncultivation\n\nSurreptitiously grown in some parts of China Why from the time I left\nHupeh till I reached the boundary of Burma a distance of 1700 miles I\nnever remember to have been out of sight of the poppy Li Hung Chang\ncontinues I earnestly hope that your Society and all rightminded\nmen of your country will support the efforts China is now making to\nescape from the thraldom of opium And yet you are told in China that\nthe largest growers of the poppy in China are the family of Li Hung\nChang\n\nThe Society for the Suppression of Opium has circulated by tens of\nthousands a petition which was forwarded to them from the\nChinesespontaneously per favour of the missionaries Some tens of\nmillions this petition says some tens of millions of human beings in\ndistress are looking on tiptoe with outstretched necks for salvation to\ncome from you O just and benevolent men of England If not for the good\nor honour of your country then for mercys sake do this good deed now\nto save a people and the rescued millions shall themselves be your\ngreat reward _Chinas Millions_ iv 156\n\nAssume then that the Chinese do not want our opium and unavailingly\nbeseech us to stay this nefarious traffic which is as if the Rivers\nPhlegethon and Lethe were united in it carrying fire and destruction\nwherever it flows and leaving a deadly forgetfulness wherever it has\npassed The Rev Dr Wells Williams The Middle Kingdom i 288\n\nThey do not want our opium but they purchase from us 4275 tons per\nannum\n\nOf the eighteen provinces of China four only Kiangsu Chehkiang\nFuhkien and Kuangtung use Indian opium the remaining fourteen\nprovinces use exclusively homegrown opium Nativegrown opium has\nentirely driven the imported opium from the markets of the Yangtse\nValley no Indian opium except an insignificant quantity comes up the\nriver even as far as Hankow The Chinese do not want our opiumit\ncompetes with their own In the three adjoining provinces of Szechuen\nYunnan and Kweichow they grow their own opium but they grow more than\nthey need and have a large surplus to export to other parts of the\nEmpire The amount of this surplus can be estimated because all\nexported opium has to pay customs and likin dues to the value of two\nshillings a pound and the amount thus collected is known Allowing no\nmargin for opium that has evaded customs dues and there are no more\nscientific smugglers than the Chinese we still find that during the\nyear 1893 2250 tons of opium were exported from the province of\nSzechuen 1350 tons from Yunnan and 450 tons from Kweichow a total of\n4050 tons exported by the rescued millions of three provinces only for\nthe benefit of their fellowcountrymen who with outstretched necks\nplead to England to leave them alone in their monopoly\n\nEdicts are still issued against the use of opium They are drawn up by\nChinese philanthropists over a quiet pipe of opium signed by\nopiumsmoking officials whose revenues are derived from the poppy and\nposted near fields of poppy by the opiumsmoking magistrates who own\nthem\n\nIn the City Temple of Chungking there is a warning to opiumeaters One\nof the fiercest devils in hell is there represented gloating over the\ncrushed body of an opiumsmoker his protruding tongue is smeared with\nopium put there by the victim of _yin_ the opium craving who wishes\nto renounce the habit The opium thus collected is the perquisite of the\nTemple priests and at the gate of the Temple there is a stall for the\nsale of opium fittings\n\nMorphia pills are sold in Chungking by the Chinese chemists to cure the\nopium habit This profitable remedy was introduced by the foreign\nchemists of the coast ports and adopted by the Chinese Its advantage\nis that it converts a desire for opium into a taste for morphia a mode\nof treatment analogous to changing ones stimulant from colonial beer to\nmethylated spirit In 1893 15000 ounces of hydrochlorate of morphia\nwere admitted into Shanghai alone\n\nThe China Inland Mission have an important station at Chungking It was\nopened seventeen years ago in 1877 and is assisted by a representative\nof the Horsburgh Mission The mission is managed by a charming English\ngentleman who has exchanged all that could make life happy in England\nfor the wretched discomfort of this malarious city Every assistance I\nneeded was given me by this kindly fellow who like nearly all the China\nInland Mission men deserves success if he cannot command it A more\nengaging personality I have rarely met and it was sad to think that for\nthe past year 1893 no new convert was made by his Mission among the\nChinese of Chungking _Chinas Millions_ January 1894 The Mission\nhas been working shorthanded with only three missionaries instead of\nsix and progress has been much delayed in consequence\n\nThe London Missionary Society who have been here since 1889 have two\nmissionaries at work and have gathered nine communicants and six\nadherents Their work is largely aided by an admirable hospital under\nCecil Davenport FRCS a countryman of my own Broad Benevolence\nare the Chinese characters displayed over the entrance to the hospital\nand they truthfully describe the work done by the hospital In the\nchapel adjoining a red screen is drawn down the centre of the church\nand separates the men from the womenone of the chief pretexts that an\nEnglishman has for going to church is thus denied the Chinaman since he\ncannot cast an ogling eye through a curtain\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER V\n\nTHE JOURNEY FROM CHUNGKING TO SUIFUCHINESE INNS\n\n\nI left the boat at Chungking and started on my land journey going west\n230 miles to Suifu I had with me two coolies to carry my things the\none who received the higher pay having also to bring me my food make my\nbed and pay away my copper cash They could not speak a single word of\nEnglish They were to be paid for the journey one _4s 10d_ and the\nother _5s 7d_ They were to be entitled to no perquisites were to find\nthemselves on the way and take their chance of employment on the return\njourney They were to lead me into Suifu on the seventh day out from\nChungking All that they undertook to do they did to my complete\nsatisfaction\n\nOn the morning of March 14th I set out from Chungking to cross 1600\nmiles over Western China to Burma Men did not speak hopefully of my\nchance of getting through There were the rains of June and July to be\nfeared apart from other obstacles\n\nPere Lorain the Procureur of the French Mission who spoke from an\nexperience of twentyfive years of China assured me that speaking no\nChinese unarmed unaccompanied except by two poor coolies of the\nhumblest class and on foot I would have _les plus grandes\ndifficultes_ and Monsieur Haas the Consul _en commission_ was equally\npessimistic The evening before starting the Consul and my friend\nCarruthers one of the _Inverness Courier_ Carruthers gave me a lesson\nin Chinese French before breakfast was nothing to this kind of\ncramming I learnt a dozen useful words and phrases and rehearsed them\nin the morning to a member of the Inland Mission who cheered me by\nsaying that it would be a clever Chinaman indeed who could understand\nChinese like mine\n\nI left on foot by the West Gate being accompanied so far by A J\nLittle an experienced traveller and authority on China manager in\nChungking of the Chungking Transport Company which deals especially\nwith the transport of cargo from Ichang up the rapids whose book on\nThe Yangtse Gorges is known to every reader of books on China\n\nI was dressed as a Chinese teacher in thicklywadded Chinese gown with\npants stockings and sandals with Chinese hat and pigtail In my dress\nI looked a person of weight I must acknowledge that my outfit was very\npoor but this was not altogether a disadvantage for my men would have\nthe less temptation to levy upon it Still it would have been awkward if\nmy men had taken it into their heads to walk off with my things because\nI could not have explained my loss My chief efforts I knew throughout\nmy journey would be applied in the direction of inducing the Chinese to\ntreat me with the respect that was undoubtedly due to one who in their\nown words had done them the exalted honour of visiting their mean\nand contemptible country For I could not afford a private sedan chair\nthough I knew that Baber had written that no traveller in Western China\nwho possesses any sense of selfrespect should journey without a sedan\nchair not necessarily as a conveyance but for the honour and glory of\nthe thing Unfurnished with this indispensable token of respectability\nhe is liable to be thrust aside on the highway to be kept waiting at\nferries to be relegated to the worst inns worst room and generally to\nbe treated with indignity or what is sometimes worse with\nfamiliarity as a peddling footpad who unable to gain a living in his\nown country has come to subsist on China Travels and Researches in\nWestern China p 1\n\nSix li out two miles beyond the gravemounds there is a small village\nwhere ponies are kept for hire A kind friend came with me as far as the\nvillage to act as my interpreter and here he engaged a pony for me It\nwas to carry me ten miles for fourpence It was small ratlike and\nwiry and was steered by the mafoo using the tail like a tiller\nMounted then on this small beast which carried me without wincing I\njogged along over the stoneflagged pathway down hill and along valley\nscaling and descending the long flights of steps which lead over the\nmountains The bells of the pony jingled merrily the day was fine and\nthe sun shone behind the clouds My two coolies sublet their contracts\nand had their loads borne for a fraction of a farthing per mile by\ncoolies returning emptyhanded to Suifu\n\nIllustration ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU\n\nFutokuan four miles from Chungking is a powerful hillfort that guards\nthe isthmus where the Yangtse and the Little River come nearly together\nbefore encircling Chungking Set in the face of the cliff is a gigantic\nimage of Buddha Massive stone portals elaborately carved and huge\ncommemorative tablets cut from single blocks of stone and deeply\nengraved here adorn the highway The archways have been erected by\ncommand of the Emperor but at the expense of their relatives to the\nmemory of virtuous widows who have refused to remarry or who have\nsacrificed their lives on the death of their husbands Happy are those\nwhose names are thus recorded for not only do they obtain ten thousand\nmerits in heaven as well as the Imperial recognition of the Son of\nHeaven on earth but as an additional reward their souls may on\nentering the world a second time enjoy the indescribable felicity of\ninhabiting the bodies of men\n\nCases where the widow has thus brought honour to the family are\nconstantly recorded in the pages of the _Peking Gazette_ One of more\nthan usual merit is described in the _Peking Gazette_ of June 10th\n1892 The story runs\n\nThe Governor of Shansi narrates the story of a virtuous wife who\ndestroyed herself after the death of her husband The lady was a native\nof Tienmen in Hupeh and both her father and grandfather were\nofficials who attained the rank of Taotai When she was little more than\nten years old her mother fell ill The child cut flesh from her body and\nmixed it with the medicines and thus cured her parent The year before\nlast she was married to an expectant magistrate Last autumn just after\nhe had obtained an appointment he was taken violently ill She mixed\nher flesh with the medicine but it was in vain and he died shortly\nafterwards Overcome with grief and without parents or children to\ndemand her care she determined that she would not live Only waiting\ntill she had completed the arrangements for her husbands interment she\nswallowed gold and powder of lead She handed her trousseau to her\nrelatives to defray her funeral expenses and made presents to the\nyounger members of the family and the servants after which draped in\nher state robes she sat waiting her end The poison began to work and\nsoon all was over The memorialist thinks that the case is one which\nshould be recorded in the erection of a memorial arch and he asks the\nEmperor to grant that honour to the deceased lady _Granted_\n\nNear the base of the rock upon which the hillfort is built and between\nit and the city the Methodist Episcopalian Mission of the USA\ncommenced in 1886 to build what the Chinese in their ignorance feared\nwas a foreign fort but what was nothing more than a mission house in a\ncompound surrounded by a powerful wall The indiscreet mystery\nassociated with its erection was the exciting cause of the antiforeign\nriot of July 1886\n\nFrom the fort the pathway led us through a beautiful country We met\nnumbers of sedan chairs borne by two coolies or three according to\nthe importance of the traveller There were Chinese gentlemen mounted on\nponies or mules there were strings of coolies swinging along under\nprodigious loads of salt and coal and huge bales of raw cotton\nBuffaloes with slow and painful steps were ploughing the paddy fields\nthe water up to their middlesthe primitive plough and share guided by\nhalfnaked Chinamen Along the road there are inns and teahouses every\nmile or two for this is one of the most frequented roadways of China\nAt one goodsized village my cook signed to me to dismount the mafoo\nand pony were paid off and I sat down in an inn and was served with an\nexcellent dish of rice and minced beef The inn was crowded and open to\nthe street Despite my Chinese dress anyone could see that I was a\nforeigner but I was not far enough away from Chungking to excite much\ncuriosity The other diners treated me with every courtesy they offered\nme of their dishes and addressed me in Chinesea compliment which I\nrepaid by thanking them blandly in English\n\nNow I went on on foot though I had difficulty in keeping pace with my\nmen Behind the village we climbed a very steep hill by interminable\nsteps and passed under an archway at the summit Descending the hill\nmy cook engaged in a controversy with a thin lad whom he had hired to\ncarry his load a stage The dispute waxed warm and while they stopped\nto argue it out at leisure I went on My cook engaged through the kind\noffices of the Inland Mission was a man of strong convictions and in\nthe last I saw of the dispute he was pulling the unfortunate coolie\ndownhill by the pigtail When he overtook me he was alone and smiling\ncheerfully well satisfied with himself for having settled _that_ little\ndispute The road became more level and we got over the ground quickly\n\nLate in the evening I was led into a crowded inn in a large village\nwhere we were to stay the night We had come twentyseven miles and had\nbegun well I was shown into a room with three strawcovered wooden\nbedsteads a rough table lit by a lighted taper in a saucer of oil a\nrough seat and the naked earth floor Hot water was brought me to wash\nwith and tea to drink and my man prepared me an excellent supper My\nbaggage was in the corner it consisted of two light bamboo boxes with\nChinese padlocks a bamboo hamper and a roll of bedding covered with\noilcloth An oilcloth is indispensable to the traveller in China for\nplaced next the straw on a Chinese bed it is impassable to bugs And\nduring all my journey in China I was never disturbed in my sleep by this\nunpleasant pest Bugs in China are sufficiently numerous but their\nnumbers cannot be compared with the gregarious hosts that disturb the\ntraveller in Spain\n\nMy last night in Spain was spent in Cadiz the most charming city in\nthe peninsula I had lost the last boat off to the steamer on which I\nwas a passenger it was late at night and I knew of no inn near the\nlanding At midnight as I was walking in the Plaza called after that\nrevered monarch Queen Isabel II I was spoken to at the door of a\nfonda and asked if I wanted a bedroom It was the taberna La\nValenciana I was delighted it was the very thing I was looking for I\nsaid The innkeeper had just one room unoccupied and he showed me\nupstairs into a plain homely apartment which I was pleased to engage\nfor the night _Que usted descanse bien_ may you sleep well said\nthe landlord and left me Keeping the candle burning I tumbled into\nbed for I was very tired but jumped out almost immediately despite my\nfatigue I turned down the clothes and saw the bugs gathering in the\ncentre from all parts of the bed I collected a dozen or two and put\nthem in a basin of water and dressing myself went out on the landing\nand called the landlord\n\nHe came up yawning\n\nSir he said do you wish anything\n\nNothing but it is impossible absolutely impossible for me to sleep\nin that bed\n\nBut why senor\n\nBecause it is full of bugs\n\nOh no sir that cannot be that cannot be there is not a bug in the\nhouse\n\nBut I have seen them\n\nYou must be mistaken it is impossible that there can be a bug in the\nhouse\n\nBut I have caught some\n\nIt makes twenty years that I live in this house and never have I seen\nsuch a thing\n\nPardon me but will you do me the favour to look at this basin\n\nSir you are right you are completely right it is the weather _every\nbed in Cadiz is now full of them_\n\nIn the morning and every morning we were away at daylight and walked\nsome miles before breakfast All the way to Suifu the road is a paved\ncauseway 3 feet 6 inches to 6 feet wide laid down with dressed flags\nof stone and here at least it cannot be alleged as the Chinese\nproverb would have it that their roads are good for ten years and bad\nfor ten hundred There are of course no fences the main road picks\nits way through the cultivated fields no traveller ever thinks of\ntrespassing from the roadway nor did I ever see any question of\ntrespass between neighbours In this lawabiding country the peasantry\nconspicuously follow the Confucian maxim taught in China four hundred\nyears before Christ Do not unto others what you would not have others\ndo unto you Every rood of ground is under tillage\n\nHills are everywhere terraced like the seats of an amphitheatre each\nterrace being irrigated from the one below it by a small stream of\nwater drawn up an inclined plain by a continuous chain bucket worked\nwith a windlass by either hand or foot The poppy is everywhere abundant\nand well tended there are fields of winter wheat and pinkflowered\nbeans and beautiful patches of golden rapeseed Dotted over the\nlandscape are pretty Szechuen farmhouses in groves of trees Splendid\nbanyan trees give grateful shelter to the traveller Of this country it\ncould be written as a Chinese traveller wrote of England their fertile\nhills adorned with the richest luxuriance resemble in the outline of\ntheir summits the arched eyebrows of a fair woman\n\nThe country is well populated and a continuous stream of people is\nmoving along the road Grand memorial arches span the roadway many of\nthem notable efforts of monumental skill with columns and architraves\ncarved with elephants and deer and flowers and peacocks and the\nImperial seventailed dragon of China Chinese art is seen at its best\nin this rich province\n\nIllustration CULTIVATION IN TERRACES In the foreground the poppy in\nbloom\n\nIllustration SCENE IN SZECHUEN\n\nI lived of course in the common Chinese inn ate Chinese food and was\neverywhere treated with courtesy and good nature but at first I found\nit trying to be such an object of curiosity to have to do all things in\nunsecluded publicity to have to push my way through streets thronged by\nthe curious to see the foreigner My meals I ate in the presence of the\nstreet before gaping crowds When they came too close I told them\npolitely in English to keep back a little and they did so if I\nillustrated my words by gesture When I scratched my head and they saw\nthe spurious pigtail they smiled when I flicked the dust off the table\nwith my pigtail they laughed hilariously\n\nThe wayside inns are usually at the side of an arcade of grass and\nbamboo stretched above the main road Two or three ponies are usually\nwaiting here for hire and expectant coolies are eager to offer their\nservices In engaging a pony you make an offer casually as if you had\nno desire in the world of its being accepted and then walk on as if you\nhad no intention whatever of riding for the next month The mafoo\ndemands more but will come down you stick to your offer though\nprepared to increase it so demand and offer you exchange with the mafoo\ntill the width of the village is between you and your voices are almost\nout of hearing when you come to terms\n\nSuppose I wanted a chair to give me a rest for a few milesit was\nusually slung under the raftersLaokwang my cook unobserved by anyone\nbut me pointed to it with his thumb inquiringly I nodded assent and\napparently nothing more happened and the conversation of which I was\nquite ignorant continued We left together on foot my man still\nmaintaining a crescendo conversation with the inn people till well away\nWhen almost out of hearing he called out something and an answer came\nfaintly back from the distance It was his ultimatum as regards price\nand its acceptancethey had been bargaining all the time My man\nmotioned to me to wait said the one word _chiaodza_ sedan chair and\nin a few moments the chair of bamboo and wicker came rapidly down the\nroad carried by two bearers They put down the chair before me and bowed\nto me I took my seat and was borne easily and pleasantly along at four\nmiles an hour at a charge of less than one penny a mile\n\nMy men received nearly 400 cash a day each but from time to time they\nsweated their contract to unemployed coolies and had their loads carried\nfor so little as sixty cash one penny halfpenny for twothirds of a\ndays journey\n\nAt nightfall we always reached some large village or town where my cook\nselected the best inn for my resting place the best inn in such cases\nbeing usually the one which promised him the largest squeeze All the\ntowns through which the road passes swarm with inns for there is an\nimmense floating population to provide for Competition is keen Touts\nstand at the doorway of every inn who excitedly waylay the traveller\nand cry the merits of their houses At the counter inside the entrance\npiles of pukais the warm Chinese bedding are stacked for hirefew of\nthe travellers carry their own bedding The inns are sufficiently\ncomfortable The bedrooms are in one or two stories and are arranged\nround one or more or a succession of courts The cheapness is to be\ncommended For supper bed and light tea during the night and tea\nbefore starting in the morning and various little comforts such as hot\nwater for washing the total charge for the six nights of my journey\nfrom Chungking to Suifu was 840 cash _1s 9d_\n\nRice was my staple article of diet eggs fowls and vegetables were\nalso abundant and cheap but I avoided pork which is the flesh\nuniversally eaten throughout China by all but the Mohammedans and\nvegetarians In case of emergency I had a few tins of foreign stores\nwith me I made it a point never to drink waterI drank tea No\nChinaman ever drinks anything cold Every half hour or hour he can reach\nan inn or teahouse where tea can be infused for him in a few minutes\nThe price of a bowl of tea with a pinch of tealeaves filled and\nrefilled with hot water _ad lib_ is two cashequal to the twentieth\npart of one penny Pork has its weight largely added to by being\ninjected with water the point of the syringe being passed into a large\nvein this is usually described as the Chinese method of watering\nstock\n\nOn the third day we were at Yuenchuan sixtythree miles from Chungking\nOn the 5th we passed through Luchow one of the richest and most\npopulous cities on the Upper Yangtse and at noon next day we again\nreached the Yangtse at the Temple of the Goddess of Mercy two miles\ndown the river from the large town of Lanchihsien According to my\ninterpretation of the gesticulations of Laokwang we were then forty\nmiles from Suifu and a beautiful sunny afternoon before us in which to\neasily cover one half the distance But I must reckon with my guide He\nwished to remain here I wished to go on but as I could not understand\nhis Chinese explanation nor advance any protest except in English of\nwhich he was innocent I could only look aggrieved and make a virtue of\na necessity He did however convey to me his solemn assurance that\ntomorrow _ming tien_ he would conduct me into Suifu before sunset An\nelderly Chinaman who had given us the advantage of his company at\nvarious inns during the last three days here entered into the\nconversation produced his watch and with his hand over his heart\nwhich in a Chinaman is in the centre of the breastbone added his\nsacred asseveration to my guides So I stayed We were quite a friendly\nparty travelling together\n\nIn the middle of the night a light was flashed into our room and a voice\npealed out an alarm that awoke even my two Chinese who always\nobligingly slept in the same room with me I had protested against their\ndoing so but they mistook my expostulation for approbation We rose at\nonce and came down the steep bank to a boat that was lying stern to\nshore showing a light I was charmed to get such an early start and\nconstrued the indications into a ferry boat to take me across the river\nwhence we would go by a short route into Suifu The boat was loaded with\nsugar and had a crew of two men and three boys There was an awning over\nthe cargo but most of the space under it was already occupied by twelve\namiable Chinese among whom were six promiscuous friends who had kept\nwith us for several stages and had I imagine derived some pecuniary\nadvantages from my company Yet this was not a ferry boat but a\npassenger boat engaged especially for me to carry me to Suifu before\nnightfall The Chinese passengers had courteously projected their\ncompanionship upon the inarticulate stranger An elderly gentleman with\nhuge goggles and long nails whose fingers were stained with opium was\nthe pacificator of the party and calmed the frequent wranglings in\nwhich the other eighteen Chinese engaged with much earnestness\n\nWell this boata leaky heavy old tub that had to be tracked nearly\nall the waycarried me the forty miles to Suifu within contract time\nThe boatmen on board worked sixteen hours without any rest except at two\nhasty meals the frayed towrope never parted at any rapid and only once\ndid our boat get entangled with any other Towards sundown we were\nabreast of the fine pagoda of Suifu and a little later were at the\nlanding The city is on a high level shelf of land with high hills\nbehind it It lies in the angle of bifurcation formed by the Yangtse\nriver here known as the River of Golden Sand going west and the\nMin or Chentu river going north to Chentu the capital city of the\nprovince I landed below the southern wall and said goodbye to my\ncompanions Climbing up the bank into the city I passed by a busy\nthoroughfare to the pretty home of the Inland Mission where I received\na kind welcome from the gentleman and lady who conduct the mission and\na charming English girl also in the mission who lives with them\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VI\n\nTHE CITY OF SUIFUTHE CHINA INLAND MISSION WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS\nABOUT MISSIONARIES IN CHINA\n\n\nAt Suifu I rested a day in order to engage new coolies to go with me to\nChaotong in Yunnan Province distant 290 miles Neither of my two\nChungking men would reengage to go further Yet in Chungking Laokwang\nthe cook had declared that he was prepared to go with me all the way to\nTalifu But now he feared the loneliness of the road to Chaotong The\nway he said was mountainous and little trodden and robbers would see\nthe smallness of our party and come down and stab us I was then glad\nthat I had not paid him the retaining fee he had asked in Chungking to\ntake me to Tali\n\nI called upon the famous Catholic missionaries the Provicaire Moutot\nand Pere Beraud saw the more important sights and visited some\nnewlyarrived missionaries of the American Board of Missions Four of\nthe Americans were living together I called with the Inland missionary\nat a time when they were at dinner We were shown into the drawingroom\nwhere the most conspicuous ornament was a painted scroll with a well\nexecuted drawing of the poppy in flower a circumstance which would\nconfirm the belief of the Chinese who saw it that the poppy is held in\nveneration by foreigners While we waited we heard the noise of dinner\ngradually cease and then the door opened and one of the single ladies\nentered She was fierce to look at tall as a grenadier with a stride\nlike a camel she was picking her teeth with a hairpin She courteously\nexpressed her regret that she could not invite us to dinner Waal now\nshe said looking at us from under her spectacles ahm real sorry I\ncaant ask you to have somethin to eat but weve just finished and I\nguess there aint nothin left\n\nFourteen American missionaries were lately imported into Suifu in one\nshipment Most of them are from Chicago One of their earliest efforts\nwill be to translate into Chinese Mr Steads If Christ came to\nChicago in order the better to demonstrate to the Chinese the lofty\nstandard of morality virtue probity and honour attained by the\nChristian community that sent them to China to enlighten the poor\nbenighted heathen in this land of darkness\n\nSzechuen is a Catholic stronghold There are nominally one hundred\nthousand Catholics in the province representing the labours of many\nFrench missionaries for a period of rather more than two hundred years\nActually however there are only sixty thousand Chinese in the province\nwho could be called Catholics To use the words of the Provicaire the\nChinese are _trop materialistes_ to become Christian and as they are\nall liars and robbers the faith is not easily propagated amongst\nthem Rarely have I met two more charming men than these brave\nmissionaries French they told me I speak with the _vrai accent\nparisien_ a compliment which I have no doubt is true though it\nconflicts with my experience in Paris where most of the true Parisians\nto whom I spoke in their own language gave me the same look of\nintelligence that I observe in the Chinaman when I address him in\nEnglish Pere Moutot has been twentythree years in Chinasix years at\nthe sacred Mount Omi and seventeen years in Suifu Pere Beraud has been\ntwentythree years in Suifu They both speak Chinese to perfection and\nhave been coworkers with the bishop in the production of a\nMandarinFrench dictionary just published at Sicawei they dress as\nChinese and live as Chinese in handsome mission premises built in\nChinese style There is a pretty chapel in the compound with scrolls and\nmemorial tablets presented by Chinese Catholics a school for boys\nattended by fifty ragamuffins a nunnery and girls school and a fit\nresidence for the venerable bishop When showing me the chapel the\nProvicaire told me of the visit of one of Our Lords Apostles to Suifu\nHe seemed to have no doubt himself of the truth of the story Tradition\nsays that St Thomas came to China and if further proof were wanting\nthere is the black image of Tamo worshipped to this day in many of the\ntemples of Szechuen Scholars however identify this image and its\nmarked Hindoo features with that of the Buddhist evangelist Tamo who is\nknown to have visited China in the sixth century\n\nIn Suifu there is a branch of the China Inland Mission under an\nenthusiastic young missionary who was formerly a French polisher in\nHereford He is helped by an amiable wife and by a charming English girl\nscarcely out of her teens The missionarys work has he tells me been\nabundantly blessedhe has baptised six converts in the last three\nyears A fine type of man is this missionary brave and selfreliant\nsympathetic and selfdenying hopeful and selfsatisfied His views as a\nmissionary are welldefined I give them in his own wordsThose\nChinese who have never heard the Gospel will be judged by the Almighty\nas He thinks fita contention which does not admit of disputebut\nthose Chinese who have heard the Christian doctrine and still steel\ntheir hearts against the Holy Ghost will assuredly go to hell there is\nno help for them they can believe and they wont had they believed\ntheir reward would be eternal they refuse to believe and their\npunishment will be eternal But the destruction that awaits the Chinese\nmust be pointed out to them with becoming gentleness in accordance with\nthe teaching of the Rev S F Woodin of the American Baptist Mission\nFoochow who saysThere are occasions when we must speak that awful\nword hell but this should always be done in a spirit of earnest\nlove _Records_ of the Shanghai Missionary Conference 1877 p 91\nIt was a curious study to observe the equanimity with which this\ngoodnatured man contemplates the work he has done in China when to\nobtain six dubious conversions he has on his own confession sent some\nthousands of unoffending Chinese _en enfer bouillir eternellement_\n\nBut if the teaching of this good missionary is unwelcome to the\nChinese and there are hundreds in China who teach as he does how\ninfinitely more distasteful must be the teaching of both the Founder and\nthe Secretary of the Mission which sent him to China\n\nThey are Gods lost ones who are in China says Mr C L Morgan\neditor of _The Christian_ and God cares for them and yearns over\nthem _Chinas Millions_ 1879 p 94 The millions of Chinese\nwho have never heard the Gospel says Mr B Broomhall secretary of\nthe China Inland Mission and editor of _Chinas Millions_ where are\nthey going what is to be their future What is to be their condition\nbeyond the grave Oh tremendous question It is an awful thing to\ncontemplatebut they perish that is what God says Evangelisation\nof the World p 70 The heathen are all guilty in Gods eyes as\nguilty they perish _Id_ 101 Do we believe that these millions\nare without hope in the next world We turn the leaves of Gods Word in\nvain for there we find no hope not only that but positive words to\nthe contrary Yes we believe it _Id_ p 199\n\nThe Rev Dr Hudson Taylor the distinguished Founder of the Mission\ncertainly believes it and has frequently stated his belief in public\nAncestral worship is the keystone of the religion of the Chinese the\nkeystone also of Chinas social fabric And the worship springs says\nthe Rev W A P Martin DD LLD of the Tung Wen College Peking\nfrom some of the best principles of human nature The first conception\nof a life beyond the grave was it is thought suggested by a desire to\ncommune with deceased parents The Worship of Ancestorsa plea for\ntoleration But Dr Hudson Taylor condemned bitterly this plea for\ntoleration Ancestral worship he said it was at the Shanghai\nMissionary Conference of May 1890 Ancestral worship is idolatry from\nbeginning to end the whole of it and everything connected with it\nChinas religion is idolatry the Chinese are universally idolatrous\nand the fate that befalls idolaters is carefully pointed out by Dr\nTaylorTheir part is in the lake of fire\n\nThese millions of China I quote again from Dr Taylor These\nmillions of China who have never heard the Gospel are unsaved Oh\nmy dear friends may I say one word about that condition The Bible says\nof the heathen that they are without hope will you say there is good\nhope for them of whom the Word of God says they are without hope\nwithout God in the world Missionary Conference of 1888 _Records_\ni 176\n\nThere are those who know more about the state of the heathen than did\nthe Apostle Paul who wrote under the inspiration of the Holy Ghost\nThey that sin without law perish without law nay there are those\nwho are not afraid to contradict the revelation of Jesus Christ which\nGod gave unto Him to shew unto His servants in which He solemnly\naffirms that idolators and all liars their part shall be in the lake\nthat burneth with fire and brimstone Such being the state of the\nunsaved of China do not their urgent needs claim from us that with\n_agonising eagerness_ we should hasten to proclaim everywhere the\nmessage through which alone deliverance can be found _Ut supra_ ii\n31\n\nLook then at the enormous difficulty which the six hundred and eleven\nmissionaries of the China Inland Mission raise up against themselves\nthe majority of whom are presumably in agreement with the teaching of\ntheir director Dr Hudson Taylor They tell the Chinese inquirer that\nhis unconverted father who never heard the Gospel has like Confucius\nperished eternally But the chief of all virtues in China is filial\npiety the strongest emotion that can move the heart of a Chinaman is\nthe supreme desire to follow in the footsteps of his father Conversion\nwith him means not only eternal separation from the father who gave him\nlife but the immediate liberation of his ancestors to a life of\nbeggary to inflict sickness and all manner of evil on the\nneighbourhood\n\nI believe that it is now universally recognised that the most difficult\nof all missionary fieldsincomparably the most difficultis China\nDifficulties assail the missionary at every step and every honest man\nwhether his views be broad or high or low must sympathise with the\nearnest efforts the missionaries are making for the good and advancement\nof the Chinese\n\nLook for example at the difficulty there is in telling a Chinese who\nhas been taught to regard the love of his parents as his chief duty as\nhis forefathers have been taught for hundreds of generations before\nhimthe difficulty there is in explaining to him in his own language\nthe words of Christ If any man come to Me and hate not his father he\ncannot be My disciple For I am come to set a man at variance against\nhis father\n\nIn the patriarchal system of government which prevails in China the\nmost awful crime that a son can commit is to kill his parent either\nfather or mother And this is said to be though the description is no\ndoubt abundantly exaggerated the punishment of his crime He is put to\ndeath by the _Ling chi_ or degrading and slow process and his\nyounger brothers are beheaded his house is razed to the ground and the\nearth under it dug up several feet deep his neighbours are severely\npunished his principal teacher is decapitated the district magistrate\nis deprived of his office and the higher officials of the province\ndegraded three degrees in rank\n\nSuch is the enormity of the crime of parricide in China yet it is to\nthe Chinese who approves of the severity of this punishment that the\nmissionary has to preach And the children shall rise up against their\nparents and cause them to be put to death\n\nThe China Inland Mission as a body of courageous workers brave\ntravellers unselfish and kindly men endowed with every manly virtue\nthat can command our admiration is worthy of all the praise that can\nbe bestowed on it Most of its members are men who have been saved after\nreaching maturity and delicatelynurtured emotional girls with\nheightened religious feelings\n\nToo often entirely ignorant of the history of China a mighty nation\nwhich has witnessed the rise to glory and the decay of Egypt Assyria\nBabylonia Persia Greece and Rome and still remains the only monument\nof ages long bygone of its manners and polity customs and religions\nand of the extraordinary difficulties in the acquirement of its\nlanguage too often forgetful that the Chinese are a people whose\nprepossessions and prejudices and cherished judgments are the growth of\nmillenniums they come to China hoping that miraculous assistance will\naid them in their exposition of the Christian doctrine in language\nwhich is too often impenetrable darkness to its hearers\n\nThey are Gods lost ones who are in China and God cares for them and\nyearns over them and men who were in England respectable artisans\nwith an imperfect hold of their own language come to China in response\nto the wail of the dying millions to stay this awful ruin of souls\nwho at the rate of 33000 a day are perishing without hope having\nsinned without law\n\nSix months after their arrival they write to _Chinas Millions_ Now\nfor the news Glorious news this time Our services crowded Such bright\nintelligent faces So eager to hear the good news They seemed to drink\nin every word and to listen as if they were afraid that a word might be\nlost Five years later they write The first convert in Siao Wong Miao\nwas a young man named Sengleping a matseller He was very earnest in\nhis efforts to spread the Gospel but about the beginning of the year\nhe became insane The poor man lost his reason but not his piety\n_Chinas Millions_ iv 5 95 and 143\n\nA young English girl at this mission who has been more than a year in\nChina tells me that she has never felt the Lord so near her as she has\nsince she came to China nor ever realised so entirely His abundant\ngoodness Poor thing it made me sad to talk to her In England she\nlived in a bright and happy home with brothers and sisters in a\ncharming climate She was always well and full of life and vigour\nsurrounded by all that can make life worth living In China she is never\nwell she is almost forgetting what is the sensation of health she is\nanaemic and apprehensive she has nervous headaches and neuralgia she\ncan have no pleasure no amusement whatever her only relaxation is\ntaking her temperature her only diversion a prayer meeting She is\ncooped up in a Chinese house in the unchanging society of a married\ncouplethe only exercise she can permit herself is a prisonlike walk\nalong the top of the city at the back of the mission Her lover a\nrefined English gentleman who is also in the mission lives a weeks\njourney away in Chungking a depressing feverstricken city where the\nsun is never seen from November to June and blazes with unendurable\nfierceness from July to October In England he was full of strength and\nvigour fond of boating and a good lawntennis player In China he is\nalways ill anaemic wasted and dyspeptic constantly subject to low\nforms of fever and destitute of appetite But more agonising than his\nbad health is the horrible reality of the unavailing sacrifice he is\nmakingno converts but outcasts subsidised to forsake their family\naltars no reward but the ultimate one which his noble selfdevotion\nis laying up for himself in Heaven No man with a healthy brain can\ndiscern Blessing in the work of these two missionaries nor be blind\nto the fact that it is the reverse of worshipful to return effusive\nthanks to the great Almighty who yearns over the Chinese His lost\nones for vouchsafing the abundant mercies of a harvest of six\ndoubtful converts as the work of three missionaries for three years\n\nThere are 180000 people in Suifu and as is the case with Chinese\ncities a larger area than that under habitation is occupied by the\npublic graveyard outside the city which covers the hill slopes for\nmiles and miles The number of opiumsmokers is so large that the\nquestion is not who does smoke opium but who doesnt In the mission\nstreet alone besides the Inland Mission the Buddhist Temple\nMohammedan Mosque and Roman Catholic Mission there are eight\nopiumhouses Every bank silk shop and hong of any pretension\nwhatever throughout the city has its opiumroom with the lamp always\nlit ready for the guest Opiumrooms are as common as smoking rooms are\nwith us A whiff of opium rather than a nip of whisky is the preliminary\nto business in Western China\n\nIllustration OPIUMSMOKING\n\nAn immensely rich city is Suifu with every advantage of position on a\ngreat waterway in the heart of a district rich in coal and minerals and\ninexhaustible subterranean reservoirs of brine Silks and furs and\nsilverwork medicines opium and whitewax are the chief articles of\nexport and as fortunately for us Western China can grow but little\ncotton the most important imports are Manchester goods\n\nSzechuen is by far the richest province of the eighteen that constitute\nthe Middle Kingdom Its present Viceroy Liu is a native of Anhwei he\nis therefore a countryman of Li Hung Chang to whom he is related by\nmarriage his daughter having married Li Hung Changs nephew Its\nprovincial Treasurer is believed to occupy the richest post held by any\nofficial in the empire It is worth noticing that the present provincial\nTreasurer Kung Chaoyuan has just been made 1894 Minister\nPlenipotentiary to Great Britain France Italy Belgium Sweden and\nNorway and one can well believe how intense was his chagrin when he\nreceived this appointment from the Imperial Supreme compelling him as\nit did to forsake the tombs of his ancestorsto leave China for\nEngland on a fixed salary and vacate the most coveted post in the\nempire a post where the opportunities of personal enrichment are simply\nillimitable\n\nIn Suifu there are two magistrates both with important yamens The Fu\nmagistrate is the Father of the City the Hsien magistrate is the\nMother of the City and the Mother of the City largely favours the\nexport opium trade When Protestant missionaries first came to the city\nin 1888 and 1889 there was little friendliness shown to them Folk would\ncry after the missionary There goes the foreigner that eats children\nand children would be hurriedly hidden as if from fear These taunts\nwere at first disregarded But there came a time when living children\nwere brought to the mission for sale as food whereupon the mission made\nformal complaint in the yamen and the Fu at once issued a proclamation\nchecking the absurd tales about the foreigners and ordering the\ncitizens under many pains and penalties to treat the foreigners with\nrespect There has been no trouble since and as we walked through the\ncrowded streets I could see nothing but friendly indifference\nReference to this and other sorrows is made in the missionarys report\nto _Chinas Millions_ November 1893\n\nSoon after this trial had passed away the rumours of baby eating\nstill more painful internal sorrow arose One of the members who had\nbeen baptised three years before and had been useful as a preacher of\nthe Gospel fell into grievous sin and had to be excluded from Church\nfellowship Then a little later a very promising inquirer who had been\ncured of opiumsmoking and appeared to be growing in grace fell again\nunder its power While still under a cloud he was suddenly removed\nduring the cholera visitation\n\nThe China Inland Mission has pleasant quarters close under the city\nwall Their pretty chapel opens into the street and displays\nprominently the proclamation of the Emperor concerning the treaty rights\nof foreign missionaries Seven children all of whom are girls are\nboarded on the premises and are being brought up as Christians They\nare pretty bright children the eldest a girl of fourteen\nparticularly so All are largefooted and they are to be married to\nChristian converts When this fact becomes known it is hoped that more\nyoung Chinamen than at present may be emulous to be converted All seven\nare foundlings from Chungking where wrapped in brown paper they were\nat different times dropped over the wall into the Mission compound They\nhave been carefully reared by the Mission\n\nAt the boys school fifty smart boys all heathens were at their\nlessons They were learning different subjects and were teaching their\nears the tones by reading at the top of their voices The noise was\nawful None but a Chinese boy could study in such a din In China when\nthe lesson is finished the class is silent noise therefore is the\nindication of work in a Chinese schoolnot silence\n\nThe schoolmaster was a raggedlooking loafer dressed in grey He was\nin mourning and had been unshaven for fortytwo days in consequence of\nthe death of his father This was an important day of mourning because\non this day the fortysecond after his death his dead father became\nfor the first time aware of his own decease A week later on the\nfortyninth day the funeral rites would cease\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VII\n\nSUIFU TO CHAOTONG WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE PROVINCE OF YUNNANCHINESE\nPORTERS POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS AND BANKS\n\n\nI engaged three new men in Suifu who undertook to take me to Chaotong\n290 miles in thirteen days special inducement being held out to them\nin the shape of a reward of one shilling each to do the journey in\neleven days Their pay was to be seven shillings and threepence each\napart from the bonus and of course they had to find themselves They\nbrought me from the cooliehong where they were engaged an agreement\nsigned by the hongmaster which was to be returned to them in Chaotong\nand remitted to their master as a receipt for my safe delivery\n\nEvery condition detailed in the agreement they faithfully carried out\nand they took me to Chaotong in ten days and a half though the ordinary\ntime is fourteen days\n\nOne of the three was a convert one of the six surviving converts made\nby the aggregate Inland Mission of Suifu in six years He was an\nexcellent good fellow rather dull of wits but a credit to the Mission\nTo him was intrusted the paying away of my moneyhe carried no load\nWhen he wanted money he was to show me his empty hands and say _Muta\ntsien muta tsien_ I have no money I have no money\n\nI knew that perfect confidence could be placed in the convert apart\nfrom the reason of his conversion because he had a father living in\nSuifu Were he to rob me or do me a wrong and run away we could arrest\nhis father and have him detained in the yamen prison till his son\nreturned Nothing in China gives one greater protection against fraud\nand injury than the law which holds a father responsible for the\nwrongdoing of his son or where there is no father an elder son\nculpable for the misdeed of the younger\n\nOn the morning of March 22nd we started for Chaotong in Yunnan province\nThe Inland Missionary and a Brother from the American Baptist Mission\nkindly came with me for the first thirteen miles My route lay west on\nthe north bank of the Yangtse but later after crossing the Yangtse\nwould be nearly south to Chaotong\n\nShortly before leaving the _chairen_ or yamenrunnerthe policeman\nthat is to saysent by the Magistrate to shadow me to Takwanhsien\ncalled at the Mission to request that the interpreter would kindly\nremind the traveller who did not speak Chinese that it was customary\nto give winemoney to the chairen at the end of the journey The request\nwas reasonable All the way from Chungking I had been accompanied by\nyamenrunners without knowing it The chairen is sent partly for the\nprotection of the traveller but mainly for the protection of the\nMagistrate for should a traveller provided with a passport receive any\ninjury the Magistrate of the district would be liable to degradation\nIt was arranged therefore with the convert that on our arrival in\nTakwanhsien I was to give the chairen if satisfied with his\nservices 200 cash five pence but if he said _gowshun gowshun_\na little more a little more with sufficient persistence I was to\nincrease the reward gradually to sevenpence halfpenny This was to be\nthe limit and the chairen I was assured would consider this a\ngenerous return for accompanying me 227 miles over one of the most\nmountainous roads in China\n\nIt was a pleasant walk along the riverbank in the fertile alluvial\nwhere the poppy in white flower and tobacco were growing and where\nfields of yellow rapeseed alternated with beds of rushesthe rapeseed\nyielding the oil and the rushes the rushlights of Chinese lamps Flocks\nof wild geese were within easy shot on the sandbanksthe peaceful\ngeese whose virtues are extolled by every Chinaman They live in\npairs and if one dies its mate will be for ever faithful to its\nmemory Such virtue is worthy of being recorded on the arch which here\nspans the roadway whose Chinese characters _Shen_ holy _Chi_\nwill show that it was erected by the holy decree of the Emperor to\nperpetuate the memory of some widow who never remarried\n\nAs we walked along the missionary gave instructions to my men In my\ngrace I had given them very light loads hurry and they would be richly\nrewardedone shilling extra for doing fourteen stages in eleven days\n\nAt an inn under the branches of a banyan tree we sat down and had a\ncup of tea While we waited a hawker came and sat near us He was\npeddling live cats In one of his two baskets was a cat that bore a\ncurious resemblance to a tortoiseshell tabby that till a week ago had\nbeen a pet in the Inland Mission It had disappeared mysteriously it\nhad died the Chinese servant said and here it was reincarnated\n\nAt the market town the missionaries left me to go on alone with my three\nmen I had seventeen miles still to go before night\n\nIt was midday and the sun was hot so a chair was arranged for to take\nme the seventeen miles to Anpien It was to cost 320 cash eightpence\nbut just before leaving the grasping coolies refused to carry me for\nless than 340 cash Walk on said the missionary and teach them a\nChristian lesson so I walked seventeen miles in the sun to rebuke them\nfor their avarice and save one halfpenny In the evening I am afraid\nthat I was hardly in the frame of mind requisite for conducting an\nevangelical meeting\n\nAnpien is a considerable town It is on the Yangtse River just below\nwhere it bifurcates into two rivers one of which goes northwest the\nother southwest Streets of temporary houses are built down by the\nriver they form the winter suburb and disappear in the summer when the\nriver rises in consequence of the melting of the snows in its mountain\nsources At an excellent inn with a noisy restaurant on the first\nfloor good accommodation was given me No sooner was I seated than a\nchairen came from the yamen to ask for my Chinese visiting card but he\ndid not ask for my passport though I had brought with me twentyfive\ncopies besides the original\n\nAt daybreak a chair was ready and I was carried to the River where a\nferry boat was in waiting to take us across below the junction Then we\nstarted on our journey towards the south along the right bank of the\nLaowatan branch of the Yangtse The road was a tracking path cut into\nthe face of the cliff it was narrow steep winding and slippery\nThere was only just room for the chair to pass and at the sudden turns\nit had often to be canted to one side to permit of its passage We were\nhigh above the river in the mountain gorges The comfort of the\ntraveller in a chair along this road depends entirely upon the sureness\nof foot of his two bearersa false step and chair and traveller would\ntumble down the cliff into the foaming river below Deep and narrow was\nthe mountain river and it roared like a cataract yet down the passage\na long narrow junk swarming with passengers was racing its oars and\nbowsweep worked by a score of sailors singing in chorus The boat\nappeared passed down the reach and was out of sight in a moment a\nsingle error the slightest confusion and it would have been smashed in\nfragments on the rocks and the river strewn with corpses\n\nWe did a good stage before breakfast Every few li where the steepness\nof the valley side permits it there are strawthatched bamboo and\nplaster inns Here rice is kept in wooden bins all ready steaming hot\nfor the use of travellers good tea is brewed in a few minutes the\ntables and chopsticks are sufficiently clean\n\nLeaving the river we crossed over the mountains by a short cut to the\nriver again and at a wayside inn much frequented by Chinese the chair\nstage finished I wished to do some writing and sat down at one of the\ntables A crowd gathered round me and were much interested One elderly\nChinese with huge glasses a wag in his own way seeing that I did not\nspeak Chinese thought to make me understand and divert the crowd by the\nloudness of his speech and insisting that I was deaf yelled into my\nears in tones that shook the tympanum I told the foolish fellow in\nEnglish that the less he talked the better I could understand him but\nhe persisted and poked his face almost into mine but withdrew it and\nhobbled off in umbrage when I drew the attention of the bystanders to\nthe absurd capacity of his mouth which was larger than any mules\n\nI must admit that my knowledge of Chinese was very scanty so scanty\nindeed as to be almost nonexistent What few words I knew were rarely\nintelligible but as Mrs General Baynes when staying at Boulogne\nfound Hindostanee to be of great help in speaking French so did I\ndiscover that English was of great assistance to me in conversing in\nChinese Remonstrance was thus made much more effective Whenever I was\nin a difficulty or the crowd too obtrusive I had only to say a few\ngrave sentences in English and I was master of the situation This\nmethod of speaking often reminded me of that employed by a Cornish lady\nof high family whose husband was a colleague of mine in Spain She had\nbeen many years in Andalusia but had never succeeded in mastering\nSpanish At a dinner party given by this lady at which I was present\nshe thus addressed her Spanish servant who did not possess a single\nword of English Bring me she said in an angry aside bring me the\n_cuchillo_ with the blackhandled heft adding as she turned to us and\nthumped her fist on the table while the servant stood still mystified\nD the language I wish I had never learnt it\n\nThe inn where the sedan left me was built over the pathway which was\nhere a narrow track two feet six inches wide Mountain coolies on the\nroad were passing in single file through the inn their backs bending\nunder their huge burdens Pigs and fowls and dogs and a stray cat were\nforaging for crumbs under the table Through the open doorways you saw\nthe paddyfields under water and the terraced hills with every arable\nyard under cultivation The air was hot and enervating The country of\nthe clouds as the Chinese term the province of Szechuen does not\nbelie its name An elderly woman was in charge of the oven and toddled\nabout on her deformed feet as if she were walking on her heels Her\nhusband the innkeeper brought us hot water every few minutes to keep\nour tea basins full _Na kaishui lai_ bring hot water you heard on\nall sides A heap of bedding was in one corner of the room in another\nwere a number of rolls of straw mattresses a hollow joint of bamboo was\nfilled with chopsticks for the common use into another bamboo the\ninnkeeper slipped his takings of copper cash Hanging from the rafters\nwere strings of straw sandals for the poor and hemp sandals for moneyed\nwayfarers like the writer The people who stood round and those seated\nat the tables were friendly and respectful and plied my men with\nquestions concerning their master And I did hope that the convert was\nnot tempted to backslide and swerve from the truth in his answers\n\nMy men were now anxious to push on Over a mountainous country of\nsurpassing beauty I continued my journey on foot to Fanyientsen and\nrested there for the night having done two days journey in one\n\nOn March 24th we were all day toiling over the mountains climbing and\ndescending wooded steeps through groves of pine with an everchanging\nlandscape before us beautiful with running water with cascades and\nwaterfalls tumbling down into the river with magnificent glens and\ngorges and picturesque temples on the mountain tops At night we were\nat the village of Tanto on the river having crossed a few li before\nover the boundary which separates the province of Szechuen from the\nprovince of Yunnan\n\nFrom Tanto the path up the gorges leads across a rocky mountain creek\nin a defile of the mountains In England this creek would be spanned by\na bridge but the poor heathen in China how do they find their way\nacross the stream By a bridge also They have spanned the torrent with\na powerful iron suspension bridge 100 feet long by ten feet broad\nswung between two massive buttresses and approached under handsome\ntemplearchways\n\nMists clothe the mountainsthe air is confined between these walls of\nrock and stone Population is scanty but there is cultivation wherever\npossible Villages sparsely distributed along the mountain path have\nwater trained to them in bamboo conduits from tarns on the hillside\nEach house has its own supply and there is no attempt to provide for\nthe common good Besides other reasons it would interfere with the\ntrade of the watercarriers who all day long are toiling up from the\nriver\n\nThe mountain slope does not permit a greater width of building space\nthan on each side of the one main street And on market days this street\nis almost impassable being thronged with traffickers and blocked with\nstalls and wares Coal is for sale both pure and mixed with clay in\nbriquettes and salt in blocks almost as black as coal and three times\nas heavy and piles of drugsa medley of bones horns roots leaves\nand mineralsand raw cotton and cotton yarn from Wuchang and Bombay\nand finished goods from Manchester At one of the villages there was a\nchair for hire and knowing how difficult was the country I was\nwilling to pay the amount askednamely _7d_ for nearly seven miles\nbut my friend the convert who arranged these things considered that\nbetween the _5d_ he offered and the _7d_ they asked the discrepancy\nwas too great and after some acrimonious bargaining it was decided\nthat I should continue on foot my man indicating to me by gestures in\na most sarcastic way that the _chiaodza_ men had failed to overreach\nhim\n\nIllustration A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN\n\nIllustration LAOWATAN\n\nAt Sengkiping it rained all through the night and I had to sleep under\nmy umbrella because of a solution in the continuity of the roof\nimmediately above my pillow And it rained all the day following but my\nmen eager to earn their reward of one shilling pushed on through the\nslush It was hard work following the slippery path above the river Few\nrivers in the world flow between more majestic banks than these\ntowering as they do a thousand feet above the water Clad with thick\nmountain scrub that has firm foothold the mountains offer but a poor\nharvest to the peasant yet even here high up on the precipitous sides\nof the cliffs ledges that seem inaccessible are sown with wheat or\npeas and if the soil be deep enough with the baneful poppy As we\nplodded on through the mud and rain we overtook a poor lad painfully\nlimping along with the help of a stick He was a bright lad who unbound\nhis leg and showed me a large swelling above the knee He spoke to me\nthough I did not understand him but with sturdy independence did not\nask for alms and when I had seen his leg he bound it up again and\nlimped on Meeting him a little later at an inn where he was sitting at\na table with nothing before him to eat I gave him a handful of cash\nwhich I had put in my pocket for him He thanked me by raising his\nclasped hands and said something I knew not what as I hurried on A\nlittle while afterwards I stopped to have my breakfast when the boy\npassed As soon as he saw me he fell down upon his knees and kotowd\nto me with every mark of the liveliest gratitude I felt touched by the\npoor fellows gratitudehe could not have been more than fifteenand\nmean to think that the benefaction which in his eyes appeared so\ngenerous was little more than one penny There can be no doubt that I\ngained merit by this action for this very afternoon as I was on the\ntrack a large stone the size of a shell from a 50ton gun fell from the\ncrag above me struck the rock within two paces of me and shot past\ninto the river A few feet nearer and it would have blotted out the life\nof one whom the profession could ill spare We camped at Laowatan\n\nA chair with three bearers was waiting for me in the morning so that I\nleft the town of Laowatan in a manner befitting my rank The town had\nrisen to see me leave and I went down the street amid serried ranks of\nspectators We crossed the river by a wonderful suspension bridge 250\nfeet long and 12 feet broad formed of linked bars of wrought iron It\nshows stability strength and delicacy of design and is a remarkable\nwork to have been done by the untutored barbarians of this land of\nnight We ascended the steep incline opposite and passed the likin\nbarrier but at a turn in the road higher still in the mountain a\nwoman emerged from her cottage and blocked our path Nor could the chair\npass till my foremost bearer had reluctantly given her a string of cash\nWith money you can move the gods say the Chinese without it you\ncant move a man\n\nFor miles we mounted upwards We were now in Yunnan south of the\ncloudsin Szechuen we were always under the cloudsthe sun was warm\nthe air dry and crisp Ponies passed us in long droves often there were\neighty ponies in a single drove All were heavily laden with copper and\nlead were nozzled to keep them off the grass and picked their way down\nthe rocky path of steps with the agility and sureness of foot of\nmountain goats Time was beaten for them on musical gongs and the\nechoes rang among the mountains Many were decorated with red flags and\ntufts and with plumes of the Amherst pheasant These were official pack\nanimals which were franked through the likin barriers without\nexamination\n\nThe path rising to the height of the watershed where at a great\nelevation we gain a distant view of water descends by the counterslope\nonce more to the river Laowatan A wonderful ravine a mountain riven\nperpendicularly in twain here gives passage to the river and in full\nview of this we rested at the little town of Taoshakwan with the roar\nof the river hundreds of feet below us Midway up the face of the\nprecipice opposite there is a sight worth seeing a mass of coffin\nboards caught in a fault in the precipice have been lying there for\nuntold generations having been originally carried there by the ancient\nflyingmen who are now extinct\n\nA poor little town is Taoshakwan with a poor little yamen with\npretentious tigers painted on its outflanking wall with a poor little\ntemple and gods in sad disrepair but with an admirable inn with a\ncharming verandah facing a scene of alpine magnificence\n\nWe were entering a district of great poverty At Tchihlipu where we\narrived at midday the next day the houses are poor the people\npovertystricken and illclad the hotel dirty and my room the worst I\nhad yet slept in The road is a wellworn path flagged in places\nuneven and irregular following at varying heights the upward course of\nthe tortuous river The country is bald it is grand but lonely\nvegetation is scanty and houses are few we have left the prosperity of\nSzechuen and are in the midst of the poverty of Yunnan Farmhouses\nthere are at rare intervals amid occasional patches of cultivation\nthere are square whitewashed watch towers in groves of sacred trees\nthere are a few tombstones and an occasional rudely carved god to guard\nthe way There are poor mud and bamboo inns with grass roofs and dirty\ntables set out with half a dozen bowls of tea and with ovens for the\nuse of travellers Food we had now to bring with us and only at the\nlarger towns where the stages terminate could we expect to find food for\nsale The tea is inferior and we had to be content with maize meal\nbean curds rice roasted in sugar and sweet gelatinous cakes made from\nthe waste of maize meal Rice can only be bought in the large towns It\nis not kept in roadside inns ready steaming hot for use as it is in\nSzechuen Rarely there are sweet potatoes there are eggs however in\nabundance one hundred for a shilling 500 cash but the coolies cannot\neat them because of their dearness A large bowl of rice costs four\ncash an egg five cash and the Chinaman strikes a balance in his mind\nand sees more nourishment in one bowl of rice than in three eggs Of\nmeat there is porkpork in plenty and pork only Pigs and dogs are the\nscavengers of China None of the carnivora are more omnivorous than the\nChinese A Chinaman has the most unscrupulous stomach in the world\nsays Meadows he will eat anything from the root to the leaf and from\nthe hide to the entrails He will not even despise the flesh of dog\nthat has died a natural death During the awful famine in Shansi of\n18761879 starving men fought to the death for the bodies of dogs that\nhad fattened on the corpses of their dead countrymen Mutton is\nsometimes for sale in Mohammedan shops and beef also but it must not\nbe imagined that either sheep or ox is killed for its flesh unless on\nthe point of death from starvation or disease And the beef is not from\nthe ox but from the water buffalo Sugar can be bought only in the\nlarger towns salt can be purchased everywhere\n\nBeggars there are in numbers skulking about almost naked with unkempt\nhair and no queue with a small basket for gathering garbage and a staff\nto keep away dogs Only beggars carry sticks in China and it is only\nthe beggars that need beware of dogs To carry a stick in China for\nprotection against dogs is like carrying a red flag to scare away bulls\nDogs in China are lowly organised they are not discriminating animals\nand despite the luxurious splendour of my Chinese dressit cost more\nthan seven shillingsdogs frequently mistook my calling In Szechuen\nas we passed through the towns there was competition among the inns to\nobtain our custom Hotel runners were there to shout to all the world\nthe superior merits of their establishments But here in Yunnan it is\ndifferent There is barely inn accommodation for the road traffic and\nthe innkeepers are either too apathetic or too shamefaced to call the\nattention of the traveller to their poor dirty accommodation houses\n\nIn Szechuen one of the most flourishing of trades is that of the\nmonumental mason and carver in stone Huge monoliths are there cut from\nthe boulders which have been dislodged from the mountains dressed and\nfinished _in situ_ and then removed to the spot where they are to be\nerected The Chinese thus pursue a practice different from that of the\nWesterns who bring the undressed stone from the quarry and carve it in\nthe studio With the Chinese the difficulty is one of transportthe\nfinished work is obviously lighter than the unhewn block In Yunnan up\nto the present I had seen no mason at work for no masonry was needed\nHouses built of stone were falling into ruin and only thatched\nmudplastered bamboo and wood houses were being built in their places\n\nAt Laowatan I told my Christian to hire me a chair for thirty or forty\nli and he did so but the chair instead of carrying me the shorter\ndistance carried me the whole day The following day the chair kept\ncompany with me and as I had not ordered it I naturally walked but\nthe third day also the chair haunted me and then I discovered that my\nadmirable guide had engaged the chair not for thirty or forty li as I\nhad instructed him in my best Chinese but for three hundred and sixty\nli for four days stages of ninety li each He had made the agreement\nout of consideration for me and his own pocket he had made an\nagreement which gave him wider scope for a little private arrangement of\nhis own with the chaircoolies For two days I was paying fifteen cash a\nli for a chair and walking alongside of it charmed by the good humour of\nthe coolies and unaware that they were laughing in their sleeves at my\nfolly Trifling mistakes like this are inevitable to one who travels in\nChina without an interpreter\n\nMy two coolies were capital fellows full of good humour cheerful and\nuntiring The elder was disposed to be argumentative with his\ncountrymen but he could not quarrel Nature had given him an\nuncontrollable stutter and if he tried to speak quickly spasm seized\nhis tongue and he had to break into a laugh Few men in China I think\ncould be more curiously constructed than this coolie He was all neck\nhis chin was simply an upward prolongation of his neck like a second\nAdams apple Both were very pleasant companions They were naturally\nin good humour for they were well paid and their loads as loads are\nin China were almost insignificant I had only asked them to carry\nsixtyseven pounds each\n\nWe who live amid the advantages of Western civilisation can hardly\nrealise how enormous are the weights borne by those human beasts of\nburthen our brothers in China The common fasttravelling coolie of\nSzechuen contracts to carry eighty catties 107lbs forty miles a day\nover difficult country But the weightcarrying coolie travelling\nshorter distances carries far heavier loads than that There are\nporters says Du Halde who will carry 160 of our pounds ten leagues a\nday The coolies engaged in carrying the compressed cakes of Szechuen\ntea into Thibet travel over mountain passes 7000 feet above their\nstarting place yet there are those among them says Von Richthofen who\ncarry 324 catties 432lbs A package of tea is called a _pao_ and\nvaries in weight from eleven to eighteen catties yet Baber has often\nseen coolies carrying eighteen of the eighteencatty _pao_ the _Yachou\npao_ and on one occasion twentytwo in other words Baber has often\nseen coolies with more than 400lbs on their backs Under these enormous\nloads they travel from six to seven miles a day The average load of the\nThibetan teacarrier is says Gill from 240lbs to 264lbs Gill\nconstantly saw little boys carrying 120lbs Bundles of calico weigh\nfiftyfive catties each 7313lbs and three bundles are the average\nload Salt is solid hard metallic and of high specific gravity yet I\nhave seen men ambling along the road under loads that a strong\nEnglishman could with difficulty raise from the ground The average load\nof salt coal copper zinc and tin is 200lbs Gill met coolies\ncarrying logs 200lbs in weight ten miles a day and 200lbs the\nConsul in Chungking told me is the average weight carried by the\nclothporters between Wanhsien and Chentu the capital\n\nMountain coolies such as the teacarriers bear the weight of their\nburden on their shoulders carrying it as we do a knapsack not in the\nordinary Chinese way with a pliant carrying pole They are all provided\nwith a short staff which has a transverse handle curved like a\nboomerang and with this they ease the weight off the back while\nstanding at rest\n\nWe were still ascending the valley which became more difficult of\npassage every day Hamlets are built where there is scarce foothold in\nthe detritus below perpendicular escarpments of rock cut clean like\nthe facades of a Gothic temple A tributary of the river is crossed by\nan admirable stone bridge of two arches with a central pier and\ncutwater of magnificent boldness and strength and with two images of\nlions guarding its abutment Just below the branch the main stream can\nbe crossed by a traveller if he be brave enough to venture in a bamboo\nloopcradle and be drawn across the stream on a powerful bamboo cable\nslung from bank to bank\n\nWe rested by the bridge and refreshed ourselves for above us was an\nascent whose steepness my stuttering coolie indicated to me by fixing my\nwalking stick in the ground almost perpendicularly and running his\nfinger up the side He did not exaggerate A zigzag path set with stone\nsteps has been cut in the vertical ascent and up this we toiled for\nhours At the base of the escalade my men sublet their loads to spare\ncoolies who were waiting there in numbers for the purpose and climbed\nup with me emptyhanded At every few turns there were resthouses where\none could get tea and shelter from the hot sun The village of\nTakwanleo is at the summit it is a village of some little importance\nand commands a noble view of mountain valley and river Its largest\nhong is the coffinmakers which is always filled with shells of the\nthickest timber that money can buy\n\nStress is laid in China upon the necessity of a secure restingplace\nafter death The filial affection of a son can do no more thoughtful act\nthan present a coffin to his father to prove to him how composedly he\nwill lie after he is dead And nothing will a father in China show the\nstranger with more pride than the coffinboards presented to him by his\ndutiful son\n\nTakwanleo is the highest point on the road between Suifu and Chaotong\nFor centuries it has been known to the Chinese as the highest point\nhow then with their defective appliances did they arrive at so\naccurate a determination Twenty li beyond the village the stage ends at\nthe town of Tawantzu where I had good quarters in the pavilion of an\nold temple The shrine was thick with the dust of years the three gods\nwere dishevelled and mutilated no sheaves of joss sticks were\nsmouldering on the altar The steps led down into manure heaps and a\npiggery into a garden rank and waste which yet commands an outlook\nover mountain and river worthy of the greatest of temples\n\nIllustration THE OPIUMSMOKER OF ROMANCE\n\nOn March 30th I reached Takwanhsien the days stage having been\nseventy li twentythree and onethird miles I was carried all the way\nby three chaircoolies in a heavy chair in steady rain that made the\nunpaved track as slippery as iceand this over the dizzy heights of a\nmountain pathway of extraordinary irregularity Never slipping never\nmaking a mistake the three coolies bore the chair with my thirteen\nstone easily and without straining From time to time they rested a\nminute or two to take a whiff of tobacco they were always in good\nhumour and finished the day as strong and fresh as when they began it\nWithin an hour of their arrival all these three men were lying on their\nsides in the room opposite to mine with their opiumpipes and little\nwooden vials of opium before them all three engaged in rolling and\nheating in their opiumlamps treacly pellets of opium Then they had\ntheir daily smoke of opium They were ruining themselves body and\nsoul Two of the men were past middle age the third was a strapping\nyoung fellow of twentyfive They may have only recently acquired the\nhabit I had no means of asking them but those who know Western China\nwill tell you that it is almost certain that the two elder men had used\nthe opiumpipe as a stimulant since they were as young as their\ncompanion All three men were physically welldeveloped with large\nframes showing unusual muscular strength and endurance and differed\nindeed from those resurrected corpses whose fleshless figures drawn by\nimaginative Chinese artists we have known for years to be typical of\nour poor lost brothersthe opiumsmoking millions of China For their\nwork today work that few men out of China would be capable of\nattempting the three coolies were paid sevenpence each out of which\nthey found themselves and had to pay as well one penny each for the\nhire of the chair\n\nOn arriving at the inn in Takwanhsien my estimable comrade one of the\nsix surviving converts of Suifu indicated to me that his cash belt was\nemptyup the road he could not produce a single cash for me to give a\nbeggarand pointing in turn to the bag where I kept my silver to the\nceiling and to his heart he conveyed to me the pious assurance that if\nI would give him some silver from the bag he would bring me back the\ntrue change on his honour so witness Heaven I gave him two lumps of\nsilver which I made him understand were worth 3420 cash he went away\nand after a suspicious absence returned quite gleefully with 3050 cash\nthe bank no doubt having detained the remainder pending the\ndeclaration of a bogus dividend But he also brought back with him what\nwas better than cash some nutritious maizemeal cakes which proved a\nwelcome change from the everlasting rice They were as large as an\nEnglish scone and cost two cash apiece that is to say for one\nshilling I could buy twenty dozen\n\nMoney in Western China consists of solid ingots of silver and copper\ncash The silver is in lumps of one tael or more each the tael being a\nChinese ounce and equivalent roughly to between 1400 and 1500 cash\nSpeaking generally a tael was worth during my journey three shillings\nthat is to say forty cash were equivalent to one penny There are\nbankers in every town and the Chinese methods of banking it is well\nknown are but little inferior to our own From Hankow to Chungking my\nmoney was remitted by draft through a Chinese bank West from Chungking\nthe money may be sent by draft by telegraph or in bullion as you\nchoose I carried some silver with me the rest I put up in a package\nand handed to a native post in Chungking which undertook to deliver it\nintact to me at Yunnan city 700 miles away within a specified time By\nmy declaring its contents and paying the registration fee a mere\ntrifle the post guaranteed its safe delivery and engaged to make good\nany loss Money is thus remitted in Western China with complete\nconfidence and security My money arrived I may add in Yunnan at the\ntime agreed upon but after I had left for Talifu As there is a\ntelegraph line between Yunnan and Tali the money was forwarded by\ntelegraph and awaited my arrival in Tali\n\nThere are no less than four native postoffices between Chungking and\nSuifu All the postoffices transmit parcels as well as letters and\nbullion at very moderate charges The distance is 230 miles and the\ncharges are fifty cash _114d_ the catty 113lb or any part\nthereof thus a single letter pays fifty cash a cattys weight of\nletters paying no more than a single letter\n\nFrom Chungking to Yunnan city a distance of 630 miles letters pay two\nhundred cash fivepence each packages of one catty or under pay\nthree hundred and fifty cash while for silver bullion there is a\nspecial fee of three hundred and fifty cash for every ten taels\nequivalent to ninepence for thirty shillings or twoandahalf per\ncent which includes postage registration guarantee and insurance\n\nTakwanhsien is a town of some importance and was formerly the seat of\nthe French missionary bishop It is a walled town ranking as a Hsien\ncity with a Hsien magistrate as its chief ruler There are 10000\npeople more or less within the walls but the city is poor and its\npoverty is but a reflex of the district Its mud wall is crumbling its\nhouses of mud and wood are falling the streets are illpaved and the\npeople illclad\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VIII\n\nTHE CITY OF CHAOTONG WITH SOME REMARKS ON ITS POVERTY INFANTICIDE\nSELLING FEMALE CHILDREN INTO SLAVERY TORTURES AND THE CHINESE\nINSENSIBILITY TO PAIN\n\n\nBy the following day we had crossed the mountains and were walking\nalong the level upland that leads to the plain of Chaotong And on\nSunday April 1st we reached the city Cedars held sacred with\nshrines in the shelter of their branches dot the plain peachtrees and\npeartrees were now in full bloom the harvest was ripening in the\nfields There were blackfaced sheep in abundance red cattle with short\nhorns and the ubiquitous waterbuffalo Over the level roads primitive\ncarts drawn by red oxen were rumbling in the dust There were mud\nvillages poor and falling into ruins there were everywhere signs of\npoverty and famine Children ran about naked or in rags We passed the\nlikinbarrier known by its white flag and I was not even asked for my\nvisiting card nor were my boxes looked intothey were as beggarly as\nthe districtbut poor carriers were detained and a few cash unjustly\nwrung from them At a crowded teahouse a few miles from the city we\nwaited for the stragglers while many wayfarers gathered in to see me\nPrices were ranging higher Tea here was 4 cash and not 2 cash as\nhitherto But even this charge was not excessive In Canton one day\nafter a weary journey on foot through the crowded streets I was taken\nto a fivestoried pagoda overlooking the city At the topmost story tea\nwas brought me and I drank a dozen cups and was asked threepence in\npayment I thought that the cheapest refreshment I ever had Yet here I\nwas served as abundantly with better tea at a charge compared with which\nthe Canton charge was twentyfive times greater Previously in this\nprovince the price I had paid for tea in comparison with the price at\nCanton was as one to fifty\n\nEarly in the afternoon we passed through the south gate into Chaotong\nand picking our way through the streets were led to the comfortable\nhome of the Bible Christian Mission where I was kindly received by the\nRev Frank Dymond and welcomed as a brother missionary of whose arrival\nhe had been advised Services were ended but the neighbours dropped in\nto see the stranger and ask my exalted age my honourable name and my\ndignified business they hoped to be able to congratulate me upon being\na man of virtue the father of many sons asked how many thousands of\npieces of silver I had daughters and how long I proposed to permit my\ndignified presence to remain in their mean and contemptible city\n\nMr Dymond is a Devonshire man and that evening he gave me for tea\nDevonshire cream and blackberry jam made in Chaotong and native oatmeal\ncakes than which I never tasted any better in Scotland\n\nChaotong is a walled Fu city with 40000 inhabitants Roman Catholics\nhave been established here for many years and the Bible Christian\nMission which is affiliated to the China Inland Mission has been\nworking here since 1887\n\nThere were formerly five missionaries there are now only two and one\nof these was absent The missionary in charge Mr Frank Dymond is one\nof the most agreeable men I met in China broadminded sympathetic and\nearnestuniversally honoured and respected by all the district Since\nthe mission was opened three converts have been baptised one of whom is\nin Szechuen another is in Tongchuan and the third has been gathered to\nhis fathers The harvest has not been abundant but there are now six\npromising inquirers and the missionary is not discouraged The mission\npremises are built on land which cost two hundred and ninety taels and\nare well situated not far from the south gate the chief yamens the\ntemples and the French Mission People are friendly but manifest\ndangerously little interest in their salvation\n\nAt Chaotong I had entered upon a district that had been devastated by\nrecurring seasons of plague and famine Last year more than 5000 people\nare believed to have died from starvation in the town and its immediate\nneighbourhood The numbers are appalling but doubt must always be\nthrown upon statistics derived from Chinese sources The Chinese and\nJapanese disregard of accuracy is characteristic of all Orientals\nBeggars were so numerous and became such a menace to the community\nthat their suppression was called for they were driven from the\nstreets and confined within the walls of the temple and grounds beyond\nthe south gate and fed by common charity Huddled together in rags and\nmisery they took famine fever and perished by hundreds Seventy dead\nwere carried from the temple in one day Of 5000 poor wretches who\ncrossed the temple threshold the Chinese say that 2000 never came out\nalive For four years past the harvests had been very bad but there was\nnow hope of a better time coming Opportune rains had fallen and the\nopium crop was good More than anything else the district depends for\nits prosperity upon the opium cropif the crop is good money is\nplentiful Maizecobs last harvest were four times the size of those of\nthe previous harvest when they were no larger than ones finger Wheat\nand beans were forward the coming rice crop gave every hope of being a\ngood one Food was still dear and all prices were high because rice\nwas scarce and dear and it is the price of rice which regulates the\nmarket In a good year one sheng of rice 623lbs costs thirtyfive\ncash less than one penny it now costs 110 cash The normal price of\nmaize is sixteen cash the sheng it now cost sixtyfive cash the sheng\nTo make things worse the weight of the sheng had been reduced with the\ntimes from twelve catties to five catties and at the same time the\nrelation of cash to silver had fallen from 1640 to 1250 cash the tael\n\nThe selling of its female children into slavery is the chief sorrow of\nthis faminestricken district During last year it is estimated or\nrather it is stated by the Chinese that no less than three thousand\nchildren from this neighbourhood chiefly female children and a few\nboys were sold to dealers and carried like poultry in baskets to the\ncapital At ordinary times the price for girls is one tael three\nshillings for every year of their age thus a girl of five costs\nfifteen shillings of ten thirty shillings but in time of famine\nchildren to speak brutally become a drug in the market Female\nchildren were now offering at from three shillings and fourpence to six\nshillings each You could buy as many as you cared to you might even\nobtain them for nothing if you would enter into an agreement with the\nfather which he had no means of enforcing to take care of his child\nand clothe and feed her and rear her kindly Starving mothers would\ncome to the mission beseeching the foreign teachers to take their babies\nand save them from the fate that was otherwise inevitable\n\nGirls are bought in Chaotong up to the age of twenty and there is\nalways a ready market for those above the age of puberty prices then\nvary according to the measure of the girls beauty an important feature\nbeing the smallness of her feet They are sold in the capital for wives\nand _yatows_ they are rarely sold into prostitution Two important\nfactors in the demand for them are the large preponderance in the number\nof males at the capital and the prevalence there of goitre or thick\nneck a deformity which is absent from the district of Chaotong\nInfanticide in a starving city like this is dreadfully common For the\nparents seeing their children must be doomed to poverty think it\nbetter at once to let the soul escape in search of a more happy asylum\nthan to linger in one condemned to want and wretchedness The\ninfanticide is however exclusively confined to the destruction of\nfemale children the sons being permitted to live in order to continue\nthe ancestral sacrifices\n\nOne mother I met who was employed by the mission told the missionary\nin ordinary conversation that she had suffocated in turn three of her\nfemale children within a few days of birth and when a fourth was born\nso enraged was her husband to discover that it was also a girl that he\nseized it by the legs and struck it against the wall and killed it\n\nDead children and often living infants are thrown out on the common\namong the gravemounds and may be seen there any morning being gnawed by\ndogs Mr Tremberth of the Bible Christian Mission leaving by the south\ngate early one morning disturbed a dog eating a still living child\nthat had been thrown over the wall during the night Its little arm was\ncrunched and stript of flesh and it was whining inarticulatelyit died\nalmost immediately A man came to see me who for a long time used to\nheap up merit for himself in heaven by acting as a city scavenger Early\nevery morning he went round the city picking up dead dogs and dead cats\nin order to bury them decentlywho could tell perhaps the soul of his\ngrandfather had found habitation in that cat While he was doing this\npious work never a morning passed that he did not find a dead child\nand usually three or four The dead of the poor people are roughly\nburied near the surface and eaten by dogs\n\nAn instance of the undoubted truth of the doctrine of transmigration\noccurred recently in Chaotong and is worth recording A cow was killed\nnear the south gate on whose intestineand this fact can be attested by\nall who saw itwas written plainly and unmistakably the character\n_Wong_ which proved they told me that the soul of one whose name\nwas Wong had returned to earth in the body of that cow\n\nI stayed two days in Chaotong and strolled in pleasant company through\nthe city Close to the Mission is the yamen of the Chentai or\nBrigadierGeneral the Military Governor of this portion of the\nprovince and a little further is the more crowded yamen of the Fu\nMagistrate Here as in all yamens the detached wall or fixed screen of\nstone facing the entrance is painted with the gigantic representation of\na mythical monster in red trying to swallow the sunthe Chinese\nillustration of the French saying _prendre la lune avec les dents_ It\nis the warning against covetousness the exhortation against squeezing\nand is as little likely to be attended to by the magistrate here as it\nwould be by his brother in Chicago We visited the Confucian Temple\namong the trees and the examination hall close by and another yamen\nand the Temple of the God of Riches In the yamen at the time of our\nvisit a young official seated in his fourbearer chair was waiting in\nthe outer court he had sent in his visiting card and attended the\npleasure of his superior officer China may be uncivilised and may yearn\nfor the missionaries but there was refined etiquette in China and an\ninterchange of many of the pleasantest courtesies of modern\ncivilisation when we noble Britons were grubbing in the forest painted\nsavages with a clout\n\nAs we went out of the west gate I was shown the spot where a few days\nbefore a young woman taken in adultery was done to death in a cage\namid a crowd of spectators who witnessed her agony for three days She\nhad to stand on tiptoe in the cage her head projecting through a hole\nin the roof and here she had to remain until death by exhaustion or\nstrangulation ensued or till some kind friend seeking to accumulate\nmerit in heaven passed into her mouth sufficient opium to poison her\nand so end her struggles\n\nOn the gate itself a man not so long ago was nailed with redhot nails\nhammered through his wrists above the hands In this way he was exposed\nin turn at each of the four gates of the city so that every man woman\nand child could see his torture He survived four days having\nunsuccessfully attempted to shorten his pain by beating his head against\nthe woodwork an attempt which was frustrated by padding the woodwork\nThis man had murdered and robbed two travellers on the high road and\nas things are in China his punishment was not too severe\n\nNo people are more cruel in their punishments than the Chinese and\nobviously the reason is that the sensory nervous system of a Chinaman is\neither blunted or of arrested development Can anyone doubt this who\nwitnesses the stoicism with which a Chinaman can endure physical pain\nwhen sustaining surgical operation without chloroform the comfort with\nwhich he can thrive amid foul and penetrating smells the calmness with\nwhich he can sleep amid the noise of gunfire and crackers drums and\ntomtoms and the indifference with which he contemplates the sufferings\nof lower animals and the infliction of tortures on higher\n\nEvery textbook on China devotes a special chapter to the subject of\npunishment Mutilation is extremely common Often I met men who had been\ndeprived of their earsthey had lost them they explained in battle\nfacing the enemy It is a common punishment to sever the hamstrings or\nto break the anklebones especially in the case of prisoners who have\nattempted to escape And I remember that when I was in Shanghai Mr\nTsai the Mixed Court Magistrate was reproved by the papers because he\nhad from the bench expressed his regret that the foreign law of Shanghai\ndid not permit him to punish in this way a prisoner who had twice\nsucceeded in breaking from gaol The hand is cut off for theft as it\nwas in England not so many years ago I have seen men with the tendon of\nAchilles cut out and it is worth noting that the Chinese say that this\nacquired deformity can be cured by the transplantation in the seat of\ninjury of the tendon of a sheep One embellishment of the Chinese\npunishment of flogging might with good effect be introduced into\nEngland After a Chinese flagellation the culprit is compelled to go\ndown on his knees and humbly thank the magistrate for the trouble he has\nbeen put to to correct his morals\n\nThere is a branch of the _Missions Etrangeres de Paris_ in Chaotong I\ncalled at the mission and saw their school of fifteen children and\ntheir tiny little church One priest lives here solitary and alone he\nwas reading when I entered the famous Chinese story The Three\nKingdoms He gave me a kindly welcome and was pleased to talk in his\nown tongue An excellent bottle of rich wine was produced and over the\nglass the Father painted with voluble energy the evil qualities of the\npeople whom he has left his beautiful home in the Midi of France to lead\nto Rome No Chinaman can resist temptation all are thieves Justice\ndepends on the richness of the accused Victory in a court of justice is\nto the richer Talk to the Chinese of Religion of a God of Heaven or\nHell and they yawn speak to them of business and they are all\nattention If you ever hear of a Chinaman who is not a thief and a liar\ndo not believe it Monsieur Morrison do not believe it they are\nthieves and liars every one\n\nFor eight years the priest had been in China devoting his best energies\nto the propagation of his religion And sorry had been his recompense\nThe best Christian in the mission had lately broken into the mission\nhouse and stolen everything valuable he could lay his impious hands on\nRemembrance of this infamy rankled in his bosom and impelled him to this\nexpansive panegyric on Chinese virtue\n\nSome four months ago the good father was away on a holiday visiting a\nmissionary brother in an adjoining town In his absence the mission was\nentered through a rift made in the wall and three hundred taels of\nsilver all the money to the last sou that he possessed were stolen\nSuspicion fell upon a Christian who was not only an active Catholic\nhimself but whose fathers before him had been Catholics for\ngenerations It was learned that his wife had some of the money and\nthat the thief was on his way to Suifu with the remainder There was\ngreat difficulty in inducing the yamen to take action but at last the\nwife was arrested She protested that she knew nothing but having been\ntriced up by the wrists joined behind her back she soon came to reason\nand cried out that if the magistrate would release her hands she would\nconfess all Two hundred taels were seized in her house and restored to\nthe priest and the culprit her husband followed to Takwanhsien by\nthe satellites of the yamen was there arrested and was now in prison\nawaiting punishment The goods he purchased were likewise seized and\nwere now with the poor father\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IX\n\nMAINLY ABOUT CHINESE DOCTORS\n\n\nChaotong is an important centre for the distribution of medicines to\nSzechuen and other parts of the empire An extraordinary variety of\ndrugs and medicaments is collected in the city No pharmacopoeia is more\ncomprehensive than the Chinese No English physician can surpass the\nChinese in the easy confidence with which he will diagnose symptoms that\nhe does not understand The Chinese physician who witnesses the\nunfortunate effect of placing a drug of which he knows nothing into a\nbody of which he knows less is no more disconcerted than is his Western\nbrother under similar circumstances he retires sententiously observing\nthere is medicine for sickness but none for fate Medicine says the\nChinese proverb cures the man who is fated not to die When Yenwang\nthe King of Hell has decreed a man to die at the third watch no power\nwill detain him till the fifth\n\nThe professional knowledge of a Chinese doctor largely consists in\nability to feel the pulse or rather the innumerable pulses of his\nChinese patient This is the real criterion of his skill The pulses of\na Chinaman vary in a manner that no English doctor can conceive of For\ninstance among the seven kinds of pulse which presage approaching\ndeath occur the five following\n\n1 When the pulse is perceived under the fingers to bubble irregularly\nlike water over a great fire if it be in the morning the patient will\ndie in the evening\n\n2 Death is no farther off if the pulse seems like a fish whose head is\nstopped in such a manner that he cannot move but has a frisking tail\nwithout any regularity the cause of this distemper lies in the kidneys\n\n3 If the pulse seems like drops of water that fall into a room through\nsome crack and when in its return it is scattered and disordered much\nlike the twine of a cord which is unravelled the bones are dried up\neven to the very marrow\n\n4 Likewise if the motion of the pulse resembles the pace of a frog\nwhen he is embarrassed in the weeds death is certain\n\n5 If the motion of the pulse resembles the hasty pecking of the beak\nof a bird there is a defect of spirits in the stomach\n\nHeredity is the most important factor in the evolution of a doctor in\nChina success in his career as an hereditary physician being\nspecially assured to him who has the good fortune to make his first\nappearance in the world feet foremost Doctors dispense their own\nmedicines In their shops you see an amazing variety of drugs you will\noccasionally also see tethered a live stag which on a certain day to\nbe decided by the priests will be pounded whole in a pestle and mortar\nPills manufactured out of a whole stag slaughtered with purity of\npurpose on a propitious day is a common announcement in dispensaries\nin China The wall of a doctors shop is usually stuck all over with\ndisused plasters returned by grateful patients with complimentary\ntestimonies to their efficiency they have done what England is alleged\nto expect of all her sonstheir duty\n\nMedicines it is known to all Chinamen operate variously according to\ntheir taste thusAll sour medicines are capable of impeding and\nretaining bitter medicines of causing looseness and warmth as well as\nhardening sweet possess the qualities of strengthening of harmonising\nand of warming acids disperse prove emollient and go in an athwart\ndirection salt medicines possess the properties of descending those\nsubstances that are hard and tasteless open the orifices of the body and\npromote a discharge This explains the use of the five tastes\n\nComing from Szechuen we frequently met porters carrying baskets of\narmadillos leopard skins leopard and tiger bones The skins were for\nwear but the armadillos and bones were being taken to Suifu to be\nconverted into medicine From the bones of leopards an admirable tonic\nmay be distilled while it is well known that the infusion prepared from\ntiger bones is the greatest of the tonics conferring something of the\ncourage agility and strength of the tiger upon its partaker\n\nAnother excellent specific for courage is a preparation made from the\ngall bladder of a robber famous for his bravery who has died at the\nhands of the executioner The sale of such a gall bladder is one of the\nperquisites of a Chinese executioner\n\nAgue at certain seasons is one of the most common ailments of the\ndistrict of Chaotong yet there is an admirable prophylactic at hand\nagainst it write the names of the eight demons of ague on paper and\nthen eat the paper with a cake or take out the eyes of the paper\ndoorgod there are doorgods on all your neighbours doors and devour\nthemthis remedy never fails\n\nUnlike the Spaniard the Chinese disapproves of bloodletting in fevers\nfor a fever is like a pot boiling it is requisite to reduce the fire\nand not diminish the liquid in the vessel if we wish to cure the\npatient\n\nUnlike the Spaniard too the Chinese doctors would not venture to\nassert as the medical faculty of Madrid in the middle of last century\nassured the inhabitants that if human excrement was no longer to be\nsuffered to accumulate as usual in the streets where it might attract\nthe putrescent particles floating in the air these noxious vapours\nwould find their way into the human body and a pestilential sickness\nwould be the inevitable consequence\n\nFor boils there is a certain cureThere is a God of Boils If you have\na boil you will plaster the offending excrescence without avail if that\nbe _all_ you plaster to get relief you must at the same time plaster\nthe corresponding area on the image of the God Go into his temple in\nWestern China and you will find this deity dripping with plasters with\nscarcely an undesecrated space on his superficies\n\nAt the yamen of the BrigadierGeneral in Chaotong the entrance is\nguarded by the customary stone images of mythical shape and grotesque\nfeatures They are believed to represent lions but their faces are not\nleoninethey are a reproduction exaggerated of the characteristic\nfeatures of the bulldog of Western China The images are of undoubted\nvalue to the city One is male and the other female On the sixteenth\nday of the first month they are visited by the townspeople who rub them\nenergetically with their hands all over from end to end Every spot so\ntouched confers immunity from pain upon the corresponding region of\ntheir own bodies for the ensuing year And so from year to year these\nimages are visited Pain accordingly is almost absent from the city\nand only that man suffers pain who has the temerity to neglect the\nopportunity of insuring himself against it\n\nI was called to a case of opiumpoisoning in Chaotong A son came in\ncasually to seek our aid in saving his father who had attempted suicide\nwith a large overdose of opium He had taken it at ten in the morning\nand it was now two We were led to the house and found it a single small\nunlit room up a narrow alley In the room two men were unconcernedly\neating their rice and in the darkness they seemed to be the only\noccupants but lying down behind them on a narrow bed was the dim\nfigure of the dying man who was breathing stertorously A crowd quickly\ngathered round the door and pent up the alleyway Rousing the man I\ncaused him to swallow some pints of warm water and then I gave him a\nhypodermic injection of apomorphia The effect was admirable and\npleased the spectators even more than the patient\n\nOpium is almost exclusively the drug used by suicides No Chinaman would\nkill himself by the mutilation of the razor or pistolshot because awful\nis the future punishment of him who would so dare to disturb the\nintegrity of the body bequeathed to him by his fathers\n\nChina is the land of suicides I suppose more people die from suicide in\nChina in proportion to the population than in any other country Where\nthe struggle for existence is so keen it is hardly to be wondered at\nthat men are so willing to abandon the struggle But poverty and misery\nare not the only causes For the most trivial reason the Chinaman will\ntake his own life Suicide with a Chinaman is an act that is recorded in\nhis honour rather than to his opprobrium\n\nThus a widow as we have seen may obtain much merit by sacrificing\nherself on the death of her husband But in a large proportion of cases\nthe motive is revenge for the spirit of the dead is believed to haunt\nand injure the living person who has been the cause of the suicide In\nChina to ruin your adversary you injure or kill yourself To vow to\ncommit suicide is the most awful threat with which you can drive terror\ninto the heart of your adversary If your enemy do you wrong there is\nno way in which you can cause him more bitterly to repent his misdeed\nthan by slaying yourself at his doorstep He will be charged with your\nmurder and may be executed for the crime he will be utterly ruined in\nestablishing if he can establish his innocence and he will be haunted\never after by your avenging spirit\n\nOccasionally two men who have quarrelled will take poison together and\ntheir spirits will fight it out in heaven Opium is very cheap in\nChaotong costing only fivepence an ounce for the crude article You see\nit exposed for sale everywhere like thick treacle in dirty besmeared\njars It is largely adulterated with ground pigskin the adulteration\nbeing detected by the craving being unsatisfied Mohammedans have a holy\nloathing of the pig and look with contempt on their countrymen whose\nchief meatfood is pork But each one in his turn It is on the other\nhand a source of infinite amusement to the Chinese to see his\nMohammedan brother unwittingly smoking the unclean beast in his\nopiumpipe\n\nOn our way to the opium case we passed a doorway from which pitiful\nscreams were issuing It was a mother thrashing her little boy with a\nheavy stickshe had tethered him by the leg and was using the stick\nwith both hands A Chinese proverb as old as the hills tells you if\nyou love your son give him plenty of the cudgel if you hate him cram\nhim with delicacies He was a young wretch she said and she could do\nnothing with him and she raised her baton again to strike but the\nmissionary interposed whereupon she consented to stay her wrath and did\nsotill we were round the corner\n\nExtreme lenity alternating with rude passion in the treatment of\nchildren is the characteristic says Meadows of the lower stages of\ncivilisation I mention this incident only because of its rarity In no\nother country in the world civilised or heathen are children\ngenerally treated with more kindness and affection than they are in\nChina Children even amongst seemingly stolid Chinese have the\nfaculty of calling forth the better feelings so often found latent\nTheir prattle delights the fond father whose pride beams through every\nline of his countenance and their quaint and winning ways and touches\nof nature are visible even under the disadvantages of almond eyes and\nshaven crowns Dyer Ball\n\nA mother in China is given both by law and custom extreme power over\nher sons whatever their age or rank The Sacred Edict says Parents are\nlike heaven Heaven produces a blade of grass Spring causes it to\ngerminate Autumn kills it with frost Both are by the will of heaven\nIn like manner the power of life and death over the body which they have\nbegotten is with the parents\n\nAnd it is this law giving such power to a mother in China which tends\nit is believed to nullify that other law whereby a husband in China is\ngiven extreme power over his wife even to the power in some cases of\nlife and death\n\nThe Mohammedans are still numerous in Chaotong and there are some 3000\nfamiliesthe figures are Chinesein the city and district Their\nnumbers were much reduced during the suppression of the rebellion of\n18571873 when they suffered the most awful cruelties Again thirteen\nyears ago there was an uprising which was suppressed by the Government\nwith merciless severity One street is exclusively occupied by Moslems\nwho have in their hands the skin trade of the city Their houses are\nknown by a conspicuous absence from door and window of the coloured\npaper doorgods that are seen grotesquely glaring from the doors of the\nunbelievers Their mosque is well cared for and unusually clean In the\ncentre within the main doorway as in every mosque in the empire is a\ngilt tablet of loyalty to the living Emperor May the Emperor reign ten\nthousand years it says a token of subjection which the mosques of\nYunnan have especially been compelled to display since the insurrection\nAt the time of my visit an aged mollah was teaching Arabic and the Koran\nto a ragged handful of boys He spoke to me through an interpreter and\ngave me the impression of having some little knowledge of things outside\nthe four seas that surround China I told him that I had lived under the\nshelter of two of the greatest mosques but he seemed to question my\ncontention that the mosque in Cordova and the Karouin mosque in Fez are\neven more noble in their proportions than his mosque in Chaotong In\nsome of the skinhongs that I entered the walls were ornamented with\ncoloured plans of Mecca and Medinah bought in Chentu the capital city\nof the province of Szechuen\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER X\n\nTHE JOURNEY FROM CHAOTONG TO TONGCHUAN\n\n\nIn Chaotong I engaged three new men to go with me to Tongchuan a\ndistance of 110 miles and I rewarded liberally the three excellent\nfellows who had accompanied me from Suifu My new men were all active\nChinamen The headman Laohwan was most anxious to come with me\nRecognising that he possessed characteristics which his posterity would\nrejoice to have transmitted to them he had lately taken to himself a\nwife and now a fortnight later he sought rest He would come with me\nto Burma the further away the better he wished to prove the truth of\nthe adage about distance and enchantment The two coolies who were to\ncarry the loads were country lads from the district My men were to\nreceive _4s 6d_ each for the 110 miles an excessive wage but all\nfood was unusually dear and people were eating maize instead of rice\nthey were to find themselves on the way in other words they were to\neat their own rice and in return for a small reward they were to\nendeavour to do the five days stages in three days I bought a few\nstores including some excellent oatmeal and an annular cake of that\ncompressed tea the Puerhcha which is grown in the Shan States and\nis distributed as a luxury all over China It is in favour in the palace\nof the Emperor in Peking itself it is one of the finest teas in China\nyet to show how jealous the rivalry now is between China tea and\nIndian when I submitted the remainder of this very cake to a wellknown\nteataster in Mangoe Lane Calcutta and asked his expert opinion he\nreported that the sample was of undoubted value and of great interest\nas showing what _muck can be called tea_\n\nWe left on the 3rd and passed by the mainstreet through the crowded\ncity past the rich wholesale warehouses and out by the west gate to\nthe plain of Chaotong The country spread before us was smiling and\nrich with many farmsteads and orchards of pears and peachesa pretty\nsight for the trees were now in full blossom Many carts were lumbering\nalong the road on their uneven wheels Just beyond the city there was a\nnoisy altercation in the road for the possession apparently of a blunt\nadze Carts stopped to see the row and all the bystanders joined in\nwith their voices with much earnestness It is rare for the disputants\nto be injured in these questions Their language on these occasions is\nI am told extremely rich in allusions It would often make a _gendarme_\nblush Their oaths are more ornate than the Italians the art of\nvituperation is far advanced in China A strong wind was blowing in our\nfaces We rested at some mud hovels where poverty was stalking about\nwith a stick in rags and nakedness Full dress of many of these beggars\nwould disgrace a Polynesian Even the better dressed were hung with\ngarments in rags tattered and dirty as a Paisley ragpickers The\nchildren were mostly starknaked In the middle of the day we reached a\nMohammedan village named Taouen twenty miles from Chaotong and my man\nprepared me an _al fresco_ lunch The entire village gathered into the\nsquare to see me eat they struggled for the orange peel I threw under\nthe table\n\nFrom here the road rises quickly to the village of Tashuitsing 7380\nfeet above sea level where my men wished to remain and apparently\ncame to an understanding with the innkeeper but I would not understand\nand went on alone and they perforce had to follow me There are only\nhalfadozen rude inns in the village all Mohammedan but just outside\nthe village the road passes under a magnificent triple archway in four\ntiers made of beautifully cut stone embossed with flowers and images\nand richly gilta striking monument in so forlorn a situation It was\nbuilt two years ago in obedience to the will of the Emperor by the\nrichest merchant of Chaotong and is dedicated to the memory of his\nvirtuous mother who died at the age of eighty having thus experienced\nthe joy of old age which in China is the foremost of the five measures\nof felicity It was erected and carved on the spot by masons from\nChungking Long after dark we reached an outlying inn of the village of\nKiangti a thatched mud barn with a sleeping room surrounded on three\nsides by a raised ledge of mud bricks upon which were stretched the\nmattresses The room was dimly lit by an oillamp the floor was earth\nthe grating under the rafters was stored with maizecobs Outside the\ndoor cooking was done in the usual square earthen stove in which are\nsunk two iron basins one for rice the other for hot water maize\nstalks were being burnt in the flues The room when we entered was\noccupied by a dozen Chinese with their loads and the packsaddles of a\ncaravan of mules yet what did the goodnatured fellows do They must\nall have been more tired than I but without complaining they all got\nup when they saw me and packed their things and went out of the room\none after the other to make way for myself and my companions And\nwhile we were comfortable they crowded into another room that was\nalready crowded\n\nNext day a tremendously steep descent took us down to Kiangti a\nmountain village on the right bank of a swift stream here spanned in\nits rocky pass by a beautiful suspension bridge which swings gracefully\nhigh above the torrent The bridge is 150 feet long by 12 feet broad\nand there is no engineer in England who might not be proud to have been\nits builder At its far end the parapets are guarded by two sculptured\nmonkeys hewn with rough tools out of granite and the more remarkable\nfor their fidelity of form seeing that the artist must have carved them\nfrom memory The inevitable likinbarrier is at the bridge to squeeze a\nfew more cash out of the poor carriers That the Inland Customs dues of\nChina are vexatious there can be no doubt yet it is open to question if\nthe combined duties of all the likinbarriers on any one main road\nextending from frontier to frontier of any single province in China are\ngreater than the _ad valorem_ duties imposed by our colony of Victoria\nupon the protected goods crossing her border from an adjoining colony\n\nIllustration PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE WESTERN CHINA\n\nLeaving the bridge the road leads again up the hills Poppy was now in\nfull flower and everywhere in the fields women were collecting opium\nThey were scoring the poppy capsules with vertical scratches and\nscraping off the exuded juice which had bled from the incisions they\nmade yesterday Hundreds of pack horses carrying Puerh tea met us on the\nroad while all day long we were passing files of coolies toiling\npatiently along under heavy loads of crockery They were going in the\nsame direction as ourselves to the confines of the empire distributing\nthose teacups saucers and cuplids china spoons and ricebowls that\none sees in every inn in China Most of the crockery is brought across\nChina from the province of Kiangsi whose natural resources seems to\ngive it almost the monopoly of this industry The trade is an immense\none In the neighbourhood of Kingtehchin in Kiangsi at the outbreak\nof the Taiping rebellion more than one million workmen were employed in\nthe porcelain manufactories Cups and saucers by the time they reach so\nfar distant a part of China as this carried as they are so many\nhundreds of miles on the backs of coolies are sold for three or four\ntimes their original cost Great care is taken of them and no piece can\nbe so badly broken as not to be mended Crockeryrepairing is a\nrecognised trade and the workmen are unusually skilful even for\nChinese They rivet the pieces together with minute copper clamps To\nhave a specimen of their handiwork I purposely in Yunnan broke a cup and\nsaucer into fragments only to find when I had done so that there was\nnot a mender in the district Rice bowls and teacups are neatly made\ntough and well finished even the humblest are not inelegantly\ncoloured while the highclass china especially where the imperial\nyellow is used often shows the richest beauty of ornamentation\n\nInns on this road were few and at wide distances they were scarcely\nsufficient for the numbers who used them The country was red sandstone\nopen and devoid of all timber till descending again into a valley\nthe path crossed an obstructing ridge and led us with pleasant surprise\ninto a beautiful park It was all green and refreshing A pretty stream\nwas humming past the willows its banks covered with the poppy in full\nflower a blaze of colour magenta white scarlet pink and blue picked\nout with hedges of roses The birds were as tame as in the Garden of\nEden magpies came almost to our feet the sparrows took no notice of\nus the falcons knew we would not molest them the pigeons seemed to\nthink we could not All was peaceful and the peasants who sat with us\nunder the cedars on the borders of the park were friendly and\nunobtrusive Long after sundown we reached far from the regular stage\na lonely pair of houses at one of which we found uncomfortable\naccommodation Fire had to be kindled in the room in a hollow in the\nground there was no ventilation the wood was green the smoke almost\nsuffocating My men talked on far into the night until I lost patience\nand yelled at them in English They thought that I was swearing and\ndesisted for fear that I should injure their ancestors There was a\nshrine in this room for private devotions the corresponding spot in the\nadjoining room being a rough opiumcouch already occupied by two lusty\nthickset slaves to this thriceaccursed drug My men ate the most\nfrugal of suppers Food was so much in advance of its ordinary price\nthat my men in common with thousands of other coolies were doing their\nhard work on starvation rations\n\nOn the 5th we did a long days stage and spent the night at a bleak\nhamlet 8500 feet above sea level in a position so exposed that the\nroofs of the houses were weighted with stones to prevent their being\ncarried away by the wind This was the Temple of the Dragon King and\nit was only twenty li from Tongchuan\n\nNext day we were astir early and soon after daylight we came suddenly to\nthe brow of the tableland overlooking the valley of Tongchuan The\ncompact little walled city with its whitewashed buildings glistening in\nthe morning sun lay beyond the gleaming plats of the irrigated plain\nsnugly ensconced under rolling masses of hills which rose at the far\nend of the valley to lofty mountains covered with snow All the plain is\nwatered with springs large patches of it are under water all the year\nround and rendered thus useless for cultivation are employed by the\nChinese for the artificial rearing of fish and as breeding grounds for\nthe wild duck and the faithful bird the wild goose A narrow dyke\nserpentining across the plain leads into the pretty city where at the\nnortheast angle of the wall I was charmed to find the cheerful home of\nthe Bible Christian Mission consisting of Mr and Mrs Sam Pollard and\ntwo lady assistants one of whom is a countrywoman of my own This is I\nbelieve the most charming spot for a mission station in all China Mr\nPollard is quite a young man full of enthusiasm modest and clever\nEverywhere he is received kindly he is on friendly terms with the\nofficials and there is not a Chinese home within ten miles of the city\nwhere he and his pretty wife are not gladly welcomed His knowledge of\nChinese is exceptional he is the best Chinese scholar in Western China\nand is examiner in Chinese for the distant branches of the Inland\nMission\n\nThe mission in Tongchuan was opened in 1891 and the results are not\ndiscouraging seeing that the Chinaman is as difficult to lead into the\ntrue path as any Jew No native has been baptized up to date The\nconvert employed by the mission as a native helper is one of the three\nconverts of Chaotong He is a brightfaced lad of seventeen as ardent\nan evangelist as heart of missionary could desire but a native preacher\ncan never be so successful as the foreign missionary The Chinese listen\nto him with complacency You eat Jesuss rice and of course you speak\nhis words they say The attitude of the Chinese in Tongchuan towards\nthe Christian missionary is one of perfect friendliness towards the\nmissionary combined with perfect apathy towards his religion Like any\nother trader the missionary has a perfect right to offer his goods\nbut he must not be surprised the Chinese thinks if he finds difficulty\nin securing a purchaser for wares as much inferior to the home\nproduction as is the foreign barbarian to the subject of the Son of\nHeaven\n\nThere is a Catholic Mission in Tongchuan but the priest does not\nassociate with the Protestant How indeed can the two associate when\nthey worship different Gods\n\nThe difficulty is one which cannot be easily overcome while there exists\nin China that bone of contention among missionaries which is known as\nthe Term Question\n\nThe Chinese recognise a supreme God or are believed by some to\nrecognise a supreme GodHigh Heavens ruler _Shangtien hou_ who is\nprobably intended says Williams for the true God The Mohammedans\nwhen they entered China could not recognise this god as identical with\nthe only one God to whom they accordingly gave the Chinese name of\ntrue Lord _Chen Chu_ The Jesuits when they entered China could\nnot recognise either of these gods as identical with the God of the\nHebrews whom they accordingly represented in Chinese first by the\ncharacters for Supreme Ruler _Shang ti_ and subsequently by the\ncharacters for Lord of Heaven _Tien Chu_ The Protestants naturally\ncould not be identified with the Catholics and invented another Chinese\nname or other Chinese names for the true God while the Americans\nsuperior to all other considerations discovered a different name still\nfor the true God to whom they assigned the Chinese characters for the\ntrue Spirit _Chen Shen_ thereby suggesting by implication as Little\nobserves that the other spirits were false But as if such divergent\nterms were not sufficiently confusing for the Chinese the Protestants\nthemselves have still more varied the Chinese characters for God Thus\nin the first translation of the Bible the term for God used is the\nChinese character for Spirit _Shen_ in the second translation this\nterm is rejected and Supreme Ruler _Shang ti_ substituted the\nthird translation reverts to the Spirit the fourth returns to the\nSupreme Ruler and the fifth by Bishop Burdon of Hong Kong and Dr\nBlodget of Peking in 1884 rejects the title that was first accepted by\nthe Jesuits and accepts the title Lord of Heaven _Tien Chu_ that\nwas first rejected by the Jesuits\n\nMany editions says the Rev J Wherry of Peking with other terms\nhave since been published Bible work in particular says the Rev\nMr Muirhead of Shanghai is carried on under no small disadvantage in\nview of this state of things It is true however adds Mr Muirhead\nthat God has blest all terms in spite of our incongruity But\nobviously the Chinese are a little puzzled to know which of the\ncontending gods is most worthy of their allegiance\n\nBut apart from the Term Question there must be irreconcilable\nantagonism between the two great missionary churches in China for it\ncannot be forgotten that in the development of the missionary idea\nthree great tasks await the Protestant Church The second task is\n_to check the schemes of the Jesuit_ In the great work of the worlds\nevangelisation the Church has no foe at all comparable with the\nJesuit Swayed ever by the vicious maxim that the end justifies the\nmeans he would fain put back the shadow of the dial of human progress\nby half a dozen centuries Other forms of superstition and error are\ndangerous but Jesuitism overtops them all and stands forth an\norganised conspiracy against the liberties of mankind This foe is not\nlikely to be overcome by a divided Protestantism If we would conquer in\nthis war we must move together and in our movements must manifest a\npatience a heroism a devotion equal to anything the Jesuit can claim\nThe Rev A Sutherland DD Delegate from Canada to the Missionary\nConference 1888 _Records_ i 145\n\nAnd on the other hand the distracted Chinese reads\nthatProtestantism is not only a veritable Babel but a horrible\ntheory and an immoral practice which blasphemes God degrades man and\nendangers society Cardinal Cuestas Catechism cited in China and\nChristianity by Michie p 8\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XI\n\nTHE CITY OF TONGCHUAN WITH SOME REMARKS UPON INFANTICIDE\n\n\nWhen I entered Tongchuan the town was in commotion kettledrums and\ntomtoms were beating and crackers and guns firing the din and clatter\nwas continuous and deafening An eclipse of the sun was commencingit\nwas the 6th of Aprilthe sun was being swallowed by the Dog of\nHeaven and the noise was to compel the monster to disgorge its prey\nFive months ago the Prefect of the city had been advised of the\nimpending disaster and it was known that at a certain hour he would\npublicly intervene with Heaven to avert from the city the calamity of\ndarkness I myself saw with my own eyes the wonderful power of this man\nThe sun was darkened when I went to the Prefects yamen A crowd was\nalready gathered in the court At the foot of the steps in the open air\na loosely built framework of wood ten feet high was standing displaying\non its vertex a yellow disc of paper inscribed with the characters for\nvoracity\n\nAs we waited the sun became gradually clearer when just as the moon\nwas disappearing across its edge the Prefect in full dress stepped\nfrom his yamen into the court accompanied by the city magistrate and a\ndozen city fathers Every instrument of discord was still clanging over\nthe city Then all these men of weight walked solemnly three times\nround the scaffold and halted three times while the Prefect went down\non his knees and did obeisance with nine kotows to the rickety frame\nand its disc of yellow paper There was almost immediate answer to his\nprayer With a sigh of relief we saw the lingering remnant of darkness\ndisappear and the midday sun shone full and bright Then the Prefect\nretired his suite dividing to let him pass and we all went home\nblessing the good man whose intercession had saved the town from\ndarkness For there can be little doubt I hope that it is due to the\naction of this Prefect that the sun is shining today in Tongchuan The\nChinese might well ask if any barbarian missionary could do as he did\n\nEclipses in China are foretold by the Government almanac published\nannually in Peking by a bureau of astrology attached to the Board of\nRites The almanac is a Government monopoly and any infraction of its\ncopyright is a penal offence It monopolises the management of the\nsuperstitions of the people in regard to the fortunate or unlucky\nconjunctions of each day and hour No one ventures to be without it\nlest he be liable to the greatest misfortunes and run the imminent\nhazard of undertaking important events on blackballed days\n\nThe Chinese almanac is much more comprehensive than ours for even\neclipses are foretold that never happen Should an error take place in\ntheir almanac and an expected eclipse not occur the royal astronomers\nare not disconcertedfar from it they discover in their error reason\nfor rejoicing they then congratulate the Emperor that the heavens have\ndispensed with this omen of illluck in his favour For eclipses\nforebode disaster and every thoughtful Chinaman who has heard of the\npresent rebellion of the Japanese must attribute the reverses caused by\nthe revolt to the eclipse of April 6th occurring immediately before the\ninsurrection\n\nTongchuan is one of the most charming towns I have ever visited it is\nprobably the cleanest city in China and the best governed Its prefect\nis a man of singular enlightenment who rules with a justice that is\nrarely known in China His people regard him as something more than\nmortal Like Confucius his ear is an obedient organ for the reception\nof truth Like the Confucian Superior Man his dignity separates him\nfrom the crowd being reverent he is beloved being loyal he is\nsubmitted to and being faithful he is trusted By his word he directs\nmen and by his conduct he warns them\n\nFor several years he was attached to the Embassy in Japan and he boasts\nthat he has made Tongchuan as clean a city as any to be found in the\nempire of the Mikado The yamen is a model of neatness Painted on the\noutflanking wall there is the usual huge representation of the fabulous\nmonster attempting to swallow the sunthe admonition against\nextortionand probably the only magistrate in China who does not stand\nin need of the warning is the Prefect of Tongchuan\n\nPrices in Tongchuan at the time of my visit were high and food was\nscarce It was difficult to realise that men at that moment were dying\nof starvation in the pretty town Rice cost 400 cash for the same\nquantity that in a good season can be bought for 60 cash maize was 300\ncash the sheng whereas the normal price is only 40 cash Sugar was 15\ncash the cake instead of 6 cash the cake and so on in all things Poppy\nis not grown in the valley to the same extent as hitherto because\npoppy displaces wheat and beans and the people have need of all the\nland they can spare to grow breadstuffs In the other half of the year\nrice maize and tobacco are grown together on the plain and at the\nsame season potatoes oats and buckwheat are grown in the hills\n\nPart of the plain is permanently under water but it was the drought in\nthe winter and the rains in the summer of successive years that caused\nthe famine There are no Mohammedans in the townthere have been none\nsince the rebellionbut there are many small Mohammedan villages across\nthe hills No district in China is now more peaceful than the Valley of\nTongchuan The Yangtse RiverThe River of Golden Sandis only two\ndays distant but it is not navigable even by Chinese boatmen Sugarcane\ngrows in the Yangtse Valley in little pockets and it is from there that\nthe compressed cakes of brown sugar seen in all the markets of Western\nYunnan are brought Coal comes from a mine two or three days inland\nwhitewax trees provide an important industry the hills to the west\ncontain the most celebrated copper mines in the empire\n\nThe cash of Tongchuan are very small and inferior 2000 being equivalent\nto one tael whereas in Chaotong 110 miles away the cash vary from\n1260 to 1640 the tael Before the present Prefect took office the cash\nwere more debased still no less than 4000 being then counted as one\ntael but the Prefect caused all these cash to be withdrawn from\ncirculation\n\nUnlike Chaotong no children are permitted to be sold in the city but\nduring last year no less than 3000 children the figures are again\nChinese were carried through the town on their way from Chaotong to the\ncapital The edict of the Prefect which forbids the selling of children\nincreases the cases of infanticide and in time of famine there are few\nmothers among the starving poor who can truthfully assert that they have\nnever abandoned any of their offspring\n\nThe subject of infanticide in China has been discussed by a legion of\nwriters and observers and the opinion they come to seems to be\ngenerally that the prevalence of the crime except in seasons of famine\nhas been enormously overstated The prevalent idea with us Westerns\nappears to be that the murder of their children especially of their\nfemale children is a kind of national pastime with the Chinese or at\nthe best a national peculiarity Yet it is open to question whether the\ncrime excepting in seasons of famine is in proportion to the\npopulation more common in China than it is in England H A Giles of\nHBM Chinese Consular Service one of the greatest living authorities\non China says I am unable to believe that infanticide prevails to any\ngreat extent in China In times of famine or rebellion under stress\nof exceptional circumstances infanticide may possibly cast its shadow\nover the empire but as a general rule I believe it to be no more\npractised in China than in England France the United States and\nelsewhere _Journal China Branch RAS_ 1885 p 28\n\nG Eugene Simon formerly French Consul in China declares that\ninfanticide is a good deal less frequent in China than in Europe\ngenerally and particularly in France A statement that inferentially\nreceives the support of Dr E J Eitel _China Review_ xvi 189\n\nThe prevailing impression as to the frequency of infanticide in China is\nderived from the statements of missionaries who no doubt\nunintentionally exaggerate the prevalence of the crime in order to\nbring home to us Westerns the deplorable condition of the heathen among\nwhom they are labouring But even among the missionaries the\nstatements are as divergent as they are on almost every other subject\nrelating to China Thus the Rev Griffith John argues from his own\nexperience that infanticide is common all over the Empire the Rev Dr\nEdkins on the other hand says that infanticide is a thing almost\nunknown in Peking And the well known medical missionary Dr Dudgeon\nof Peking who has left the London Mission agrees with another medical\nmissionary Dr Lockhart that infanticide is almost as rare in China\nas in England\n\nThe Rev A H Smith Chinese Characteristics p 207 speaks of the\nenormous infanticide which is known to exist in China The Rev Justus\nDoolittle Social Life of the Chinese ii p 203 asserts that there\nare most indubitable reasons for believing that infanticide is tolerated\nby the Government and that the subject is treated with indifference and\nwith shocking levity by the mass  But Bishop Moule has good reason\nto conclude that the prevalence of the crime has been largely\nexaggerated _Journal China Branch RAS_ _ut supra_\n\nOne of the best known Consuls in China who lately retired from the\nService told the writer that in all his thirty years experience of\nChina he had only had personal knowledge of one authentic case of\ninfanticide\n\nExaggerated estimates respecting the frequency of infanticide says\nthe Rev Dr D J MacGowan are formed owing to the withholding\ninterment from children who die in infancy And he adds that opinions\nof careful observers will be found to vary with fields of observation\n_China Review_ xiv 206\n\nWhatever the relative frequency of infanticide in China and Europe may\nbe it cannot I think admit of question that the crime of infanticide\nis less common among the barbarian Chinese than is the crime of\nfoeticide among the highly civilised races of Europe and America\n\nThere are several temples in Tongchuan and two beyond the walls which\nare of more than ordinary interest There is a Temple to the Goddess of\nMercy where deep reverence is shown to the images of the Trinity of\nSisters They are seated close into the wall the nimbus of glory which\nplays round their impassive features being represented by a golden\naureola painted on the wall The Goddess of Mercy is called by the\nChinese _Shengmu_ or Holy Mother and it is this name which has been\nadopted by the Roman Catholic Church as the Chinese name of the Virgin\nMary\n\nThere is a fine City Temple which controls the spirits of the dead of\nthe city as the yamens of the magistrates control the living of the\ncity The Prefect and the City Magistrate are here shown in their\ncelestial abodes administering justiceor its Chinese equivalentto\nthe spirits who when living were under their jurisdiction on earth\nThey hold the same position in Heaven and have the same authority as\nthey had on earth and may as spirits be bribed to deal gently with\nthe spirits of departed friends just as when living they were open to\noffers to deal leniently with any living prisoner in whose welfare the\nfriends were prepared to express practical sympathy\n\nIn the Buddhist Temple are to be seen in the long side pavilions the\nchambers of horrors with their realistic representations of the torments\nof a soul in its passage through the eight Buddhist hells I looked on\nthese scenes with the calmness of an unbeliever not so a poor woman to\nwhom the horrors were very vivid truths She was on her knees before\nthe grating sobbing piteously at a ghastly scene where a man while\nstill alive was being cast by monsters from a hilltop on to redhot\nspikes there to be torn in pieces by serpents This was the torture her\ndead husband was now enduring it was this stage he had reached in his\nonward passage through hellthe priest had told her so and only money\npaid to the priests could lighten his torment\n\nBeyond the south gate amid groves of lofty pine trees are the temple\nand grounds the pond and senior wrangler bridge of the Confucian\nTemplethe most beautifullyfinished temple I have seen in China We\nhave accustomed ourselves to speak in ecstacies of the woodcarving in\nthe temples of Japan but not even in the Shogun chapels of the Shiba\ntemples in Tokyo have I seen woodcarving superior to the exquisite\ndelicacy of workmanship displayed in the carving of the Imperial dragons\nthat frame with their fantastic coils the large Confucian tablet of this\ntemple Money has been lavished on this building The inclined marble\nslabs that divide the terrace steps are covered with fanciful tracery\nthe parapets of the bridge are chiselled in marble sculptured images of\nelephants with howdahs crown the pillars of the marble balustrades the\nlattice work under the wide eaves is everywhere beautifully carved\nLofty pillars of wood support the temple roofs They are preserved by a\ncoating of hemp and protected against fire by an outer coating of\nplaster stained the colour of the original wood Gilding is used as\nfreely in the decoration of the grand altar and tablets of this temple\nas it is in a temple in Burma\n\nOn a hill overlooking the city and valley is the Temple to the God of\nLiterature The missionary and I climbed to the temple and saw its\npretty court its ancient bronze censer and its many beautiful flowers\nand then sat on the terrace in the sun and watched the picturesque\nvalley spread out before us\n\nAs we descended the hill again a lad who had attached himself to us\noffered to show us the two common pits in which are cast the dead bodies\nof paupers and criminals The pits are at the foot of the hill\nopenmouthed in the uncut grass With famine in the city with people\ndying at that very hour of starvation there was no lack of dead and\nboth pits were filled to within a few feet of the surface Bodies are\nthrown in here without any covering and hawks and crows strip them of\ntheir flesh a mode of treating the dead grateful to the Parsee but\ninexpressibly hateful to the Chinese whose poverty must be overwhelming\nwhen he can be found to permit it Pigtails were lying carelessly about\nand skulls separated from the trunk Human bones gnawed by dogs were to\nbe picked up in numbers in the long grass all round the hill they were\nthe bones of the dead who had been loosely buried close to the surface\nthrough which dogsthe domestic dogs one met afterwards in the\nstreethad scraped their way Many too were the bones of dead\nchildren for poor children are not buried but are thrown outside the\nwall sometimes before they are dead to be eaten perhaps by the very\ndog that was their playmate since birth\n\nI called upon the French priest Pere Maire and he came with much\ncordiality to the door of the mission to receive me His is a pretty\nmission built in the Chinese style with a modest little church and a\nnice garden and summerhouse The father has been four years in\nTongchuan and ten in China Like most of the French priests in China he\nhas succeeded in growing a prodigious beard whose imposing length adds\nto his influence among the Chinese who are apt to estimate age by the\nlength of the beard Only three weeks ago he returned from the capital\nSigns of famine were everywhere apparent The weather was very cold and\nthe road in many places deeply covered with snow Riding on his mule he\npassed at different places on the wayside eight bodies all recently\ndead from hunger and cold No school is attached to the mission but\nthere is an _orphelinat_ of little girls _ramassees dans les rues_ who\nhad been cast away by their parents they are in charge of Chinese\nCatholic nuns and will be reared as nuns As we sat in the pavilion in\nthe garden and drank wine sent to him by his brother in Bordeauxtrue\nFrench winethe priest had many things to tell me of interest of the\nnative rebellion on the frontier of Tonquin of the mission of Monsieur\nHaas to Chungking and the Thibetan trade in tea The Chinese ah yes\nHe loves the Chinese because he loves all Gods creatures but they are\nliars and thieves Many families are converted but even the Christians\nare never Christian till the third generation These were his words\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XII\n\nTONGCHUAN TO YUNNAN CITY\n\n\nFrom Tongchuan to Yunnan city the provincial seat of Government and\nofficial residence of the Viceroy whither I was now bound is a\ndistance of two hundred miles My two carriers from Chaotong had been\nengaged to go with me only as far as Tongchuan but they now reengaged\nto go with Laohwan my third man as far as the capital The conditions\nwere that they were to receive _6s 9d_ each 225 taels one tael\n_3s_ to be paid in advance and the balance on arrival and they were\nto do the distance in seven days The two taels they asked the\nmissionary to remit to their parents in Chaotong and he promised to\nreceive the money from me and do so There was no written agreement of\nany kindnone of the three men could read they did not even see the\nmoney that the missionary was to get for them but they had absolute\nconfidence in our good faith\n\nI had a mule with me from Tongchuan to Yunnan which saved me many miles\nof walking and increased my importance in the eyes of the heathen I\nwas taking it to the capital for sale It was a bigboned roughhewn\nanimal of superior intelligence and I was authorised to sell it\ntogether with its saddle and bridle for four pounds Like most Chinese\nmules it had two corns on the forelegs and thus could see at night\nEvery Chinaman knows that the corns are adventitious eyes which give the\nmule this remarkable power\n\nWe were on our way early in the afternoon of the 7th going up the\nvalley Below the curiously draped pagoda which commands Tongchuan we\nmet two pairs of prisoners who were being led into the city under\nescort They were coupled by the neck they were suffering cruelly for\ntheir wrists were so tightly manacled that their hands were\nstrangulated a mode of torture to which it will be remembered the\nChinese Government in 1860 subjected Bowlby the _Times_ correspondent\nand the other prisoners seized with him in treacherous violation of a\nflag of truce till death ended their sufferings These men were\nroadside robbers caught redhanded Their punishment would be swift and\ncertain Found guilty on their own confession either tendered\nvoluntarily to escape torture or under the compulsion of torture\nselfaccusation wrested from their agony they would be sentenced to\ndeath carried in baskets without delayif they had not previously\ndied in prisondied that is from the torture having been pushed too\nfarto the execution ground and there beheaded\n\nWe stopped at an inn that was not the ordinary stage where in\nconsequence we had few comforts In the morning my men lay in bed till\nlate and when I called them they opened the door and pointed to the\nroad clearly indicating that rain had fallen and that the roads were\ntoo slippery for traffic But what was my surprise on looking myself to\nfind the whole country deeply under snow and that it was still snowing\nAll day indeed it snowed The track was very slippery but my mule\nthough obstinate was surefooted and we kept going We passed a huge\ncoffinborne by a dozen men with every gentleness not to disturb the\ndead ones restpreceded not followed by mourners two of whom were\ncarrying a paper sedan chair which would be burnt and so rendered\ninvisible would be sent to the invisible world to bear the dead mans\nspirit with becoming dignity All day we were in the mountains\ntravelling up the bed of a creek with mountains on both sides of us We\npassed Chehki ninety li from Tongchuan and thirty li further were glad\nto escape from the cold and snow to the shelter of a poor thatched mud\ninn where we rested for the night\n\nA humpback was in charge The only bedroom was half open to the sky\nbut the main room was still whole though it had seen better days There\nwas a shrine in this room with ancestral tablets and a sheet of\nmanyfeatured gods conspicuous amongst them being the God of Riches\nwho had been little attentive to the prayers offered him in this poor\nhamlet In a stall adjoining our bedroom the mule was housed and\njingled his bell discontentedly all through the night A poor man\nnearly blind with acute inflammation of the eyes was shivering over the\nscanty embers of an open fire which was burning in a square hole scooped\nin the earthern floor near the doorway He ate the humblest dishful of\nmaize husks and meal strainings That night I wondered did he sleep out\nin the open under a hedge or did the inn people give him shelter with\nmy mule in the next room My men and I had to sleep in the same room\nThey were still on short rations They ate only twice a day and then\nsparingly of maize and vegetables they took but little rice and no\ntea and only a very small allowance of pork once in two days Food was\nvery dear and though they were receiving nearly double wages to carry\nhalfloads they must needs be careful What admirable fellows they\nwere In all my wanderings I have never travelled with more goodnatured\ncompanions The attendant Laohwan was a powerful Chinese solid and\ndetermined but courteous in manner voluble of speech but with an\namusing stammer he had a wide experience of travel in Western China He\nseemed to enjoy his journeyhe never appeared lovesick but of course\nI had no means of asking if he felt keenly the long separation from his\nbride\n\nAt the inn there was no bedding for my men they had to cover\nthemselves as best they could with some pieces of felt brought them by\nthe hunchback and sleep all huddled together from the cold They had a\nfew hardships to put up with but their lot was a thousand times better\nthan that of hundreds of their countrymen who were dying from hunger as\nwell as from cold\n\nOn the 9th as I was riding on my mule up the mountain road with the\nbleak bare mountain tops on every side I was watching an eagle\ncircling overhead when my men called out to me excitedly and pointed to\na large wolf that leisurely crossed the path in front of us and slunk\nover the brow It had in its mouth a haunch of flesh torn from some poor\nwretch who had perished during the night This was the only wolf I saw\non my journey though they are numerous in the province Last year not\ntwenty li from Chaotong a little girl of four the only child of the\nmission cook was killed by a wolf in broad daylight before its mothers\neyes while playing at the cabin door\n\nAgain today I passed a humpbacked dwarf on the hills making his\nsolitary way towards Tongchuan and I afterwards saw others an\nindication of the prosperity that had left the district for in time of\nfamine no child who was badly deformed at birth would be suffered to\nlive\n\nWe stopped the night at Leitoupo and next day from the bleak tableland\nhigh among the mountains where the wind whistled in our faces we\ngradually descended into a country of trees and cultivation and\nfertility We left the bare red hills behind us and came down into a\nbeautiful glade with pretty streams running in pebbly beds past\nterraced banks At a village among the trees where the houses made some\npretension to comfort and where poppies with brilliantly coloured\nflowers encroached upon the street itself we rested under a sunshade\nin front of a teahouse A pretty rill of mountain water ran at our feet\nGood tea was brought us in new clean cups and a sweetmeat of peanuts\nset in sugarlike almond toffee The teahouse was filled In the midst\nof the tea drinkers a man was lying curled on a mat a bent elbow his\npillow and fast asleep with the opium pipe still beside him and the\nlamp still lit A pretty little girl from the adjoining cottage came\nshyly out to see me I called her to me and gave her some sweetmeat I\nwished to put it in her mouth but she would not let me and ran off\nindoors I looked into the room after her and saw her father take the\nlolly from her and give it to her fat little baby brother who seemed\nthe best fed urchin in the town But I stood by and saw justice done\nand saw the little maid of four enjoy the first luxury of her lifetime\nGirls in China early learn that they are at best only necessary evils\nto be endured as tradition says Confucius taught only as the possible\nmothers of men Yet the condition of women in China is far superior to\nthat in any other heathen country Monogamy is the rule in China\npolygamy is the exception being confined to the three classes the\nrich the officials and those who can by effort afford to take a\nsecondary wife their first wife having failed to give birth to a son\n\nIt is impossible to read the combined experiences of many missionaries\nand travellers in China without forming the opinion that the condition\nof women in China is as nearly satisfactory as could be hoped for in a\nkingdom of civilised and organised heathenism as the Rev C W\nMateer terms it The lot of the average Chinese woman is certainly not\none that a Western woman need envy She cannot enjoy the happiness which\na Western woman does but she is happy in her own way nevertheless\nHappiness does not always consist in absolute enjoymentbut in the\nidea which we have formed of it\n\nThere was no impertinent curiosity to see the stranger The people in\nYunnan seem cowed and crushed That arrogance which characterises the\nChinese elsewhere is entirely wanting here They have seen the horrors\nof rebellion and civil war of battle murder and sudden death of\ndevastation by the sword famine ruin and misery They are resigned\nand spiritless But their friendliness is charming their courtesy and\nkindliness is a constant delight to the traveller At meal time you are\nalways pressed to join the table in the same manner and with the\nidentical phrases still used by the Spaniards but the request is one of\npoliteness only and like the _quiere Vd gustar_ is not meant to be\naccepted\n\nWe continued on our way Comparatively few coolies now met us and the\nmajority of those who did were travelling emptyhanded but there were\nmany ponies and mules coming from the capital laden with tea and with\nblocks of white salt like marble Every here and there a rude shelter\nwas erected by the wayside where a dish of cabbage and herbs could be\nobtained which you ate out of cracked dishes at an improvised bench\nmade from a coffin board resting on two stones Towards sundown we\nentered the village of Kongshan a pretty place on the hill slope with\nviews across a fertile hollow that was pleasant to see Here we found an\nexcellent inn with good quarters Our days journey was thirtyseven\nmiles of which I walked fifteen miles and rode twentytwo miles We\nwere travelling quickly Distances in China are at first very\nconfusing They differ from ours in a very important particular they\nare not fixed quantities they vary in length according to the nature of\nthe ground passed over Inequalities increase the distance thus it by\nno means follows that the distance from A to B is equal to the distance\nfrom B to Ait may be fifty per cent or one hundred per cent longer\nThe explanation is simple Distance is estimated by time and speaking\nroughly ten li 313 miles is the unit of distance equivalent to an\nhours journey Sixty li still to go means six hours journey before\nyou it may be uphill all the way If you are returning downhill you\nneed not be surprised to learn that the distance by the same road is\nonly thirty li\n\nTonight before turning in I looked in to see how my mule was faring He\nwas standing in a crib at the foot of some underground stairs with a\nhuge horse trough before him the size and shape of a Chinese coffin He\nwas peaceful and meditative When he saw me he looked reproachfully at\nthe cut straw heaped untidily in the trough and then at me and asked\nas clearly as he could if that was a reasonable ration for a\nhighspirited mule who had carried my honourable person up hill and\ndown dale over steep rocks and by tortuous paths a long spring day in\na warm sun Alas I had nothing else to offer him unless I gave him the\nuncut straw that was stitched into our paillasses What straw was before\nhim was Chinese chaff cut into threeinch lengths by a long knife\nworked on a pivot and board like the tobacco knife of civilisation And\nhe had to be content with that or nothing\n\nNext day we had an early start soon after sunrise It was a lovely day\nwith a gentle breeze blowing and a cloudless sky The village of\nKongshan was a very pretty place It was built chiefly on two sides of\na main road which was as rugged as the dry bed of a mountain creek The\nhouses were better and the inns were again provided with heaps of\nbedding at the doorways Advertisement bills in blue and red were\ndisplayed on the lintels and doorposts while fierce doorgods guarded\nagainst the admission of evil spirits Brave indeed must be the spirits\nwho venture within reach of such fierce bearded monsters armed with\nsuch desperate weapons as were here represented I stood on the edge of\nthe town overlooking the valley while my mule was being saddled Patches\nof wheat and beans were scattered among fields of whiteflowered poppy\nCoolies carrying double buckets of water were winding up the sinuous\npath from the border of the garden where a pebbled brook laughs upon\nits way Boys were shouting to frighten away the sparrows from the\nnewlysown rice beds while women were moving on their little feet among\nthe poppies scoring anew the capsules and gathering the juice that had\nexuded since yesterday Down the road coolies were filing laden with\ntheir heavy burdensa long days toil before them rude carts were\nlumbering past me drawn by oxen and jolting on wheels that were solid\nbut not circular Then the mule was brought to me and we went on\nthrough an avenue of trees that were half hidden in showers of white\nroses by hedges of roses in full bloom and wayside flowers daisies and\nviolets dandelions and forgetmenots a pretty sight all fresh and\nsparkling in the morning sun\n\nWe went on in single file my two coolies first with their light loads\nthat swung easily from their shoulders then myself on the mule and\nlast my stalwart attendant Laohwan with his superior dress his huge sun\nhat his long pipe and umbrella A man of unusual endurance was\nLaohwan The days journey donehe always arrived the freshest of the\npartyhe had to get ready my supper make my bed and look after my\nmule He was always the last to bed and the first to rise Long before\ndaybreak he was about again attending to the mule and preparing my\nporridge and eggs for breakfast He thought I liked my eggs hard and\neach morning construed my look of remonstrance into one of approbation\nIt is very true of the Chinaman that precedent determines his action\nThe first morning Laohwan boiled the eggs hard and I could not reprove\nhim Afterwards of course he made a point of serving me the eggs every\nmorning in the same way I could say in Chinese I dont like them but\nthe morning I said so Laohwan applied my dislike to the eggs not to\ntheir condition of cooking and saying in Chinese good good he\nobligingly ate them for me\n\nLeaving the valley we ascended the red incline to an open tableland\nwhere the soil is arid and yields but a reluctant and scanty harvest\nNothing obstructs the view and you can see long distances over the\ndowns which are bereft of all timber except an occasional clump of\npines that the axe has spared because of the beneficial influence the\ngeomancers declare they exercise over the neighbourhood The roadway in\nplaces is cut deeply into the ground for the path worn by the\nattrition of countless feet soon becomes a waterchannel and the roadway\nin the rains is often the bed of a rapid stream At short intervals are\nvast numbers of grave mounds with tablets and arched gables of well\ndressed stone No habitations of the living are within miles of them a\nforcible illustration of the devastation that has ravaged the district\nThis was still the famine district In the open uncultivated fields\nwomen were searching for weeds and herbs to save them from starvation\ntill the ingathering of the winter harvest Their children it was\npitiful to see It is rare for Australians to see children dying of\nhunger These poor creatures with their pinched faces and fleshless\nbones were like the patient with typhoid fever who has long been\nhovering between life and death There were no beggars All the beggars\nwere dead long ago All through the famine district we were not once\nsolicited for either food or money but those who were still living were\ncrying for alms with silent voices a hundred times more appealing When\nwe rested to have tea the poor children gathered round to see us\nskeletons dressed in skins and rags yet meekly independent and\nfriendly Their parents were covered with ragged garments that hardly\nheld together Many wore over their shoulders rude grass cloths made\nfrom pine fibre that appear to be identical with the native petticoats\nworn by the women of New Guinea\n\nLeaving the poor upland behind us we descended to a broad and fertile\nplain where the travelling was easy and passed the night in a large\nMoslem inn in the town of Iangkai\n\nAll next day we pursued our way through fertile fields flanked by pretty\nhills which it was hard to realise were the peaks of mountains 10000\nto 11000 feet above sealevel Before sundown we reached the prosperous\nmarket town of Yanglin where I had a clean upstairs room in an\nexcellent inn The wall of my bedroom was scrawled over in Chinese\ncharacters with what I was told were facetious remarks by Chinese\ntourists on the quality of the fare\n\nIn the evening my mule was sick Laohwan said and a veterinary surgeon\nhad to be sent for He came with unbecoming expedition Then in the same\nway that I have seen the Chinese doctors in Australia diagnose the\nailments of their human patients of the same great family he examined\nthe poor mule with the inscrutable air of one to whom are unveiled the\nmysteries of futurity and he retired with his fee The medicine came\nlater in a large basket and consisted of an assortment of herbs so\nvaried that one at least might be expected to hit the mark My Laohwan\npaid the mule doctor so he said for advice and medicine 360 cash\nninepence an exorbitant charge as prices are in China\n\nOn Friday April 13th we had another pleasant day in open country\nleading to the low rim of hills that border the plain and lake of Yunnan\ncity Ruins everywhere testify to the march of the rebellion of thirty\nyears agotriumphal arches in fragments broken temples battered idols\ndestroyed by Mohammedan iconoclasts Districts destitute of habitations\nwhere a thriving population once lived attest that suppression of a\nrebellion in China spells extermination to the rebels\n\nOn the road I met a case of goitre and byandby others till I counted\ntwenty or more and then remembered that I was now entering on a\ndistrict of Asia extending over Western Yunnan into Thibet Burma the\nShan States and Siam the prevailing deformity of whose people is\ngoitre\n\nIllustration THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY\n\nTen miles before Yunnan my men led me off the road to a fine building\namong the poplars which a large monogram on the gateway told me was the\nCatholic College of the _Missions Etrangeres de Paris_ known throughout\nthe Province as Jinmaasuh Situated on rising ground the plain of\nYunnan widening before it the College commands a distant view of the\nwalls and turretted gateways the pagodas and lofty temples of the\nfamous city Chinese students are trained here for the priesthood At\nthe time of my visit there were thirty students in residence who after\ntheir ordination will be scattered as evangelists throughout the\nProvince Pere Excoffier was at home and received me with\ncharacteristic courtesy His news was many weeks later than mine M\nGladstone had retired from the Premiership and M Rosebery was his\nsuccessor England had determined to renew the payment of the tribute\nwhich China formerly exacted by right of suzerainty from Burma The\nChinese were daily expecting the arrival of two white elephants from\nBurma which were coming in charge of the British Resident in Singai\nBhamo M Warry as a present to the Emperor and were the official\nrecognition by England that Burma is still a tributary of the Middle\nKingdom I may here say that I often heard of this tribute in Western\nChina The Chinese had been long waiting for the arrival of the\nelephants with their yellow flags floating from the howdahs\nannouncing as did the flags of Lord Macartneys Mission to Peking\nTribute from the English to the Emperor of China and I suppose that\nthere are governments idiotic enough to thus pander to Chinese\narrogance No doubt what has given rise to the report is the knowledge\nthat the Government of India is bound under the Convention of 1886 to\nsend every ten years a complimentary mission from the Chief\nCommissioner of Burma to the Viceroy of Yunnan\n\nIt was late when I left Jinmaasuh and long after sundown before I\nreached the city The flagged causeway across the plain was slippery to\nwalk on and my mule would not agree with me that there was any need to\nhurry He knew the Chinese character better than I did Gunfire the\nsignal for the closing of the gates had sounded when we were two miles\nfrom the wall but sentries are negligent in China and the gates were\nstill open Had we been earlier we should have entered by the south\ngate which is always the most important of the gates of a Chinese city\nand the one through which all officials make their official entry but\nunable to do this we entered by the big east gate Turning sharply to\nthe right along the city wall we were conducted in a few minutes to the\nTelegraph Offices where I received a cordial welcome from Mr Christian\nJensen the superintendent of telegraphs in the two great provinces of\nYunnan and Kweichow These are his headquarters and here I was to rest\na delightful week It was a pleasant change from silence to speech from\nChinese discomfort to European civilisation Chinese fare one evening\npork rice tea and beans and the next chicken and the famed Shuenwei\nham mutton and green peas and red currant jelly pancakes and\naboriginal Yunnan cheese claret champagne port and cordial Medoc\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIII\n\nAT YUNNAN CITY\n\n\nYunnan City is one of the great cities of China not so much in size as\nin importance It is within easy access at all seasons of the year of\nthe French colony of Tonquin whereas the trade route from here to\nBritish Burma is long arduous and mountainous and in its Western\nportions is closed to traffic during the rains From Yunnan City to\nMungtze on the borders of Tonquin where there is a branch of the\nImperial Maritime Customs of China is a journey of eight days over an\neasy road Four days from Mungtze is Laokai on the Red River a river\nwhich is navigable by boat or steamer to Hanoi the chief river port of\nTonquin In the middle of 1889 the French river steamer _Le Laokai_\nmade the voyage from Hanoi to Laokai in sixty hours\n\nFrom Yunnan City to Bhamo on the Irrawaddy in British Burma is a\ndifficult journey of thirtythree stages over a mountainous road which\ncan never by any human possibility be made available for other traffic\nthan caravans of horses or coolies on foot The natural highway of\nCentral and Southern Yunnan is by Tonquin and no artificial means can\never alter it At present Eastern Yunnan sends her trade through the\nprovinces of Kweichow and Hunan to the Yangtse above Hankow or via the\ntwo Kuangs to Canton Shortness of distance combined with facility of\ntransport must soon tap this trade or divert it into the highways of\nTonquin Northern Yunnan must send her produce and receive her imports\nvia Szechuen and the Yangtse As for the trade of Szechuen the richest\nof the provinces of China no man can venture to assert that any other\ntrade route exists or can ever be made to exist than the River\nYangtse and all the French Commissioners in the world can no more alter\nthe natural course of this trade than they can change the channel of the\nYangtse itself\n\nI am not of course the first distinguished visitor who has been in\nYunnan City Marco Polo was here in 1283 and has left on record a\ndescription of the city which in his time was known by the name of\nYachi Jesuit missionaries have been propagating the faith in the\nprovince since the seventeenth century But the distinction of being the\nfirst European traveller not a missionary priest to visit the city\nsince the time of Marco Polo rests with Captain Doudart de la Gree of\nthe French Navy who was here in 1867\n\nMargary the British Consul who met a cruel death at Manwyne passed\nthrough Yunnan in 1875 on his famous journey from Hankow and two years\nlater the tardy mission under Grosvenor with the brilliant Baber as\ninterpreter and Li Han Chang the brother of Li Hung Chang as delegate\nfor the Chinese arrived here in the barren hope of bringing his\nmurderers to justice\n\nHosie formerly HBM Consul in Chungking and well known as a\ntraveller in Western China was in Yunnan City in 1882\n\nIn September 1890 Bonvalot and Prince Henri dOrleans stopped here at\nthe French Mission on their way to Mungtze in Tonquin It was on the\ncompletion of their journey along the eastern edge of _Tibet\nInconnu_Unknown Thibet as they term it although the whole route\nhad been traversed time and again by missionary priests a journey whose\nsuccess was duethough few have ever heard his nameto its true\nleader interpreter and guide the brave Dutch priest from Kuldja Pere\nDedeken\n\nAnother famous missionary traveller Pere Vial who led Colquhoun out of\nhis difficulty in that journey Across Chryse which Colquhoun\ndescribes as a Journey of Exploration though it was through a country\nthat had been explored and accurately mapped a century and a half before\nby Jesuit missionaries and conducted him in safety to Bhamo in Burma\nhas often been in Yunnan City and is a possible successor to the\nBishopric\n\nM Boell who left the Secretaryship of the French Legation in Peking to\nbecome the special correspondent of _Le Temps_ was here in 1892 on his\nway from Kweiyang in Kweichow to Tonquin and a few months later\nCaptain dAmade the Military Secretary of the French Legation\ncompleted a similar journey from Chungking In May 1892 the\nCommissioner from the French Government opium farm in Hanoi M Tomme\narrived in Yunnan City from Mungtze sent by his Government in search of\nimproved methods of poppy cultivationthe Yunnan opium with the\nexception of the Shansi opium being probably the finest in China\nFinally in May 1893 Lenz the American bicyclist to the profound\namazement of the populace rode on his living wheel to the\n_Yesutang_ This was the most remarkable journey of all Lenz\npractically walked across China surmounting hardships and dangers that\nfew men would venture to face I often heard of him He stayed at the\nmission stations All the missionaries praise his courage and endurance\nand the admirable good humour with which he endured every discomfort\nBut one missionary lamented to me that Lenz did not possess that close\nacquaintance with the Bible which was to be expected of a man of his\nhardihood It seems that at family prayers at this good missionarys\nthe chapter for reading was given out when poor Lenz was discovered\nfeverishly seeking the Epistle to the Galatians in the Old Testament\nWhen his mistake was gently pointed out to him he was not discouraged\nfar from it it was the missionary who was dismayed to hear that in the\nUnited States this particular Epistle is always reckoned a part of the\nPentateuch\n\nI paid an early visit of courtesy to my nominal host Li Pi Chang the\nChinese manager of the Telegraphs He received me in his private office\ngave me the best seat on the left and handed me tea with his own fat\nhands A mandarin whose rank is above that of an expectant Taotai Li is\nto be the next Taotai of Mungtze where from an official salary of 400\ntaels per annum he hopes to save from 10000 to 20000 taels per annum\n\nSqueezing as this method of enrichment is termed is you see not\nconfined to America Few arts indeed seem to be more widely\ndistributed than the art of squeezing Dives the taxdodger is as\ncommon in China as he is in the United States Compare however any\ncity in China in the midst of the most ancient civilisation in the\nworld with a city like Chicago which claims to have reached the\nhighest development of modern civilisation and it would be difficult to\nassert that the condition of public morals in the heathen city was even\ncomparable with the corruption and sin of the American city a city\nnominally Christian which is studded with churches and littered with\nBibles but still a city where perjury is a protected industry No\ncommunity is more ardent in its evangelisation of the perishing\nChinese than Chicago but where in all China is there such a supreme\nembodiment of fraud falsehood and injustice as prevails in Chicago\nAn alderman in Chicago Mr Stead tells us p 172 _et seq_ receives\nonly 156 dollars a year salary but in addition to his salary he\nenjoys practically unrestricted liberty to fill his pockets by\nbartering away the property of the city It is expected of the\nalderman as a fundamental principle that he will steal and in a\nfruitful year says the _Record_ the average crooked alderman makes\n15000 to 20000 dollars An assessorship in Chicago is worth nominally\n1500 dollars per annum but everyone knows that in Chicago an\nassessorship is the shortest cut to fortune\n\nSqueezing in China may be common but it is a humble industry compared\nwith the monumental swindling which Mr Stead describes as existing in\nChicago\n\nBesides being manager in Yunnan City Li is the chief telegraph director\nof the two provinces of Yunnan and Kweichow That he is entirely\ninnocent of all knowledge of telegraphy or of the management of\ntelegraphs is no bar to such an appointment He is a mandarin and is\ntherefore presumably fitted to take any position whatever whether it\nbe that of Magistrate or Admiral of the Fleet Collector of Customs or\nGeneral commanding in the field Of the mandarin in China it is truly\nsaid that there is nothing he isnt\n\nLi is also Chief Secretary of the _ShanhaoTsungKuh_ The Supreme\nBoard of Reorganisation of the province the members of which are the\nfour highest provincial officials next below the Governor\n_Futai_viz the Treasurer _Fantai_ Provincial Judge _Niehtai_\nthe Salt Comptroller and the Grain Intendant\n\nLi it may be said at once is a man of no common virtue He is the\nfather of seven sons and four daughters he can die in peace in his\nfamily there is no fear of the early extinction of male descendants for\nthe succession is as well provided against as it is in the most fertile\nRoyal family in Europe His family is far spreading and it is worth\nnoting as an instance of the patriarchal nature of the family in China\nthat Li is regarded as the father of a family whose members dependent\nupon him for entire or partial support number eighty persons He has had\nthree wives His number one wife still lives at the family seat in\nChangsha another secondary wife is dead his present number two wife\nlives with him in Yunnan This is his favourite wife and her story is\nworth a passing note She was not a funded houri but a poor _yatow_\na forked head or slave girl whom he purchased on a lucky day and\nsmitten with her charms made her his wife It was a case of love at\nfirst sight Her conduct since marriage has more than justified the\nchoice of her master Still a young woman she has already presented her\nlord with nine children on the last occasion surpassing herself by\ngiving birth to twins She has a most pleasant face and really charming\nchildren but the chief attraction of a Chinese lady is absent in her\ncase Her feet are of natural size and not even in the exaggerated\nmurmurings of love could her husband describe them as threeinch gold\nlilies\n\nThat this was a marriage of inclination there can be no doubt whatever\nIt is idle to argue that the Chinese are an unemotional people\nincapable of feeling the same passions that move us We ridicule the\nimage of a Chinaman languishing in love just as the Chinaman derides\nthe possibility of experiencing the feelings of love for the average\nforeign woman he has seen in China Their poetry abounds in love\nepisodes Students of Chinese civilisation seem to agree that a _mariage\nde convenance_ in China is more likely even than on the Continent to\nbecome instantly a marriage of affection The pleasures of female\nsociety are almost denied the Chinaman he cannot fall in love before\nmarriage because of the absence of an object for his love The faculty\nof love produces a subjective ideal and craves for a corresponding\nobjective reality And the longer the absence of the objective reality\nthe higher the ideal becomes as in the mind of the hungry man ideal\nfoods get more and more exquisite\n\nIn Meadows Essay on Civilisation in China there is a charming story\ntranslated from the Chinese of love at first sight given in\nillustration of the authors contention that it is the men to whom\nwomens society is almost unknown that are most apt to fall violently in\nlove at first sight Violent love at first sight is a general\ncharacteristic of nations where the sexes have no intercourse before\nmarriage The starved cravings of love devour the first object\n\nA Chinese who had suffered bitter disenchantments in marriage retired\nwith his infant son to the solitude of a mountain inaccessible for\nlittlefooted Chinese women He trained up the youth to worship the gods\nand stand in awe and abhorrence of devils but he never mentioned even\nthe name of woman to him He always descended to market alone but when\nhe grew old and feeble he was at length compelled to take the young man\nwith him to carry the heavy bag of rice He very reasonably argued I\nshall always accompany my son and take care that if he does see a\nwoman by chance he shall never speak to one he is very obedient he\nhas never heard of woman he does not know what they are and as he has\nlived in that way for twenty years already he is of course now pretty\nsafe\n\nAs they were on the first occasion leaving the market town together\nthe son suddenly stopped short and pointing to three approaching\nobjects inquired Father what are these things Look look what are\nthey The father hastily answered Turn away your head They are\ndevils The son in some alarm instantly turned away from things so\nbad and which were gazing at his motions with surprise from under their\nfans He walked to the mountain top in silence ate no supper and from\nthat day lost his appetite and was afflicted with melancholy For some\ntime his anxious and puzzled parent could get no satisfactory answer to\nhis inquiries but at length the poor young man burst out almost crying\nfrom an inexplicable pain Oh father that tallest devil that tallest\ndevil father\n\nGirls for Yunnan City are bought at two chief centresat Chaotong as\nwe have seen and at Bichih They are carried to the city in baskets\nThey are rarely sold into prostitution but are bought as slave girls\nfor domestic service as concubines and occasionally as wives Their\ngreat merit is the absence of the thickneck goitre\n\nThe morning after my visit Li sent me his card together with a leg of\nmutton and a pile of sweet cakes I returned my card and gave the\nbearer 200 cash fivepence not as a return gift to the mandarin but\nas a private act of generosity to his servantall this being in\naccordance with Chinese etiquette\n\nMy host in Yunnan and the actual manager and superintendent of the\ntelegraphs of the two provinces is a clever Danish gentleman Mr\nChristian Jensen an accomplished linguist to whom every European\nresident and traveller in the province is indebted for a thousand acts\nof kindness and attention He has a rare knowledge of travel in China\nMr Jensen arrived in China in 1880 in the service of the Great Northern\nTelegraph Companya Danish company From December 1881 when the first\nChinese telegraph line was opened that from Shanghai to Tientsin till\nthe spring of 1883 he was one of eight operatives and engineers lent by\nthe Company to the Chinese Government In December 1883 having returned\nin the meantime to the Great Northern he accepted an engagement under\nthe Imperial Government and he has been in their employ ever since\nDuring this time he has superintended the construction of 7000 li 2350\nmiles of telegraph lines and it was he who on the 20th May 1890\neffected the junction of the Chinese system with the French lines at\nLaokai Among the more important lines constructed by him are those\njoining the two capital cities of the provinces of Yunnan and Kweichow\nthat from Yunnan City to Mungtze on the frontier of Tonquin that from\nCanton to the boundary of Fuhkien province and that from Yunnan City\nthrough Tali to Tengyueh Momien this last line being the one which\nwill eventually unite with the marvellous Indian telegraph system at the\nBurmese frontier In the course of his many journeys through China Mr\nJensen has been invariably well treated by the Chinese and it is\npleasant to hear one who has seen so much of the inner life of the\ncountry speak as he does of the universal courtesy and hospitality\nattention and kindness that has been shown him by all classes of\nChinese from the highest officials to the humblest coolies\n\nIllustration VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY\n\nMany interesting episodes have marked his stay in China Once when\nrepairing the line from Pase in Kwangsi to Mungtze during the rainy\nseason of 1889 fiftysix out of sixty men employed by him died of what\nthere can be little doubt was the same plague that has lately devastated\nHong Kong On this occasion of twelve men who at different times were\nemployed as his chairbearers all died\n\nIn October 1886 he came to Yunnan City and made this his\nheadquarters He has always enjoyed good health\n\nOne of the chief difficulties that formerly impeded the extension of the\ntelegraph in China was the belief that the telegraph poles spoil the\n_fungshui_in other words that they divert good luck from the\ndistricts they pass through This objection has been everywhere\novercome It last revealed itself in the extreme west of the line from\nYunnan Villagers who saw in the telegraph a menace to the good fortune\nof their district would cut down the polesand sell the wire in\ncompensation for their trouble The annoyance had to be put a stop to\nAn energetic magistrate took the matter in hand He issued a warning to\nthe villagers but his warning was unheeded Then he took more vigorous\nmeasures The very next case that occurred he had two men arrested and\ncharged with the offence They were probably innocent but under the\npersuasion of the bamboo they were induced to acquiesce in the\nmagistrates opinion as to their guilt They were sentenced to be\ndeprived of their ears and then they were sent on foot that all might\nsee them under escort along the line from Yunnan City to Tengyueh and\nback again No poles have been cut down since\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIV\n\nGOLD BANKS AND TELEGRAPHS IN YUNNAN\n\n\nYunnan City is the great gold emporium of China for most of the gold\nfound in China comes from the province of which it is the capital When\na rich Chinaman returns from Yunnan to another province or is summoned\non a visit to the Emperor at Peking he carries his money in gold not\nsilver Gold leaf sent from Yunnan gilds the gods of Thibet and the\ntemples and pagodas of IndoChina No caravan returns to Burma from\nWestern China whose spare silver has not been changed into gold leaf In\nthe Arracan Temple in Mandalay as in the Shwaydagon Pagoda in Rangoon\nyou see the gold leaf that Yunnan produces and in the future will\nproduce in infinitely greater quantities\n\nGold comes chiefly from the mines of Talang eighteen days journey by\nland SW from Yunnan City on the confines of the district which\nproduces the famous Puerh tea The yield must be a rich one despite the\nineffective appliances that are employed in its extraction Gold has\nalways been abundant in this province at the time of Marco Polos visit\nit was so abundant that its value in relation to silver was only as one\nto six\n\nWhen gold is worth in Shanghai 35 times its weight in silver it may be\nbought in Yunnan City or Talifu for from 25 to 275 times its weight in\nsilver and in quantities up to hundreds of ounces To remit silver by\ntelegraphic transfer from Shanghai or Hong Kong to Yunnan city costs six\nper cent and either of the two leading banks in the city will\nnegotiate the transfer from their agents at the seaports of any amount\nup to 10000 ounces of silver in a single transaction The gold can\nalways be readily sold in Shanghai or Hong Kong and the only risk is in\nthe carriage of the gold from the inland city to the seaport So far as\nI could learn no gold thus sent has gone astray It is carried overland\nby the fastest trade routethat through Mungtze to Laokaiand thence\nby a boat down stream to Hanoi in Tonquin from which port it is sent by\nregistered post to Saigon and Hong Kong Here then is a venture open to\nall with excitement sufficient for the most _blase_ speculator Ample\nprofits are made by the dealer For instance a large quantity of gold\nwas purchased in Yunnan city on the 21st January 1894 at 232 its\nvalue in Shanghai on the same date being 309 but on the date that the\ngold arrived in Shanghai its value had risen to 35 at which price it\nwas sold At the time of my visit gold was 255 to 27 in Yunnan and 35\nin Shanghai and I have since learnt that while gold has become cheaper\nin the province it has become dearer at the seaport\n\nThe gold is brought to the buyer in the form of jewellery of really\nexquisite workmanship of rings and bracelets earrings and head\nornaments of those tiny images worn by rich children in a half circlet\nover the forehead and bridal charms that would make covetous the heart\nof a nun Ornaments of gold such as these are 98 per cent fine and are\nsold weighed on the same scales for so many times their weight in\nsilver They are sold not because of the poverty of their owners but\nbecause their owners make a very large profit on their original cost by\nso disposing of them If however the purchaser prefer it gold will be\nbrought him in the leaf 99 per cent fine and this is undoubtedly the\nbest form into which to convert your silver The gold beaters of Yunnan\nare a recognised class and are so numerous that they have a powerful\nguild or trades union of their own\n\nGoldtesting is also a recognised profession but the methods are\nprimitive and require the skill of an expert consisting as they do of\na comparison of the rubbing on a stone of the unknown gold with a\nsimilar rubbing of gold whose standard has been accurately determined\nOne of the best goldtesters in the city has been taught electric\ngilding by Mr Jensen and does some skilful work\n\nThe principle of selfprotection restrains the Chinaman from the\nostentatious exhibition of his wealthhe fears being squeezed by the\nofficials who are apt to regard wealth as an aggravation of crime to be\nthe more severely punished the better able is the accused to purchase\nexemption from punishment I have seen a stranger come into the room\nwhere Mr Jensen and I were sitting who from his appearance seemed to\nbe worth perhaps a fivedollar bill and after a preliminary interchange\nof compliments I have seen his hand disappear up his long sleeve and\nproduce a package of gold leaf worth perhaps 2000 taels of silver This\nhe would offer for sale there was some quiet bargaining when should\nthey agree the gold was weighed the purchaser handed a cheque on his\nChinese banker for the amount in silver and the transaction was\nfinished as quickly and neatly as if it had taken place in Bond Street\nand not in the most inland capital of an uncivilised country whose\ncivilisation has nevertheless kept it intact and mighty since the dawn\nof history and whose banking methods are the same now as they were in\nthe days of Solomon\n\nThe silver of Yunnan is of the same standard as the silver of Shanghai\nnamely 98 per cent pure and differs to the eye from the absolutely\nunalloyed silver of Szechuen\n\nThe cash of Yunnan vary in a way that is more than usually bewildering\nLet me explain in a few sentences the cash currency of the Middle\nKingdom The current coin of China as everyone knows is the brass cash\nwhich is perforated so that it may be carried on a string Now\ntheoretically a string of cash contains 100 coins and in the Eastern\nprovinces ten strings are the theoretical equivalent of one Mexican\ndollar But there are eighteen provinces in China and the number of\nbrass cash passing for a string varies in each province from the full\n100 which I have never seen to 83 in Taiyuen and down to 33 in the\nEastern part of the province of Chihli In Peking I found the system\ncharmingly simple One thousand cash are there represented by 100 coins\nwhereas 1000 old cash consist of 1000 coins though 1000 capital\ncash are only 500 coins The big cash are marked as 10 capital cash\nbut count the same as 5 old cash Nowhere does a Chinaman mean 1000 cash\nwhen he speaks of 1000 cash In Tientsin 1000 cash means 500 cashthat\nis to say 5 times 100 cash the 100 there being any number you can pass\nexcept 100 though by agreement the 100 is usually estimated at 98 In\nNanking I found a different system to prevail There cash are 1075 the\n1000 but of the 10 strings of 100 cash 7 contain only 98 cash each\nand 3 only 95 yet the surplus 75 cashthat is to say the number which\nfor the time being is the Nanking equivalent of 75are added all the\nsame At Lanchow in Chihli on the Imperial Chinese Railway near\nShanhaikwan 16 old cash count as 100 cash yet 33 are required to make\nup 200 in Tientsin from which point the railway starts 1000 cash are\nreally 500 cash and 98 count there as 100 Now 2000 Chihli cash are\nrepresented by 325 coins and 1000 by 162 coins and 6000 by 975 coins\nwhich again count as 1000 large cash and equal on an average one Mexican\ndollar Therefore to convert Lanchow cash into Tientsin cash you must\ndivide the Lanchow cash by 3 count 975 as 1000 and consider this equal\nto a certain percentage of a theoretical amount of silver known as a\ntael which is always varying of itself as well as by the fluctuations\nin the market value of silver and which is not alike in any two places\nand may widely vary in different portions of the same place\n\nCould anything be simpler And yet there are those who say that the\nsystem of money exchange in China is both cumbrous and exasperating\nTake as a further instance the cash in Yunnan Everyone knows that\ntheoretically there are 2000 cash in the tael each tael containing 20\nstrings and each string 100 cash but in Yunnan 2000 cash are not\n2000 cashthey are only 1880 cash This does not mean that 1880 cash\nare represented by 1880 coins not at all because 62 cash in Yunnan are\ncounted as 100 Eighteen hundred and eighty cash are therefore\nrepresented by only 1240 cash coins and all prices must be paid in this\nproportion Immediately outside the city however a string of cash is a\nfull string and contains 100 cash or rather it contains as few cash as\npossibly can be passed for 100 a fair average number being 98\n\nSilver is weighed in the City banks and at the wholesale houses on the\ncapital scale but in the retail stores on scales that are heavier by\n14 per cent one mace and 4 candareens in the tael Outside the city\non the road to Tali there is a loss on exchange varying according to\nyour astuteness from 3 to 6 per cent on the capital scale\n\nThere are two chief banks in Yunnan city Wongs whose bank the\nsignboard tells us is Beneficent Rich United and Mongs Bank of\nthe Hundred Streams which is said to be still richer\n\nWith Mr Jensen I called one evening upon Wong and found him with his\nsons and chief dependents at the evening meal All rose as we entered\nand pressed us to take a seat with them and when we would not the\nfather and grownup son showed us into the guestroom and seated us on\nthe opiumdais under the canopy The opiumlamps were already lit on a\nbeautiful tray inlaid with motherofpearl there were pipes for\nvisitors and phials of prepared opium Here we insisted on their\nleaving us and returning to their supper they finished speedily and\nreturned to their visitors We were given good tea and afterwards a\nsingle cigar was handed to each of us In offering you a cigar it is not\nthe Chinese custom to offer you your choice from the cigar box the\ncourtesy is too costly for there are few Chinamen in these\ncircumstances who could refrain from helping themselves to a handful\nWhen one is eating ones own says the Chinese proverb one does not\neat to repletion when one is eating anothers one eats till the tears\nrun\n\nWong is one of the leading citizens of Yunnan and is held in high\nhonour by his townsmen His house is a handsome Chinese mansion it has\na dignified entrance and the garden court is richly filled with plants\nin porcelain vases It may thus be said of him as of the Confucian\nSuperior Man riches adorn his house and virtue his person his heart\nis expanded and his body is at ease\n\nA Szechuen man a native of Chungking fiftynine years of age Wong is\na man of immense wealth his bank being known all over China and having\nbranches in capital cities so far distant from each other as Peking\nCanton Kweiyang Shanghai Hankow Nanchang Soochow Hangchow and\nChungking I may add that he has smoked opium for many years\n\nI formed a high opinion of the intelligence of Wong He questioned me\nlike an insurance doctor as to my family history and professed himself\ncharmed with the amazing richness in sons of my most honourable family\nHe had heard of my native country which he called _Hsin Chin Shan_ the\nNew Gold Mountain to distinguish it from the _Lao Chin Shan_ the\nOld Gold Mountain as the Chinese term California I was the more\npleased to find that Wong had some knowledge of Australia and its gold\nbecause a few months before I had been pained by an incident bearing on\nthis very subject which occurred to me in the highly civilised city of\nManila in the Philippine Islands On an afternoon in August 1893 I\nstood in the Augustine Church in Old Manila to witness the funeral\nservice of the Padre Provincial of the Augustines It was the first\noccasion for one hundred and twentythree years that the Provincial of\nthe Order had died while in the actual exercise of his office and it\nwas known that the ceremony would be one of the most imposing ever seen\nin the Islands The fine old church built by the son of the architect\nof the Escorialthe only building in Manila left standing by the\nearthquake of 1645was crowded with mourners and almost every\nnotability of the province was said to be present During the service\ntwo young Spaniards students from the University close by pushed their\nway in beside me Wishing to learn who were the more distinguished of\nthe mourners I asked the students to kindly point out to me the\nGovernorGeneral Blanco and other prominent officials and they did\nso with agreeable courtesy When the service was finished I thanked them\nfor the trouble they had taken and was coming away when one of them\nstopped me\n\nPardon me Caballero he said but will you do me the favour to tell\nme where you come from\n\nI am from Australia\n\nFrom Austria so then you come from Austria\n\nNo sir from Australia\n\nBut Australiawhere is it\n\nIt is a rich colony of England of immense importance\n\nBut where is it he persisted\n\n_Dios mio_ I exclaimed aghast it is in China\n\nBut his friend interposed The gentleman is talking in fun he said\nThou knowest Pepe where is Australia where is Seednay and\nMelboornay where all the banks have broken one after the other in a\nbankruptcy colossal\n\n_Ya me figuraba donde era_ Pepe replied as I edged uncomfortably\naway\n\nDuring my journey across China it was not often that I was called upon\nto make use of my profession But I was pleased to be of some service to\nthis rich banker He wished to consult me professionally because he had\nheard from the truthful lips of rumour of the wonderful powers of\ndivination given to the foreign medical man What was his probable\ntenure of life That was the problem I gravely examined two of his\npulsesevery properly organised Chinaman has four hundredand finding\nhis heart where it should be in the centre of his body with the other\norgans ranged round it like the satellites round the sunevery Chinaman\nis thus constructedI was glad to be able to assure him that he will\ncertainly live forty years longerif Heaven permit him\n\nWong has a grownup son of twenty who will succeed to the bank he is at\npresent the managing proprietor of a small general store purchased for\nhim by his father The son has been taught photography by Mr Jensen\nand has an excellent camera obtained from Paris He is quite an\nenthusiast In his shop a crowd is always gathered round the counter\nlooking at the work of this Chinese amateur There are a variety of\nstores for sale on the shelves and I was interested to notice the\ncheerful promiscuity with which bottles of cyanide of potassium and\nperchloride of mercury were scattered among bottles of carbonate of\nsoda of alum of Moet and Chandon spurious of pickles and Howards\nquinine The first time that cyanide of potassium is sold for alum or\ncorrosive sublimate for bicarbonate of soda there will be an _eclat_\ngiven to the dealings of this shop which will be very gratifying to its\nowner\n\nThe telegraph in Yunnan is very largely used by the Chinese especially\nby the bankers and officials By telegraph you can remit as I have\nsaid through the Chinese banks telegraphic transfers to the value of\nthousands of taels in single transactions It is principally the banks\nand the Government who make use of the telegraph and their\ncommunications are sent by private code When the Tsungli Yamen in\nPeking sends a telegram to the Viceroy in Yunnan it is in code that the\nmessage comes and it is by private code also that a Chinese bank in\nShanghai telegraphs to its far inland agents Messages are sent in China\nby the Morse system The method of telegraphing Chinese characters\nwhose discovery enabled the Chinese to make use of the telegraph was\nthe ingenious invention of a forgotten genius in the Imperial Maritime\nCustoms of China The method is simplicity itself The telegraph code\nconsists of ten thousand numbers of four numerals each and each group\nso constituted represents a Chinese character Any operator however\nignorant of Chinese can thus telegraph or receive a message in Chinese\nHe receives for instance a message containing a series of numbers such\nas 0018 0297 5396 8424 He has before him a series of ten thousand\nwood blocks on which the number is cut at one end and the corresponding\nChinese character at the other he takes out the number touches the\ninkpad with the other end and stamps opposite each group its Chinese\ncharacter The system permits moreover of the easy arrangement of\nindecipherable private codes because by adding or subtracting a certain\nnumber from each group of figures other characters than those\ntelegraphed can be indicated\n\nI need hardly add that the system of wood blocks is not in practical\nuse for the numbers and their characters are now printed in codebooks\nAnd here we have an instance of the marvellous faculty of memorising\ncharacteristic of the Chinese A Chinamans memory is something\nprodigious From time immemorial the memory of the Chinese has been\ndeveloped above all the other faculties Memory is the secret of success\nin China not originality Among a people taught to associate innovation\nwith impiety and with whom precedent determines all action it is\ninevitable that the faculty of recollection should be the most highly\ndeveloped of all the mental faculties Necessity compels the Chinaman to\nhave a good memory No race has ever been known where the power of\nmemory has been developed even in rare individual cases to the degree\nthat is common to all classes of the Chinese especially to the\nliterati\n\nThe Chinese telegraph clerk quickly learns all the essential portion of\nthe codebook by heart The book then lies in the drawer a superfluity\nIt is claimed for Chiang the second Chinese clerk in Yunnan that he\nknows all the 10000 numbers and their corresponding characters\n\nTelegrams from Yunnan to Shanghai cost twentytwo tael cents at the\npresent value of the tael this is equal to sixpence for each Chinese\ncharacter but each word in any other language is charged double that\nis fortyfour cents\n\nIllustration SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY\n\nFrom Yunnan to Talifu is a distance of 307 miles The native banker in\nthe capital will remit for you by wire to his agent in Tali the sum of\n1000 taels for a charge of eight taels exclusive of the cost of the\ntelegram and as the value of silver in Tali is one per cent higher\nthan it is in Yunnan the traveller can send his money by wire with\nperfect safety and lose nothing in the remittance not even the cost of\nthe telegram\n\nThe telegraph offices are separated from the city wall by a small\ncommon which is quite level and which the Chinaman of the future will\nconvert into a bowling green and lawntennis ground There is a handsome\nentrance The large portal is painted with horrific gods armed with\nmonstrous weapons The Chinese still seem to adhere to the belief that\nthe deadliness of a weapon must be in proportion to the savageness of\nits aspect Inside there are spacious courts and wellfurnished guest\nrooms roomy apartments and offices for the mandarin as well as\ncomfortable quarters for Mr Jensen and his body of Chinese clerks and\noperators There is a pretty garden all bright and sunny with a pond of\ngold fish and ornamental parapet Wandering freely in the enclosure are\npeacocks and native companions while a constant playmate of the\nchildren is a little laughing monkey of a kind that is found in the\nwoods beyond Tali At night a watchman passes round the courts every two\nhours striking a dismal gong under the windows and waking the\nforeigner from his slumbers but the noise he makes does not disturb the\nsleep of the Chineseindeed it is open to question if there is any\ndiscord known which as mere noise _could_ disturb a Chinaman\n\nThe walls that flank the entrance are covered with official posters\ngiving the names of the men of Yunnan City who contributed to the relief\nof the sufferers by a recent famine in Shansi together with the amounts\nof their contributions and the rewards to which their gifts entitled\nthem The Chinese are firm believers in the doctrine of justification by\nworks and on these posters one could read the exact return made in this\nworld for an act of merit apart of course from the reward that will\nbe reaped in Heaven In a case like this it is usually arranged that for\ngifts amounting to a certain percentage of the sums ordinarily\nauthorised subscribers may obtain brevet titles posthumous titles\ndecorations buttons up to the second class the grade of licentiate\nand brevet rank up to the rank of Colonel Disgraced officials may apply\nto have their rank restored Nominal donations of clothes if the money\nvalue of the articles be presented instead will entitle the givers to\nsimilar honours_The Peking Gazette_ August 22 1892\n\nIn the centre of the green stands the hollow pillar in which Chinese\nprinted wastepaper is reverently burnt When letters were invented\nthe Chinese say Heaven rejoiced and Hell trembled Reverence the\ncharacters is an injunction of Confucius which no Chinaman neglects to\nfollow He remembers that he who uses lettered paper to kindle the fire\nhas ten demerits and will have itchy sores he remembers that he who\ntosses lettered paper into dirty water or burns it in a filthy place\nhas twenty demerits and will frequently have sore eyes or become blind\nwhereas he who goes about and collects washes and burns lettered\npaper has 5000 merits adds twelve years to his life will become\nhonoured and wealthy and his children and grandchildren will be\nvirtuous and filial But his reverence has strict limits and while he\nreverences the piece of paper upon which a moral precept is written he\noften thinks himself absolved from reverencing the moral precept itself\njust as a deacon in England need not necessarily be one who never\noverreached his neighbours or swindled his creditors\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XV\n\nTHE FRENCH MISSION AND THE ARSENAL IN YUNNAN CITY\n\n\nThe most prominent structure within the city walls is the Heavenly Lord\nHall _Tienchutang_ the pile of buildings which form the\nheadquarters of the French Mission in the province of Yunnan It was a\nmasterstroke to secure possession of so important a site The palace is\non a higher level even than the yamen of the Viceroy and must intercept\nmuch of the good fortune that would otherwise flow into the city The\nfacade of the central hall has been ornamented with a superb cross of\nporcelain mosaic which is a conspicuous object from the city wall A\nlarge garden where the eucalyptus has been wisely planted surrounds\nthe buildings In residence in the Heavenly Hall are the venerable\nVicaire Apostolique of the province Monseigneur Fenouil the\nProvicaire and four missionary priests all four of whom are from\nAlsace In the province altogether there are twentytwo French priests\nand eight ordained Chinese prieststhirty in all their converts number\n15000 Monseigneur Fenouil is a landmark of Western China he first set\nfoot in the province in 1847 and is the oldest foreign resident in the\ninterior of China No Chinaman speaks purer Chinese than he he thinks\nin Chinese Present in the province throughout the Mohammedan\ninsurrection he was an eyewitness of the horrors of religious warfare\nFew men have had their path in life marked by more thrilling episodes\nHe was elected Bishop in 1880 by the unanimous vote of all the priests\nin the province a vote confirmed by Rome which is I am told the mode\nof election by which Catholic Missionary Bishops in China are always\nchosen\n\nThe grand old Bishop seemed much amused at my journey I suppose you\nare riding a mule he said for you English have large bones and the\nChinese ponies are very small I said that I had come so far most of\nthe way on foot You speak Chinese of course\n\nHardly at all I speak only a dozen words of Chinese\n\nThen you have a Chinese interpreter No An English companion who can\nspeak Chinese No A Chinese servant who can speak English No and no\nescort But without doubt you are armed No No escort no revolver no\ncompanion and you can live on Chinese food Ah you have a brave heart\nMonsieur\n\nAt the time of my visit to Yunnan Pere de Gorostarza the accomplished\nProvicaire was absent at Mungtze deciding a question of discipline\nFour months before one of the most trusted converts of the mission had\nbeen sent to Mungtze to purchase a property for the use of the mission\nHe was given the purchasemoney of 400 taels but when he arrived in\nMungtze and the eye of the mission was no longer upon him he invested\nthe money not in premises for the mission but in a cooliehong for\nhimself His backsliding had availed him little And he was now\ndefending his conduct as best he could before the Bishops deputy\n\nConverts of the French mission in China it is well to remember are no\nlonger French subjects or _proteges_ the objection is no longer\ntenable that the mission shields bad characters who only become\nconverted in order to escape from the consequences of their guilt\n\nHow wonderful has been the pioneer work done by the Jesuit Missionaries\nin China It may almost be said that the foundation of all that we know\nabout China we owe to the Jesuit Missionaries All maps on China are\nfounded upon the maps of the Jesuit Missionaries employed for the\npurpose by the Emperor Kanghi 16631723 the greatest prince who ever\ngraced the throne of China Their accuracy has been the wonder of all\ngeographers for a century past Now that the Great River the\nYangtse has been surveyed says Captain Blakiston for nearly 1600\nmiles from the ocean and with instruments and appliances such as were\nunknown in the days of those energetic and persevering men no small\npraise is due to the first Christian explorers for the extraordinary\ncorrectness of their maps and records The reports of the early Jesuit\nMissionaries even Voltaire describes as the productions of the most\nintelligent travellers that have extended and embellished the fields of\nscience and philosophy\n\nYet we as Protestants are warned by a great missionary that we must\nnot be deluded by these insidious compliments we must not forget that\nthe work of the Jesuits in China overtops all other forms of\nsuperstition and error in danger and stands forth an organised\nconspiracy against the liberties of mankind The schemes of the Jesuits\nmust be checked\n\nOne Sunday morning Mr Jensen and I rode round the city wall This is\none of the most massive walls in a country of walled cities It is built\nof brick and stone over a body of earth thirty feet thick it is of\nimposing height and wide enough for a carriage drive When I was\nmounted on my mule the upper edge of the parapet was on a level with my\nforehead There are six city gates The great north gate is closely\nbarred all through the rains to prevent the entrance of the Flood God\nwho fortunately his intelligence being limited knows no other way to\nenter the city than by this gate The great turreted south gate is the\nmost important of all as it is in all Chinese cities Near this gate\nthe Viceroys Yamen is situated and the Yamen of the Futai Governor of\nthe Province both buildings of course looking to the south as did\nthe Temple of Solomon and the tombs of the Mings and as Chinese custom\nrequires that every building of importance shall do whether temple or\nyamen private residence or royal palace But why should they look\nsouth Because from the south the sun comes bringing with it genial\nand animating influence and putting new life into plant and animal\nafter the winter\n\nThe south gate is a double gate in a semicircular bastion Beyond it is\na splendid triumphal arch erected by a grateful community to the memory\nof the late viceroy A thicklypopulated suburb extends from here to the\nwide common where stands the lofty guardian pagoda of the city 250\nfeet high a conspicuous sight from every part of the great Yunnan\nplain Rich temples are all around it their eaves hung with sweettoned\nbells which tinkle with every breath of wind giving forth what the\nChinese poetically describe as the tribute of praise from inanimate\nnature to the greatness of Buddha\n\nIllustration THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY 250 FEET HIGH\n\nIn the early morning the traveller is awakened by the steam whistle of\nthe arsenal a strange sound to be heard in so far inland a city in\nChina The factory is under Chinese management a fact patent to any\nvisitor Its two foremen were trained partly in the arsenal in Nanking\nunder Dr Macartney now Sir Halliday Macartney and partly in the\nsplendid Shanghai arsenal under Mr Cornish I went to the arsenal and\nwas received as usual in the opiumroom There was nothing to conceal\nand I was freely shown everything The arsenal turns out Krupp guns of\n712 centimetres calibre but the iron is inferior and the workmen are\nin need of better training Cartridges are also made here And in one\nroom I saw two men finishing with much neatness a pure silver opiumtray\nintended for the Fantai provincial treasurer but why made in the\narsenal only a Chinaman could tell you Work in the furnace is done at a\ndisadvantage owing to the shortness of the furnace chimney which is\nonly 25 feet high All attempts to increase its height are now forbidden\nby the authorities There was agitation in the city when the chimney was\nbeing heightened Geomancers were consulted who saw the feeling of the\nmajority and therefore gave it as their unprejudiced opinion that if\nthe chimney were not stunted the _fungshui_ good luck of the Futais\nyamen provincial governor and of that portion of the city under its\nprotection would depart for ever All the machinery of the arsenal is\nstamped with the name of Greenwood Battley and Co Leeds Rust and\ndirt are everywhere and the 100 workmen for whom pay is drawn never\nnumber on the rare pay days more than sixty persons a phenomenon\nobserved in most establishments in China worked by government Yet with\na foreigner in charge excellent work could be turned out from the\nfactory The buildings are spacious the grounds are ample\n\nThe powder factory is outside the city near the northeastern angle of\nthe wall but the powder magazine is on some rising ground inside the\ncity No guns are stationed anywhere on the walls though they may be in\nconcealment in the turrets but near the small west gate I saw some\nsmall cannon of ancient casting built on the model of the guns cast by\nthe Jesuit missionaries in China two centuries ago if they were not the\nactual originals They were all marked in relief with a cross and the\ndevice IHSa motto that you would think none but a Chinaman could\nselect for a weapon designed to destroy men yet characteristic of this\ncountry of contradictions The Chinese statesman says Wingrove Cooke\nthe famous _Times_ correspondent cuts off 10000 heads and cites a\npassage from Mencius about the sanctity of human life He pockets the\nmoney given him to repair an embankment and thus inundates a province\nand he deplores the land lost to the cultivator of the soil\n\nDu Halde tells us that the first Chinese cannon were cast under the\ndirections of Pere Verbiest in 1682 who blest the cannon and gave to\neach the name of a saint A female saint says Huc\n\nNear the arsenal and drill ground there is a large intramural swamp or\nreedy lake the reeds of which have an economic value as wicks for\nChinese candles Dykes cross the swamp in various directions and in the\ncentre there is a well known Taoist Temple a richly endowed edifice\nwith superior gods and censers of great beauty Where the swamp deepens\ninto a pond at the margin of the temple a pretty pavilion has been\nbuilt which is a favourite resort of the Yunnan gentry The most _chic_\ndinner parties in the province are given here The pond itself swarms\nwith sacred fish they are so numerous that when the masses move the\nwhole pond vibrates Many merits are gained by feeding the fish and\nas it happened at the time of my visit that I had no money I was\nconstrained to borrow fifteen cash from my chair coolies with which I\npurchased some of the artificial food that women were vending and threw\nit to the fish so that I might add another thousand to the innumerable\nmerits I have already hoarded in Heaven\n\nUpon a pretty wooded hill near the centre of the city is the Confucian\nTemple and on the lower slope of the hill in an admirable position\nare the quarters of the China Inland Mission conducted by Mr and Mrs\nX assisted by Mr Graham who at the time of my visit was absent in\nTali and by two exceedingly nice young girls one of whom comes from\nMelbourne The single ladies live in quarters of their own on the edge\nof a swamp and suffer inevitably from malarial fever Mr X finds the\npeople very hard to reach he told me and his success has only been\nrelatively cheering After labouring here nearly six yearsthe mission\nwas first opened in 1882he has no male converts though there are two\npromising nibblers who are waiting for the first vacancy to become\nadherents There _was_ a convert baptised before Mr X came here a\npoor manurecoolie who was employed by the mission as an evangelist in\na small way but Satan tempted him he fell from grace and had to be\nexpelled for stealing the childrens buttons It was a sad trial to the\nmission The men refuse to be saved recalcitrant sinners but the women\nhappily are more tractable Mr X has up to date May 1894 baptised\nhis childrens nurse girl the native helper of the single ladies and\nhis wifes cook Mr X works hard far too hard He is of the type that\nnever can be successful in China He was converted when nearing middle\nage is narrow and uncompromising in his views and is as stern as a\nCameronian It is a farce sending such men to China At his services\nthere is never any lack of listeners who marvel greatly at the new\nmethod of speaking Chinese which this enterprising emissaryin London\nhe was in the oil tradeis endeavouring to introduce into the province\nOf tones instead of the five used by the Chinese he does not\nrecognise more than two and these he uses indifferently He hopes\nhowever to be understood by loud speaking and he bellows at the placid\ncoolies like a bull of Bashan\n\nI paid an early visit to my countrymen at the _Yesutang_ Jesus Hall\nthe mission home as I thought that my medical knowledge might be of\nsome service I wished to learn a little about their work but to my\ngreat sorrow I was no sooner seated than they began plying me with\nquestions about the welfare of my soul I am a poor lost sinner they\ntold me They flung texts at my head and then sang a terrifying ballad\nby which I learnt for the first time the awful fate that is to be mine\nIt is something too dreadful to contemplate And the cheerful equanimity\nwith which they announced it to me I left the _Yesutang_ in a cold\nsweat and never returned there\n\nMissionary work is being pursued in the province with increasing vigour\nAmong its population of from five to seven millions spread over an area\nof 107969 square miles there are eighteen Protestant missionaries\nnine men and nine ladies this is the number at present but the usual\nstrength is twentythree Stations are open at Chaotong 1887\nTongchuan 1891 Yunnan City 1882 Tali 1881 and Kuhtsing 1889\nThe converts numberthe work however must not be judged by\nstatisticstwo at Chaotong one at Tongchuan three at Yunnan City\nthree at Tali and two at Kuhtsing\n\nThat the Chinese are capable of very rapid conversion can be proved by\nnumberless instances quoted in missionary reports on China The Rev S\nF Woodin in the _Records_ of the Missionary Conference 1877 p 91\nstates that he converted a grossly immoral Chinaman who had smoked\nopium for more than twenty years simply by saying to him in a spirit\nof earnest love elder brother Six as far as I can see you must\nperish you are Hells child\n\nMr Stanley P Smith BA who was formerly stroke of the Cambridge\neight had been only seven months in China when he performed that\nwonderful conversion so applauded at the Missionary Conference of 1888\nof a young Chinaman a learned man a BA of his University who\nheard Mr Smith speak in the Chinese that can be acquired in seven\nmonths and accepted Him there and then _Records_ of the Missionary\nConference 1888 i 46 Indeed the earlier the new missionaries in\nChina begin to preach the more rapid are the conversions they make\n\nNow in this province of Yunnan conversions will have to be infinitely\nmore rapid before we can say that there is any reasonable hope of the\nproximate conversion of the province The problem is this In a\npopulation of from five to seven millions of friendly and peaceable\npeople eighteen missionaries in eight years the average time during\nwhich the mission stations have been opened have converted eleven\nChinese how long then will it take to convert the remainder\n\nI believe said a late member of the House of Commons who was once\nLord Mayor of London speaking at the anniversary meeting of the China\nInland Mission in 1884 I believe God intends to accomplish great\nthings in China and undoubtedly the opinion of an exLord Mayor on\nsuch a subject is entitled to great weight\n\nThe Gospel he said is making rapid progress in China We are\namazed at the great things God hath wrought in the conversion of the\nChinese\n\nLet us examine for a moment an instance of the rapid progress which\nexcited the amazement of this good man No missionary body in China is\nworking with greater energy than the China Inland Mission Their\nmissionaries go far afield in their work and they are what their\nmission intends them to be pioneer Protestant missionaries in Inland\nChina At the present time the beginning of 1894 the Inland Mission\nnumbers 611 male and female missionaries They are assisted by 261 paid\nnative helpers and the combined body of 872 Evangelists baptised during\nthe year just passed 1893 821 Chinese These figures taken from\n_Chinas Millions_ 1894 p 122 attest a rather lower rate of progress\nthan the other missions can boast of but a considerable part of the\ninland work it must be remembered is the most difficult work of\nallthe preaching of the Gospel for the first time in newlyopened\ndistricts\n\nIllustration THE VICEROY OF THE TWO PROVINCES OF YUNNAN AND KWEICHOW\n\nThe Viceroy of the two provinces of Yunnan and Kweichow Wongwenshao\nis one of the most enlightened rulers in China No stranger could fail\nto be impressed with his keen intellectual face and courtly grace of\nmanner His career has been a distinguished one Good fortune attended\nhim even at his birth He is a native of Hangchow in Chehkiang a city\nfamous in China for its coffins Every Chinaman will tell you that true\nfelicity consists in three things to be born in Peking under the\nshadow of the Son of Heaven to live in Soochow where the girls are\nprettiest and to die in Hangchow where the coffins are grandest\nTwelve years ago he was Governor of the province of Hunan Called then\nto Peking as one of the Ministers of State of the Tsungli Yamen or\nForeign Office he remained there four years his retirement being then\ndue to the inexorable law which requires an official to resign office\nand go into mourning for three years on the death of one of his parents\nIn this case it was his mother A Chinese mother suckles her child two\nand a half years and as the age of the child is dated from a time\nanterior by some months to birth the child is three years old before it\nleaves its mothers breast Three years therefore has been defined as\nthe proper period for mourning At the termination of the three years\nWong was reappointed Governor of Hunan and a year and a half later in\nMay 1890 he was appointed to his present important satrapy where he\nhas the supreme control of a district larger than Spain and Portugal\nand with a population larger than that of Canada and Australia combined\nIn May 1893 he made application to the throne to be allowed to return\nto his ancestral home to die but the privilege was refused him\n\nBefore leaving Yunnan city the Mandarin Li kindly provided me with a\nletter of introduction to his friend BrigadierGeneral Changchen Nien\nin Tengyueh Since it contained a communication between persons of rank\nthe envelope was about the size of an ordinary pillowslip The General\nwas presumably of higher rank than the traveller I had therefore in\naccordance with Chinese etiquette to provide myself with a suitable\nvisiting card of a size appropriate to his importance Now Chinese\nvisiting cards differ from ours in differing in size according to the\nimportance of the person to whom they are to be presented My ordinary\ncard is eight inches by three red in colourthe colour of\nhappinessand inscribed in black with the three characters of my\nChinese name But the card that I was expected to present to the\nGeneral was very much larger than this Folded it was of the same size\nbut unfolded it was ten times the size of the other eight by thirty\ninches and the last page politely inscribed in Chinese contained\nthis humiliating indication of its purport Your addlepated nephew\nMolison bows his stupid head and pays his humble respects to your\nexalted Excellency\n\nIllustration\n\nI still have this card in my possession and I should be extremely\nreluctant to present it to any official in the Empire of lower rank than\nthe Emperor\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XVI\n\nTHE JOURNEY FROM YUNNAN CITY TO TALIFU\n\n\nI sold the mule in Yunnan City and bought instead a little white pony\nat a cost including saddle bridle and bells of _L3 6s_ In doing\nthis I reversed the exchange that would have been made by a Chinaman A\nmule is a more aristocratic animal than a pony it thrives better on a\njourney and is more surefooted If a pony the Chinese tell you lets\nslip one foot the other three follow whereas a mule if three feet\nslip from under him will hold on with the fourth\n\nMy men who had come with me from Chaotong were paid off in Yunnan but\nit was pleasant to find all three accept an offer to go on with me to\nTalifu Coolies to do this journey are usually supplied by the coolie\nagents for the wage of two _chien_ a day each _7d_ each man to carry\nseventy catties 93lbs find himself by the way and spend thirteen\ndays on the journey But no coolies owing to the increase in the price\nof food were now willing to go for so little Accordingly I offered my\ntwo coolies three taels each _9s_ instead of the hong price of _7s\n9d_ and loads of fifty catties instead of seventy catties I offered\nto refund them 100 cash each _212d_ a day for every day that they\nhad been delayed in Yunnan and in addition I promised them a reward\nof five mace each _1s 6d_ if they would take me to Tali in nine\ndays instead of thirteen the first evening not to count To Laohwan\nwho had no load to carry but had to attend to me and the pony and pay\naway the cash I made a similar offer These terms involving me in an\noutlay of _36s_ for hiring three men to go with me on foot 915 li and\nreturn emptyhanded were considered liberal and were agreed to at\nonce\n\nThe afternoon then of the 19th April saw us again _en route_ bound to\nthe west to Talifu the most famous city in western China the\nheadquarters of the Mohammedan Sultan during the great rebellion of\n18571873\n\nBy the courtesy of the Mandarin Li two men were detailed to sung\nmeto accompany me that isand take the responsibility for my safe\ndelivery at the next hsien One was a wen a chairen or yamen runner\nthe other was a wu a soldier with a sightless right eye who was\ndressed in the ragged vestiges of a uniform that reflected both the\npoverty of his environment and inversely the richness of his\ncommanding officer For in China the officer enriches himself by the\ntwofold expedient of drawing pay for soldiers who have no existence\nexcept in his statement of claim and by diverting the pay of his\nsoldiers who do exist from their pockets into his own\n\nIllustration THE GIANT OF YUNNAN\n\nAs I was leaving a colossal Chinaman sent by the Fantai to speed the\nforeign gentleman on his way strode into the court He was dressed in\nmilitary jacket and official hat and foxtails He was the Yunnan giant\nChang Yan Miun a kindlyfeatured monster whom it is a pity to see\nburied in China when he might be holding _levees_ of thousands in a\nWestern sideshow For the information of those in search of novelties\nI may say that the giant is thirty years of age a native of Tongchuan\nborn of parents of ordinary stature he is 7ft 1in in his bare feet\nand weighs when in condition 27st 6lb With that ingenious\narrangement for increasing height known to all showmen this giant might\nbe worth investing in as a possible successor to his unrivalled\nnamesake There is surely money in it Changs present earnings are\nrather less than _7s_ a month without board and lodging he is\nunmarried and has no incumbrance and he is slightly taller and much\nmore massively built than a wellknown American giant whom I once had\npermission to measure who has been shown half over the world as the\ntallest man on earth his height being attested as 7ft 11in in his\nstockings soles and who commands the salary of an English admiral\n\nWe made only a short march the first evening but after that we\ntravelled by long stages The country was very pretty open glades with\nclumps of pine and here and there a magnificent sacred tree like the\nbanyan under whose farreaching branches small villages are often half\nconcealed Despite the fertility of the country poverty and starvation\nmet us at every step the poor were lingering miserably through the\nyear Goitre too was increasing in frequency It was rarely that a\ngroup gathered to see us some of whose members were not suffering from\nthis horrible deformity And everywhere in the pretty country were signs\nof the ruthless devastation of religious war That was a war of\nextermination A storm of universal fire blasted every field consumed\nevery house destroyed every temple\n\nCrumbling walls are at long distances from the towns they used to guard\nthere are pastures and waste lands where there were streets of\nbuildings walls of houses have returned whence they came to the mother\nearth others are roofless In the open country far from habitation\nthe traveller comes across groups of bare walls with foundations still\nuncovered and dismantled arches and broken images in the long grass\nthat were formerly yamens and temples in the midst of thriving\ncommunities Yet there are signs of a renaissance many new houses are\nbeing built along the main road walls are being repaired and bridges\nreconstructed When an exodus takes place from Szechuen to this\nprovince there is little reason why Yunnan should not become one of the\nrichest provinces in China It has every advantage of climate great\nfertility of soil and immense mineral resources hardly yet developed\nIt needs population It needs the population that dwelt in the province\nbefore the rebellion involved the death of millions It can absorb an\nimmense proportion of the surplus population of China During and\nsubsequent to the Taiping rebellion the province of Szechuen increased\nby 45000000 in forty years 184282 given the necessity there seems\nno reason why the population of Yunnan should not increase in an almost\nequal proportion\n\nOn the 22nd we passed Lufenghsien another ruined town The finest\nstone bridge I have seen in Western China and one that would arrest\nattention in any country in the world is at this town It crosses the\nwide bed of a stream that in winter is insignificant but which grows in\nvolume in the rains of summer to a broad and powerful river It is a\nbridge of seven beautiful arches it is 12 yards broad and 150 yards\nlong of perfect simplicity and symmetry with massive piers all built\nof dressed masonry and destined to survive the lapse of centuries\nTriumphal archways with memorial tablets and pedestals of carved lions\nare befitting portals to a really noble work\n\nOn the 23rd we reached the important city of Chuhsingfu a walled city\nstill halfinruins that was long occupied by the Mohammedans and\nsuffered terrible reprisals on its recapture by the Imperialists For\nfour days we had travelled at an average rate of one hundred and five li\nthirtyfive miles a day I must however note that these distances as\nestimated by Mr Jensen the constructor of the telegraph line do not\nagree with the distances in Mr Babers itinerary The Chinese distances\nin li agree in both estimates but whereas Mr Jensen allows three li\nfor a mile Mr Baber allows four and ahalf a wide difference indeed\nFor convenience sake I have made use of the telegraph figures but Mr\nBaber was so scrupulously accurate in all that he wrote that I have no\ndoubt the telegraph distances are overestimated\n\nWe were again in a district almost exclusively devoted to the poppy the\nvalleyplains sparkled with poppy flowers of a multiplicity of tints\nThe days were pleasant and the sun shone brightly every plant was in\nflower doves cooed in the trees and the bushes in blossom were bright\nwith butterflies Lanes led between hedges of wild roses white with\nflower and wherever a creek trickled across the plain its\nwillowlined borders were blue with forgetmenots And everywhere a\npeaceful people who never spoke a word to the foreigner that was not\nfriendly\n\nOn the evening of the 24th at a ruined town thirty li from Luho we\nreceived our first check It was at a walled town with gateways and a\npagoda that gave some indication of its former prosperity prettily\nsituated among the trees on the confines of a plain of remarkable\nfertility Near sundown we passed down the one long street all battered\nand dismantled which is all that is left of the old town News of the\nforeigner quickly spread and the people gathered into the street to\nsee meno reception could be more flattering We did not wait but\npushing on we passed out by the west gate and hastened on across the\nplain But I noticed that Laohwan kept looking back at the impoverished\ntown shaking his head and stuttering _pupupupuhao pupupuhao_\nbad bad We had thus gone half a mile or so when we were arrested by\ncries behind us and our last chairen was seen running panting after\nus We waited for him he was absurdly excited and could hardly speak\nHe made an address to me speaking with great energy and gesticulation\nbut what was its purport _Dios sabe_ When he had finished not to be\noutdone in politeness I thanked him in English for the kindly phrases\nin which he had spoken to me assured him of my continued sympathy and\nundertook to say that if ever he came to Geelong he would find there a\nhouse at his disposition and a friend who would be ever ready to do him\na service He seemed completely mystified and began to speak again\nmore excitedly than before It was getting late and a crowd was\ncollecting so I checked him by waving my left hand before my face and\nbawling at him with all my voice _Putung_ you stupid ass _putung_ I\ndont understand Cant you see I dont understand a word you say you\nbenighted heathen you _Putung_ man _putung_ Advance Australia _dzo_\ngo And swinging open my umbrella I walked on His excitement\nincreasedwe must go back to the town he seized me by the wrists and\nurged me to go back We had a slight discussion his feet gave from\nunder him and he fell down and I was going on cheerfully when he burst\nout crying This I interpreted to mean that he would get into trouble if\nI did not return so of course I turned back at once for the tears\nof a Chinaman are sadly affecting Back then we were taken to an\nexcellent inn in the main street where a respectful _levee_ of the\ntownsfolk had assembled to welcome me A polite official called upon me\nto whom I showed with simulated indignation my official card and my\nChinese passport and I hinted to him in English that this interference\nwith my rights as a traveller from England protected by the favour of\nthe Emperor wouldlet him mark my wordbe made an international\nquestion While saying this I inadvertently left on my box so that all\nmight see it the letter of introduction to the BrigadierGeneral in\nTengyueh which was calculated to give the natives an indication of the\nclass of Chinese who had the privilege to be admitted to my friendship\nThe official was very polite and apologetic I freely forgave him and\nwe had tea together\n\nHe had done it all for the best A moneyed foreigner was passing through\nhis town near sundown without stopping to spend a single cash there Was\nit not his duty as a publicspirited man to interfere and avert this\nloss and compel the stranger to spend at least one night within his\ngates\n\nThis was what I wrote at the time I subsequently found that I had been\nsent for to come back because the road was believed to be dangerous\nthere was no secure restingplace and the authorities could not\nguarantee my safety Imagine a Chinese in a Western country acting with\nthe bluster that I did although in good humour I wonder whether he\nwould be treated with the courtesy that those Chinamen showed to me\n\nOn the 25th an elderly chairen was ready to accompany us in the morning\nand he remained with us all day All day he was engrossed in deep\nthought He spoke to no one but he kept a watchful eye over his charge\nnever leaving me a moment but dogging my very footsteps all the\nhundred li we travelled together Poorly clad he was better provided\nthan his brother of yesterday in that he wore sandals whereas the\nchairen of yesterday was in rags and barefoot He was of course\nunprovided with weapon of any kindit was moral force that he relied\non Over his shoulder was slung a bag from which projected his\nopiumpipe a tobacco pipe and tobacco box hung at his girdle a green\nglass bottle of crude opium he carried round his neck\n\nThe chairen is the policeman of China the lictor of the magistrate the\nsatellite of the official the soldier is the representative of military\nauthority Now China in the person of her greatest statesman Li Hung\nChang has through the secretary of the AntiOpium Society called upon\nEngland to aid her in the efforts she is now making to suppress opium\nIf then China is sincere in her alleged efforts to abolish opium it\nis the chairen and the soldier who must be employed by the authorities\nto suppress the evil yet I have never been accompanied by either a\nchairen or a soldier who did not smoke opium nor have I to my knowledge\never met a chairen or a soldier who was not an opiumsmoker Through all\ndistricts of Yunnan wherever the soil permits it the poppy is grown\nfor miles as far as the sight can reach on every available acre on\nboth sides of the road\n\nBut why does China grow this poppy Have not the _literati_ and elders\nof Canton written to support the schemes of the AntiOpium Society in\nthese thrilling words If Englishmen wish to know the sentiments of\nChina here they areIf we are told to let things go on as they are\ngoing then there is no remedy and no salvation for China Oh it makes\nthe blood run cold and we want in this our extremity to ask the\nquestion of High Heaven what unknown crimes or atrocity have the\nChinese people committed beyond all others that they are doomed to\nsuffer thus Cited by Mr S S Mander _Chinas Millions_ iv 156\n\nAnd the women of Canton have they not written to the missionaries that\nthere is no tear that they shed that is not red with blood because of\nthis opium China by M Reed p 63 Why then does China while\nshe protests against the importation of a drug which a Governor of\nCanton himself an opiumsmoker described as a vile excrementitious\nsubstance Barrows Travels p 153 sanction if not foster with\nall the weight of the authorities in the everextending opiumdistricts\nthe growth of the poppy To the Rev G Piercy formerly of the WMS\nCanton we are indebted for the following explanation of this anomaly\nChina it appears is growing opium in order to put a stop to\nopiumsmoking\n\nMoreover China has not done with the evils of opium even if our hands\nwere washed of this traffic today China in her desperation has invoked\nSatan to cast out Satan She now grows her own opium vainly dreaming\nthat if the Indian supply lapse she can then deal with this rapidly\ngrowing evil But Satan is not divided against himself he means his\nkingdom to stand Opiumgrowing will not destroy opiumsmoking\nMissionary Conference of 1888 _Records_ ii 546\n\nYet the awful guilt remains said the Ven Archdeacon Farrar on a\nrecent occasion in Westminster Abbey that we wherever winds blow and\nwaters roll have girdled the world with a zone of drunkenness until I\nseem to shudder as I think of the curses not loud but deep muttered\nagainst our name by races which our firewater has decimated and our\nvice degraded _National Righteousness_ December 1892 p 4\n\nAnd this patriotic utterance of a distinguished Englishman the Chinese\nwill quote in unexpected support of the memorial On the Restriction of\nChristianity addressed to the Throne of China in 1884 by the High\nCommissioner Peng Yuelin which memorial stated in severe language that\n_since the treaties have permitted foreigners from the West to spread\ntheir doctrines the morals of the people have been greatly injured_\nThe Causes of the AntiForeign Disturbances in China Rev Gilbert\nReid MA p 9\n\nForty li from our sleeping place we came to the pretty town of\nShachiaokai on some undulating high ground well sheltered with trees\nJustice had lately been here with her headsman and brought death to a\ngang of malefactors Their heads swinging in wooden cages hung from\nthe tower near the gateway They could be seen by all persons passing\nalong the road and with due consideration for the feelings of the\nbereaved relatives they were hung near enough for the features to be\nrecognised by their friends Each head was in a cage of its own and was\nsuspended by the pigtail to the rim so that it might not lie upside\ndown but could byandby rattle in its box as dead mens bones should\ndo To each cage a white ticket was attached giving the name of the\ncriminal and his confession of the offence for which he was executed\nThey were the heads of highway robbers who had murdered two travellers\non the road near Chennanchow and it was this circumstance which\naccounted for the solicitude of the officials near Luho to prevent our\nbeing benighted in a district where such things were possible\n\nIllustration THE EAGLE NEST BARRIER ON THE ROAD BETWEEN YUNNAN AND\nTALIFU\n\nMidway between Shachiaokai and Pupeng there was steep climbing to be\ndone till we reached Yingwukwan the Eagle Nest Barrier which is\nmore than 8000 feet above the sea Then by very hilly and poor country\nwe came to Pupeng and pursuing our way over a thicklypeopled plateau\nwe reached a break in the high land from which we descended into a wide\nand deep valley skirted with villages and gleaming with sheets of\nwaterthe submerged ricefields At the foot of the steep was a poor\nmud town but standing back from it in the fields was a splendid\nTaoist temple fit for a capital In this village we were delayed for\nnearly an hour while my three men bargained against half the village for\nthe possession of a hen that was all unconscious of the comments\nflattering and deprecatory that were being passed on its fatness It\nwas secured eventually for 260 cash the vendors having declared that\nthe hen was a family pet hatched on a lucky day that it had been\ncarefully and tenderly reared and that nothing in the world could\ninduce them to part with it for a cash less than 350 My men with equal\nconfidence based upon long experience in the purchase of poultry\nasserted that the real value of the hen was 200 cash and that not a\nsingle cash more of the foreign gentlemans money could they\nconscientiously invest in such a travesty of a hen as _that_ But little\nby little each party gave way till they were able to _tomber daccord_\n\nA pleasant walk across the busy plain brought us to Yunnan Yeh where we\npassed the night\n\nOn the 27th we had an unsatisfactory days journey We travelled only\nseventy li over an even road yet with four good hours of daylight\nbefore us my men elected to stop when we came to the village of\nYenwanshan We had left the main road for some unknown reason and were\ntaking a short cut over the mountains to Tali But a shortcut in China\noften means the longest distance and I was sure that this shortcut\nwould bring us to Tali a day later than if we had gone by the main\nroadin ten days that is from Yunnan instead of the nine which my\nmen had promised me Laohwan who like most Chinaman I met persisted\nin thinking that I was deaf yelled to me in the presence of the village\nthat the next stopping place was twenty miles distant that _mitte\nliao mitte liao_ there were no beans on the way for the pony and\nthat assuredly we would reach Tali tomorrow having given the pony the\nadmirable rest that here offered As he stammered these sentences the\npeople supported what he said Obviously their statements were _ex\nparte_ and were promoted solely by the desire to see the distinguished\nforeign mandarin sojourn for one night in their hungry midst So here I\nwas detained in a tumbledown inn that had formerly been a temple All\nof us men and master were housed in the old guestroom Beds were\nformed of disused coffin boards laid between steps made of clods of dry\nclay the floor was earth the windows paper The pony was feeding from\na trough in the temple hall itself an armful of excellent grass before\nit while a bucket of beans was soaking for him in our corner Other\nmules and ponies were stationed in the side pavilions where formerly\nwere displayed the scenes of torture in the Buddhist Hells\n\nAs I wrote at a table by the window a crowd collected stretching\nacross the street and quarrelling to catch a glimpse of the foreign\nteacher and his strange method of writing so different from the\nChinese Poor sickly people were theseof the ten in the first row\nthree were suffering from goitre one from strabismus and two from\nophthalmia All were poorly clad and poorly nourished all were very\ndirty and their heads were unshaven of the growth of days But despite\ntheir poverty nearly all the women the children as well as the\ngrandmothers wore silver earrings of pretty filigree\n\nNow even among these poor people I noticed that there was a\ndisposition rather to laugh at me than to open the eyes of wonder and\nthis is a peculiarity of the Chinese which every traveller will be\nstruck with It often grieved me During my journey although I was\ntreated with undeniable friendliness I found that the Chinese instead\nof being impressed by my appearance would furtively giggle when they\nsaw me But they were never openly rude like the coloured folk were in\nJamaica when stranded in their beautiful island I did them the honour\nto go as a walkfoot buccra round the sugar plantations from Ewarton\nto Montego Bay Even poor ragged fellows living in utter misery would\nlaugh and snigger at me when not observed and crack jokes at the\nforeigner who was wellfed wellclad and wellmounted in a way you\nwould think to excite envy rather than derision But Chinese laughter\nseems to be moved by different springs from ours The Chinaman makes\nmerry in the presence of death A Chinaman come to announce to you the\ndeath of a beloved parent or brother laughs heartily as he tells\nyouyou might think he was overflowing with joy but he is really sick\nand sore at heart and is only laughing to deceive the spirits So it\nmay be that the poor beggars who laughed at that noble presence which\nhas been the admiration of my friends in four continents were moved to\ndo so by the hope to deceive the evil spirits who had punished them with\npoverty and so by their apparent gaiety induce them to relax the\nseverity of their punishment\n\nTo within two or three miles of this village the road was singularly\nlevel I do not think that it either rose or fell 100 feet in twenty\nmiles Forty li from where we slept the night before having previously\nleft the main road we came to the large walled town of Yunnanhsien\nThe streets were crowded for it was market day and both sides of the\nmain thoroughfares especially in the vicinity of the Confucian Temple\nwere thronged with peasant women selling garden produce turnips beans\nand peas and live fish caught in the lake beyond Tali Articles of\nWestern trade were also for salestacks of calico braid and thread\nnew impermeable matches made in Trieste and toilet soap of the\nfinest quality I had a royal reception as I rode through the crowd\nand the street where was situated the inn to which we went for lunch\nspeedily became impassable There was keen competition to see me Two\nthieves were among the foremost with huge iron crowbars chained to\ntheir necks and ankles while a third prisoner with his head pilloried\nin a _cangue_ obstructed the gaze of many There was the most admirable\ncourtesy shown me it was the foreign teacher they wished to see not\nthe foreign devil When I rose from the table half a dozen guests\nsitting at the other tables rose also and bowed to me as I passed out\nOf all people I have ever met the Chinese are I think the politest\nMy illiterate Laohwan who could neither read nor write had a courtesy\nof demeanour a wellbred ease of manner a graceful deference that\nnever approached servility which it was a constant pleasure to me to\nwitness\n\nAs regards the educated classes there can be little doubt I think\nthat there are no people in the world so scrupulously polite as the\nChinese Their smallest actions on all occasions of ceremony are\ngoverned by the most minute rules Let me give as an example the\nmethod of crossexamination to which the stranger is subjected and\nwhich is a familiar instance of true politeness in China\n\nWhen a wellbred Chinaman of whatever station meets you for the first\ntime he thus addresses you first asking you how old you are\n\nWhat is your honourable age\n\nI have been dragged up a fool so many years you politely reply\n\nWhat is your noble and exalted occupation\n\nMy mean and contemptible calling is that of a doctor\n\nWhat is your noble patronymic\n\nMy povertystruck family name is Mo\n\nHow many honourable and distinguished sons have you\n\nAlas Fate has been niggardly I have not even one little bug\n\nBut if you can truthfully say that you are the honourable father of\nsons your interlocutor will raise his clasped hands and say gravely\nSir you are a man of virtue I congratulate you He continues\n\nHow many tens of thousands of pieces of silver have you meaning how\nmany daughters have you\n\nMy yatows forked heads or slave children my daughters you answer\nwith a deprecatory shrug number so many\n\nSo the conversation continues and the more minute are the inquiries the\nmore polite is the questioner\n\nUnlike most of the Western nations the Chinese have an overmastering\ndesire to have children More than death itself the Chinaman fears to\ndie without leaving male progeny to worship at his shrine for if he\nshould die childless he leaves behind him no provision for his support\nin heaven but wanders there a hungry ghost forlorn and forsakenan\norphan because he has no children If one has plenty of money says\nthe Chinese proverb but no children he cannot be reckoned rich if\none has children but no money he cannot be considered poor To have\nsons is a foremost virtue in China the greatest of the three unfilial\nthings says Mencius is to have no children Mencius iv pt i\n26\n\nIn China longevity is the highest of the five grades of felicity\nTriumphal arches are erected all over the kingdom in honour of those who\nhave attained the patriarchal age which among us seems only to be\nassured to those who partake in sufficient quantity of certain\nfruitsalts and pills Age when not known is guessed by the length of\nthe beard which is never allowed to grow till the thirtysecond year\nNow it happens that I am cleanshaven and as it is a wellknown fact\nthat the face of the European is an enigma to the Oriental just as the\nface of the Chinaman is an inscrutable mystery to most of us I have\noften been amused by the varying estimates of my age advanced by curious\nbystanders It has been estimated as low as twelvelook at the\nforeigner they said theres a fine fat boyand never higher than\ntwentytwo But it is not only in China that a youthful appearance has\nhampered me in my walk through life\n\nI remember that on one occasion some years ago I obliged a medical\nfriend by taking his practice while he went away for a few days to be\nmarried It was in a semibarbarian village named Portree in a\nforgotten remnant of Scotland called the Isle of Skye The time was\nwinter The first case I was called to was that of a bashful matron the\nbakers wife who had lately given birth to her tenth child I entered\nthe room cheerfully She looked me over critically and then greatly\ndisconcerted me by remarking that She was gey thankfu to the Lord\nthat it was a by afore I cam as she had nae wush to be meddled wi by\na laddie of nineteen Yet I was two years older than the doctor who had\nattended her\n\nIf in China you are so fortunate as to be graced with a beard the\nChinaman will add many years to your true age In the agreeable company\nof one of the finest men in China I once made a journey to the Nankow\nPass in the Great Wall north of Peking My friend had a beard like a\nWelsh bards and though a younger man than his years fortyfour\nthere was not a native who saw him who did not gaze upon him with awe\nas a possible Buddha and not one who attributed to him an age less than\neighty\n\nNext day the 28th of April despite my misgivings my men fulfilled\ntheir promise and led me into Tali on the ninth day out from Yunnan We\nhad come 307 miles in nine days They walked all the way living\nfrugally on scanty rations I walked only 210 miles I was better fed\nthan they and I had a pony at my hand ready to carry me whenever I was\ntired\n\nMy men thus earned a reward of eighteen pence each for doing thirteen\nstages in nine days Long before daylight we were on our way For miles\nand miles in the early morning we were climbing up the mountains till\nwe reached a plateau where the wind blew piercingly keen and my fingers\nached with the cold and the rarefaction in the atmosphere made\nbreathing uneasy The road was lonely and unfrequented We were\naccompanied by a muleteer who knew the way by his sturdy son of twelve\nand his two pack horses By midday we had left the bare plateau had\npassed the three pagoda peaks and were standing on the brow of a steep\nhill overlooking the valleys of Chaochow and Tali The plains were\nstudded with thriving villages in rich fields and intersected with\nroadways lined with hedges There on the left was the walled city of\nChaochow beyond to the right was the great lake of Tali hemmed in by\nmountains those beyond the lake thickly covered with snow and rising\n7000 feet above the lake which itself is 7000 feet above the sea\n\nWe descended into the valley and as we picked our way down the steep\npath I could count in the lap of the first valley eighteen villages\nbesides the walled city Crossing the fields we struck the main road\nand mingled with the stream of people who were bending their steps\ntowards Hsiakwan Many varieties of feature were among them a diversity\nof type unlooked for by the traveller in China who had become habituated\nto the uniformity of type of the Chinese face There were faces plainly\nEuropean others as unmistakably Hindoo Indigenes of Yunnan province\nThibetans Cantonese pedlars and Szechuen coolies A broad flagged road\nbrought us to the important market town of Hsiakwan which guards the\nsouthern pass to the Valley of Tali It is on the main road going west\nto the frontier of Burma and is the junction where the road turns north\nto Tali It is a busy town It is one of the most famous halting places\non the main road to Burma The two largest caravanserais in Western\nChina are in Hsiakwan and I do not exaggerate when I say that a\nregiment of British cavalry could be quartered in either of them At a\nrestaurant near the crossroad we had rice and a cup of tea and a bowl\nof the vermicelli soup known as _mien_ the muleteer and his son sitting\ndown with my men When the time came to go the muleteer unrolling a\nstring of cash from his waistband was about to pay his share when\nLaohwan with much civility refused to permit him He insisted but\nLaohwan was firm had they been Frenchmen they could not have been more\npolite and complimentary The muleteer gave way with good grace and\nLaohwan paid with my cash and gained merit by his courtesy\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XVII\n\nTHE CITY OF TALIPRISONSPOISONINGPLAGUES AND MISSIONS\n\n\nThree hours later we were in Tali A broad paved road smooth from the\npassage of countless feet leads to the city Rocky creeks drain the\nmountain range into the lake they are spanned by numerous bridges of\ndressed stone many of the slabs of which are well cut granite blocks\neighteen feet in length At a stall by the roadside excellent ices were\nfor sale genuine ices made of concave tablets of pressed snow\nsweetened with treacle costing one cash eachequal to one penny for\nthree dozen We passed the Temple to the Goddess of Mercy and entered\nTali by the south gate Then by the yamen of the Titai and the Great\nFive Glory Gate the northern entrance of what was for seventeen years\nthe palace of the Mohammedan king during the rebellion we turned down\nthe East street to the _Yesutang_ the Inland Mission where Mr and\nMrs John Smith gave me a cordial greeting\n\nTali has always been an important city It was the capital of an\nindependent kingdom in the time of Kublai Khan and Marco Polo It was\nthe headquarters of the Mohammedan Sultan or Dictator Tu Wen Hsiu\nduring the rebellion and seemed at one time destined to become the\ncapital of an independent Moslem Empire in Western China\n\nThe city surrendered to the Mohammedans in 1857 It was recaptured by\nthe Imperialists under General Yang Yuko on January 15th 1873 the\nChinese troops being aided by artillery cast by Frenchmen in the arsenal\nof Yunnan and manned by French gunners At its recapture the carnage was\nappalling the streets were ankledeep in blood Of 50000 inhabitants\n30000 were butchered After the massacre twentyfour panniers of human\nears were sent to Yunnan city to convince the people of the capital that\nthey had nothing more to fear from the rebellion\n\nIn March 1873 Yang was appointed _Titai_ or Commanderinchief of\nYunnan Province with his headquarters in Tali not in the capital and\nTali has ever since been the seat of the most important military command\nin the province\n\nThe subsequent history of Yang may be told in a few words He assumed\ndespotic power over the country he had conquered and grew in power till\nhis authority became a menace to the Imperial Government They feared\nthat he aspired to found a kingdom of his own in Western China and\nrecalled him to Pekingto do him honour He was not to be permitted to\nreturn to Yunnan At the time of his recall another rebellion had broken\nout against Chinathe rebellion of the Frenchand like another Uriah\nthe powerful general was sent to the forefront in Formosa where he was\nopportunely slain by a French bullet or by a misdirected Chinese one\n\nAfter his death it was found that Yang had made a noble bequest to the\nCity of Tali During his residence he had built for himself a splendid\nyamen of granite and marble This he had richly endowed and left as a\nfree gift to the city as a college for students It is one of the\nfinest residences in China and though only seventy undergraduates were\nliving there at the time of my visit the rooms could accommodate in\ncomfort many hundreds\n\nIllustration SNOWCLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU\n\nTali is situated on the undulating ground that shelves gently from the\nbase of snowclad mountains down to the lake The lower slopes of the\nmountain above the town are covered with myriads of gravemounds\nwhich in the distance are scarcely distinguishable from the granite\nblocks around them Creeks and rills of running water spring from the\nmelting of the snows far up the mountain run among the gravemounds\nand are then trained into the town The Chinese residents thus enjoy the\nprivilege of drinking a diluted solution of their ancestors Halfway to\nthe lake there is a huge tumulus of earth and stone overgrown with\ngrass in which are buried the bones of 10000 Mohammedans who fell\nduring the massacre There is no more fertile valley in the world than\nthe valley of Tali It is studded with villages Between the two passes\nHsiakwan on the south and Shangkwan on the north which are distant\nfrom each other a long days walk there are 360 villages each in its\nown plantation of trees with a pretty white temple in the centre with\ncurved roof and upturned gables The sunny reaches of the lake are busy\nwith fleets of fishing boats The poppy grown in small pockets by the\nmargin of the lake is probably unequalled in the world the flowers as\nI walked through the fields were on a level with my forehead\n\nTali is not a large city its wall is only three and a half miles in\ncircumference Before the rebellion populous suburbs extended halfway\nto Hsiakwan but they are now only heaps of rubble In the town itself\nthere are marketgardens and large open spaces where formerly there\nwere narrow streets of Chinese houses The wall is in fairly good\nrepair but there are no guns in the town except a few oldfashioned\ncannon lying half buried in the ground near the north gate\n\nOne afternoon we climbed up the mountain intending to reach a famous\ncave The Phoenixeyed Cave _Fungyentung_ which overlooks a\nprecipice of some fame in years gone by as a favourite spot for\nsuicides We did not reach the cave My energy gave out when we were\nonly halfway so we sat down in the grass and to use a phrase that I\nfancy I have heard before we feasted our eyes on the scene before us\nAnd here we gathered many bunches of edelweiss\n\nAs we were coming back down the hill picking our way among the graves\na pensive Chinaman stopped us to ask our assistance in finding him a\nlucky spot in which to bury his father who died a year ago but was\nstill above ground He was sorry to hear that we could not pretend to\nany knowledge of such things He was of an inquiring mind for he then\nasked us if we had seen any precious stones in the hillsideevery\nChinaman knows that the foreigner with his blue eyes can see four feet\nundergroundbut he was again disappointed with our reply or did not\nbelieve us\n\nAt the poor old shrine to the God of Riches half a dozen Chinamen in\nneed of the gods good offices were holding a small feast in his honour\nThey had prepared many dishes and having dedicated to the god the\nspiritual essence were now about to partake of the insipid remains\n_Ching fan_ they courteously said to us when we approached down the\npath We invite you to take rice We raised our clasped hands\n_Ching ching_ we replied we invite you to go on we invite and\npassed on They were bent upon enjoyment They were taking as an\n_aperitif_ a preliminary cup of that awful spirit _tsiu_ which is\nalmost pure alcohol and can be burnt in lamps like methylated spirit\n\nOn the level sward between this poor temple and the city the annual\nThibetan Fair is held on the 17th 18th and 19th of April when\ncaravans of Thibetans with herds of ponies make a pilgrimage from\ntheir mountain villages to the ancient home of their forefathers But\nthe fair is falling into disfavour owing to the increasing number of\nlikinbarriers on the northern trade routes\n\nThere are many temples in Tali The finest is the Confucian Temple with\nits splendid halls and pavilions in a beautiful garden Kwanti the God\nof War has also a temple worthy of a god whose services to China in the\npast can never be forgotten Every Chinaman knows that if it had not\nbeen for the personal aid of this god General Gordon could never have\nsucceeded in suppressing the Taiping rebellion In the present rebellion\nof the Japanese the god appears to have maintained an attitude of\nstrict neutrality\n\nThe City Temple is near the drillground As the Temple of a Fu city it\ncontains the images of both Fu magistrate and Hsien magistrate with\ntheir attendants In its precincts the _Kwan_ of the beggars the\nbeggar king or headman is domiciled who eats the Emperors rice and\nis officially responsible for the good conduct of the guild of beggars\n\nIn the main street there is a Memorial Temple to General Yang who won\nthe city back from the Mohammedans But the temple where prayer is\noffered most earnestly is the small temple near the _Yesutang_\nerected to the goddess who has in her power the dispensation of the\npleasures of maternity Rarely did I pass here without seeing two or\nthree childless wives on their knees praying to the goddess to remove\nfrom them the sin of barrenness\n\nSome of the largest caravanserais I have seen in China are in Tali One\nof the largest belongs to the city and is managed by the authorities\nfor the benefit of the poor all profits being devoted to a poorrelief\nfund There are many storerooms here filled with foreign goods and\nstores imported from Burma and useful wares and ornamental nicknacks\nbrought from the West by Cantonese pedlars Prices are curiously low I\nbought condensed milk Milkmaid brand for the equivalent of _7d_ a\ntin In the inn there is stabling accommodation for more than a hundred\nmules and horses and there are rooms for as many drivers The tariff\ncannot be called immoderate The charges are For a mule or horse per\nnight fodder included one farthing for a man per night a supper of\nrice included one penny\n\nEven larger than the city inn is the caravanserai where my pony was\nstabled it is more like a barracks than an inn One afternoon the\nlandlord invited the missionary and me into his guestroom and as I was\nthe chief guest he insisted of course that I should occupy the seat\nof honour on the left hand But I was modest and refused to he\npersisted and I was reluctant he pushed me forward and I held back\nprotesting against the honour he wished to show me But he would take no\nrefusal and pressed me forward into the seat I showed becoming\nreluctance of course but I would not have occupied any other Byandby\nhe introduced to me with much pride his aged father to whom when he\ncame into the room I insisted upon giving my seat and humbly sat on\nan inferior seat by his side showing him all the consideration due to\nhis eighty years The old man bore an extraordinary resemblance to\nMoltke He had smoked opium he told Mr Smith the missionary for\nfifty years but always in moderation His daily allowance was two\n_chien_ of raw opium rather more than onefifth of an ounce but he\nknew many Chinese he told the missionary who smoked daily five times\nas much opium as he did without apparent injury\n\nIn Tali there are four chief officials the Prefect or Fu Magistrate\nthe Hsien or City Magistrate the Intendant or Taotai and the Titai\nThe yamen of the Taotai is a humble residence for so important an\nofficial but the yamen of the Titai between the South Gate and the\nFive Glory Tower is one of the finest in the province The Titai is not\nonly the chief military commander of the province of Yunnan but he is a\nvery much married man An Imperialist he has yet obeyed the Mohammedan\ninjunction and taken to himself four wives in order to be sure of\nobtaining one good one He has been abundantly blessed with children In\noffices at the back of the Titais yamen and within its walls is the\nlocal branch of the Imperial Chinese telegraphs conducted by two\nChinese operators who can read and write English a little and can\nspeak crudely a few sentences\n\nThe City Magistrate is an advanced opiumsmoker a slave to the pipe\nwho neglects his duties In his yamen I saw the wooden cage in which\nprisoners convicted of certain serious crimes are slowly done to death\nby starvation and exhaustion as well as the wooden cages of different\nshape in which criminals of another class condemned to death are carried\nto and from the capital\n\nThe City prison is in the Hsiens yamen but permission to enter was\nrefused me though the missionary has frequently been admitted The\nprison explained the Chinese clerk is private and strangers cannot\nbe admitted I was sorry not to be allowed to see the prison all the\nmore because I had heard from the missionary nothing but praise of the\nhumanity and justice of its management\n\nThe gaols of China or as the Chinese term them the hells just as\nthe prison hulks in England forty years ago were known as floating\nhells have been universally condemned for the cruelties and\ndeprivations practised in them They are probably as bad as were the\nprisons of England in the early years of the present century\n\nThe gaolers purchase their appointments as they did in England in the\ntime of John Howard and as was the case in England they receive no\nother pay than what they can squeeze from the prisoners or the\nprisoners friends Poor and friendless the prisoners fare badly But I\nquestion if the cruelties practised in the Chinese gaols allowing for\nthe blunted nerve sensibility of the Chinaman are less endurable than\nthe condition of things existing in English prisons so recently as when\nCharles Reade wrote It is Never Too Late to Mend The cruelties of\nHawes the punishment jacket the crank the dark cell and\nstarvation the living tortured the dying abandoned the dead kicked\nout of the way when boys of fifteen like Josephs were driven to\nselfslaughter by cruelty These are statements published in 1856\nevery detail of which was verified every fact obtained by research\nand observation Life of Charles Reade ii 33\n\nAnd it cannot admit I think of question that there are no cruelties\npractised in the Chinese gaols greater even if there are any equal to\nthe awful and degraded brutality with which the England of our fathers\ntreated her convicts in the penal settlements of Norfolk Island Fort\nArthur Macquarie Harbour and the prison hulks of Williamstown The\nconvict settlements were terrible cesspools of iniquity so bad that it\nseemed to use the words of one who knew them well the heart of man\nwho went to them was taken from him and there was given to him the\nheart of a beast\n\nCan the mind conceive of anything more dreadful in China than the\nincident narrated by the Chaplain of Norfolk Island the Rev W\nUllathorne DD afterwards Roman Catholic Bishop of Birmingham in his\nevidence before the Commission of the House of Commons in 1838 As I\nmentioned the names of those men who were to die they one after\nanother as their names were pronounced dropped on their knees and\nthanked God that they were to be delivered from that horrible place\nwhilst the others remained standing mute weeping It was the most\nhorrible scene I have ever witnessed\n\nThose who have read Marcus Clarkes For the Term of His Natural Life\nremember the powerfullydrawn character of Maurice Frere the Governor\nof Norfolk Island It is well known of course that the story is\nfounded upon fact and is a perfectly true picture of the convict days\nThe original of Maurice Frere is known to have been the late Colonel\n who was killed by the convicts in the prison hulk Success at\nWilliamstown in 1853 To this day there is no old lag that was ever\nexposed to his cruelty but reviles his memory I once knew the convict\nwho gave the signal for his murder He was sentenced to death but was\nreprieved and served a long term of imprisonment The murder happened\nfortyone years ago yet to this day the old convict commends the\nmurder as a just act of retribution and when he narrates the story he\ntells you with bitter passion that the Colonels dead and if theres\na hell hes frizzling there yet\n\nCaptain Foster Fyans a former Governor of Norfolk Island Convict\nSettlement spent the last years of his life in the town I belong to\nGeelong in Victoria The cruelties imposed on the convicts under his\ncharge were justified he declared by the brutalised character of the\nprisoners On one occasion he used to tell a band of convicts\nattempted to escape from the Island but their attempt was frustrated by\nthe guard The twelve convicts implicated in the outbreak were put on\ntheir trial found guilty and sentenced to death by strangulation as\nhanging really was in those days Word was sent to headquarters in\nSydney and instructions were asked for to carry the sentence into\neffect The laconic order was sent back from Sydney to hang half of\nthem The Captain acknowledged the humour of the despatch though it\nplaced him in a difficulty Which half should he hang when all were\nequally guilty In his pleasant way the Captain used to tell how he\nacted in the dilemma He went round to the twelve condemned wretches\nand asked each man separately if being under sentence of death he\ndesired a reprieve or wished for death As luck would have it of the\ntwelve men six pleaded for life and six as earnestly prayed that they\nmight be sent to the scaffold So the Captain hanged the six men who\nwished to live and spared the six men who prayed for death to release\nthem from their awful misery This is an absolutely true story which I\nhave heard from men to whom the Captain himself told it Besides it\nbears on its face the impress of truth And yet we are accustomed to\nspeak of the Chinese as centuries behind us in civilisation and\nhumanity\n\nI went to two opiumpoisoning cases in Tali both being cases of\nattempted suicide The first was that of an old man living not _at_ the\nSouth Gate as the messenger assured us who feared to discourage us if\nhe told the truth but more than a mile beyond it On our way we bought\nin the street some sulphate of copper and a large dose made the old man\nso sick that he said he would never take opium again and if he did he\nwould not send for the foreign gentleman\n\nThe other was that of a young bride a girl of unusual personal\nattraction only ten days married who thus early had become weary of\nthe pockmarked husband her parents had sold her to She was dressed\nstill in her bridal attire which had not been removed since marriage\nshe was dressed in redthe colour of happiness She was dressed in her\nbest all ready for the journey and was determined to die because\ndead she could repay fourfold the injuries which she had received while\nliving In this case many neighbours were present and as all were\nanxious to prevent the liberation of the girls evil spirit I proved to\nthem how skilful are the barbarian doctors The bride was induced to\ndrink hot water till it was she declared on a level with her neck\nthen I gave her a hypodermic injection of that wonderful emetic\napomorphia The effect was very gratifying to all but the patient\n\nSmallpox or as the Chinese respectfully term it Heavenly Flowers\nis a terrible scourge in Western China It is estimated that two\nthousand deathsthere is a charming vagueness about all Chinese\nfiguresfrom this disease alone occur in the course of a year in the\nvalley of Tali Inoculation is practised as it has been for many\ncenturies by the primitive method of introducing a dried pockscab on\na lucky day into one of the nostrils The people have heard of the\nresults of Western methods of inoculation and immense benefit could be\nconferred upon a very large community by sending to the Inland Mission\nin Talifu a few hundred tubes of vaccine lymph Vaccination introduced\ninto Western China would be a means the most effective that could be\nimagined to check the death rate over that large area of country which\nwas ravaged by the civil war and whose reduced population is only a\nsmall percentage of the population which so fertile a country needs for\nits development Infanticide is hardly known in that section of Yunnan\nof which Tali may be considered the capital Smallpox kills the\nchildren There is no need for a mother to sacrifice her superfluous\nchildren for she has none\n\nAnother disease endemic in Yunnan is the bubonic plague which is no\ndoubt identical with the plague that has lately played havoc in Hong\nKong and Canton Cantonese peddlers returning to the coast probably\ncarried the germs with them\n\nThe China Inland Mission in Tali was the last of the mission stations\nwhich I was to see on my journey This is the furthest inland of the\nstations of the Inland Mission in China It was opened in 1881 by Mr\nGeorge W Clarke the most widelytravelled with the single exception\nof the late Dr Cameron of all the pioneer missionaries of this brave\nsociety I think Mr Clarke told me that he has been in fourteen out of\nthe eighteen provinces His work here was not encouraging he was\ntreated with kindness by the Chinese but they refused to accept the\ntruth when he placed it before them\n\nFor the Bible and the Light of Truth says Miss Guinness in her\ncharming but hysterical Letters from the Far Easta book that has\ndeluded many poor girls to ChinaFor the Bible and the Light of Truth\nthe Chinese cry with outstretched empty longing hands p 173 But\nthis allegation unhappily conflicts with facts when applied to Tali\n\nFor the first eleven years the mission laboured here without any success\nwhatever but now a happier time seems coming and no less than three\nconverts have been baptised in the last two years\n\nThere are now three missionaries in Talithere are usually four they\nare universally respected by the Chinese they have made their little\nmission home one of the most charming in China Mr John Smith who\nsucceeded Mr Clarke has been ten years in Tali He is welcomed\neverywhere and in every case of serious sickness or opiumpoisoning he\nis sent for During all the time he has been in Tali he has never\nrefused to attend a summons to the sick whether by day or night In the\ncourse of the year he attends on an average between fifty and sixty\ncases of attempted suicide by opium in the town or its environs and if\ncalled in time he is rarely unsuccessful Should he be called to a case\noutside the city wall and be detained after dark the city gate will be\nkept open for him till he returns The city magistrate has himself\npublicly praised the benevolence of this missionary and said there is\nno man in Tali like Mr Smithwould that there were others He is a\nChristian in word and deed brave and simple unaffected and\nsympatheticthe type of missionary needed in Chinaan honour to his\nmission I saw the courageous man working here almost alone far distant\nfrom all Western comforts cut off from the world and almost unknown\nand I contrasted him with those other missionariesthe majoritywho\nlive in luxurious missionhouses in absolute safety in the treaty ports\nyet whose courage and selfdenial we have accustomed ourselves to\npraise in England and America when with humble voices they parade the\ndangers they undergo and the hardships they endure in preaching dear\nfriends to the perishing heathen in China Gods lost ones\n\nIn addition to the three converts who have been baptised in Tali in the\nlast two years there are two inquirersone the mission cookwho are\nnearly ready for acceptance At the Sunday service I met the three\nconverts One is the paid teacher in the mission school another is a\nhumble pedlar the third is a courageous native belonging to one of the\nindigenous tribes of Western China a Minchia man whose conversion\njudged by all tests is one of those genuine cases which bring real joy\nto the missionary He has only recently been baptised Every Sunday he\ncomes in fifteen li from the small patch of ground he tills to the\nmission services His son is at the mission school and is boarded on\nthe premises There is a small school in connection with the mission\nunder the baptised teacher where eight boys and eight girls are being\ntaught They are learning quickly their wonderful gifts of memory being\na chief factor in their progress At the service there was another\nworshipper a sturdy boy of fourteen who slept composedly all through\nthe exhortation If any boy should feel gratitude towards the kind\nmissionaries it is he They have reared him from the most degraded\npoverty have taught him to read and write and are now on the eve of\napprenticing him to a carpenter He was a beggar boy the son of a\nprofessional beggar who with unkempt hair and in rags and filth used\nto shamble through the streets gathering reluctant alms The father\ndied and some friends would have sold his son to pay the expenses of\nhis burial but the missionaries intervened and to save the son from\nslavery buried his father This action gave them some claim to help the\nboy and the boy has accordingly been with them since in a comfortable\nkindly home instead of grovelling round the streets in squalor and\nnakedness\n\nThe missionhouse formerly occupied by Mr George Clarke is near the\nCity Temple We went to see it a day or two after my arrival It is now\nin the possession of a family of Mohammedans one of the very few Moslem\nfamilies still living in the valley of Tali When we were in possession\nof the valley said the father sorrowfully we numbered 12000 tens\n120000 souls now we are 100 fives 500 souls Our men were slain\nour women were taken in prey only a remnant escaped the destroyer\nSeveral members of the family were in the court when we entered and\namong the men were three with marked AngloSaxon features a peculiarity\nfrequently seen in Western China where every traveller has given a\ndifferent explanation of the phenomenon One especially moved my\ncuriosity for he possessed to an absurd degree the closest likeness to\nmyself Could I give him any higher praise than that\n\nThat the Mohammedan Chinese is physically superior to his Buddhist\ncountryman is acknowledged by all observers there is a fearlessness and\nindependence of bearing in the Mohammedan a militant carriage that\ndistinguishes him from the Chinese unbeliever His religion is but a\nthinly diluted Mohammedanism and excites the scorn of the true\nbelievers from India who witness his devotion or rather his want of\ndevotion\n\nOne of the men talking to us in the old missionhouse was a\ncomicallooking fellow whose headdress differed from that of the\nother Chinese in that in addition to his queue lappets of hair were\ndrawn down his cheeks in the fashion affected by old ladies in England\nI raised these strange locksimpudent curiosity is often polite\nattention in Chinawhereupon the reason for them was apparent The body\nbequeathed to him by his fathers had been mutilatedhe had suffered the\nremoval of both ears He explained to us how he came to lose them but\nwe knew even before he told us he had lost them in battle facing the\nenemyand of course we believed him The less credulous would\nassociate the mutilation with a case of theft and its detection and\npunishment by the magistrate but a bottlenosed man says the Chinese\nproverb may be a teetotaller and yet no one will think so\n\nOur milkman at the mission was a follower of the Prophet and the milk\nhe gave us was usually as reduced in quality as are his coreligionists\nin number In the milk he supplied there was what a chemist describes as\na remarkable absence of butter fat Yet when he was reproached for his\ndeceit he used piously to say even when met coming from the well I\ncould not put a drop of water in the milk for there is a God up\nthereand he would jerk his chin towards the skywho would see me if\nI did\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XVIII\n\nTHE JOURNEY FROM TALI WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE CHARACTER OF THE\nCANTONESE CHINESE EMIGRANTS CRETINS AND WIFEBEATING IN CHINA\n\n\nThe three men who had come with me the six hundred and seventeen miles\nfrom Chaotong left me at Tali to return all that long way home on foot\nwith their wellearned savings I was sorry to say goodbye to them but\nthey had come many miles further than they intended and their friends\nthey said would be anxious besides Laohwan you remember was newly\nmarried\n\nI engaged three new men in their places They were to take me right\nthrough to Singai Bhamo Every day was of importance now with four\nhundred and fifty miles to travel and the rainy season closing in\nLaotseng was the name of the Chinaman whom I engaged in place of\nLaohwan He was a fine young fellow active as a deer strong and\nhighspirited I agreed to pay him the fancy wage of _24s_ for the\njourney He was to carry no load but undertook in the event of either\nof my coolies falling sick to carry his load until a new coolie could\nbe engaged The two coolies I engaged through a cooliehong One was a\nstronglybuilt man a chop dollar goodhumoured but of rare\nugliness The other was the thinnest man I ever saw outside a Bowery\ndimeshow He had the opium habit He was an opiumeater rather than an\nopiumsmoker and he ate the ash from the opiumpipe instead of the\nopium itselfthe most vicious of the methods of taking opium He was\nthe nearest approach I saw in China to the Exeter Hall type of\nopiumeater whose wasted limbs and palsied hands cry out against the\nsin of the opium traffic Though a victim of the injustice of England\nthis man had never tasted Indian opium in his life and perishing as he\nwas in body and soul going straight to eternal damnation his dying\nwail unheard he yet undertook a journey that would have deterred the\nmajority of Englishmen and agreed to carry at forced speed a far\nheavier load than the English soldier is ever weighted with on march\nThe two coolies were to be paid 4 taels each _12s_ for the twenty\nstages to Singai and had to find their own board and lodging But I\nalso stipulated to give them _churo_ money pork money of 100 cash each\nat three placesYungchang Tengyueh and Bhamo100 cash each a day\nextra for every day that I detained them on the way and in addition I\nwas to reward them with 150 cash each a day for every day that they\nsaved on the twenty days journey days that I rested not to count\n\nOf course none of the three men spoke a word of English All were\nnatives of the province of Szechuen and all carried out their agreement\nto the letter\n\nOn May 3rd I left Tali The last and longest stage of all the journey\nwas before me a distance of some hundreds of miles which I had to\ntraverse before I could hope to meet another countryman or foreigner\nwith whom I could converse The two missionaries Mr Smith and Mr\nGraham kindly offered to see me on my way and we all started together\nfor Hsiakwan leaving the men to follow\n\nTen li from Tali we stopped to have tea at one of the many teahouses\nthat are grouped round the famous temple to the Goddess of Mercy the\n_Kwanyintang_ The scene was an animated one The open space between\nthe temple steps and the temple theatre opposite was thronged with\nChinese of strange diversity of feature crying their wares from under\nthe shelter of huge umbrellas There is always a busy traffic to\nHsiakwan and every traveller rests here if only for a few minutes For\nthis is the most famous temple in the valley of Tali The Goddess of\nMercy is the friend of travellers and no thoughtful Chinese should\nventure on a journey without first asking the favour of the goddess and\nobtaining from her priests a forecast of his success The temple is a\nfine specimen of Chinese architecture It was built specially to record\na miracle In the chief court surrounded by the temple buildings there\nis a huge granite boulder lying in an ornamental pond It is connected\nby marble approaches and is surmounted by a handsome monument of\nmarble which is faced on all sides with memorial tablets This boulder\nwas carried to its present position by the goddess herself the monument\nand bridges were built to detain it where it lay and the temple\nafterwards erected to commemorate an event of such happy augury for the\nbeautiful valley\n\nIllustration MEMORIAL IN THE TEMPLE OF THE GODDESS OF MERCY NEAR\nTALIFU\n\nBut the temple has not always witnessed only scenes of mercy Two years\nago a tragedy was enacted here of strange interest At a religious\nfestival held here in April 1892 and attended by all the high\nofficials and by a crowd of sightseers a thief taking advantage of the\ncrush tried to snatch a bracelet from the wrist of a young woman and\nwhen she resisted he stabbed her He was seized redhanded dragged\nbefore the Titai who happened to be present and ordered to be\nbeheaded there and then An executioner was selected from among the\nsoldiers but so clumsily did he do the work hacking the head off by\nrepeated blows instead of severing it by one clean cut that the\nfriends of the thief were incensed and vowed vengeance That same night\nthey lay in wait for the executioner as he was returning to the city\nand beat him to death with stones Five men were arrested for this\ncrime they were compelled to confess their guilt and were sentenced to\ndeath As they were being carried out to the executionground one of\nthe condemned pointed to two men who were in the crowd of sightseers\nand swore that they were equally concerned in the murder So these two\nmen were also put on their trial with the result that one was found\nguilty and was equally condemned to death As if this were not\nsufficient at the execution the mother of one of the prisoners when\nshe saw her sons head fall beneath the knife gave a loud scream and\nfell down stonedead Nine lives were sacrificed in this tragedy the\nwoman who was stabbed recovered of her wound\n\nHsiakwan was crowded as it was market day We had lunch together at a\nChinese restaurant and then my men having come up the kind\nmissionaries returned and I went on alone A river the Yangki River\ndrains the Tali Lake and leaving the southwest corner of the lake\nflows through the town of Hsiakwan and so on west to join the Mekong\nFor three days the river would be our guide A mile from the town the\nriver enters a narrow defile where steep walls of rock rise abruptly\nfrom the banks The road here passes under a massive gateway Forts now\ndismantled guard the entrance the pass could be made absolutely\nimpregnable At this point the torrent falls under a natural bridge of\nunusual beauty We rode on by the narrow bank along the river crossed\nfrom the left to the right bank and continued on through a beautiful\ncountry sweet with the scent of the honeysuckle to the charming little\nvillage of Hokiangpu Here we had arranged to stay The inn was a large\none and very clean Many of its rooms were already occupied by a large\nparty of Cantonese returning home after the Thibetan Fair with loads of\nopium\n\nThe Cantonese using the term in its broader sense as applied to the\nnatives of the province of Kuangtung are the Catalans of China They\nare as enterprising as the Scotch adapt themselves as readily to\ncircumstances are enduring canny and successful you meet them in the\nmost distant parts of China They make wonderful pilgrimages on foot\nThey have the reputation of being the most quickwitted of all Chinese\nLarge numbers come to Tali during the Thibetan Fair and in the opium\nseason They bring all kinds of foreign goods adapted for Chinese\nwantscheap pistols and revolvers mirrors scales fancy pictures and\na thousand gewgaws useful as well as attractiveand they return with\nopium They travel in bands marching in single file their carrying\npoles pointed with a steel spearhead two feet long serving a double\nusea carrying pole in peace a formidable spear in trouble\n\nEverywhere they can be distinguished by their dress by their enormous\noiled sunshades and by their habit of tricing their loads high up to\nthe carrying pole They are always well clad in dark blue their heads\nare always cleanly shaved their feet are well sandalled and their\ncalves neatly bandaged They have a travelled mien about them and carry\nthemselves with an air of conscious superiority to the untravelled\nsavages among whom they are trading To me they were always polite and\namiable they recognised that I was like themselves a stranger far\nfrom home\n\nThis is the class of Chinese who emigrating from the thicklypeopled\nsoutheastern provinces of China already possess a predominant share of\nthe wealth of Borneo Sumatra Java Timor the Celebes and the\nPhilippine Islands Burma Siam Annam and Tonquin the Straits\nSettlements Malay Peninsula and Cochin China There is hardly a tiny\nislet visited by our naturalists in any part of these seas but Chinamen\nare found And it is this class of Chinese who have already driven us\nout of the Northern Territory of Australia and whose unrestricted entry\ninto the other colonies we must prevent at all hazards We cannot\ncompete with Chinese we cannot intermix or marry with them they are\naliens in language thought and customs they are working animals of\nlow grade but great vitality The Chinese is temperate frugal\nhardworking and lawevading if not lawabidingwe all acknowledge\nthat He can outwork an Englishman and starve him out of the\ncountryno one can deny that To compete successfully with a Chinaman\nthe artisan or labourer of our own flesh and blood would require to be\ndegraded into a mere mechanical beast of labour unable to support wife\nor family toiling seven days in the week with no amusements\nenjoyments or comforts of any kind no interest in the country\ncontributing no share towards the expense of government living on food\nthat he would now reject with loathing crowded with his fellows ten or\nfifteen in a room that he would not now live in alone except with\nrepugnance Admitted freely into Australia the Chinese would starve\nout the Englishman in accordance with the law of currencythat of two\ncurrencies in a country the baser will always supplant the better In\nVictoria says Professor Pearson a single tradethat of\nfurnituremakingwas taken possession of and ruined for white men\nwithin the space of something like five years In the small colony of\nVictoria there are 9377 Chinese in a population of 1150000 in all\nChina with its population of 350000000 there are only 8081\nforeigners Dyer Ball a large proportion of whom are working for\nChinas salvation\n\nThere is not room for both in Australia Which is to be our colonist\nthe Asiatic or the Englishman\n\nIn the morning we had another beautiful walk round the snowclad\nmountains to the village of Yangpi at the back of Tali There was a\nlong delay here News of my arrival spread and the people hurried along\nto see me No sooner was I seated at an inn than two messengers from the\nyamen called for my passport They were officious young fellows sadly\nwanting in respect and they asked for my passport in a noisy way that I\ndid not like so I would not understand them I only smiled at them in\nthe most friendly manner possible I kept them for some time in a fever\nof irritation at their inability to make me understand I listened with\nimperturbable calmness to their excited phrases till they were nearly\ndancing Then I leisurely produced my passport as if to satisfy a\ncuriosity of my own and began scanning it Seeing this they rudely\nthrust forth their hands to seize it but I had my eye on them Not so\nquick my friends I said soothingly Be calm nervous irritability\nis a fruitful source of trouble See here is my passport here is the\nofficial seal and here the name of your unworthy servant Now I fold it\nup carefully andput it back in my pocket But here is a copy which\nis at your service If you wish to show the original to the magistrate\nI will take it to his honour myself but out of my hands it does not\npass They looked puzzled as they did not understand English they\ndebated a minute or two and then went away with the copy which in due\ntime they politely returned to me\n\nIf you wish to travel quickly in China never be in a hurry Appear\nunconscious of all that is passing never be irritated by any delay and\nassume complete indifference even when you are really anxious to push\non Emulate too that leading trait in the Chinese character and never\nunderstand anything which you do not wish to understand No man on earth\ncan be denser than a Chinaman when he chooses\n\nLet me give an instance It was not so long ago in a police court in\nMelbourne that a Chinaman was summoned for being in possession of a\ntenement unfit for human habitation The case was clearly proved and he\nwas fined _L1_ But in no way could John be made to understand that a fine\nhad been inflicted He sat there with unmoved stolidity and all that\nthe court could extract from him was My no savvy no savvy After\nsaying this in a voice devoid of all hope he sank again into silence\nHere rose a wellknown lawyer With your worships permission I think\nI can make the Chinaman understand he said He was permitted to try\nStriding fiercely up to the poor Celestial he said to him in a loud\nvoice John you are fined two pounds No dam fear Only _one_\n\nCrossing now the river by a wellconstructed suspension bridge we had a\nfearful climb of 2000 feet up the mountain My coolie Bones nearly\ndied on the way Then there was a rough descent by a jagged path down\nthe rocky side of the mountainriver to the village of Taipingpu It\nwas long after dark when we arrived and an hour later stalked in the\ngaunt form of poor Bones who instead of eating a good meal coiled\nup on the _kang_ and smoked an opiumpipe that he borrowed from the\nchairen All the next day and indeed for every day till we reached\nTengyueh our journey was one of the most arduous I have ever known The\nroad has to surmount in succession parallel ridges of mountains The\nroad is never even for it cannot remain where travelling is easiest\nbut must continually dip from the crest of the ranges to the depths of\nthe valleys\n\nShortly before reaching Huanglienpu my pony cast a shoe and it was\nsome time before we were able to have it seen to but I had brought half\na dozen spare shoes with me and byandby a muleteer came along who\nfixed one on as neatly as any farrier could have done and gladly\naccepted a reward of one halfpenny He kept the foot steady while\nshoeing it by lashing the fetlock to the ponys tail\n\nCaravans of cotton coming from Burma were meeting us all day Miles away\nthe booming of their gongs sounded in the silent hills a long time\nafterwards their bells were heard jingling and byandby the mules and\nhorses appeared under their huge bales of cotton the foremost decorated\nwith scarlet tufts and plumes of pheasant tails the last carrying the\nsaddle and bedding of the headman as well as the burly headman himself\nperched above all A man with a gong always headed the way there was a\ndriver to every five animals In the sandy bed of the river at one place\na caravan was resting Their packs were piled in parallel rows their\nhorses browsed on the hillside I counted 107 horses in this one\ncaravan\n\nThe prevailing pathological feature of the Chinese of Western Yunnan is\nthe deformity goitre It may safely be asserted that it is as common in\nmany districts as are the marks of smallpox Goitre occurs widely in\nAnnam Siam Upper Burma the Shan States and in Western China as far\nas the frontier of Thibet It is distinctly associated with cretinism\nand its interrupted intellectual development And the disease must\nincrease for there is no attempt to check it To be a thickneck is no\nbar to marriage on either side The goitrous intermarry and have\nchildren who are goitrous or rather who will if exposed to the same\nconditions as their parents inevitably develop goitre Frequently the\ndisease is intensified in the offspring into cretinism and I can\nconceive of no sight more disgusting than that which so often met our\nview of a goitrous mother suckling her imbecile child On one\nafternoon among those who passed us on the road I counted eighty\npersons with the deformity On another day nine adults were climbing a\npath by which we had just descended every one of whom had goitre In\none small village out of eighteen fullgrown men and women whom I met\nin the street down which I rode fifteen were affected My diary in the\nWest especially from Yunnan City to Yungchang after which point the\ncases greatly diminished in number became a monotonous record of cases\nAt the mission in Tali three women are employed and of these two are\ngoitrous the third a Minchia woman is free from the disease and I\nhave been told that among the indigenes the disease is much less common\nthan among the Chinese On all sides one encounters the horrible\ndeformity among all classes of all ages The disease early manifests\nitself and I have often seen wellmarked enlargement in children as\nyoung as eight Turn any street corner in any town of importance in\nWestern Yunnan and you will meet half a dozen cases there must be few\nfamilies in the western portion of the province free from the taint\n\nOn a day for example like this May 5th when the road was more than\nusually mountainous though that may have been an accident my chairen\nwas a thickneck and my two soldiers were thicknecks At the village\nof Huanglienpu where I had lunch the landlady of the inn had a\ngoitrous neck that was swelled out halfway to the shoulder and her son\nwas a slobberingmouthed cretin with the intelligence of an animal And\namong the people who gathered round me in a dull apathetic way every\nother one was more or less marked with the disease and its attendant\nmental phenomena Again at the inn in a little mountain village where\nwe stopped for the night mother father and every person in the house\nto the number of nine above the age of childhood was either goitrous or\ncretinous dull of intelligence mentally verging upon dementia in three\ncases in two of which physical growth had been arrested at childhood\n\nRarely during my journey to Burma was I offended by hearing myself\ncalled _Yang kweitze_ foreign devil although this is the universal\nappellation of the foreigner wherever Mandarin is spoken in China\nToday however May 6th I was seated at the inn in the town of\nChutung when I heard the offensive term I was seated at a table in the\nmidst of the accustomed crowd of Chinese I was on the highest seat of\ncourse because I was the most important person present when a\nbystander seeing that I spoke no Chinese coolly said the words _Yang\nkweitze_ foreign devil I rose in my wrath and seized my whip You\nChinese devil _Chung kweitze_ I said in Chinese and then I assailed\nhim in English He seemed surprised at my warmth but said nothing and\nturning on his heel walked uncomfortably away\n\nI often regretted afterwards that I did not teach the man a lesson and\ncut him across the face with my whip yet had I done so it would have\nbeen unjust He called me as I thought _Yang kweitze_ but I have no\ndoubt having told the story to Mr Warry the Chinese adviser to the\nGovernment of Burma that he did not use these words at all but others\nso closely resembling them that they sounded identically the same to my\nuntrained ear and yet signified not foreign devil but honoured\nguest He had paid me a compliment he had not insulted me The\nYunnanese Mr Warry tells me do not readily speak of the devil for\nfear he should appear\n\nOn my journey I made it a rule acting advisedly to refuse to occupy\nany other than the best room in the inn and if there was only one\nroom I required that the best bed in the room as regards elevation\nshould be given to me So too at every inn I insisted that the best\ntable should be given me and if there were already Chinese seated at\nit I gravely bowed to them and by a wave of my hand signified that it\nwas my pleasure that they should make way for the distinguished\nstranger When there was only the one table I occupied as by right\nits highest seat refusing to sit in any other I required indeed by\npoliteness and firmness that the Chinese take me at my own valuation\nAnd they invariably did so They always gave way to me They recognised\nthat I must be a traveller of importance despite the smallness of my\nretinue and the homeliness of my attire and they acknowledged my\nsuperiority Had I been content with a humbler place it would quickly\nhave been reported along the road and little by little my complacence\nwould have been tested I am perfectly sure that by never verging from\nmy position of superiority I gained the respect of the Chinese and it\nis largely to this I attribute the universal respect and attention shown\nme during the journey For I was unarmed entirely dependent upon the\nChinese and for all practical purposes inarticulate As it was I\nnever had any difficulty whatever\n\nChinese etiquette pays great attention to the question of position so\nimportant indeed is it that when a carriage was taken by Lord\nMacartneys Embassy to Peking as a present or as the Chinese said as\ntribute to the Emperor Kienlung great offence was caused by the\narrangement of the seats requiring the driver to sit on a higher level\nthan His Majesty A small enough mistake surely but sufficient to mar\nthe success of an expedition which the Chinese have always regarded as\none of the most splendid testimonials of respect that a tributary\nnation ever paid their Court\n\nOn the morning of May 7th as we were leaving the village where we had\nslept the night before we were witnesses of a domestic quarrel which\nmight well have become a tragedy On the green outside their cabin a\nhusband with goitre enraged against his goitrous wife was kept from\nkilling her by two elderly goitrous women All were speaking with\nhorrible goitrous voices as if they had cleft palates and the husband\nwas hoarse with fury Jealousy could not have been the cause of the\nquarrel for his wife was one of the most hideous creatures I have seen\nin China Throwing aside the bamboo with which he was threatening her\nthe husband ran into the house and was out again in a moment\nbrandishing a long native sword with which he menaced speedy death to\nthe joy of his existence I stood in the road and watched the\ndisturbance and with me the soldierguard who did not venture to\ninterfere But the two women seized the angry brute and held him till\nhis wife toddled round the corner Now if this were a determined woman\nshe could best revenge herself for the cruelty that had been done her by\ngoing straightway and poisoning herself with opium for then would her\nspirit be liberated ever after to haunt her husband even if he escaped\npunishment for being the cause of her death If in the dispute he had\nkilled her he would be punished with strangulation after the usual\nperiod the sentence laid down by the law and often recorded in the\n_Peking Gazette_ _eg_ May 15th 1892 unless he could prove her\nguilty of infidelity or want of filial respect for his parents in\nwhich case his action would be praiseworthy rather than culpable If\nhowever in the dispute the wife had killed her husband or by her\nconduct had driven him to suicide she would be inexorably tied to the\ncross and put to death by the _Ling chi_ or degrading and slow\nprocess For a wife to kill her husband has always been regarded as a\nmore serious crime than for a husband to kill his wife even in our own\nhighly favoured country till within a few years of the present century\nthe punishment for the man was death by hanging but in the case of the\nwoman death by burning alive\n\nLet me at this point interpolate a word or two about the method of\nexecution known as the _Ling chi_ The words are commonly and quite\nwrongly translated as death by slicing into 10000 piecesa truly\nawful description of a punishment whose cruelty has been\nextraordinarily misrepresented It is true that no punishment is more\ndreaded by the Chinese than the _Ling chi_ but it is dreaded not\nbecause of any torture associated with its performance but because of\nthe dismemberment practised upon the body which was received whole from\nits parents The mutilation is ghastly and excites our horror as an\nexample of barbarian cruelty but it is not cruel and need not excite\nour horror since the mutilation is done not before death but after\nThe method is simply the following which I give as I received it\nfirsthand from an eyewitnessThe prisoner is tied to a rude cross\nhe is invariably deeply under the influence of opium The executioner\nstanding before him with a sharp sword makes two quick incisions above\nthe eyebrows and draws down the portion of skin over each eye then he\nmakes two more quick incisions across the breast and in the next moment\nhe pierces the heart and death is instantaneous Then he cuts the body\nin pieces and the degradation consists in the fragmentary shape in\nwhich the prisoner has to appear in heaven As a missionary said to me\nHe cant lie out that he got there properly when he carries with him\nsuch damning evidence to the contrary\n\nIllustration THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG\n\nIn China immense power is given to the husband over the body of his\nwife and it seems as if the tendency in England were to approximate to\nthe Chinese custom Is it not a fact that if a husband in England\nbrutally maltreats his wife kicks her senseless and disfigures her for\nlife the average English bench of unpaid magistrates will find\nextenuating circumstances in the fact of his being the husband and will\nrarely sentence him to more than a month or twos hard labour\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIX\n\nTHE MEKONG AND SALWEEN RIVERSHOW TO TRAVEL IN CHINA\n\n\nToday May 7th we crossed the River Mekong even at this distance from\nSiam a broad and swift stream The river flows into the light from a\ndark and gloomy gorge takes a sharp bend and rolls on between the\nmountains Where it issues from the gorge a suspension bridge has been\nstretched across the stream A wonderful pathway zigzags down the face\nof the mountain to the river in an almost vertical incline of 2000ft\nAt the riverside an embankment of dressed stone built up from the rock\nleads for some hundreds of feet along the bank where there would\notherwise have been no foothold to the clearing by the bridge The\nlikinbarrier is here and a teahouse or two and the guardian temple\nThe bridge itself is graceful and strong swinging easily 30ft above\nthe current it is built of powerful chains carried from bank to bank\nand held by masses of solid masonry set in the bedrock It is 60 yards\nlong and 10ft wide is floored with wood and has a picket parapet\nsupported by lateral chains From the river a path led us up to a small\nvillage where my men rested to gather strength For facing us were the\nmountain heights which had to be escaladed before we could leave the\nriver gulch Then with immense toil we climbed up the mountain path by\na rocky staircase of thousands of steps till worn out and with\nBones nearly dead we at length reached the narrow defile near the\nsummit whence an easy road brought us in the early evening to Shuichai\n6700ft\n\nIn the course of one afternoon we had descended 2000ft to the river\n4250ft above the sea and had then climbed 2450ft to Shuichai And\nthe ascent from the river was steeper than the descent into it yet the\nrailway which is to be built over this traderoute between Burma and\nYunnan will have other engineering difficulties to contend with even\ngreater than this\n\nMy soldier today was a boy of fifteen or sixteen He was armed with a\nrevolver and bore himself valiantly But his revolver was more\ndangerous in appearance than in effect for the cylinder would not\nrevolve the hammer was broken short off and there were no cartridges\nEverywhere the weapon was examined with curiosity blended with awe and\nI imagine that the Chinese were told strange tales of its deadliness\n\nNext morning we continued by easy gradients to Talichao 7700ft\nrising 1000ft in rather less than seven miles It was bitterly cold in\nthe mists of the early morning But twenty miles further the road dipped\nagain to the sunshine and warmth of the valley of Yungchang where in\nthe city made famous by Marco Polo we found comfortable quarters in an\nexcellent inn\n\nYungchang is a large town strongly walled It is however only a\nremnant of the old city acres of houses having been destroyed during\nthe insurrection when for three years it is said Imperialists and\nMohammedans were contending for its possession There is a telegraph\nstation in the town The streets are broad and wellpaved the inns\nlarge and the temples flourishing One fortunate circumstance the\ntraveller will notice in Yungchangthere is a marked diminution in the\nnumber of cases of goitre And the diminution is not confined to the\ntown but is apparent from this point right on to Burma\n\nLong after our arrival in Yungchang my opiumeating coolie Bones had\nnot come and we had to wait for him in anger and annoyance He had my\nhamper of eatables and my bundle of bedding Tired of waiting for him I\nwent for a walk to the telegraph office and was turning to come back\nwhen I met the faithful skeleton a mile from the inn walking along as\nif to a funeral his neck elongating from side to side like a camels a\nlean and hungry look in his staring eyes his bones crackling inside his\nskin Continuing in the direction that he was going when I found him he\nmight have reached Thibet in time but never Burma I led him back to\nthe hotel where he ruefully showed me his empty string of cash as if\nthat had been the cause of his delay he had only 6 cash left and he\nwanted an advance\n\nThis was the worst coolie I had in my employ during my journey But he\nwas a goodnatured fellow and honest He was better educated too than\nmost of the other coolies and could both read and write His dress on\nmarch was characteristic of the man He was nearly naked his clothes\nhardly hung together he wore no sandals on his feet but round his neck\nhe carried a small earthenware phial of opium ash In the early stages\nhe delayed us all an hour or two every day but he improved as we went\nfurther And then he was so long and thin so grotesque in his gait and\nafforded me such frequent amusement that I would not willingly have\nexchanged him for the most active coolie in China\n\nIllustration INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE IN FAR WESTERN CHINA\n\nOn the 9th we had a long and steep march west from the plain of\nYungchang At Pupiao I had a public lunch It was market day and the\ncountry people enjoyed the rare pleasure of seeing a foreigner feed The\nstreet past the inn was packed in a few minutes and the innkeeper had\nall he could do to attend to the many customers who wished to take tea\nat the same time as the foreigner I was now used to these\ndemonstrations I could eat on with undisturbed equanimity On such\noccasions I made it a practice when I had finished and was leaving the\ninn to turn round and bow gravely to the crowd thanking them in a few\nkindly words of English for the reception they had accorded me At the\nsame time I took the opportunity of mentioning that they would\ncontribute to the comfort of future travellers if only they would pay a\nlittle more attention to their table manners Then addressing the\ninnkeeper I thought it only right to point out to him that it was\nabsurd to expect that one small black cloth should wipe all cups and\ncuplids all tables all spilt tea and all dishes all through the\nday without getting dirty Occasionally too I pointed out another\ndefect of management to the innkeeper and told him that while I\npersonally had an open mind on the subject other travellers might come\nhis way who would disapprove for instancehe would pardon my\nmentioning itof the manure coolie passing through the restaurant with\nhis buckets at mealtime and halting by the table to see the stranger\neat\n\nWhen I spoke in this way quite seriously and bowed those whose eyes met\nmine always bowed gravely in return And for the next hour on the track\nmy men would tell each other with cackles of laughter how Mo Shensen\ntheir master mystified the natives\n\nFrom Pupiao we had a pleasant ride over a valleyplain between hedges\nof cactus in flower and bushes of red roses past graceful clumps of\nbamboo waving like ostrich feathers Byandby drizzling rain came on\nand compelled us to seek shelter in the only inn in a poor\noutoftheway hamlet But I could not stop here because the best room\nin the inn was already occupied by a military officer of some\ndistinction a colonel on his way like ourselves to Tengyueh An\nofficial chair with arched poles fitted for four bearers was in the\ncommonroom the mules of his attendants were in the stables and were\nvaluable animals The landlord offered me another room an inferior one\nbut I waved the open fingers of my left hand before my face and said\n_puyao puyao_ I dont want it I dont want it For I was not so\nfoolish or inconsistent as to be content with a poorer quarter of the\ninn than that occupied by the officer whatever his button I could not\nacknowledge to the Chinese that any Chinaman travelling in the Middle\nKingdom was my equal let alone my superior Refusing to remain I\nwaited in the front room until the rain should lift and allow us to\nproceed But we did not require to go on It happened as I expected The\nColonel sent for me and bowing to me showed by signs that one half\nhis room was at my service In return for his politeness he had the\nprivilege of seeing me eat With both hands I offered him in turn every\none of my dishes Afterwards I showed him my photographsI treated him\nindeed with proper condescension\n\nOn the 10th we crossed the famous River Salween 2600 ft Through an\nopen tableland well grassed and sparsely wooded we came at length to\nthe cleft in the hills from which is obtained the first view of the\nriver valley There was a small village here and while we were taking\ntea a soldier came hurriedly down the road who handed me a letter\naddressed in Chinese I confess that at the moment I had a sudden\nmisgiving that some impediment was to be put in the way of my journey\nBut it was nothing more than a telegram from Mr Jensen in Yunnan\ntelling me of the decision of the Chinese Government to continue the\ntelegraph to the frontier of Burma The telegram was written by the\nChinese operator in Yungchang in a neat round hand without any error of\nspelling it had come to Yungchang after my departure and had been\ncourteously forwarded by the Chinese manager The soldier who brought it\nhad made a hurried march of thirtyeight miles before overtaking me and\ndeserved a reward I motioned Laotseng my cashbearer to give him a\npresent and he meanly counted out 25 cash and was about to give them\nwhen I ostentatiously increased the amount to 100 cash The soldier was\ndelighted the onlookers were charmed with this exhibition of Western\nmunificence Suppose a rich Chinese traveller in England who spoke no\nEnglish were to offer Tommy Atkins twopence halfpenny for travelling on\nfoot thirtyeight miles to bring him a telegram having then to walk\nback thirtyeight miles and find himself on the way would the English\nsoldier bow as gratefully as did his perishing Chinese brother when I\nthus rewarded him\n\nWe descended by beautiful open country into the Valley of the Shadow of\nDeaththe valley of the River Salween No other part of Western China\nhas the evil repute of this valley its unhealthiness is a byword It\nis impossible to pass says Marco Polo the air in summer is so impure\nand bad and any foreigner attempting it would die for certain\n\nThe Salween was formerly the boundary between Burma and China and it is\nto be regretted that at the annexation of Upper Burma England did not\npush her frontier back to its former position But the delimitation of\nthe frontier of Burma is not yet complete No time could be more\nopportune for its completion than the present when China is distracted\nby her difficulties with Japan China disheartened could need but little\npersuasion to accede to the just demand of England that the frontier of\nBurma shall be the true southwestern frontier of Chinathe Salween\nRiver\n\nThere are no Chinese in the valley nor would any Chinaman venture to\ncross it after nightfall The reason of its unhealthiness is not\napparent except in the explanation of Baber that border regions\ndebatable grounds are notoriously the birthplace of myths and\nmarvels There can be little doubt that the deadliness of the valley is\na tradition rather than a reality\n\nBy flights of stone steps we descended to the river where at the\nbridgelanding we were arrested by a sight that could not be seen\nwithout emotion A prisoner chained by the hands and feet and cooped in\na wooden cage was being carried by four bearers to Yungchang to\nexecution He was not more than twentyone years of age was\nwelldressed and evidently of a rank in life from which are recruited\nfew of the criminals of China Yet his crime could not have been much\ngraver On the corner posts of his cage white strips of paper were\nposted giving his name and the particulars of the crime which he was so\nsoon to expiate He was a burglar who had escaped from prison by killing\nhis guard and had been recaptured Unlike other criminals I have seen\nin China who laugh at the stranger and appear unaffected by their lot\nthis young fellow seemed to feel keenly the cruel but welldeserved fate\nthat was in store for him Three days hence he would be put to death by\nstrangulation outside the wall of Yungchang\n\nIllustration THE RIVER SALWEEN THE FORMER BOUNDARY BETWEEN CHINA AND\nBURMA\n\nAnother of those remarkable works which declare the engineering skill of\nthe Chinese is the suspension bridge which spans the Salween by a\ndouble loopthe larger loop over the river the smaller one across the\noverflow A natural piece of rock strengthened by masonry rising from\nthe river bed holds the central ends of both loops The longer span is\n80 yards in length the shorter 55 both are 12ft wide and are formed\nof twelve parallel chain cables drawn to an appropriate curve A rapid\nriver flows under the bridge the rush of whose waters can be heard high\nup the mountain slopes\n\nNone but Shans live in the valley They are permitted to govern\nthemselves under Chinese supervision and preserve their own laws and\ncustoms They have a village near the bridge of grassthatched huts and\nopen booths where travellers can find rest and refreshment and where\nnative women prettily arrayed in darkblue will brew you tea in\nearthenware teapots Very different are the Shan women from the Chinese\nTheir colour is much darker their headdress is a circular pile formed\nof concentric folds of darkblue cloth their dress closely resembles\nwith its jacket and kilt the bathing dress of civilisation their arms\nare bare they have gaiters on their legs and do not compress their\nfeet All wear brooches and earrings and other ornaments of silver\nfiligree\n\nFrom the valley the main road rises without intermission 6130 feet to\nthe village of Fengshuiling 8730 feet a climb which has to be\ncompleted in the course of the afternoon We were once more among the\ntrees Pushing on till I was afraid we should be benighted we reached\nlong after dark an encampment of bamboo and grass in the lonely bush\nwhere the kind people made us welcome It was bitterly cold during the\nnight for the hut I slept in was open to the air My three men and the\nescort must have been even colder than I was But at least we all slept\nin perfect security and I cannot praise too highly the constant care of\nthe Chinese authorities to shield even from the apprehension of harm one\nwhose only protection was his British passport\n\nAll the way westward from Yunnan City I was shadowed both by a\nyamenrunner and a soldier both were changed nearly every day and the\nfurther west I went the more frequently were they armed The\nyamenrunner usually carried a long native sword only but the soldier\nin addition to his sword was on one occasion as we have seen armed\nwith the relics of a revolver that would not revolve On May 10th for\nthe first time the soldier detailed to accompany me was provided with a\nrusty old musket with a very long barrel I examined this weapon with\nmuch curiosity China is our neighbour in Eastern Asia and is it is\noften stated an ideal power to be intrusted with the government of the\nbuffer state called for by French aggression in Siam In China it is\nalleged we have a prospective ally in Asia and it is preferable that\nEngland should suffer all reasonable indignities and humilities at her\nhands rather than endanger any possible relations which may\nsubsequently be entered into with a hypothetically powerful neighbour\n\nOn my arrival in Burma I was often amused by the serious questions I was\nasked concerning the military equipment of the Chinese soldiers of\nWestern Yunnan The soldier who was with me today was a type of the\nwarlike sons of China not only in the province bordering on Burma but\nwith slight differences all over the Middle Kingdom Now physically\nthis man was fit to be drafted into any army in the world but apart\nfrom his endurance his value as a fighting machine lay in the weapon\nwith which the military authorities had armed him This weapon was\npeculiar I noted down its peculiarities on the spot In this weapon the\nspring of the trigger was broken so that it could not be pulled if it\nhad been in order there was no cap for the hammer to strike if there\nhad been a cap it would have been of no use because the pinhole was\nrusted even if the pinhole had been open the rifle would still have\nbeen ineffective because it was not loaded for the very good reason\nthat the soldier had not been provided with powder or if he had he\nhad been compelled to sell it in order to purchase the rice which the\nEmperor whose rice he ate had neglected to send him\n\nAn early start in the morning and we descended quickly to the River\nShweli\n\nIllustration THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE\n\nThe Salween River is at an elevation of 2600 feet Fortyfive li further\nthe road reaches at Fengshuiling a height of 8730 from which point in\nthirtyfive li it dips again to the River Shweli 4400 feet above sea\nlevel There was the usual suspension bridge at the river and the\ninevitable likinbarrier For the first time the Customs officials\nseemed inclined to delay me I was on foot and separated from my men by\nhalf the height of the hill The collectors and the underlings who are\nalways hanging about the barriers gathered round me and interrogated me\nclosely They spoke to me in Chinese and with insufficient deference\nThe Chinese seem imbued with the mistaken belief that their language is\nthe vehicle of intercourse not only within the four seas but beyond\nthem and are often arrogant in consequence I answered them in English\nI dont understand one word you say but if you wish to know I said\nenergetically I come from Shanghai Shanghai they exclaimed he\ncomes from Shanghai And I am bound for Singai BhamoSingai\nthey repeated he is going to Singaiunless the Imperial\nGovernment suspicious of my intentions which the meanest intelligence\ncan see are pacific should prevent me in which case England will find\na coveted pretext to add Yunnan to her Burmese Empire Then addressing\nmyself to the noisiest I indulged in some sarcastic speculations upon\nhis probable family history deduced from his personal peculiarities\ntill he looked very uncomfortable indeed Thereupon I gravely bowed to\nthem and leaving them in dumb astonishment walked on over the bridge\nThey probably thought I was rating them in Manchu the language of the\nEmperor Two boys staggering under loads of firewood did not escape so\neasily but were detained and a log squeezed from each wherewith to\nlight the likin fires\n\nA steep climb of another 3000 or 4000 feet over hills carpeted with\nbracken with here and there grassy swards pretty with lilies and\ndaisies and wild strawberries and then a quick descent and we were in\nthe valley of Tengyueh 5600ft A plain everywhere irrigated flanked\nby treeless hills fields shut in by low embankments villages in\nplantations round its margin blackfaced sheep in flocks on the\nhillsides and away to the right the crenellated walls of Tengyueh A\nstoneflagged path down the centre of the plain led us into the town We\nentered by the south gate and turning to the left were conducted into\nthe telegraph compound where I was to find accommodation the clerk in\ncharge of the operators being able to speak a few words of English I\nwas an immediate object of curiosity\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XX\n\nTHE CITY OF TENGYUEHTHE CELEBRATED WUNTHO SAWBWASHAN SOLDIERS\n\n\nI was given a comfortable room in the telegraph offices but I had\nlittle privacy My room was thronged during all the time of my visit\nThe first evening I held an informal and involuntary reception which\nwas attended by all the officials of the town with the dignified\nexception of the BrigadierGeneral The three members of the Chinese\nBoundary Commission which had recently arranged with the British\nCommission the preliminaries to the delimitation of the boundary between\nBurma and China were here disputing with clerks yamenrunners and\nchaircoolies for a sight of my photographs and curiosities The\ntelegraph Manager Pen Yeh the magistrate and a stalwart soldier\nColonel Liu formed the Commission and they retain hallowed\nrecollections of the benignity of the Englishmen and the excellence of\ntheir champagne Colonel Liu proved to be the most enlightened member of\nthe party He is a tall handsome fellow fifty years of age a native\nof Hunan the most warlike and antiforeign province in China He was\nespecially glad to see a foreign doctor The gallant Colonel confided to\nme a wish that had long been uppermost in his heart From some member\nunknown of the British Commission he had learnt of the marvellous\nrejuvenating power of a barbarian medicinecould I get him some\n_Could I get him a bottle of hairdye_ Unlike his compatriots who\nregard the external features of longevity as the most coveted attribute\nof life this gentleman in whose brain the light of civilisation was\ndawning wished to frustrate the doings of age Could I get him a bottle\nof hairdye He was in charge of the fort at Ganai two days out on the\nway to Bhamo and would write to the officer in charge during his\nabsence directing him to provide me with an escort worthy of my\nbenefaction\n\nOne celebrity who lives in the neighbourhood of Tengyueh did not\nfavour me with a visit That famous dacoit the outlawed Prince of\nWunthothe Wuntho Sawbwalives here an exile sheltered by the Chinese\nGovernment A pure Burmese himself the fatherinlaw of the amiable\nSawbwa of Santa he is believed by the Government of Burma to have been\nconcerned in all the Kachin risings of 18921893 A reward of 5000\nrupees is offered for his head which will be paid equally whether the\nhead be on or off the shoulders Another famous outlaw the Shan Chief\nKanhliang is also believed to be in hiding in the neighbourhood of\nTengyueh The value of _his_ head has been assessed at 2000 rupees\n\nTengyueh is more a park than a town The greater part of the city within\nthe walls is waste land or gardens The houses are collected mainly near\nthe south gate and extend beyond the south gate on each side of the\nroad for half a mile on the road to Bhamo There is an excellent wall in\nadmirable order with an embankment of earth 20ft in width But I saw\nno guns of any kind whatever nor did I meet a single armed man in the\ntown or district\n\nTengyueh is so situated that the invading army coming from Burma will\nfind a pleasant pastime in shelling it from the open hills all around\nthe town This was the last stronghold of the Mohammedans It was\nformerly a prosperous border town the chief town in all the fertile\nvalley of the Taiping It was in the hands of the rebels till June 10th\n1873 when it was delivered over to the Imperialists to carnage and\ndestruction The valley is fertile and well populated and prosperity is\nquickly returning to the district\n\nThere is only one yamen in Tengyueh of any pretension and it is the\nofficial residence of a redbutton warrior the BrigadierGeneral\n_Chentai_ Chang the successor though not of course the immediate\nsuccessor of LiSiehtai who was concerned in the murder of Margary\nand the repulse of the expedition under Colonel Horace Browne in 1875 A\ntall handsome Chinaman is Chang of soldierly bearing and blissful\ninnocence of all knowledge of modern warfare Yungchang is the limit of\nhis jurisdiction in one direction the Burmese boundary in the other\nhis only superior officer is the Titai in Tali\n\nThe telegraph office adjoins the City Temple and Theatre of Tengyueh At\nthis time the annual festival was being celebrated in the temple\nTheatrical performances were being given in uninterrupted succession\ndaily for the term of one month Play began at sunrise and the curtain\nfell or would have fallen if there had been a curtain at twilight Day\nwas rendered hideous by the clangour of the instruments which the\nblunted senses of Chinese have been misguided into believing are\nmusical Already the play or succession of plays had continued fifteen\ndays and another thirteen days had yet to be endured before its\ncompletion Crowds occupied the temple court during the performance\nwhile a considerable body of deadheads witnessed the entertainment from\nthe embankment and wall overlooking the open stage My host the\ntelegraph Manager Pen and his two friends Liu and Yeh were given an\nimprovised seat of honour outside my window and here they sat all day\nand sipped tea and cracked jokes No actresses were on the stage the\nfemale parts were taken by men whose makeup was admirable and who\nimitated with curious fidelity the voice and gestures of women The\ndresses were rich and varied Sceneshifters band supers and friends\nremained on the stage during the performance dodging about among the\nactors There is no drop curtain in a Chinese theatre and all scenes\nare changed on the open stage before you The villain whose nose is\npainted white vanquished by triumphant virtue dies a gory death he\nremains dead just long enough to satisfy you that he _is_ dead and then\ngets up and serenely walks to the side There is laughter at sallies of\nindecency and the spectators grunt their applause The Chinaman is\nrarely carried away by his feelings at the theatre indeed it may be\nquestioned if strong emotion is ever aroused in his breast except by\nthe first addresses of the junior members of the China Inland Mission\nthe thrilling effect of whose Chinese exhortations is recorded every\nmonth in _Chinas Millions_\n\nThe Manager of the telegraph to show his good feeling presented me\nwith a stale tin of condensed milk His second clerk and operator was\nthe most covetous man I met in China He begged in turn for nearly every\narticle I possessed beginning with my waterproof which I did not give\nhim and ending with the empty milk tin which I did for Give to him\nthat asketh said Buddha even though it be but a little The chief\noperator in charge of the telegraph offices speaks a little English and\nis the medium by which English messages and letters are translated into\nChinese for the information of the officials His name is Chueh His\nmethod of translation is to glean the sense of a sentence by the\nprobable meaning derived from an inaccurate AngloChinese dictionary\nof the separate words of the sentence He is a broken reed to trust to\nas an interpreter Chueh is not an offensively truthful man When he\nspeaks to you you find yourself wondering if you have ever met a\ngreater liar than he Three mens strength he says cannot prevail\nagainst truth yet he is I think the greatest liar I have met since I\nleft Morocco Indeed the way he spoke of my head boy Laotseng who was\nundoubtedly an honest Chinese and the opinion Laotseng emphatically\nheld of Chueh was a curious repetition of an experience that I had not\nlong ago in Morocco I was living in Tangier when I had occasion to go\nto Fez and Mequinez My visit was arranged so hurriedly that I had no\nmeans of learning what was the degree of personal esteem attaching to\nthe gentleman a resident of Tangier who was to be my companion I\naccordingly interrogated the hotelkeeper Mr B What kind of a man is\nD I asked Not a bad fellow he replied if he wasnt such a\nblank blank awful liar On the road to Wazan I became very friendly\nwith D and one day questioned him as to his private regard for Mr B\nof the hotel A fine fellow B seems I said very friendly and\nentertaining What do you think of him What do I think of him he\nshouted in his falsetto I _know_ hes the biggest blank liar in\nMorocco It was pleasant to meet even in Morocco such a rare case of\nmutual esteem\n\nMy pony fared badly in Tengyueh There was a poor stable in the\ncourtyard with a tiled roof that would fall at the first shower There\nwere no beans The pony had to be content with rice or paddy which it\ndisliked equally The rice was _112d_ the 712lbs There was no\ngrass Chueh said to be obtained in the district He assured me so on\nhis honour or its Chinese equivalent but I sent out and bought some in\nthe street round the corner\n\nSilver in Tengyueh is the purest Szechuen or Yunnanese silver Rupees\nare also current and at this time were equivalent to 400 cashthe tael\nat the same time being worth 1260 cash Every 10 taels costing me\n_30s_ in Shanghai I could exchange in Tengyueh for 31 rupees Rupees\nare the chief silver currency west from Tengyueh into Burma\n\nOn May 31st I had given instructions that we were to leave early but my\nmen who did not sleep in the telegraph compound were late in coming\nTo still further delay me at the time of leaving no escort had made its\nappearance I did not wait for it We marched out of the town\nunaccompanied and were among the tombstones on the rise overlooking the\ntown when the escort hurriedly overtook us It consisted of a\nquietmannered chairen and two soldiers one of whom was an impudent cub\nthat I had to treat with every indignity He was armed with a sword\ncarried in the folds of his red cincture in which was also concealed an\nold muzzleloading pistol formidable to look at but unloaded This was\none of the days on my journey when I wished that I had brought a\nrevolver not as a defence in case of danger for there was no danger\nbut as a menace on occasion of anger\n\nRain fell continuously At a small village thronged with muleteers from\nBhamo we took shelter for an hour The men sipping tea under the\nverandahs had seen Europeans in Bhamo and my presence evoked no\ninterest whatever Many of these strangers possessed an astonishing\nlikeness to European friends of my own Contact with Europeans causing\nthe phenomena of maternal impression was probably in a few cases\naccountable for the moulding of their features but the general\nprevalence of the European type has yet to be explained My conscience\nWho could ever have expected to meet _you_ here I was often on the\npoint of saying to some Chinese Shan or Burmese Shan in whom to my\nconfusion I thought I recognised a college friend of my own\n\nLeaving the village we followed the windings of the River Taiping\ncoasting along the edge of the high land on the left bank of the river\n\nIllustration THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH Stalls\nunder the Umbrellas\n\nRain poured incessantly the creeks overflowed the paths became\nwatercourses and were scarcely fordable Bones my opiumeating coolie\nwith the long neck slipped into a hole which was too deep even for his\nlong shanks and all my bedding was wetted It was ninety li to Nantien\nthe fort we were bound to beyond Tengyueh and we finished the distance\nby sundown The town is of little importance It is situated on an\neminence and is surrounded by a wall built with that strange spirit of\ncontrariness characteristic of the Chinese and because it incloses a\nfort more weakly than any city wall It is not more substantial nor\nhigher than the wall round many a mission compound Some 400 soldiers\nare stationed in the fort which means that the commander draws the pay\nfor 1000 soldiers and represents the strength of his garrison as 1000\nTheir arms are primitive and rusty muzzleloaders of many patterns\nthere are no guns to be seen if there are any in existencewhich is\ndoubtful The few rusty castiron tenpounders that lie _hors de combat_\nin the mud have long since become useless There may be ammunition in\nthe fort but there is none to be seen It is more probable and more in\naccordance with Chinese practice in such matters that the ammunition\nleft by his predecessor if any were left which is doubtful has long\nago been sold by the colonel in command whose perquisite this would\nnaturally be\n\nThe fort of Nantien is a fort in name onlyit has no need to be\notherwise for peace and quiet are abroad in the valley Besides the\nmere fact of its being called a fort is sufficiently misleading to the\nneighbouring British province of Burma where they are apt to picture a\nChinese fort as a structure seriously built in some accordance with\nmodern methods of fortification\n\nI was given a comfortable room in a large inn already well filled with\ntravellers All treated me with pleasant courtesy They were at supper\nwhen I entered the room and they invited me to share their food They\ngave me the best table to myself and after supper they crowded into\nanother room in order to let me have the room to myself\n\nNext day we continued along the sandy bed of the river which was here\nmore than a mile in width The river itself shrunk now into its\nsmallest size flowed in a double stream down the middle Then we left\nthe river and rode along the high bank flanking the valley All paved\nroads had ended at Tengyueh and the track was deeply cut and jagged by\nthe rains At one point in todays journey the road led up an almost\nvertical ascent to a narrow ledge or spur at the summit and then fell\nas steeply into the plain again It was a shortcut that as you would\nexpect in China required five times more physical effort to compass\nthan did the longer but level road which it was intended to save So\nnarrow is the ridge that the double row of open sheds leaves barely room\nfor pack mules to pass The whole traffic on the caravan route to Burma\npasses by this spot The long bamboo sheds with their grass roofs are\ndivided into stalls where Shan women in their fantastic turbans with\nsilver bracelets and earrings their lips and teeth stained with\nbeteljuice sit behind the counters of raised earth and eagerly\ncompete for the custom of travellers More than half the women had\ngoitre Before them were laid out the various dishes There were pale\ncuts of pork well soaked in water to double their weight eggs and\ncabbage and salted fish bean curds and a doubtful tea flavoured with\ncamomile and wild herbs There were hampers of coarse grass for the\nhorses and wooden bowls of cooked rice for the men while hollow\nbamboos were used equally to bring water from below to hold sheaves of\nchopsticks where the traveller helped himself and to receive the cash\nTrade was busy Muleteers are glad to rest here after the climb if only\nto enjoy a puff of tobacco from the bamboopipe which is always carried\nby one member of the party for the common use of all\n\nDescending again into the river valley I rode lazily along in the sun\ntaking no heed of my men who were soon separated from me The broad\nriverbed of sand was before me as level as the waters of a lake As I\nwas riding slowly along by myself away from all guard I saw\napproaching me in the lonely plain a small body of men They were moving\nquickly along in single file and we soon met and passed each other\nThey were three Chinese Shan officers on horseback dressed in Chinese\nfashion and immediately behind them were six soldiers on foot who I\nsaw were Burmese or Burmese Shans They were smart men clad in loose\njerseys and knickerbockers with sunhats and bare legs and they\nmarched like soldiers Cartridgebelts were over their left shoulders\nand MartiniHenry rifles carried muzzle foremost on their right I\ntook particular note of them because they were stepping in admirable\norder and though small of stature I thought they were the first armed\nmen I had met in all my journey across China who could without shame be\npresented as soldiers in any civilised country\n\nThey passed me but seemed struck by my appearance and I had not gone a\ndozen yards before they all stopped by a common impulse and when I\nlooked back they were still there in a group talking with the officers\nhorses turned towards me and it was very evident I was the subject of\ntheir conversation I was alone at the time far from all my men\nwithout weapon of any kind I was dressed in full Chinese dress and\nmounted on an unmistakably Chinese pony I rode unconcernedly on but I\nmust confess that I did not feel comfortable till I was assured that\nthey did not intend to obtrude an interview upon me At length to my\nrelief the party continued on its way while I hurried on to my\ncoolies and made them wait till my party was complete I was probably\nalarmed without any reason But it was not till I arrived in Burma that\nI learnt that this was the armed escort of the outlawed Wuntho Sawbwa\nthe dacoit chief who has a price set on his head The soldiers rifles\nand cartridgebelts had been stripped from the dead bodies of British\nsepoys killed on the frontier in the Kachin Hills\n\nMy men when we were all together again indicated to me by signs that\nI would shortly meet an elephant and I thought that at last I was about\nto witness the realisation of that story everywhere current in Western\nChina of the British tribute from Burma Sure enough we had not gone\nfar when at the foot of a headland which projected into the plain we\ncame full upon a large elephant picking its way along the margin of the\nrocksa remarkable sight to my Chinese Its scarlet howdah was empty\nits trappings were scarlet the mahout was a Shan It was the elephant\nof the Wuntho Princea little earlier and I might have had the\nprivilege of meeting the dacoit himself The elephant passed\nunconcernedly on and we continued down the plain of sand to the village\nof Ganai where we were to stay the night\n\nIt was marketday in the town A double row of stalls extended down the\nmain street each stall under the shelter of a huge umbrella Japanese\nmatches from Osaka were for sale here and foreign nicknacks needles\nand braid and cotton and Manchester dress stuffs mixed with the\nmultitudinous articles of native produce This is a Shan town but large\nnumbers of native womenKachinswere here also with their ugly black\nfaces and coarse black fringes hiding their low foreheads Far away\nfrom the town an obliging Shan had attached himself to us as guide He\nwas dressed in white cotton jacket and darkblue knickerbockers with a\ndarkblue sash round his waist He was barelegged and rode as the\nChinese do and as you would expect them to do who do everything _al\nreves_ with the heel in the stirrup instead of the toe His turban was\ndarkblue and the pigtail was coiled up under it and did not hang down\nfrom under the skull cap as with the Chinese When I rode into the town\naccompanied by the guide all the people forsook the market street and\nfollowed the illustrious stranger to the inn which had been selected for\nhis restingplace It was a favourite inn and was already crowded The\nbest room was in possession of Chinese travellers who were on the road\nlike myself They were dozing on the couches but what must they do when\nI entered the room but thinking that I should wish to occupy it by\nmyself rise and pack up their things and one after another move into\nanother apartment adjoining which was already well filled and now\nbecame doubly so Their thoughtfulness and courtesy charmed me They\nmust have been more tired than I was but they smiled and nodded\npleasantly to me as they left the room as if they were grateful to me\nfor putting them to inconvenience They may be perishing heathen I\nthought but the average deacon or elder in our enlightened country\ncould scarcely be more courteous\n\nGanai is a mud village thatched with grass It is a military station\nunder the command of the redbutton Colonel Liu whom I met in Tengyueh\nThe Colonel had earned his bottle of hairdye He had written to have me\nprovided with an escort and byandby the two officers who were to\naccompany me on the morrow came in to see me As many spectators as\ncould find elbowroom squeezed into my room behind them Both were\ngentlemanly young fellows very amiable and inquisitive and keenly\ndesirous to learn all they could concerning my honourable family Their\ncuriosity was satisfied By the help of my Chinese phrasebook I gave\nthem all particulars and a few more You see it was important that I\nshould leave as favourable an impression as possible for the benefit of\nfuture travellers More than one of my ancestors I brought to life again\nand endowed with a patriarchal age and a beard to correspond As to my\nown age they marvelled greatly that one so younglooking could be so\nold and when in answer to their earnest question I modestly confessed\nthat I was already the unhappy possessor of two unworthy wives five\nwretched sons and three contemptible daughters their admiration of my\nvirtue increased tenfold\n\nThe officers left me after this but till late at night I held _levees_\nof the townsfolk our landlady who was most zealous no sooner\ndismissing one crowd than another pressed into its place The courtyard\nI believe remained filled till early in the morning but I was allowed\nto sleep at last\n\nA large crowd followed me out of the town in the morning and swarmed\nwith me across the beautiful sward as level as the Oval which here\nwidens into the country No guest was ever sped on his way with a\nkindlier farewell The fort is outside the town we passed it on our\nleft it is a square inclosure of considerable size inclosed by a mud\nwall 15 feet high it is in the unsheltered plain and presents no\nformidable front to an invader At each of the four corners outside the\nsquare are detached foursided watchtowers No guns of any kind are\nmounted on the walls and there are no sentries one could easily\nimagine that the inclosure was a marketsquare but imagination could\nnever picture it as a serious obstacle to an armed entry into Western\nChina The river was well on our right The plain down which we rode is\nof exceeding richness and highly cultivated water being trained into\nthe paddyfields in the same way that everywhere prevails in China\nproper Buffaloes were ploughingwearily plodding through mud and water\nup to their middles We were now among the Shans and those working in\nthe fields were Shans not Chinese Ganai Santa and other places are\nbut little principalities or Shan States governed by hereditary\nprincelets or Sawbwas and preserving a form of selfgovernment under\nthe protection of the Chinese There are no more charming people in the\nworld than the Shans They are courteous hospitable and honest with\nall the virtues and few of the vices of Orientals The elder brothers\nof the Siamese they came originally from the Chinese province of\nSzechuen and they can boast of a civilisation dating from twentythree\ncenturies BC So Terrien de Lacouperie tells us who had a happy\nfaculty of drawing upon his imagination for his facts\n\nUnder the wide branches of a banyan tree I made my men stop for I was\nvery tired and while they waited I lay down for an hour on the grass\nand had a refreshing sleep While I slept the rest of the escort sent\nto _sung_ me to Santa arrived Within a few yards of my resting place\nthere is a characteristic monument dating from the time when Burma\noccupied not only this valley but the fertile territory beyond it and\nbeyond Tengyueh to the River Salween It is a solid Burmese pagoda\nbuilt of concentric layers of brick and mortar and surmounted with a\nsolid bellshaped dome that is still intact It stands alone on the\nplain near a group of banyans and its erection no doubt gained many\nmyriads of merits for the consciencestricken Buddhist who found the\nmoney to build it All goldleaf has been peeled off the pagoda years\nago\n\nIt was a picturesque party that now enfiladed into the wide stretch of\nsand which in the rainy season forms the bed of the river Mounted on\nhis white pony there was the inarticulate European who had discarded\nhis Chinese garb and was now dressed in the aesthetic garments of the\nAustralian bush there were his two coolies and Laotseng his boy none\nof whom could speak any English the two officers in their loose Chinese\nclothes mounted on tough little ponies and eight soldiers They were\nShans of kindly feature small and nimble fellows in neat\nuniformsgreen jackets edged with black and braided with yellow yellow\nsashes and loose darkblue knickerbockersthe uniform of the Sawbwa of\nGanai They were armed with Remington rifles carried their cartridges\nin bandoliers and seemed to be of excellent fighting material All\ntheir accoutrements were in good order\n\nNow we had to cross the broad stream here running with a swift current\nover the sand in channels of varying depths that are frequently\nchanging For the width of nearly half a mile at the crossing place the\nwater was never shallower than to my knee nor deeper than to my waist\nWe all crossed safely but to my tribulation the soldier who was\ncarrying my two boxes tripped in the deepest channel and let both boxes\nslip from the carrying pole into the water All the notes and papers\nupon which this valuable record is founded were much damaged But it\nmight have been worse I had a presentiment that an accident would\nhappen and had waded back to the channel and was standing by at the\ntime But for this the papers might have been floated down to the\nIrrawaddy and been lost to the worldloss irreparable\n\nThe sun was very hot I laid out my things on the bank and dried them\nLong and narrow dugouts as light and swift as the stringtest gigs of\ncivilisation paddled or poled were gliding with extraordinary speed\ndown the channel near the bank Riding then a little way we dismounted\nunder a magnificent banyan tree one of the finest specimens I should\nthink in the world Ponies and men were dwarfed into Lilliputians under\nthe amazing canopy of its branches A number of villagers come to see\nthe foreigner were clambering like monkeys over its roots which\nwrithed in fantastic coils over half an acre Their village was hard\nby a poor array of mud houses the teak temple to which we were\nconducted was raised on piles in the centre of the village The temple\nwas lumbered like an old curiosity shop with fragmentary gods and torn\nmissals Yet the ragged priest in his smirched yellow gown and shaven\nhead that had been a week unshaven seemed to enjoy a reputation for no\ncommon sanctity to judge by the reverence shown him by my followers\nand the contemptuous indifference with which he regarded their\nobeisance He was clubfooted and could only hobble about with\ndifficultyan excuse he would no doubt urge for the disorder of his\nsanctuary To me of course he was very polite and gave me the best\nseat he had while Laotseng prepared me a bowl of cocoa Then we rode\nalong the right bank of the river but kept moving away from the stream\ntill in the distance across the plain at the foot of the hills we saw\nthe Shan town of Santa the end of our days stage\n\nNative women returning from the town were wending their way across the\nplainlank overgrown girls with long thin legs and overhanging mops of\nhair like deckswabs They were a favourite butt of my men who chaffed\nthem in the humorous Eastern manner with remarks that were I am\nafraid more coarse than witty Kachins are not virtuous Their customs\npreclude such a possibility No Japanese maiden is more innocent of\nvirtue than a Kachin girl\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXI\n\nTHE SHAN TOWN OF SANTA AND MANYUEN THE SCENE OF CONSUL MARGARYS\nMURDER\n\n\nIt was market day in Santa and the accustomed crowd gathered round me\nas I stood in the open square in front of the Sawbwas yamen I was hot\nand hungry for it was still early in the afternoon and the attentions\nof the people were oppressive Presently two men pushed their way\nthrough the spectators and politely motioning to me to follow them\nthey led me to a neighbouring temple to the upper storey where the\nside pavilion off the chief hall was being prepared for my reception My\nquarters overlooked the main court the pony was comfortably stabled in\nthe corner below me Nothing could have been pleasanter than the\nattention I received here Two foreign chairs were brought for my use\nand half a dozen dishes of good food and clean chopsticks were set\nbefore me The chief priest welcomed me whose smiling face was\ngoodnature itself With cleanshaven head and a long robe of grey with\na rosary of black and white beads hung loosely from his neck the kind\nold man moved about my room giving orders for my comfort He held\nauthority over a number of priests some in black others in yellow and\nover a small band of choristers Religion was an active performance in\nthe temple and the temple was in good order with clean matting and\nwellkept shrines with strange pictures on the walls of elephants and\nhorses with legends and scrolls in Burmese as well as in Chinese\n\nTowards evening the Santa Sawbwa the hereditary prince what a\nprivilege it was to meet a prince I had never met even a lord before in\nmy life or anyone approaching the rank of a lord except a spurious\nDuke of York whom I sent to the lunatic asylum the _Prince_ of Santa\npaid me a State call accompanied by a wellordered retinue very\ndifferent indeed from the ragged reprobates who follow at the heels of a\nChinese grandee when on a visit of ceremony The Sawbwa occupied one\nchair his distinguished guest the other till the chief priest came in\nwhen with that deep reverence for the cloth which has always\ncharacterised me I rose and gave him mine He refused to take it but I\ninsisted he pretended to be as reluctant to occupy it as any Frenchman\nbut I pushed him bodily into it and that ended the matter\n\nA pleasant kindly fellow is the Prince even among the Shans he is\nconspicuous for his courtesy and amiability He was a great favourite\nwith the English Boundary Commission and in his turn remembers with\nmuch pleasure his association with them Half a dozen times when\nconversation flagged he raised his clasped hands and said Warry\n_Ching ching_ and I knew that this was his foolish heathen way of\nsending greeting to the Chinese adviser of the Government of Burma The\nShan dialect is quite distinct from the Chinese but all the princes or\nprincelets dress in Chinese fashion and learn Mandarin and it was of\ncourse in Mandarin that the Santa Sawbwa conversed with Mr Warry This\nSawbwa is the soninlaw of the exWuntho Sawbwa He rules over a\nterritory smaller than many squatters stations in Victoria He is one\nof the ablest of Shans and would willingly place his little\nprincipality under the protection of England He is thirtyfive years of\nage dresses in full Chinese costume with pigtail and skullcap is\npockmarked and has incipient goitre He is polite and refined chews\nbetel nut to stimulate his meditative faculties and expectorates on\nthe floor with easy freedom I showed him my photographs and he\ngraciously invited me to give him some I nodded cheerfully to him in\nassent rolled them all up again and put them back in my box He knew\nthat I did not understand\n\nWe had tea together and then he took his leave Warry _Ching ching_\nbeing his parting words\n\nAs soon as he had gone the deep druma hollow instrument of wood shaped\nlike a fishwas beaten and the priests gathered to vespers dressed in\nmanycoloured garments of silk and as evening fell they intoned a\nsweet and mournful chant\n\nThe service over all but the choristers entered the room off the\ngallery in which I was lying where looking in I saw them throw off\ntheir gowns and coil themselves on the sleeping benches Opiumlamps\nwere already lit and all were soon inhaling opium all but one who had\nrheumatism and who lying down stretched himself at full length while\na brother priest punched him all over in that primitive method of\nmassage employed by every native race the wide world over\n\nIn the City Temple some festival was being celebrated and night was\nturbulent with the beating of gongs and drums and the bursting of\ncrackers Long processions of priests in their yellow robes were passing\nthe temple in the bright moonlight Priests were as plentiful as\nblackberries if they had been dressed in black instead of yellow the\ntraveller might have imagined that he was in Edinburgh at Assembly time\n\nIn the morning another escort of half a dozen men was ready to accompany\nme for the days stage to Manyuen They were in the uniform of the Santa\nSawbwa in blue jackets instead of green They were armed with rusty\nmuzzleloaders unloaded and with long Burmese swords _dahs_ They\nwere the most amiable of warriors both in feature and manner and were\nunlike the turbaned braves of China who armed no better than these\nmen still regard as did their forefathers fierceness of aspect as an\nimportant factor in warfare _rostro feroz ao enemigo_an illusion\nalso shared in the English army where monstrous bearskin shakos were\nintroduced to increase the apparent height of the soldiers The officer\nin command was late in overtaking me As soon as he came within\nhorselength he let down his queue and bowed reverently and I could see\npride lighting his features as he confessed to the honour that had been\ndone him in intrusting such an honourable and illustrious charge to the\nmean and unworthy care of so contemptible an officer\n\nThe country before us was open meadowland pleasant to ride over only\nhere and there broken by a massive banyan tree Herds of buffaloes were\ngrazing on the hillsides The mud villages were far apart on the margin\nof the riverplain inclosed with superb hedges of living bamboo\n\nThirty li from Santa is the Shan village of Taipingkai It was\nmarketday and the broad main street was crowded We were taken to the\nhouse of an oilmerchant who kindly asked me in and had tea brewed for\nme Earthenware jars of oil were stacked round the room The basement\nopened to the street and was packed in a moment _Dzo Dzo_ Go\ngo cried the master and the throng hustled out to be renewed in a\nminute by a fresh body of curious who had waited their turn\n\nThen we rode on over a country as beautiful as a noblemans park to\nthe town of Manyuen Every here and there by the roadside there are\nsprings of fresh water where travellers can slake their thirst Bamboo\nladles are placed here by devotees whose action will be counted unto\nthem for righteousness for he that piously bestows a little water\nshall receive an ocean in return And where there are no springs neat\nlittle bamboo stalls with shelves are built and in the cool shelter\npitchers of water and bamboo cups are placed so that the thirsty may\nbless the unknown hand which gives him to drink\n\nManyuenor to use the name by which it is better known to foreigners\nManwyneis a large and straggling town overlooking the riverplain It\nwas here that Margary the British Consular Agent was murdered in 1875\nI had a long wait at the yamen gate while they were arranging where to\nsend me but byandby two yamenrunners came and conducted me to the\nCity Temple It was the same temple that Margary had occupied Many\nshavenpated Buddhist priests were waiting for me and received me\nkindly in the temple hall A table was brought for me and the only\nforeign chair and Laotseng was shown where to spread my bedding in the\ntemple hall itself And here I held _levees_ of the townspeople of all\nshades of colour and variety of featureChinese Shan Burmese Kachin\nand hybrid The people were very amiable and I found on all sides the\nsame courtesy and kindliness that Margary describes on his first visit\nBut the crowd was quiet for only a little while then a dispute arose\nIt began in the far corner and the crowd left me to gather round the\ndisputants Voices were raised loud and excited and increased in\nenergy A deadly interest seemed to enthral the bystanders It was easy\nto imagine that they were debating to do with me as they had done with\nMargary The dispute waxed warmer Surely they will come to blows When\nsuddenly the quarrel ceased as it had begun and the crowd came smiling\nback to me What was the dispute The priests were cheapening a chicken\nfor my dinner\n\nThe temple was built on teak piles and teak pillars supported the\ntriple roof It was like a barn or lumber room but for the gilt Buddhas\non the altar and the gilt cabinets by its side containing many smaller\ngilt images of Buddha and his disciples Umbrellas flags and the\ntawdry paraphernalia used in processions were hanging from the beams\nSacerdotal vestments of dingy yellowthe yellow of turmericwere\ntumbled over bamboo rests When the gong sounded for prayers men you\nthought were coolies threw these garments over the left shoulder\nhitched them round the waist and were transformed into priests putting\nthem back again immediately after the service Close under the tiles was\na paper sedanchair to be sent for the use of some rich man in heaven\nPainted scrolls of paper were on the walls and on old ledges were torn\nbooks in the Burmese character which a few boys made a pretence of\nreading Where I slept the floor was raised some feet from the ground\nand underneath seen through the gaping boardsthough previously\ndetected by another of the senseswere a number of coffins freighted\nwith dead waiting for a fit occasion for interment Heavy stones were\nplaced on the lids to keep the dead more securely at rest The lucky\nday for burial would be determined by the priestsit would be\ndetermined by them as soon as the pious relatives had paid sufficiently\nfor their fears So long then as the coffins remained where they were\nthey might be described as capital invested by the priests and returning\nheavy interest removed from the temple they ceased to be productive\n\nAs is the case in so many temples there is an opiumroom in the temple\nat the back of the gilded shrine where priests and neophytes throwing\naside their office can while away the licentious hours till the gong\ncalls them again to prayers\n\nIn the early morning while I was still lying in my pukai on the floor\nI saw many women a large proportion of whom were goitrous come to the\nhall and make an offering of rice and kneel down before the Buddha As\ntime went on and more kept coming in small heaps of rice had collected\nin front of the chief altar and before the cabinets And when the women\nretired a chorister came round and swept with his fingers all the\nlittle heaps into a basket To the gods the spirit To the priests the\nsolid remains\n\nIt was in Manyuen as I have mentioned that Margary met his death on\nFebruary 21st 1875 He had safely traversed China from Hankow to Bhamo\nhad been everywhere courteously treated by the Chinese and been given\nevery facility and protection on his journey He had passed safely\nthrough Manyuen only five weeks before and had then written I come\nand go without meeting the slightest rudeness among this charming\npeople and they address me with the greatest respect And yet five\nweeks later he was killed on his return Even assuming that he was\nkilled in obedience to orders issued by the cruel Viceroy at Yunnan\nCity the notorious Tsen Yueying and not by a lawless Chinese\ntrainband which then infested the district and are believed by Baber to\nhave been the real murderers the British Government must still be held\nguilty of contributory negligence Margary having passed unmolested to\nBhamo there met the expedition under Colonel Horace Browne and\nreturned as its forerunner to prepare for its entry into China by the\nroute he had just traversed The expedition was a peace expedition\nsent by the Government of Burma and numbered only fifty persons in\nall together with a Burmese guard of 150 armed soldiers\n\nSeven years before an expedition under Major Sladen had advanced from\nBurma into Western China as far as Tengyueh had remained in Tengyueh\nfrom May 25th to July 13th 1868 had entered into friendly negotiations\nwith the military governor and other Mohammedan officials in revolt\nagainst China and had remained under the friendly protection of the\nMohammedan insurgents who were then in possession of Western China from\nTengyueh to near Yunnan City To what principles it has been asked\nof justice or equity can we attribute the action of the British in\nretaining their Minister at the capital of an empire while sending a\npeaceful mission to a rebel in arms at its boundaries\n\nThe Mohammedan insurrection was not quelled till the early months of\n1874 And less than a year later the Chinese learned with alarm that\nanother peaceful expedition was entering Western China by the same\nroute under the same auspices and with the identical objects of the\nexpedition which had been welcomed by the leaders of the insurrection\n\nThe Chinese mind was incapable of grasping the fact that the second\nexpedition was planned solely to discover new fields for international\ncommerce and scientific investigation Barbarians as they are they\nfeared that England thereby intended to foster the dying embers of the\nrebellion No time for such an expedition a peaceful trade expedition\ncould have been more illchosen The folly of it was seen in the murder\nof Margary and the repulse of Colonel Horace Browne whose expedition\nwas driven back at Tsurai within sight of Manyuen And this murder\nknown to all the world is the typical instance cited in illustration of\nthe barbarity of the Chinese\n\nChina may be a barbarous country many missionaries have said so and it\nis the fashion so to speak but let us for a moment look at facts\nDuring the last twentythree years foreigners of every nationality and\nevery degree of temperament from the mildest to the most fanatical\nhave penetrated into every nook and cranny of the empire Some have been\nsent back and there has been an occasional riot with some destruction\nof property But all the foreigners who have been killed can be numbered\non the fingers of one hand and in the majority of these cases it can\nhardly be denied that it was the indiscretion of the white man which was\nthe exciting cause of his murder In the same time how many hundreds of\nunoffending Chinese have been murdered in civilised foreign countries\nAn antiforeign riot in Chinaand at what rare intervals do\nantiforeign riots occur in its vast empiremay cause some destruction\nof property but it may be questioned if the destruction done in China\nby the combined antiforeign riots of the last twentythree years\nequalled the looting done by the civilised London mob who a year or two\nago on a certain Black Monday played havoc in Oxfordstreet and\nPiccadilly It is less dangerous says one of the most accurate\nwriters on China the Rev A H Smith himself an American missionary\nfor a foreigner to cross China than for a Chinese to cross the United\nStates And there are few who give the matter a thought but must admit\nthe correctness of Mr Smiths statement\n\nOn May 17th I was on the road again The fort of Manyuen is outside the\ntown and some little distance beyond it the dry creek bends into the\npathway at a point where it is bordered with cactus and overshadowed by\na banyan tree This is said to be the exact spot where Margary was\nkilled\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXII\n\nCHINA AS A FIGHTING POWERTHE KACHINSAND THE LAST STAGE INTO BHAMO\n\n\nWe now left the low land and the open country the pastures and meadows\nand climbed up the jungleclad spurs which form the triangular dividing\nrange that separates the broad and open valley of the Taiping where\nManyuen is situated from the confined and tropical valley of the\nHongmuho which lies at the foot of the English frontier fort of\nNampoung the present boundary of Burma Two miles below Nampoung the\ntwo rivers join and the combined stream flows on to enter the Irrawaddy\na mile or two above Bhamo\n\nNo change could be greater or more sudden We toiled upwards in the\nblazing sun and in two hours we were deep in the thickest jungle in\nthe exuberant vegetation of a tropical forest We had left the valley of\nthe peaceful Shans and were in the forest inhabited by other protected\nbarbarians of Chinathe wild tribes of Kachins who even in Burma are\nslow to recognise the beneficent influences of British frontier\nadministration Nature serenely sleeps in the valley nature is\nthrobbing with life in the forest and the humming and buzzing of all\ninsect life was strange to our unaccustomed ears\n\nA wellcut path has been made through the forest and caravans of mules\nladen with bales of cotton were in the early stages of the long\noverland journey to Yunnan Their bells tinkled through the forest\nwhile the herd boy filled the air with the sweet tones of his bamboo\nflute breathing out his soul in music more beautiful than any bagpipes\nCotton is the chief article of import entering China by this highway\nFrom Talifu to the frontier a traveller could trace his way by the\nfluffs of cotton torn by the bushes from the mulepacks\n\nThe road through the forest reaches the highest points because it is at\nthe highest points that the Chinese forts are situated either on the\nroad or on some elevated clearing near it\n\nThe forts are stockades inclosed in wooden palisades and guarded by\n_chevaux de frise_ of sharpcut bamboo The barracks are a few native\nstrawthatched wooden huts Perhaps a score or two of men form the\ngarrison of each fort they are badly armed if armed at all There are\nno guns and no store supplies Water is trained into the stockades down\nopen conduits of split bamboo To anyone who has seen the Chinese\nsoldiers at home in Western China it is diverting to observe the\ncredence which is given to Chinese statements of the armed strength of\nWestern China How much longer are we to persist in regarding the\nChinese as they now are as a warlike power In numbers capacity for\nphysical endurance calm courage when well officered and powers\nunequalled by any other race of mankind of doing the greatest amount of\nlabour on the smallest allowance of food their potential strength is\nstupendous But they are not advancing they are stationary they look\nbackwards not forwards they live in the past Weapons with which their\nancestors subdued the greater part of Asia they are loath to believe\nare unfitted for conducting the warfare of today Should Japan bring\nChina to terms she can impose no terms that will not tend towards the\nadvancement of China Victories such as Japan has won over China might\naffect any other nation but China but they are trifling and\ninsignificant in their effect upon the gigantic mass of China Suppose\nChina has lost 20000 men in this war in one day there are 20000\nbirths in the Empire and I am perfectly sure that outside the\nimmediate neighbourhood of the seat of operations the Chinese as a\nnation apart from the officials are profoundly ignorant that there is\neven a war or as they would term it a rebellion in progress\nTrouble serious trouble will begin in China in the near future for\nthe time must be fast approaching when the effete and alien dynasty now\nreigning in Chinathe Manchu dynastyshall be overthrown and a\nChinese Emperor shall rule on the throne of China\n\nAt a native village called Schehleh there is a likinbarrier The yellow\nflag was drooping over the roadway in the hot sun The customs officer\nan amiable Chinese Shan invited me in to tea and brought his pukai for\nme to lie down upon Like thousands of his countrymen he had played for\nfortune in the Manila lottery Two old lottery tickets and the prize\nlist in Chinese were on one wall of his room on the other were a number\nof Chinese visiting cards to which I graciously permitted him to add\nmine\n\nSoldiers accompanied me from camp to camp Chinese soldiers from\ndistricts many hundreds of miles distant in China Some were armed some\nwere unarmed and there was equal confidence to be reposed in the one as\nin the other but all were civil and watched me with a care that was\nembarrassing\n\nAt the first camp beyond Schehleh the gateway was ornamented with\ntrophies of valour From two bare treetrunks baskets of heads were\nhanging putrefying in the heat They were the heads of Kachin dacoits\nAnd thus shall it be done with all taken in rebellion against the Son of\nHeaven whose mighty clemency alone permits the sun to shine on any\nkingdom beyond his borders Kachin villages are scattered through the\nforest among the hills You see their native houses long bamboo\nstructures raised on piles and thatched with grass with low eaves\nsloping nearly to the ground In sylvan glades sacred to the _nats_ you\npass wooden pillars erected by the roadside rudely cut and rudely\npainted with lines and squares and rough figures of knives and close\nbeside them conical grass structures with coloured weathercocks Split\nbamboos support narrow shelves whereon are placed the various\nfoodofferings with which is sought the goodwill of the evil spirits\n\nThe Kachin men we met were all armed with the formidable _dah_ or native\nsword whose widened blade they protect in a univalvular sheath of wood\nThey wore Shan jackets and dark knickerbockers their hair was gathered\nunder a turban They all carried the characteristic embroidered Kachin\nbag over the left shoulder\n\nThe Kachin women are as stunted as the Japanese and are disfigured with\nthe same disproportionate shortness of legs They wear Shan jackets and\npetticoats of darkblue their ornaments are chiefly cowries their legs\nare bare Unmarried they wear no headdress but have their hair cut in\na black mop with a deep fringe to the eyebrows If married their\nheaddress is the same as that of the Shan womena huge darkblue\nconical turban Morality among the Kachin maidens a missionary tells\nme is not as we understand the term believed to exist There is a\ntradition in the neighbourhood concerning a virtuous maiden but little\nreliance can be placed on such legendary tales Among the Kachins each\nclan is ruled by a Sawbwa whose office is hereditary not to the\neldest son but to the youngest or failing sons to the youngest\nsurviving brother Anderson All Kachins chew betelnut and nearly\nall smoke opiummen women and children Goitre is very prevalent among\nthem in some villages Major Couchman believes that as many as 25 per\ncent of the inhabitants are afflicted with the disease They have no\nwritten language but their spoken language has been romanised by the\nAmerican missionaries in Burma\n\nWe camped within five miles of the British border at the Chinese fortlet\nof Settee a palisaded camp whose gateway also was hung with heads of\ndacoits A Chinese Shan was in command a smart young officer with a\nBurmese wife He was active alert and intelligent and gave me the\nbest room in the series of sheds which formed the barracks I was made\nvery comfortable There were between forty and fifty soldiers stationed\nin the barracksharmless warriorswho were very attentive At\nnightfall the tattoo was beaten The gong sounded its notes died away\nin a distant murmur then brayed forth with a stentorian clangour that\nmight wake the dead At the same time a tattoo was beaten on the drum\nthen a gun was fired and the noise ceased to be repeated again during\nthe night at the change of guard All foes visible and invisible were\nin this way scared away from the fort\n\nHearing that I was a doctor the commandant asked me to see several of\nhis men who were on the sick list Among them was one poor young fellow\ndying in the next room to mine of remittent fever When I went to the\nbedside the patient was lying down deadly ill weak and emaciated but\ntwo of his companions took him by the arms and telling him to sit up\nwould have pulled him into what they considered a more respectful\nattitude In the morning I again went to see the poor fellow He was\nlying on his side undergoing treatment An opiumpipe was held to his\nlips by one comrade while another rolled the pellet of opium and placed\nit heated in the pipebowl so that he might inhale its fumes\n\nIn the morning the officer accompanied me to the gate of the stockade\nand bade me goodbye with many unintelligible expressions of good will\nHis eight best soldiers were told off to escort me to the frontier\ndistant only fifteen li It was a splendid walk through the jungle\nacross the mountains to the Hongmuho We passed the outlying stockade of\nthe Chinese and winding along the spur came full in view of the\nBritish camp across the valley halfway up the opposite slope By a\nvery steep path we descended through the forest to the frontier fort of\nthe Chinese and emerged upon the grassy slope that shelves below it to\nthe river\n\nThere are a few bamboo huts on the sward and here the Chinese guard\nleft me for armed guards are allowed no further I was led to the ford\nmy pony plunged into the swift stream and a moment or two later I was\non British soil and passing the Sepoy outpost where the guard to my\ngreat alarm for I feared being shot turned out and saluted me Then I\nclimbed up the steep hill to the British encampment where the English\nofficer commanding Captain R G Iremonger of the 3rd Burma Regiment\ngave me a kind reception and congratulated me upon my successful\njourney He telegraphed to headquarters the news of my arrival It was\nof no earthly interest to anybody that I an unknown wanderer should\npass through safely but it was of interest to know that anyone could\npass through so easily Reports had only recently reached the Government\nthat Western China was in a state of disaffection that a feeling\nstrongly antiforeign had arisen in Yunnan and that now of all times\nwould it be inexpedient to despatch a commission for the delimitation of\nthe boundary My quiet and uninterrupted journey was in direct conflict\nwith all such reports\n\nThe encampment of Nampoung is at an elevation of 1500 feet above the\nriver It is well exposed on all sides and has been condemned by\nmilitary experts But the law of fortifications which applies to any\nordinary frontier does not apply to the frontier of China where there\nis no danger whatsoever The palisade is irregularly made and is not\nsuperior of course to any round the Chinese stockades\n\nThe houses are built of bamboo are raised on piles and thatched with\ngrass A company of the 3rd Burma Regiment is permanently stationed here\nunder an English officer and consists of 100 men who are either Sikhs\nor Punjabis all of splendid stature and military bearing A picket of\nsix men under a noncommissioned native officer guards the ford and\npermits no armed Chinese to cross the border\n\nThere are numbers of transport mules and ponies In the creek there are\nplenty of fish the rod indeed is the chief amusement of the officers\nwho are exiled on duty to this lonely spot to pass three months in turn\nin almost uninterrupted solitude There is a telegraph line into Bhamo\nand it is at this point that connection will be made with the Imperial\nChinese Telegraphs\n\nAt the ford from fifty to one hundred loaded packanimals mostly\ncarrying cotton cross into China daily A toll of six annas is levied\nupon each packanimal the money so collected being distributed by the\nGovernment among those Kachin Sawbwas who have an hereditary right to\nlevy this tribute The money is collected by two Burmese officials and\nhanded daily to the officer commanding No duty is paid on entering\nBurma Chinese likinbarriers begin to harass the caravans at Schehleh\n\nBeautiful views of the surrounding hills all covered with lofty forest\ntrees tangled with magnificent creepers and festooned with orchids\nare obtained from the camp All the country round is extremely fertile\nyielding with but little labour three crops a year Cultivation of the\nsoil there is none Fire clears the jungle and the ashes manure the\nsoil the ground is then superficially scratched and rice is sown\nNothing more is done Every seed germinates the paddy ripens and\nwhere one basketful is sown five hundred basketfuls are gathered And\nthe field lies untouched till again covered with jungle Thus is the\nheathen rewarded fivehundredfold in accordance with the law of Nature\nwhich gives blessing to the labour of the husbandman inversely as he\ndeserves it\n\nIn the evening the officer walked down with me to the creek where I\nbathed in the shadow of the bank in a favourite pool for fishing As we\ncrossed the field on our return we met the two Burmese\ntributegatherers They had occasion to speak to the officer when\ninstead of standing upright like a stalwart and independent Chinaman\nthey squatted humbly on their heels and resting their elbows on their\nknees in an attitude of servility conversed with their superior How\ndifferent the Chinaman who confesses few people his superior and none\nof any race beyond the borders of China\n\nFrom Nampoung to Bhamo is an easy walk of thirtythree miles This is\nusually done in two stages the halting place being the military station\nof Myothit which is fourteen miles from Nampoung On leaving Nampoung\nan escort of a lancecorporal and two soldiers was detailed to accompany\nme They were Punjabis men of great stature and warlike aspect but\nthey were presumably out of training for they arrived at Myothit limp\nand haggard an hour or more after we did There is an admirable road\nthrough the jungle maintained in that excellent order characteristic of\nmilitary roads under British supervision My Chinese from time to time\nquestioned me as to the distance We had gone fifteen li when Laotseng\nasked me how much farther it was to Santien Myothit Three li I\nsaid We walked ten li further How far is it now he asked Only\nfive li further I replied gravely We went on another six li when\nagain he asked me Teacher Mo how many li to Santien Only eight\nmore li I said and he did not ask me again I was endeavouring to\ngive him information in the fashion that prevails in his own country\n\nAt Myothit we camped in the dak bungalow an unfurnished cottage kept\nfor the use of travellers The encampment is on the outskirts of a\nperfectly flat plain skirted with jungleclad hills and covered with\nelephant grass Through the plain the broad river Taiping flows on its\nmuddy way to the Irrawaddy One hundred sepoys are stationed here under\na native officer a Sirdar Jemadar or Subadar I am not certain\nwhich who called upon me and stood by me as I ate my tiffin and to\nmy great embarrassment saluted me in the most alarming way every time\nmy eye unexpectedly caught his I confess that I did not know the\ngentleman from Adam I mistook him for an ornamental headwaiter and\nas I regarded him as a superfluous nuisance I told him not to stand\nupon the order of his going but go I pointed to the steps and he went\nsidling off backwards as if from the presence of royalty Drawing his\nheels together he saluted me at the stairtop and again at the bottom\nmurmuring words which were more unintelligible to me even than Chinese\n\nDuring the night our exposed bungalow was assailed by a fearful storm of\nwind and rain and for a time I expected it to be bodily lifted off the\npiles and carried to the leeside of the settlement The roof leaked in\na thousand places rain was driven under the walls and everything I had\nwas soaked with warm water\n\nNext day we had a pleasant walk into Bhamo that important military\nstation on the left bank of the Irrawaddy We crossed the Taiping at\nMyothit by a bridge a temporary and very shaky structure which is\nevery year carried away when the river rises and every year renewed\nwhen the caravans take the road after the rains\n\nBhamo is 1520 miles by land from Chungking and it is an equal distance\nfurther from Chungking to Shanghai The entire distance I traversed in\nexactly one hundred days for I purposely waited till the hundredth day\nto complete it And it surely speaks well of the sense of responsibility\ninnate in the Chinese that during all this time I never had in my\nemploy a Chinese coolie who did not fulfil with something to spare all\nthat he undertook to do I paid off my men in Bhamo To Laotseng I gave\n400 cash too many and asked him for the change At once with much\nreadiness he ranged some cash on the table in the form of an abacus\nand setting down some hieroglyphics on a sheet of paper he worked out\na calculation by which he proved that I owed _him_ 400 cash and\ntherefore the accounts were now exactly balanced For my own expenses I\ngave him 1175 cash in Tengyueh and 400 more in Bhamo so that my entire\npersonal expenses between two points nine days distant from each other\nwere rather more than _3s_ My entire journey from Shanghai to Bhamo\ncost less than _L20_ sterling including my Chinese outfit Had I\ntravelled economically I estimate that the journey need not have cost\nme more than _L14_ Had I carried more silver with me I would still\nfurther have reduced the total cost of my tour The gold I bought in\nYunnan with my surplus silver I sold in Burma for 20 per cent profit\nthe rupees which I purchased in Tengyueh for _11d_ were worth _13d_ in\nBhamo For some curios which I purchased in the interior for _L2 5s_ I\nwas offered when I reached civilisation _L14_ Without doubt the journey\nacross China is the cheapest that can be done in all the world\n\nI was sorry to say goodbye to my men who had served me so faithfully\nAnd I cannot speak more highly of the pleasure of my journey than to\ndeclare that I felt greater regret when it was finished than I ever felt\non leaving any other country The men all through had behaved admirably\nand it is only fair to add that mine was the common experience of\ntravellers in far Western China Thus a very great traveller in China\nand Thibet W W Rockhill writing in the _Century_ April 1894 on\nthe discomforts of his recent journey says\n\nBut never a word of complaint from either the Thibetans or my Chinese\nThey were always alert always goodtempered always attentive to me\nand anxious to contribute to my comfort in every way in their power And\nso I have ever found these peoples with whom I am glad to say after\ntravelling over 20000 miles in their countries I have never exchanged\na rough word and among whom I think I have left not one enemy and not a\nfew friends\n\nTwo days after their arrival in Bhamo my three men started on their\nreturn journey to Talifu They were laden with medicines stores\nnewspapers and letters for the mission in Tali which for months had\nbeen accumulating in the premises of the American Mission in Bhamo the\nmissionary in charge amid the multifarious avocations pertaining to his\npost having found no time to forward them to their destination to his\nlonely Christian brother in the far interior And had I not arrived\nwhen I did they could not have been sent till after the rains A coolie\nwill carry eighty pounds weight from Bhamo to Tali for _12s_ and I\nneed hardly point out that a very small transaction in teak would cover\nthe cost of many coolies Besides any expenditure incurred would have\nbeen reimbursed by the Inland Mission My three men were pursued by\ncruel fate on their return they all were taken ill at Pupiao Poor\nBones and the pockmarked coolie died and Laotseng lay ill in the\nhotel there for weeks and when he recovered sufficiently to go on to\nTali he had to go without the three loads which the landlord of the\ninn detained pending the payment of his board and lodging and the\nburial expenses of his two companions\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXIII\n\nBHAMO MANDALAY RANGOON AND CALCUTTA\n\n\nThe finest residence in Bhamo is of course the American mission\nAmerica nobly supports her selfsacrificing and devoted sons who go\nforth to arrest the awful ruin of souls among the innumerable millions\nof Asia who are perishing without hope having sinned without law\nThe missionary in charge told me that he labours with a humble heart to\nbring a knowledge of the Saving Truth to the perishing heathen among the\nKachins His appointment is one which even a worldlyminded man might\ncovet I will give an instance of his methods This devoted evangelist\ntold me that a poor woman a Kachin Christian in whose welfare he felt\ndeep personal interest was he greatly feared dying from\nbloodpoisoning at a small Christian village one hours ride up the\nriver from Bhamo and he had little doubt that some surgical\ninterference in her case would save her life I at once offered to go\nand see her I had received great kindness from many American\nmissionaries in China and it would give me great pleasure I said if I\ncould be of any service\n\nThe missionary professed to be grateful for my offer but instead of\narranging to go that afternoon named seven oclock the following\nmorning as the hour when he would call for me to take me to the village\nAt the time appointed I was ready I waited but no missionary came\nThere was a slight drizzle sufficient to prevent his going to the sick\nwoman but not sufficient to deter him from going to market to the\nIrrawaddy steamer where I accidentally met him So far from being\nabashed when he saw me he took the occasion to tell me what he will I\nknow pardon me for thinking an inexcusable untruth He had written he\nsaid to the poor woman telling her dying as he believed her to be to\ncome down to Bhamo by boat to see me\n\nIn Bhamo I stayed in the comfortable house of the Deputy Commissioner\nand was treated with the most pleasant hospitality To my regret the\nDeputy Commissioner was down the river and I did not see him He is\nregarded as one of the ablest men in the service His rise has been\nrapid and he was lately invested with the CIEthere seems indeed\nto be no position in Burma that he might not aspire to In his absence\nhis office was being administered by the Assistant Commissioner a\ncourteous young Englishman who gave me my first experience of the Civil\nService I could not but envy the position of this young fellow and\nmarvel at the success which attends our method of administering the\nIndian Empire Here was a young man of twentyfour acting as governor\nwith large powers over a tract of country of hundreds of square milesa\nnew country requiring for its proper administration a knowledge of law\nof finance of trade experience of men and ability to deal with the\nconflicting interests of several native races Superior to all other\nauthorities civil and military in his district he was considered fit\nto fill this postand success showed his fitnessbecause a year or two\nbefore he had been one of forty crammed candidates out of 200 who had\ntaken the highest places in a series of examinations in Latin English\nmathematics c With the most limited experience of human life he had\nobtained his position in exactly the same way that a Chinese Mandarin\ndoes hisby competitive examination in subjects which even less than\nin the case of the Chinese had little bearing upon his future work and\nnow like a Chinese Mandarin there are few things he isnt\n\nOn the face of it no system appears more preposterous in its results no\nsystem was ever more successful The Assistant Commissioner early learns\nselfreliance decision and ability to wield authority and he can\nalways look forward to the time when he may become Chief Commissioner\n\nThere is a wonderful mixture of types in Bhamo Nowhere in the world\nnot even in Macao is there a greater intermingling of races Here live\nin cheerful promiscuity Britishers and Chinese Shans and Kachins Sikhs\nand Madrasis Punjabis Arabs German Jews and French adventurers\nAmerican missionaries and Japanese ladies\n\nThere are many ruined pagodas and some wooden temples which however do\nnot display the higher features of Burmese architecture There is a\nclub of course a polo and football ground and a cricket ground\nInside the fort among the barracks there is a building which has a\ndouble debt to pay being a theatre at one end and a church at the\nother the same athletic gentleman being the chief performer at both\nplaces But at its best Bhamo is a forlorn miserable and wretched\nstation where all men seem to regard it as their first duty to the\nstranger to apologise to him for being there\n\nThe distinguished Chinese scholar and traveller E Colborne Baber who\nwrote the classic book of travel in Western China was formerly British\nResident in Bhamo He spoke Chinese unusually well and was naturally\nproud of his accomplishment Now the ordinary Chinaman has this feature\nin common with many of the European races that if he thinks you cannot\nspeak his language he _will_ not understand you even if you speak to\nhim with perfect correctness of idiom and tone And Baber had an\nexperience of this which deeply hurt his pride Walking one day in the\nneighbourhood of Bhamo he met two Chinesestrangersand began\nspeaking to them in his best Mandarin They heard him with unmoved\nstolidity and when he had finished one turned to his companion and\nsaid as if struck with his discovery the language of these foreign\nbarbarians sounds not unlike our own\n\nIn Bhamo I had the pleasure of meeting the three members of the Boundary\nCommission who represented us in some preliminary delimitation questions\nwith the Chinese Government A better choice could not have been made\nM Martini a Frenchman has been twenty years in Upper Burma and is\nour DSP District Superintendent of Police Mr Warry the Chinese\nadviser to the Burmese Government is one of the ablest men who ever\ngraduated from the Consular Staff in China while Captain H R Davies\nof the Staff Corps who is on special duty in the Intelligence\nDepartment is not only an exceptionally able officer but is the most\naccomplished linguist of Upper Burma These were the three\nrepresentatives\n\nI sold my pony in Bhamo I was exceedingly sorry to part with it for it\nhad come with me 800 miles in thirty days over an unusually difficult\nroad at great variations of altitude and amid many changes of climate\nAnd it was always in good spirit brave and hardy carrying me as surely\nthe last twenty miles as it had the first twenty Yet when I came to\nsell it I was astonished to learn how many were its defects Its\nheight which was 123 in Nampoung had shrunk three days later to 113\nin Bhamo This one subaltern told me who came to look at the pony with\nthe view he said of making me an offer Another officer proved to me\nthat the off foreleg was gone hopelessly a third confirmed this\ndiagnosis of his friend and in a clinical lecture demonstrated that the\npoor beast was spavined and that its near hind frog was rotten as all\nChinese ponies are he added One of the mounted constabulary a smart\nofficer fortunately discovered in time that the pony was a roarer\nwhile the Hungarian Israelite who lends help on notes of hand\npostobits personal applications and other insecurities and is on\nterms of friendly intimacy with most of the garrison when about to make\nan offer found to his great regret that the ponys hind legs were\neven more defective than the fore The end of it was that I had to sell\nthe ponyfor what it cost me I am indebted to the Reverend Mr\nRoberts of the American Baptist Mission for helping me to sell my\npony Mr Roberts has a pious gift for buying ponies and selling\nthemat a profit He offered me 40 rupees for my pony I mentioned this\noffer at the Bhamo Club when a civilian present at once offered me 50\nrupees for the pony he did not know the pony he explained buthe\nknew Roberts\n\nIn a steamer of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company I came down the river\nfrom Bhamo to Mandalay When I left the Commissioners bungalow the\nentire staff of the establishment and of some neighbouring bungalows\nassembled to do me honour creeping up to me and with deep humility\ncarrying each an article of my possessions from my room down to the\nporch There were the _dhobie_ and _bearer_ the waterman with his\ngoatskin waterbag the washerman who washed my blue Chinese garments as\nwhite as his own the _syce_ who did not collect grass the cook who\nsent me ten bad eggs in three days and the Christian Madrasi the\nlaziest rascal in Bhamo who early confessed to me his change of faith\nand the transformation it had effected in the future prospects of his\nsoul There was the Burmese watchman and the Englishspeaking Burmese\nclerk and the coolie who went to the bazaar for me and many others\nThey lined the stairs as I came out and placed their hands reverently\nto their foreheads when I passed by It was pleasant to see such\ndisinterested evidence of their good will and my only regret was that I\ncould not reward them according to their deserts But to the Chinese\ncoolie who was grinning to see my paltry outfit carried by so many\nhands and who gathered together all I possessed and swung off with it\ndown past the temples to the steamer landing in the native city I gave\na days pay and cheerfullythough he then asked for more\n\nIn Mandalay I was taken to the club and passed many hours there reading\nthe home papers and wandering through its gilded halls Few clubs in the\nworld have such a sumptuous setting as this for it is installed in the\nthroneroom and chambers and receptionhalls of the palace of King\nTheebaw\n\nIn the very centre of the building is a sevenstoreyed spire\nemblematic of royalty and religion which the Burmese look upon as the\nexact centre of creation The receptionhall at the foot of the\nthrone is now the English chapel the readingroom with its gilded dais\nwhere the Queen sat on her throne with its lofty roof its pillars of\nteak and walls all ablaze with gilding was the throneroom of\nTheebaws chief Queen\n\nMandalay is largely Chinese and on the outskirts of the city there is a\nhandsome temple which bears the charming inscription so characteristic\nof the Chinese enlightenment finds its way even among the outer\nbarbarians\n\nThere is a military hospital with two nursing sisters highly trained\nladies from Barts Australians are now so widely distributed over the\nworld that it did not surprise me to find that one of the two sisters\ncomes from Melbourne\n\nFrom Mandalay I went by train to Rangoon where I lived in a pretty\nvilla among noble trees on the lower slope of the hill which is crowned\nwith the famous golden pagoda the Shwaydagon the most sacred temple\nof IndoChina We looked out upon the park and the royal lake I early\nwent to the Intelligence Department and saw Major Couchman In his\noffice I met the chief Chinese interpreter a Chinaman with a rare\ngenius for languages He is a native of Fuhkien province and of\ncourse speaks the Fuhkien dialect he knows also Cantonese and\nMandarin In addition he possesses French Hindustani Burmese Shan\nand Sanscrit and in an admirable translation which he has made of a\nChinese novel into English he frequently quotes Latin Fit assistant he\nwould make to Max Mueller his services command a high salary\n\nThe Chinese in Rangoon are a predominating force in the prosperity of\nthe city They have deeply impressed their potentiality upon the\ncommunity It seems almost certain says a great authority perhaps\n_the_ greatest authority on BurmaJ G Scott Shway Yoethat in no\nvery long time Burma or at any rate the large trading towns of Burma\nwill be for all practical purposes absorbed by the Chinese traders just\nas Singapore and Penang are virtually Chinese towns Unless some\nmarvellous upheaval of energy takes place in the Burmese character the\nplodding unwearying Chinaman is almost certainly destined to overrun\nthe country to the exclusion of the native race\n\nThe artisans of Rangoon are largely Chinese and the carpenters\nexclusively so The Chinese marry Burmese women and treating their\nwives with the consideration which the Chinaman invariably extends to\nhis foreign wife in a foreign country they are desired as husbands even\nabove the Burmans Next to the British the only indispensable element\nin the community is now the Chinese\n\nThe best known figure in Burma is the Reverend John Ebenezer Marks\nDD Principal of the St Johns College of the SPG Dr Marks has\nbeen thirtyfive years in Burma is still hale and hearty brimful of\nreminiscences and is one of the most amusing companions in the world I\nthink it was he who converted King Theebaw to Christianity His school\nis a curiosity It is an anthropological institute with perhaps the\nfinest collection of human crossbreeds in existence It is away out\nbeyond the gaol in large wooden buildings set in extensive playgrounds\nHere he has 550 students all but four of whom are Asiatics of fifteen\ndifferent nationalitiesChinese Karens Kachins Shans and a varied\nassortment of Hindoos and Malays both pure and blended with the native\nBurmese All the different races represented in Burma have intermarried\nwith the native Burmese and the resulting halfbreeds have crossed\nwith other halfbreeds Most of the better class Eurasian boys\nEuropeanAsian are educated here some being supported by their\nfathers some not The former Dr Marks ingeniously calls after their\nmothers the latter who have been neglected retain the names when\nthey are known of their fathers It is amusing to meet among the\nlatter the names of so many brave Englishmen who in the earlier days\nwhen morals had not attained the strictness that now characterises them\ngallantly served their country in Burma\n\nNo woman in the world is more catholic in her tastes than the Burmese\nShe bestows her loves as variously as the Japanese She marries with\nequal readiness Protestant or Catholic Turk Infidel or Jew She\nclings cheerfully to whichever will support her but above all she\ndesires the Chinaman No one treats her so well as the Chinaman If she\nis capable of experiencing the emotion of love for any being outside her\nown race she feels it for the Chinaman who is of a cognate race to her\nown is hardworking frugal and industrious permits her to live in\nidleness and delights her with presents loving her children with that\naffection which the Chinaman has ever been known to bestow upon his\noffspring The ChinoBurmese is not quite the equal of his father but\nhe is markedly superior to the Burmese The best halfcaste in the East\nis of course the Eurasian of British parentage Englishmen going to\nBurma are as a rule picked men physically powerful courageous\nenergetic and enterprising for it is the possession of these qualities\nwhich has sent them to the East either for business or in the service\nof their country And their Burmese companionsof course I speak of a\ncondition of things which is gradually ceasing to existare all picked\nwomen selected for the comeliness of their persons and the sweetness of\ntheir manners\n\nAfter a stay of two or three weeks in Rangoon I went round by the\nBritish India steamer to Calcutta Ill fortune awaited me here The\nnight after my arrival I was laid down with remittent fever and a few\ndays later I nearly died The reader will I am sure pardon me for\nobtruding this purely personal matter But as I opened this book with a\ntestimony of gratitude to the distinguished surgeon who cut a spear\npoint from my body where nine months before it had been thrust by a\nsavage in New Guinea so should I be sorry to close this narrative\nwithout recording a word of thanks to those who befriended me in\nCalcutta\n\nI was a stranger knowing only two men in all Calcutta but they were\nfriends in need who looked after me during my illness with the greatest\nkindness A leading doctor of Calcutta attended me and treated me with\nunremitting attention and great skill To Mr John Bathgate and Mr\nMaxwell Prophit and to Dr Arnold Caddy I owe a lasting debt of\ngratitude And what shall I say of that kind nursedark of complexion\nbut most fair to look uponwhose presence in the sick room almost\nconsoled me for being ill Bless her dear heart Even hydrochlorate of\nquinine tasted sweet from her fingers\n\n\nTHE END\n\nIllustration CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING\n\n\n\n\nINDEX\n\n\n  Adridge Dr of Ichang 10\n\n  dAmade Capt in Yunnan 150\n\n  Ancestral worship 67\n\n  Anderson Dr J cited 274 277\n\n  Anpien 79\n\n  Antiforeign riots 9 54 268\n\n  Arsenal in Yunnan 175\n\n  Augustine mission 6\n\n\n  Baber E C cited 51 90 239 267\n    in Yunnan 149\n    in Bhamo 285\n    on distances 187\n\n  Ball Dyer cited 113 224\n\n  Baller Rev F W cited 113\n\n  Banks and banking 95 96 163 164\n\n  Barrow Sir John cited 101 110 191\n\n  Beraud Pere of Suifu 63 65\n\n  Bhamo Singai 279287\n\n  Bible Christian mission in Chaotong 99\n    in Tongchuan 121\n\n  Blakiston Capt cited 173\n\n  Blodget Rev Dr cited 123\n\n  Boell M of _Le Temps_ in Yunnan 150\n\n  Bonvalot G in Yunnan 149\n\n  Bridges some notable 26 83 85 118 186 233 240 242\n\n  Broomhall B cited 66 67\n\n  Browne Col Horace 246 267 268\n\n  Bugs in China and Spain 55 56\n\n  Burdon Bishop cited 123\n\n\n  Cameron Dr missionary traveller 213\n\n  Cantonese 207\n    in Australia 222224\n\n  Caravans of cotton 226 271\n\n  Carruthers A G H assistant commissioner of customs Chungking 51\n\n  Cash currency of China 161 162\n\n  Chairen the policeman of China 77 190\n\n  Changchen Nien BrigadierGeneral Tengyueh 181 246\n\n  Chang Chi Tung the viceroy 3 4\n\n  Changshowhsien 33\n\n  Chang Yan Miun the giant of Yunnan 184 185\n\n  Chaochow 200\n\n  Chaotong the city of 97116\n    its converts 178\n\n  Chehki 137\n\n  Chen merchant prince 29 30\n\n  Chennanchow 192\n\n  Chentu city 62\n    river 62\n\n  Chiang telegraph clerk Yunnan 168\n\n  China Inland Mission in Hankow 6\n    in Wanhsien 2729\n    in Chungking 49\n    in Suifu 65 73 75\n    in Yunnan 177\n    in Tali 213216\n    results in Yunnan province 178\n    in China generally 180\n    its teaching 6571\n\n  Chinese in Australia 222224\n    in Burma 288290\n\n  Chinese avarice 79\n    benevolence 29\n    beauty of women 13\n    cards visiting 181 182\n    characters reverence for 170\n    courtesy 255\n    desire to have children 197 198\n    etiquette 230\n    friendliness 140\n    good nature 117\n    gratitude 27 28\n    inaccuracy 99\n    indifference to pain 104\n      to sound 74 169\n    irreverence 195\n    justification by works 169\n    kindness to children 113 290\n    laughter 195\n    love at first sight 153155\n    politeness 196 197 201 255\n    respect for old age 117 198\n    thoughtfulness 189\n    true felicity 180\n    wonderful memory 167 168\n\n  Chipatzu 22\n\n  Chueh telegraph operator and interpreter 248\n\n  Chungking city of 3439\n\n  Chuhsingfu 187\n\n  Clarke Mr G W missionary traveller 213\n\n  Clarke Marcus cited 210\n\n  Coal on the Yangtse 32\n\n  Coffins in China 92 137 265\n\n  Colquhoun A R in Yunnan 150\n\n  Conversion instances of rapid 179\n\n  Converts in China 5\n    Wanhsien 28\n    Chungking 49\n    Suifu 65\n    Chaotong 99\n    Tongchuan 121\n    Yunnan City 177\n    Yunnan Province 178 179\n    Talifu 214\n\n  Cooke G W cited 46 176\n\n  Coolies enormous loads 90 91\n\n  Couchman Major cited 274\n    in Rangoon 288\n\n  Crockery 118 119\n\n  Customs China Inland likinbarriers 21 48 97 118 242 272 277\n\n  Customs Imperial Maritime 13 25 3538\n\n\n  Davenport Dr Cecil medical missionary Chungking 49\n\n  Davies Capt H R Bhamo 285\n\n  Davis Sir J F cited 57\n\n  Dedeken Pere of Kuldja 150\n\n  De Gorostarza Pere Provicaire in Yunnan 172\n\n  De Guignes cited 140\n\n  Distances in China 141 278\n\n  Doctors in China 107110 muledoctor 145\n\n  Doolittle Rev Justus cited 69 130 170\n\n  Doudart de la Gree in Yunnan 149\n\n  Douglas R K cited 127\n\n  Dudgeon Dr J cited 112 130\n\n  Du Halde cited 90 108 176\n\n  Dymond Rev Frank missionary Chaotong 98 99\n\n\n  Eclipse of the Sun 125 126\n\n  Edkins Rev Dr J cited 130\n\n  Eitel Rev Dr E J cited 129\n\n  Excoffier Pere of Yunnan 146\n\n\n  Famine in Chaotong 99\n    in Tongchuan 127\n    on the way to Yunnan 137144\n\n  Fanyientsen 82\n\n  Farrar Ven Archdeacon cited 191\n\n  Fenghsiang Gorge 21 30\n\n  Fengshuiling 240\n\n  Fengtuhsien 33\n\n  Fenouil Monseigneur of Yunnan 171 172\n\n  Fraser Consul E H Chungking 45\n\n  Fuchou 33\n\n  _Fungshui_ 157 175\n\n  Fungyentung 205\n\n  Futokuan fort of 52\n\n\n  Ganai Shan town 254256\n\n  Gates of a Chinese city 174\n\n  Geary H Grattan cited 43\n\n  Giles H A cited 129\n\n  Gill Mr Hope missionary Wanhsien 27\n\n  Gill Capt W cited 17 90\n\n  Girls in China 13 14 139 140\n    bought 155\n    sold 100 101\n    price of 100\n\n  Goitre 101 145 155 185\n    its prevalence 227 228\n\n  Gold on the Yangtse 23\n    in Yunnan 158160\n\n  Graham Mr missionary Yunnan 177 219\n\n  Grosvenor Mission in Yunnan 149\n\n  Guinness Miss G cited 213\n\n\n  Haas M 4244\n\n  Hankow the city of 38\n\n  Hanyang 3\n\n  Heads of criminals 192\n    of dacoits 273 274\n\n  Hirth Dr F Commissioner of Customs 40\n\n  Hobson H E cited 31\n\n  Hokiangpu 222\n\n  Hongmuho 270 275277\n\n  Hosie A M cited 17\n    in Yunnan 149\n\n  Hsiakwan 200 219 221\n\n  Hsintan rapids 15\n\n  Huanglienpu 226\n    goitre at 228\n\n  Huc Abbe cited 176\n\n\n  Iangkai 144\n\n  Ichang 9\n\n  Infanticide in China 129 130\n    in Chaotong 101\n    in Tongchuan 129\n\n  Inquirers at Wanhsien 28\n    Yunnan 177\n    Tali 215\n\n  Iremonger Capt R G Nampoung 275\n\n\n  Jensen Mr C in Yunnan 147\n    experiences in China 156 157\n    on distances 187\n    to construct line to Burma 238\n\n  Jesuit Missionaries in China 123 173 176\n\n  John Rev Dr Griffith cited 130\n\n\n  Kachins protected barbarians 254 259 270 273 274\n\n  Kanhliang Shan chief 245\n\n  Kaw Hong Beng Private Secretary to Viceroy 4 5\n\n  Kiangti 117\n\n  Kongshan 141\n\n  Kueichow on the Yangtse 18\n\n  Kuhtsing its converts 178\n\n  Kung Chaoyuan Minister to Great Britain 73\n\n  Kungtanho 33\n\n  Kweichoufu 21\n\n\n  Lacouperie Terrien de cited 257\n\n  Lanchihsien 60\n\n  Laokai 148 159\n\n  Laowatan river 79 town 85\n\n  Lay G T cited 13 45\n\n  Leitoupo 139\n\n  Lenz F G in Yunnan 150 151\n\n  Li Han Chang in Yunnan 149\n\n  Li Hung Chang 72 149\n    on opium 46 190\n\n  _Ling chi_ 69 231 232\n\n  Li Pi Chang Telegraph Manager Yunnan 151153 181 184\n\n  LiSiehtai of Tengyueh 246\n\n  Little A J cited 13 122\n    in Chungking 51\n\n  Little river 40 44 52\n\n  Liu Colonel of Chinese Boundary Commission 244 245 255\n\n  Liu the Viceroy 72\n\n  Lockhart Dr W cited 28 130\n\n  LohTaJen Chentai at Ichang 9\n\n  London Missionary Society Hankow 6\n    Chungking 49\n\n  Lorain Pere Procureur in Chungking 50\n\n  Luchow 60\n\n  Lufenghsien 186\n\n  Luho 187\n\n\n  MacCarthy Justin cited 210\n\n  MacGowan Rev Dr D J cited 130\n\n  Maire Pere of Tongchuan 133\n\n  Mander S S cited 47 191\n\n  Manyuen Manwyne 264269\n\n  Marco Polo cited 238\n    in Yunnan 149\n\n  Margary A R cited 266\n    in Yunnan 149 246\n    his murder 264269\n\n  Marks Rev Dr J E 289 290\n\n  Martin Rev Dr W A P cited 67 170\n\n  Martini M DSP in Bhamo 285\n\n  Mason Rev G L cited 28\n\n  Mateer Rev C W cited 28 140\n\n  Meadows T T cited 113 154\n\n  Medhurst Rev W H cited 87 wrongly written Meadows 197\n\n  Medhurst Sir W H cited 5 45 108\n\n  Medicines in China 83 107110\n\n  Mekong river 221 233 234\n\n  Mencius cited 198\n\n  Methodist Episcopalian Mission 40 54\n\n  Michie A cited 124\n\n  Missionaries success in China 5\n    numbers in Hankow 6\n\n  Missions Etrangeres de Paris 6 64 65 105 122 146 171\n\n  Mi Tsang Gorge 17\n\n  Mohammedans and opium 112\n    in Chaotong 113 114\n    near Tongchuan 128\n    in Tali 216\n    insurrection 145 185 187 203\n    superiority 216\n    the milkman 217\n\n  Momien Tengyueh the city of 243249\n\n  Money changing 95\n    remittance of 95\n\n  Morgan C L cited 66 70\n\n  Morphia imported 48 49\n\n  Moule Bishop cited 130\n\n  Moutot Pere Provicaire in Suifu 63 65\n\n  Muirhead Rev W cited 123\n\n  Mungtze 148150 159\n\n  Myothit Santien 278 279\n\n\n  Nampoung encampment 270 275278\n\n  Nantien fort of 250 251\n\n\n  Opium imports and exports of 4648\n    in Hankow 3\n    in Chungking 45\n    in Suifu 72 73\n    demoralising influence of 41\n     refuge Chungking 41\n     ports 33\n    poisoning by 111 112 212\n    my chairbearers and 94\n    my coolie and 219\n    appeal for suppression 190 191\n\n  dOrleans Prince Henri cited 148\n    in Yunnan 149\n\n\n  Parricide in China 69\n\n  Pearson Prof C H cited 186 224\n\n  _Peking Gazette_ cited 53 169 231\n\n  Pen telegraph manager Tengyueh 244\n\n  Peng Yuelin high commissioner cited 192\n\n  PidginEnglish 3 9 18\n\n  Piercy Rev G cited 191\n\n  Pingshanpa 13\n\n  Pits for the dead 133\n\n  Plague bubonic in Yunnan 213\n\n  Pollard Rev S missionary Tongchuan 121\n\n  Poppy 37 57 78 84 118 142\n    surreptitiously grown 46\n\n  Postoffices 95 96\n\n  Prisons in China 209211\n\n  Punishments in China 103 104 136 239\n\n  Pupeng 193\n\n  Pupiao 236\n    my men die at 281\n\n\n  Reade Charles cited 209\n\n  Reed Miss M cited 191\n\n  Reid Rev G cited 41 192\n\n  Rice Christians 6\n\n  Roberts Rev Mr missionary Bhamo 286\n\n  Rockhill W W cited 280 281\n\n\n  St Thomas visit to Suifu 65\n\n  Salween river 237240\n\n  Santa Shan town 259263\n\n  Schehleh 272 277\n\n  Scott J G cited 287 289\n\n  Sengkiping 84\n\n  Settee fort of 274 275\n\n  Shachiaokai 192\n\n  Shangkwan 204\n\n  Shans 240 252 254 256269\n\n  Shihpaochai 32\n\n  Shuichai 234\n\n  Shweli river 242\n\n  Silver in Yunnan 161 163\n    in Tengyueh 249\n\n  Singai Bhamo 218\n\n  Sladen Major 267\n\n  Small feet 14 101 153\n\n  Smallpox 212 213\n\n  Smith Rev A H cited 41 269\n\n  Smith Rev John missionary Talifu 202 209 214 219\n\n  Smith Mr Stanley P his rapid conversion of a Chinaman 279\n\n  Soldiers their weapons 234 241 249\n    fierceness of aspect 263\n    courage 271\n\n  Squeezing in China 151 152\n\n  Stead W T cited 152\n\n  Suicide by opium 111\n    land of 111 112\n\n  Suifu the city of 6275\n\n  Sutherland Rev Dr A cited 123 173\n\n  Swinburne A C cited 14\n\n  Szechuen country of the clouds 82\n    population 186\n    contrasted with Yunnan 8588\n    Catholic stronghold 64\n\n\n  Taipingkai Shan town 263\n\n  Taipingpu 226\n\n  Taiping river 246 250 252 258 278 279\n\n  Takwanhsien 92 94 96\n\n  Takwanleo 92\n\n  Talichao 234\n\n  Talifu the city of 202219\n    its converts 178\n\n  Tanto 82\n\n  Taoshakwan 86\n\n  Taouen 116\n\n  Tawantzu 92\n\n  Taylor Rev Dr J Hudson cited 46 67 68 70 179\n    on opium 46\n    on ancestral worship 67\n    Chinese in lake of fire 67 68\n\n  Tchihlipu 86\n\n  Telegraph in Yunnan 147\n    in Tali 208\n    in Yungchang 234\n    in Tengyueh 243248\n    system of telegraphing Chinese characters 166168\n    telegraphic transfers 95 159\n\n  Tengyueh Momien the city of 243249\n\n  Term question 122 123\n\n  Theatre in Tengyueh 246 247\n\n  Tomme M in Yunnan 150\n\n  Tongchuan the city of 120134\n    its converts 178\n\n  Tonquin 148 149\n\n  Tragedy of the Tali valley 220 221\n\n  Tremberth Rev Mr missionary Chaotong 101\n\n  Tsen Yueying the cruel Viceroy 267\n\n  Tunglohsia 35\n\n  Turner Rev F Storrs cited 46\n\n  Tu Wen Hsiu the Mohammedan Sultan 203\n\n\n  Ullathorne Bishop cited 210\n\n\n  Vial Pere of Yunnan 150\n\n  Voltaire cited 173\n\n  Von Richthofen cited 90\n\n\n  Wanhsien the city of 2431\n\n  Warren Consul Pelham of Hankow 8\n\n  Warry Mr Chinese adviser to the Burmese Government 229 261 285\n\n  Wherry Rev J cited 123\n\n  Widows virtuous 52 53 78\n\n  Williams Rev Dr S Wells cited 47 110 126 197 267\n\n  Williamson Rev Dr A W cited 70 223\n\n  Wong banker in Yunnan 163166\n\n  Wongwenshao the Viceroy 180 181\n\n  Woodin Rev S F cited 66 179\n\n  Woolston Miss S H cited 14\n\n  Wuchang 3\n\n  Wuntho Sawbwa 245 253 254\n\n  Wushan Gorge 20\n\n  Wushanhsien 20\n\n\n  Yangki river 221\n\n  _Yang kweitze_ 18 25 228 229\n\n  Yanglin 145\n\n  Yangpi 224\n\n  Yang Yuko Imperialist general 203 204\n\n  Yeh of the Chinese Boundary Commission 224\n\n  Yehtan rapid 19\n\n  Yenwanshan 193\n\n  Yingwukwan 193\n\n  Yuenchuan 60\n\n  Yungchang the city of 234 235\n\n  Yunnan the city of 147183\n    its converts 177\n    the province of 8588\n    its converts 178\n\n  Yunnanhsien 196\n\n  Yunnan Yeh 193\n\nIllustration ROUGH SKETCHMAP OF CHINA AND BURMA SHOWING AUTHORS\nROUTE FROM SHANGHAI TO RANGOON\n\n                                   \n\n    \n     Typographical errors corrected in text                    \n                                                                \n     Page vii Hankow replaced with Ichang in chapter title     \n     Page  ix Tengyueh replaced with Tengyueh                 \n     Page   8 My Chinese Passport replaced with The         \n                Authors Chinese Passport                      \n     Page   9 Kweichou replaced with Kweichow                  \n     Page  22 Kueichou replaced with Kweichou                  \n     Page  29 midday replaced with midday mission replaced   \n               with missionary                                  \n     Page  30 Kueichou replaced with Kweichou                  \n     Page  32 hillsides replaced with hillsides               \n     Page  33 towline replaced with towline                   \n     Page  34 Tungtohsia replaced with Tunglohsia          \n     Page  44 Chungking replaced with Chungking               \n     Page  47 Fuhkien replaced with Fuhkien                   \n     Page  57 rape seed replaced with rapeseed                \n     Page  58 mainroad replaced with main road                 \n     Page  61 Comma after Chinese who removed              \n     Page  62 towrope replaced with towrope                   \n     Page  63 Talifu replaced with Talifu                     \n     Page  64 trop materialistes italicised                    \n     Page  69 lingchi replaced with Ling chi                  \n     Page  76 Semicolon following Chaotong replaced with      \n               comma                                            \n     Page  77 Takwanhsien replaced with Takwanhsien twice  \n     Page  78 Comma after yellow rapeseed removed          \n               halfpenny replaced with halfpenny               \n     Page  91 Chentu replaced with Chentu                     \n     Page  96 ill paved replaced with illpaved                \n     Page  97 Semicolon following Chaotong replaced with      \n               comma                                            \n     Page 105 Etrangeres replaced with Etrangeres              \n     Page 111 trival replaced with trivial                     \n     Page 118 mainroad replaced with main road                \n     Page 125 Semicolon after Tongchuan replaced with comma   \n     Page 139 Comma after other heathen country replaced     \n               with full stop                                   \n     Page 142 Kongshan replaced with Kongshan                 \n     Page 149 Chungking corrected to Chungking                \n     Page 150 Yesutang replaced with Yesutang                 \n     Page 154 Double quotes inside double quotes replaced with \n               single quotes single quotes used for the last   \n               reported speech in the story                    \n     Page 155 Single quote after pretty safe added          \n               thickneck replaced with thickneck               \n     Page 156 Momein replaced with Momien                      \n     Page 161 uncivilized and civilization replaced with       \n               uncivilised and civilisation                     \n     Page 162 Mexican Dollar replaced with Mexican dollar      \n     Page 164 Chungking replaced with Chungking               \n     Page 172 Muntze replaced with Mungtze                     \n     Page 184 Tongchuan replaced with Tongchuan               \n     Page 186 Taiping replaced with Taiping                   \n     Page 190 Full stop added after in rags and barefoot     \n     Page 192 Tali replaced with Talifu                        \n     Page 193 aaccord replaced with daccord                  \n     Page 197 Question mark after that of a doctor       \n               replaced with full stop                          \n     Page 199 midday replaced with midday                     \n     Page 200 Yunnen replaced with Yunnan                      \n     Page 204 Hsiakwan replaced with Hsiakwan twice          \n     Page 206 Commas added after we replied and you to go  \n               on                                             \n     Page 208 Mahommedan replaced with Mohammedan              \n     Page 219 Yungchang replaced with Yungchang               \n     Page 220 Talifu replaced with Talifu                     \n     Page 230 splended replaced with splendid                  \n     Page 233 Full stop removed after Rivers tea house        \n               replaced with teahouse                           \n     Page 236 innkeeper replaced with innkeeper               \n     Page 238 Laotseng replaced with Laotseng                  \n     Page 246 Yungchang replaced with Yungchang and other  \n               replaced with and another                      \n     Page 249 Yunnaness replaced with Yunnanese                \n     Page 259 Liliputians replaced with Lilliputians           \n     Page 270 Full stops after Power and Kachins removed       \n     Page 294 Chunking replaced with Chungking                 \n     Page 295 Fenghsiang replaced with Fenghsiang             \n     Page 296 Lingchi replaced with Ling chi                   \n     Page 298 Subtopics under entry Soldiers separated with  \n               semicolons                                      \n                                                                \n     Inconsistent capitalisations between the Table of          \n     Contents and individual chapter titles have been retained \n                                                                \n     Discrepancies between illustration captions and those in   \n     the list of illustrations retained unless noted above    \n     As the illustrations were not included with the original   \n     scans but were located during processing of this book     \n     where there have been small differences the List of        \n     Illustrations has generally been preferred                \n                                                                \n     One instance of Taouen with an unclear mark above the      \n     u one instance of Taouen This has been left as is  \n                                                                \n     Punctuation of standard abbreviations Mr Mrs per      \n     cent s  has been standardised                         \n                                                                \n     Pounds shillings and pence have all been italicised      \n                                                                \n    \n\n                                   \n\n\n\n\n\nEnd of Project Gutenbergs An Australian in China by George Ernest Morrison\n\n END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA \n\n This file should be named 19172txt or 19172zip \nThis and all associated files of various formats will be found in\n        httpwwwgutenbergorg191719172\n\nProduced by Thierry Alberto and the Online Distributed\nProofreading Team at httpwwwpgdpnet\n\n\nUpdated editions will replace the previous onethe old editions\nwill be renamed\n\nCreating the works 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 ('fertile', 12),
 ('provide', 12),
 ('party', 12),
 ('hours', 12),
 ('fee', 12),
 ('future', 12),
 ('manner', 12),
 ('lord', 12),
 ('hard', 12),
 ('wonderful', 12),
 ('150', 12),
 ('prefect', 12),
 ('descended', 12),
 ('hsiakwan', 12),
 ('laotseng', 12),
 ('shans', 12),
 ('149', 12),
 ('missions', 11),
 ('scene', 11),
 ('inside', 11),
 ('suspension', 11),
 ('pleasure', 11),
 ('winter', 11),
 ('bedding', 11),
 ('travelling', 11),
 ('building', 11),
 ('foreigners', 11),
 ('hong', 11),
 ('methods', 11),
 ('strange', 11),
 ('conversion', 11),
 ('medical', 11),
 ('station', 11),
 ('opinion', 11),
 ('possible', 11),
 ('prepared', 11),
 ('kweichow', 11),
 ('turned', 11),
 ('trackers', 11),
 ('dark', 11),
 ('lives', 11),
 ('favour', 11),
 ('escape', 11),
 ('square', 11),
 ('laid', 11),
 ('second', 11),
 ('entrance', 11),
 ('removed', 11),
 ('line', 11),
 ('natural', 11),
 ('creek', 11),
 ('post', 11),
 ('fellows', 11),
 ('freely', 11),
 ('residence', 11),
 ('lately', 11),
 ('seeing', 11),
 ('route', 11),
 ('equivalent', 11),
 ('2000', 11),
 ('enough', 11),
 ('quite', 11),
 ('height', 11),
 ('broken', 11),
 ('marked', 11),
 ('king', 11),
 ('action', 11),
 ('comes', 11),
 ('baber', 11),
 ('powerful', 11),
 ('associated', 11),
 ('ate', 11),
 ('nature', 11),
 ('cold', 11),
 ('goddess', 11),
 ('tells', 11),
 ('wong', 11),
 ('strength', 11),
 ('images', 11),
 ('hall', 11),
 ('including', 11),
 ('jesuit', 11),
 ('access', 11),
 ('margary', 11),
 ('refund', 11),
 ('information', 11),
 ('sawbwa', 11),
 ('paragraph', 11),
 ('start', 10),
 ('london', 10),
 ('university', 10),
 ('telegraphs', 10),
 ('manyuen', 10),
 ('cultivation', 10),
 ('war', 10),
 ('distributing', 10),
 ('indian', 10),
 ('antiforeign', 10),
 ('coal', 10),
 ('command', 10),
 ('trained', 10),
 ('free', 10),
 ('cities', 10),
 ('progress', 10),
 ('harvest', 10),
 ('chinamen', 10),
 ('1893', 10),
 ('feared', 10),
 ('combined', 10),
 ('headquarters', 10),
 ('obtained', 10),
 ('assured', 10),
 ('englishman', 10),
 ('married', 10),
 ('legs', 10),
 ('doing', 10),
 ('change', 10),
 ('5', 10),
 ('fish', 10),
 ('stood', 10),
 ('keep', 10),
 ('seem', 10),
 ('prison', 10),
 ...]

import nltk
from nltk.corpus import stopwords

stopwords = nltk.corpus.stopwords.words('english')
newStopWords = ['project','gutenbergs', 'gutenberg','wwwgutenbergorg','httpwwwpgdpnet', 'ebook', 'online','anyone','anywhere','use','terms', 'httpwwwgutenbergorg', 'one','two','three','many','every','way','day','would','could','years','days','us','may','among','came','page','well','left','upon','said','never','mr','even','made','see','cited','like','seen','gutenbergtm','yet','must','still','whose']
stopwords.extend(newStopWords)

filtered_content = []

for word in cleaned_text.lower().split():
    if word not in stopwords:
        filtered_content.append(word)
    else:
        pass

filtered_content

['australian',
 'china',
 'george',
 'ernest',
 'morrison',
 'cost',
 'almost',
 'restrictions',
 'whatsoever',
 'copy',
 'give',
 'away',
 'reuse',
 'license',
 'included',
 'title',
 'australian',
 'china',
 'narrative',
 'quiet',
 'journey',
 'across',
 'china',
 'burma',
 'author',
 'george',
 'ernest',
 'morrison',
 'release',
 'date',
 'september',
 '4',
 '2006',
 '19172',
 'language',
 'english',
 'character',
 'set',
 'encoding',
 'ascii',
 'start',
 'australian',
 'china',
 'produced',
 'thierry',
 'alberto',
 'distributed',
 'proofreading',
 'team',
 'transcribers',
 'note',
 'obvious',
 'typographical',
 'errors',
 'corrected',
 'text',
 'complete',
 'list',
 'please',
 'bottom',
 'document',
 'macrons',
 'shown',
 'u',
 'illustration',
 'author',
 'western',
 'china',
 'australian',
 'china',
 'narrative',
 'quiet',
 'journey',
 'across',
 'china',
 'burma',
 'george',
 'ernest',
 'morrison',
 'md',
 'edin',
 'frgs',
 'third',
 'edition',
 'london',
 'horace',
 'cox',
 'windsor',
 'house',
 'breams',
 'buildings',
 'ec',
 'mdccccii',
 'john',
 'chiene',
 'md',
 'frcse',
 'frse',
 'etc',
 'professor',
 'surgery',
 'university',
 'edinburgh',
 'gave',
 'back',
 'power',
 'locomotion',
 'gratefully',
 'inscribe',
 'volume',
 'contents',
 'chapter',
 'pages',
 'introductorymainly',
 'missionaries',
 'city',
 'hankow',
 '111',
 'chapter',
 'ii',
 'hankow',
 'wanhsien',
 'account',
 'chinese',
 'women',
 'rapids',
 'yangtse',
 '1223',
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 'iii',
 'city',
 'wanhsien',
 'journey',
 'wanhsien',
 'chungking',
 '2434',
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 'chinese',
 'customsthe',
 'famous',
 'monsieur',
 'haas',
 'words',
 'opium',
 'fallacy',
 '3549',
 'chapter',
 'v',
 'journey',
 'chungking',
 'suifuchinese',
 'inns',
 '5062',
 'chapter',
 'vi',
 'city',
 'suifuthe',
 'china',
 'inland',
 'mission',
 'general',
 'remarks',
 'missionaries',
 'china',
 '6375',
 'chapter',
 'vii',
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 'chaotong',
 'remarks',
 'province',
 'yunnanchinese',
 'porters',
 'postal',
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 'banks',
 '7696',
 'chapter',
 'viii',
 'city',
 'chaotong',
 'remarks',
 'poverty',
 'infanticide',
 'selling',
 'female',
 'children',
 'slavery',
 'tortures',
 'chinese',
 'insensibility',
 'pain',
 '97106',
 'chapter',
 'ix',
 'mainly',
 'chinese',
 'doctors',
 '107114',
 'chapter',
 'x',
 'journey',
 'chaotong',
 'tongchuan',
 '115124',
 'chapter',
 'xi',
 'city',
 'tongchuan',
 'remarks',
 'infanticide',
 '125134',
 'chapter',
 'xii',
 'tongchuan',
 'yunnan',
 'city',
 '135147',
 'chapter',
 'xiii',
 'yunnan',
 'city',
 '148157',
 'chapter',
 'xiv',
 'gold',
 'banks',
 'telegraphs',
 'yunnan',
 '158170',
 'chapter',
 'xv',
 'french',
 'mission',
 'arsenal',
 'yunnan',
 'city',
 '171182',
 'chapter',
 'xvi',
 'journey',
 'yunnan',
 'city',
 'talifu',
 '183201',
 'chapter',
 'xvii',
 'city',
 'taliprisonspoisoningplagues',
 'missions',
 '202217',
 'chapter',
 'xviii',
 'journey',
 'tali',
 'remarks',
 'character',
 'cantonese',
 'chinese',
 'emigrants',
 'cretins',
 'wifebeating',
 'china',
 '218232',
 'chapter',
 'xix',
 'mekong',
 'salween',
 'rivershow',
 'travel',
 'china',
 '233243',
 'chapter',
 'xx',
 'city',
 'tengyuehthe',
 'celebrated',
 'wuntho',
 'sawbwashan',
 'soldiers',
 '244259',
 'chapter',
 'xxi',
 'town',
 'santa',
 'manyuen',
 'scene',
 'consul',
 'margarys',
 'murder',
 '260269',
 'chapter',
 'xxii',
 'china',
 'fighting',
 'powerthe',
 'kachinsand',
 'last',
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 'bhamo',
 '270281',
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 'bhamo',
 'mandalay',
 'rangoon',
 'calcutta',
 '282291',
 'illustrations',
 'mostly',
 'photographs',
 'c',
 'jensen',
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 'telegraphs',
 'author',
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 'china',
 'frontispiece',
 'authors',
 'chinese',
 'passport',
 '8',
 'balcony',
 'western',
 'china',
 '14',
 'river',
 'yangtse',
 'tunglohsia',
 '34',
 'memorial',
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 'futokuan',
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 '84',
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 '184',
 'eagle',
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 '192',
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 '204',
 'memorial',
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 '220',
 'descent',
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 'mekong',
 '232',
 'inside',
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 '236',
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 'salween',
 '240',
 'river',
 'shweli',
 'suspension',
 'bridge',
 '242',
 'suburb',
 'beyond',
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 'gate',
 'tengyueh',
 '250',
 'chinese',
 'map',
 'chungking',
 '292',
 'rough',
 'sketchmap',
 'china',
 'burma',
 'end',
 'australian',
 'china',
 'chapter',
 'introductorymainly',
 'missionaries',
 'city',
 'hankow',
 'first',
 'week',
 'february',
 '1894',
 'returned',
 'shanghai',
 'japan',
 'intention',
 'go',
 'yangtse',
 'river',
 'far',
 'chungking',
 'dressed',
 'chinese',
 'cross',
 'quietly',
 'western',
 'china',
 'chinese',
 'states',
 'kachin',
 'hills',
 'frontier',
 'burma',
 'ensuing',
 'narrative',
 'tell',
 'easily',
 'pleasantly',
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 'ago',
 'regarded',
 'formidable',
 'undertaking',
 'done',
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 'course',
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 'exploration',
 'consisted',
 'simply',
 'voyage',
 '1500',
 'miles',
 'yangtse',
 'river',
 'followed',
 'quiet',
 'though',
 'extended',
 'excursion',
 'another',
 '1500',
 'miles',
 'along',
 'great',
 'overland',
 'highway',
 'burma',
 'taken',
 'spoke',
 'chinese',
 'interpreter',
 'companion',
 'unarmed',
 'trusted',
 'implicitly',
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 'faith',
 'chinese',
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 'cross',
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 'exercise',
 'certain',
 'number',
 'weeks',
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 'travel',
 'miles',
 'foot',
 'mountainous',
 'countryand',
 'much',
 'forbearance',
 'went',
 'china',
 'possessed',
 'strong',
 'racial',
 'antipathy',
 'chinese',
 'common',
 'countrymen',
 'feeling',
 'long',
 'since',
 'given',
 'lively',
 'sympathy',
 'gratitude',
 'shall',
 'always',
 'look',
 'back',
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 'experienced',
 'traversing',
 'provinces',
 'wide',
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 'kingdoms',
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 'case',
 'least',
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 'forget',
 'precept',
 'deal',
 'gently',
 'strangers',
 'afar',
 'shanghai',
 'sunday',
 'february',
 '11th',
 'jardine',
 'mathesons',
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 'taiwo',
 'kind',
 'friend',
 'merchant',
 'captain',
 'seen',
 'life',
 'important',
 'seaport',
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 'though',
 'past',
 'midnight',
 'bid',
 'farewell',
 'shook',
 'hands',
 'wharf',
 'last',
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 'already',
 'promised',
 'first',
 'vacancy',
 'jardine',
 'mathesons',
 'time',
 'departure',
 'western',
 'china',
 'appointed',
 'officers',
 'illfated',
 'kowshing',
 'unarmed',
 'transport',
 'declaration',
 'war',
 'destroyed',
 'japanese',
 'gunboat',
 'slainstruck',
 'believe',
 'japanese',
 'bullet',
 'struggling',
 'life',
 'water',
 'travelled',
 'chinese',
 'dressed',
 'warm',
 'chinese',
 'winter',
 'clothing',
 'pigtail',
 'attached',
 'inside',
 'hat',
 'comfortable',
 'small',
 'cabin',
 'course',
 'bedding',
 'paying',
 'mexican',
 'dollar',
 'chinese',
 'steward',
 'foreign',
 'chow',
 'brought',
 'saloon',
 'traveller',
 'cares',
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 'put',
 'pride',
 'pocket',
 'pigtail',
 'back',
 'need',
 'pay',
 'onefourth',
 'cost',
 'travel',
 'european',
 'european',
 'dress',
 'found',
 'unwittingly',
 'travelling',
 'false',
 'pretences',
 'smart',
 'chief',
 'officer',
 'fare',
 'charged',
 'thought',
 'little',
 'expressed',
 'surprise',
 'thought',
 'fare',
 'seven',
 'dollars',
 'replied',
 'charge',
 'missionaries',
 'five',
 'dollars',
 'knew',
 'missionary',
 'told',
 'different',
 'acuteness',
 'chinese',
 'compradore',
 'received',
 'china',
 'merchants',
 'steamer',
 'hsin',
 'chi',
 'voyage',
 'shanghai',
 'tientsin',
 'also',
 'chinese',
 'dress',
 'conversation',
 'short',
 'sharp',
 'emphatic',
 'compradore',
 'looked',
 'searchingly',
 'pidgin',
 'belong',
 'askedmeaning',
 'business',
 'humbly',
 'answered',
 'belong',
 'jesus',
 'christ',
 'pidgin',
 'missionary',
 'instantly',
 'scorn',
 'replied',
 'dam',
 'fear',
 'called',
 'river',
 'ports',
 'reached',
 'hankow',
 '14th',
 'hankow',
 'chinese',
 'say',
 'mart',
 'eight',
 'provinces',
 'centre',
 'earth',
 'chief',
 'distributing',
 'centre',
 'yangtse',
 'valley',
 'capital',
 'city',
 'centre',
 'china',
 'trade',
 'tea',
 'staple',
 'export',
 'declining',
 'rapidly',
 'particularly',
 'since',
 '1886',
 'indian',
 'opium',
 'goes',
 'higher',
 'river',
 'point',
 'importation',
 'hankow',
 'insignificant',
 'amounting',
 '738',
 'piculs',
 '44',
 'tons',
 'per',
 'annum',
 'hankow',
 'bank',
 'yangtse',
 'separated',
 'width',
 'han',
 'river',
 'hanyang',
 'width',
 'yangtse',
 'wuchang',
 'divisions',
 'really',
 'form',
 'large',
 'city',
 'inhabitants',
 'entire',
 'population',
 'colony',
 'victoria',
 'wuchang',
 'capital',
 'city',
 'provinces',
 'hunan',
 'hupeh',
 'viceroy',
 'chang',
 'chi',
 'tung',
 'resides',
 'official',
 'yamen',
 'dispenses',
 'injustice',
 'building',
 'almost',
 'handsome',
 'american',
 'missionhouses',
 'overlook',
 'chang',
 'chi',
 'tung',
 'antiforeign',
 'viceroys',
 'china',
 'yet',
 'viceroy',
 'empire',
 'ever',
 'foreigners',
 'employ',
 'within',
 'four',
 'seas',
 'says',
 'men',
 'brothers',
 'yet',
 'provinces',
 'rules',
 'closed',
 'foreigners',
 'missionaries',
 'compelled',
 'remain',
 'shelter',
 'foreign',
 'concession',
 'hankow',
 'public',
 'spirit',
 'unusual',
 'chinese',
 'viceroys',
 'devoted',
 'immense',
 'revenues',
 'office',
 'modern',
 'development',
 'resources',
 'vicekingdom',
 'erected',
 'gigantic',
 'cottonmill',
 'wuchang',
 'thirtyfive',
 'thousand',
 'spindles',
 'covering',
 'six',
 'acres',
 'lit',
 'electric',
 'light',
 'reservoir',
 'acres',
 'half',
 'built',
 'large',
 'mint',
 'hanyang',
 'erected',
 'magnificent',
 'ironworks',
 'blast',
 'furnaces',
 'cover',
 'acres',
 'provided',
 'latest',
 'machinery',
 'iron',
 'coal',
 'mines',
 'railway',
 'seventeen',
 'miles',
 'long',
 'mines',
 'river',
 'specially',
 'constructed',
 'riversteamers',
 'special',
 'hoisting',
 'machinery',
 'riverbanks',
 'money',
 'poured',
 'water',
 'probably',
 'important',
 'official',
 'china',
 'leave',
 'office',
 'poor',
 'man',
 'acting',
 'private',
 'secretary',
 'viceroy',
 'clever',
 'chinese',
 'named',
 'kaw',
 'hong',
 'beng',
 'author',
 'defensio',
 'populi',
 'oftenquoted',
 'attack',
 'missionary',
 'methods',
 'appeared',
 'first',
 'north',
 'china',
 'daily',
 'news',
 'linguist',
 'unusual',
 'ability',
 'publishes',
 'daily',
 'news',
 'translations',
 'heine',
 'english',
 'verse',
 'kaw',
 'gifted',
 'rare',
 'command',
 'resources',
 'english',
 'master',
 'arts',
 'university',
 'edinburgh',
 'yet',
 'strange',
 'paradox',
 'notwithstanding',
 'privilege',
 'trained',
 'pious',
 'earnest',
 'community',
 'united',
 'kingdom',
 'lights',
 'united',
 'presbyterian',
 ...]

count_words(" ".join(filtered_content))

[('chinese', 507),
 ('china', 405),
 ('city', 251),
 ('yunnan', 176),
 ('men', 163),
 ('river', 162),
 ('mission', 147),
 ('cash', 127),
 ('time', 114),
 ('little', 113),
 ('man', 99),
 ('missionary', 96),
 ('miles', 94),
 ('opium', 93),
 ('work', 93),
 ('journey', 91),
 ('chungking', 91),
 ('temple', 88),
 ('road', 85),
 ('long', 85),
 ('town', 84),
 ('chinaman', 81),
 ('first', 80),
 ('feet', 76),
 ('good', 76),
 ('burma', 75),
 ('province', 75),
 ('country', 75),
 ('great', 72),
 ('poor', 70),
 ('whose', 70),
 ('missionaries', 69),
 ('large', 67),
 ('western', 65),
 ('tali', 63),
 ('still', 63),
 ('english', 62),
 ('must', 62),
 ('li', 62),
 ('room', 60),
 ('replaced', 60),
 ('water', 59),
 ('yet', 59),
 ('children', 58),
 ('chaotong', 57),
 ('without', 57),
 ('seen', 56),
 ('gutenbergtm', 56),
 ('people', 54),
 ('death', 54),
 ('foreign', 53),
 ('bank', 52),
 ('far', 52),
 ('valley', 52),
 ('saw', 52),
 ('rev', 52),
 ('inn', 52),
 ('four', 51),
 ('open', 51),
 ('chapter', 50),
 ('always', 50),
 ('small', 50),
 ('passed', 50),
 ('gave', 49),
 ('another', 49),
 ('tea', 49),
 ('says', 49),
 ('village', 49),
 ('away', 48),
 ('inland', 48),
 ('coolies', 48),
 ('go', 47),
 ('chief', 47),
 ('met', 47),
 ('night', 47),
 ('round', 47),
 ('bhamo', 46),
 ('known', 46),
 ('dr', 46),
 ('till', 46),
 ('father', 46),
 ('morning', 45),
 ('yangtse', 44),
 ('last', 44),
 ('along', 44),
 ('went', 44),
 ('traveller', 44),
 ('almost', 43),
 ('tongchuan', 43),
 ('done', 43),
 ('ever', 43),
 ('native', 43),
 ('rice', 43),
 ('come', 43),
 ('french', 42),
 ('course', 42),
 ('much', 42),
 ('money', 42),
 ('full', 42),
 ('england', 42),
 ('carried', 42),
 ('back', 41),
 ('life', 41),
 ('half', 41),
 ('old', 41),
 ('suifu', 40),
 ('szechuen', 40),
 ('high', 40),
 ('tengyueh', 40),
 ('world', 40),
 ('found', 40),
 ('say', 40),
 ('god', 40),
 ('present', 40),
 ('telegraph', 40),
 ('across', 39),
 ('near', 39),
 ('given', 39),
 ('told', 39),
 ('called', 39),
 ('thus', 39),
 ('customs', 39),
 ('bamboo', 39),
 ('hundred', 39),
 ('sent', 39),
 ('silver', 39),
 ('words', 38),
 ('gold', 38),
 ('wall', 38),
 ('number', 38),
 ('boat', 38),
 ('works', 38),
 ('illustration', 37),
 ('women', 37),
 ('beyond', 37),
 ('built', 37),
 ('paid', 37),
 ('ten', 37),
 ('best', 37),
 ('mountain', 37),
 ('give', 36),
 ('gate', 36),
 ('charge', 36),
 ('five', 36),
 ('within', 36),
 ('year', 36),
 ('often', 36),
 ('take', 36),
 ('dead', 36),
 ('foot', 35),
 ('make', 35),
 ('early', 35),
 ('brought', 34),
 ('also', 34),
 ('capital', 34),
 ('yamen', 34),
 ('six', 34),
 ('speak', 34),
 ('distance', 34),
 ('young', 34),
 ('pretty', 34),
 ('plain', 34),
 ('common', 33),
 ('case', 33),
 ('important', 33),
 ('might', 33),
 ('government', 33),
 ('district', 33),
 ('burmese', 33),
 ('bridge', 32),
 ('find', 32),
 ('cannot', 32),
 ('street', 32),
 ('son', 32),
 ('since', 31),
 ('heaven', 31),
 ('shanghai', 30),
 ('though', 30),
 ('hands', 30),
 ('received', 30),
 ('british', 30),
 ('agreement', 30),
 ('next', 30),
 ('chair', 30),
 ('hankow', 29),
 ('main', 29),
 ('hills', 29),
 ('look', 29),
 ('per', 29),
 ('nearly', 29),
 ('asked', 29),
 ('magistrate', 29),
 ('cut', 29),
 ('soldiers', 28),
 ('south', 28),
 ('dressed', 28),
 ('states', 28),
 ('taken', 28),
 ('less', 28),
 ('better', 28),
 ('christian', 28),
 ('heard', 28),
 ('walls', 28),
 ('things', 28),
 ('crowd', 28),
 ('poppy', 28),
 ('together', 28),
 ('single', 28),
 ('name', 27),
 ('reached', 27),
 ('point', 27),
 ('official', 27),
 ('hope', 27),
 ('body', 27),
 ('converts', 27),
 ('return', 27),
 ('right', 27),
 ('entered', 27),
 ('wife', 27),
 ('woman', 27),
 ('carry', 27),
 ('rich', 27),
 ('stone', 27),
 ('living', 27),
 ('pony', 27),
 ('age', 27),
 ('electronic', 27),
 ('fort', 26),
 ('mountains', 26),
 ('pay', 26),
 ('pleasant', 26),
 ('part', 26),
 ('leaving', 26),
 ('rapid', 26),
 ('new', 26),
 ('set', 25),
 ('talifu', 25),
 ('kind', 25),
 ('order', 25),
 ('service', 25),
 ('head', 25),
 ('seemed', 25),
 ('face', 25),
 ('heart', 25),
 ('doubt', 25),
 ('beautiful', 25),
 ('think', 25),
 ('100', 25),
 ('everywhere', 25),
 ('place', 25),
 ('times', 25),
 ('officials', 25),
 ('houses', 25),
 ('path', 25),
 ('visit', 25),
 ('ground', 25),
 ('millions', 25),
 ('nothing', 25),
 ('sun', 25),
 ('cost', 24),
 ('house', 24),
 ('ago', 24),
 ('officer', 24),
 ('seven', 24),
 ('empire', 24),
 ('later', 24),
 ('instead', 24),
 ('hill', 24),
 ('home', 24),
 ('foundation', 24),
 ('used', 24),
 ('live', 24),
 ('family', 24),
 ('armed', 24),
 ('mule', 24),
 ('infanticide', 23),
 ('provinces', 23),
 ('put', 23),
 ('peking', 23),
 ('broad', 23),
 ('bed', 23),
 ('coolie', 23),
 ('going', 23),
 ('stream', 23),
 ('side', 23),
 ('huge', 23),
 ('grass', 23),
 ('west', 23),
 ('rebellion', 23),
 ('p', 23),
 ('wanhsien', 22),
 ('frontier', 22),
 ('past', 22),
 ('already', 22),
 ('need', 22),
 ('knew', 22),
 ('different', 22),
 ('eight', 22),
 ('trade', 22),
 ('numbers', 22),
 ('become', 22),
 ('true', 22),
 ('girls', 22),
 ('rather', 22),
 ('either', 22),
 ('boys', 22),
 ('question', 22),
 ('twenty', 22),
 ('honour', 22),
 ('excellent', 22),
 ('carrying', 22),
 ('word', 22),
 ('understand', 22),
 ('power', 21),
 ('famous', 21),
 ('imperial', 21),
 ('behind', 21),
 ('certain', 21),
 ('wide', 21),
 ('charming', 21),
 ('however', 21),
 ('gathered', 21),
 ('foreigner', 21),
 ('alone', 21),
 ('society', 21),
 ('land', 21),
 ('following', 21),
 ('walk', 21),
 ('led', 21),
 ('pass', 21),
 ('fields', 21),
 ('w', 21),
 ('taels', 21),
 ('indeed', 21),
 ('outside', 21),
 ('thought', 20),
 ('united', 20),
 ('steps', 20),
 ('fifteen', 20),
 ('kept', 20),
 ('steep', 20),
 ('crossed', 20),
 ('level', 20),
 ('dozen', 20),
 ('mohammedan', 20),
 ('formerly', 20),
 ('loads', 20),
 ('husband', 20),
 ('gods', 20),
 ('bones', 20),
 ('general', 19),
 ('viceroy', 19),
 ('end', 19),
 ('returned', 19),
 ('courtesy', 19),
 ('population', 19),
 ('let', 19),
 ('means', 19),
 ('military', 19),
 ('engaged', 19),
 ('soon', 19),
 ('written', 19),
 ('superior', 19),
 ('took', 19),
 ('moment', 19),
 ('rock', 19),
 ('mother', 19),
 ('temples', 19),
 ('love', 19),
 ('white', 19),
 ('kindly', 19),
 ('soldier', 19),
 ('held', 19),
 ('famine', 19),
 ('hand', 19),
 ('priests', 19),
 ('sold', 19),
 ('emperor', 19),
 ('travellers', 19),
 ('lake', 19),
 ('language', 18),
 ('third', 18),
 ('stage', 18),
 ('pagoda', 18),
 ('spoke', 18),
 ('months', 18),
 ('shall', 18),
 ('believe', 18),
 ('centre', 18),
 ('earth', 18),
 ('chang', 18),
 ('american', 18),
 ('spirit', 18),
 ('success', 18),
 ('heathen', 18),
 ('civilisation', 18),
 ('current', 18),
 ('thirty', 18),
 ('offered', 18),
 ('evening', 18),
 ('eyes', 18),
 ('hour', 18),
 ('narrow', 18),
 ('red', 18),
 ('characters', 18),
 ('wished', 18),
 ('reward', 18),
 ('hundreds', 18),
 ('fifty', 18),
 ('occupied', 18),
 ('walked', 18),
 ('cases', 18),
 ('food', 18),
 ('pere', 18),
 ('table', 18),
 ('seat', 18),
 ('punishment', 18),
 ('paper', 18),
 ('chairen', 18),
 ('laohwan', 18),
 ('provided', 17),
 ('dress', 17),
 ('thousand', 17),
 ('greater', 17),
 ('bring', 17),
 ('junk', 17),
 ('afternoon', 17),
 ('laoban', 17),
 ('ready', 17),
 ('difficulty', 17),
 ('towards', 17),
 ('hung', 17),
 ('stranger', 17),
 ('court', 17),
 ('g', 17),
 ('fellow', 17),
 ('offer', 17),
 ('finished', 17),
 ('h', 17),
 ('distant', 17),
 ('lost', 17),
 ('streets', 17),
 ('sight', 17),
 ('admirable', 17),
 ('weight', 17),
 ('died', 17),
 ('crowded', 17),
 ('trees', 17),
 ('friends', 17),
 ('awful', 17),
 ('law', 17),
 ('term', 17),
 ('goitre', 17),
 ('monsieur', 16),
 ('inns', 16),
 ('poverty', 16),
 ('view', 16),
 ('comfortable', 16),
 ('short', 16),
 ('higher', 16),
 ('form', 16),
 ('office', 16),
 ('light', 16),
 ('private', 16),
 ('equal', 16),
 ('turn', 16),
 ('arrival', 16),
 ('wish', 16),
 ('walled', 16),
 ('australia', 16),
 ('1000', 16),
 ('deep', 16),
 ('stopped', 16),
 ('gorge', 16),
 ('seems', 16),
 ('cent', 16),
 ('friendly', 16),
 ('method', 16),
 ('knowledge', 16),
 ('believed', 16),
 ('rank', 16),
 ('bought', 16),
 ('villages', 16),
 ('became', 16),
 ('forth', 16),
 ('nine', 16),
 ('except', 16),
 ('parents', 16),
 ('usually', 16),
 ('worth', 16),
 ('brother', 16),
 ('market', 16),
 ('mud', 16),
 ('tael', 16),
 ('donations', 16),
 ('yungchang', 16),
 ('license', 15),
 ('character', 15),
 ('shown', 15),
 ('haas', 15),
 ('banks', 15),
 ('jensen', 15),
 ('passport', 15),
 ('cross', 15),
 ('tell', 15),
 ('interpreter', 15),
 ('steamer', 15),
 ('captain', 15),
 ('japanese', 15),
 ('shelter', 15),
 ('church', 15),
 ('bible', 15),
 ('board', 15),
 ('de', 15),
 ('mile', 15),
 ('doctor', 15),
 ('drawn', 15),
 ('yang', 15),
 ('rest', 15),
 ('girl', 15),
 ('agree', 15),
 ('virtue', 15),
 ('late', 15),
 ('know', 15),
 ('human', 15),
 ('price', 15),
 ('reason', 15),
 ('position', 15),
 ('yellow', 15),
 ('quickly', 15),
 ('brave', 15),
 ('average', 15),
 ('mine', 15),
 ('occasion', 15),
 ('support', 15),
 ('eighteen', 15),
 ('value', 15),
 ('j', 15),
 ('treated', 15),
 ('fell', 15),
 ('hot', 15),
 ('crime', 15),
 ('mandarin', 15),
 ('copy', 14),
 ('consul', 14),
 ('murder', 14),
 ('c', 14),
 ('european', 14),
 ('friend', 14),
 ('looked', 14),
 ('public', 14),
 ('immense', 14),
 ('rare', 14),
 ('kingdom', 14),
 ('boy', 14),
 ('ichang', 14),
 ('ordinary', 14),
 ('3', 14),
 ('whatever', 14),
 ('size', 14),
 ('speaking', 14),
 ('especially', 14),
 ('close', 14),
 ('double', 14),
 ('middle', 14),
 ('devil', 14),
 ('truth', 14),
 ('passing', 14),
 ('sat', 14),
 ('others', 14),
 ('splendid', 14),
 ('rarely', 14),
 ('march', 14),
 ('sides', 14),
 ('wooden', 14),
 ('receive', 14),
 ('catholic', 14),
 ('waiting', 14),
 ('read', 14),
 ('child', 14),
 ('characteristic', 14),
 ('interest', 14),
 ('cause', 14),
 ('commission', 14),
 ('distinguished', 14),
 ('arrived', 14),
 ('story', 14),
 ('possession', 14),
 ('forty', 14),
 ('boundary', 14),
 ('convert', 14),
 ('ponies', 14),
 ('memory', 14),
 ('sons', 14),
 ('instance', 14),
 ('die', 14),
 ('copyright', 14),
 ('escort', 14),
 ('rode', 14),
 ('colonel', 14),
 ('4', 13),
 ('female', 13),
 ('travel', 13),
 ('santa', 13),
 ('kachin', 13),
 ('easily', 13),
 ('handsome', 13),
 ('master', 13),
 ('comfort', 13),
 ('members', 13),
 ('port', 13),
 ('sixty', 13),
 ('edge', 13),
 ('subject', 13),
 ('gentleman', 13),
 ('fact', 13),
 ('save', 13),
 ('6', 13),
 ('twelve', 13),
 ('black', 13),
 ('easy', 13),
 ('length', 13),
 ('standing', 13),
 ('efforts', 13),
 ('eat', 13),
 ('spot', 13),
 ('upper', 13),
 ('killed', 13),
 ('low', 13),
 ('covered', 13),
 ('larger', 13),
 ('places', 13),
 ('follow', 13),
 ('dying', 13),
 ('smith', 13),
 ('corner', 13),
 ('highest', 13),
 ('finest', 13),
 ('showed', 13),
 ('bad', 13),
 ('sale', 13),
 ('get', 13),
 ('attention', 13),
 ('experience', 13),
 ('commissioner', 13),
 ('dogs', 13),
 ('spirits', 13),
 ('none', 13),
 ('tonquin', 13),
 ('distances', 13),
 ('chinas', 13),
 ('fine', 13),
 ('state', 13),
 ('importance', 13),
 ('cotton', 13),
 ('mohammedans', 13),
 ('lying', 13),
 ('stages', 13),
 ('system', 13),
 ('hardly', 13),
 ('employed', 13),
 ('greatest', 13),
 ('coming', 13),
 ('priest', 13),
 ('expedition', 13),
 ('mungtze', 13),
 ('literary', 13),
 ('archive', 13),
 ('distributed', 12),
 ('buildings', 12),
 ('john', 12),
 ('remarks', 12),
 ('arsenal', 12),
 ('salween', 12),
 ('memorial', 12),
 ('chi', 12),
 ('erected', 12),
 ('probably', 12),
 ('canton', 12),
 ('bishop', 12),
 ('converted', 12),
 ('remarkable', 12),
 ('taking', 12),
 ('reach', 12),
 ('junks', 12),
 ('waited', 12),
 ('lofty', 12),
 ('bound', 12),
 ('filled', 12),
 ('shillings', 12),
 ('rocks', 12),
 ('rested', 12),
 ('formed', 12),
 ('rains', 12),
 ('heads', 12),
 ('salt', 12),
 ('painted', 12),
 ('eighty', 12),
 ('eye', 12),
 ('raised', 12),
 ('noble', 12),
 ('pointed', 12),
 ('meet', 12),
 ('opened', 12),
 ('condition', 12),
 ('afterwards', 12),
 ('beggars', 12),
 ('knows', 12),
 ('taiping', 12),
 ('garden', 12),
 ('wood', 12),
 ('frequently', 12),
 ('traffic', 12),
 ('card', 12),
 ('accompanied', 12),
 ('desire', 12),
 ('placed', 12),
 ('lay', 12),
 ('neck', 12),
 ('manager', 12),
 ('company', 12),
 ('difficult', 12),
 ('disease', 12),
 ('fire', 12),
 ('person', 12),
 ('governor', 12),
 ('mules', 12),
 ('curiosity', 12),
 ('sleep', 12),
 ('fertile', 12),
 ('provide', 12),
 ('party', 12),
 ('hours', 12),
 ('fee', 12),
 ('future', 12),
 ('manner', 12),
 ('lord', 12),
 ('hard', 12),
 ('wonderful', 12),
 ('150', 12),
 ('prefect', 12),
 ('descended', 12),
 ('hsiakwan', 12),
 ('laotseng', 12),
 ('shans', 12),
 ('149', 12),
 ('missions', 11),
 ('scene', 11),
 ('inside', 11),
 ('suspension', 11),
 ('pleasure', 11),
 ('winter', 11),
 ('bedding', 11),
 ('travelling', 11),
 ('building', 11),
 ('foreigners', 11),
 ('hong', 11),
 ('methods', 11),
 ('strange', 11),
 ('conversion', 11),
 ('medical', 11),
 ('station', 11),
 ('opinion', 11),
 ('possible', 11),
 ('prepared', 11),
 ('kweichow', 11),
 ('turned', 11),
 ('trackers', 11),
 ('dark', 11),
 ('lives', 11),
 ('favour', 11),
 ('escape', 11),
 ('square', 11),
 ('laid', 11),
 ('second', 11),
 ('entrance', 11),
 ('removed', 11),
 ('line', 11),
 ('natural', 11),
 ('creek', 11),
 ('post', 11),
 ('fellows', 11),
 ('freely', 11),
 ('residence', 11),
 ('lately', 11),
 ('seeing', 11),
 ('route', 11),
 ('equivalent', 11),
 ('2000', 11),
 ('enough', 11),
 ('quite', 11),
 ('height', 11),
 ('broken', 11),
 ('marked', 11),
 ('king', 11),
 ('action', 11),
 ('comes', 11),
 ('baber', 11),
 ('powerful', 11),
 ('associated', 11),
 ('ate', 11),
 ('nature', 11),
 ('cold', 11),
 ('goddess', 11),
 ('tells', 11),
 ('wong', 11),
 ('strength', 11),
 ('images', 11),
 ('hall', 11),
 ('including', 11),
 ('jesuit', 11),
 ('access', 11),
 ('margary', 11),
 ('refund', 11),
 ('information', 11),
 ('sawbwa', 11),
 ('paragraph', 11),
 ('start', 10),
 ('london', 10),
 ('university', 10),
 ('telegraphs', 10),
 ('manyuen', 10),
 ('cultivation', 10),
 ('war', 10),
 ('distributing', 10),
 ('indian', 10),
 ('antiforeign', 10),
 ('coal', 10),
 ('command', 10),
 ('trained', 10),
 ('free', 10),
 ('cities', 10),
 ('progress', 10),
 ('harvest', 10),
 ('chinamen', 10),
 ('1893', 10),
 ('feared', 10),
 ('combined', 10),
 ('headquarters', 10),
 ('obtained', 10),
 ('assured', 10),
 ('englishman', 10),
 ('married', 10),
 ('legs', 10),
 ('change', 10),
 ('5', 10),
 ('fish', 10),
 ('stood', 10),
 ('keep', 10),
 ('seem', 10),
 ('prison', 10),
 ('passage', 10),
 ('soil', 10),
 ('byandby', 10),
 ('cook', 10),
 ('several', 10),
 ('hanging', 10),
 ('services', 10),
 ('wind', 10),
 ('permitted', 10),
 ('fingers', 10),
 ('green', 10),
 ('fortune', 10),
 ('show', 10),
 ('gone', 10),
 ('collected', 10),
 ('refused', 10),
 ('merit', 10),
 ('obtain', 10),
 ('write', 10),
 ('intelligence', 10),
 ('regard', 10),
 ('solid', 10),
 ('birth', 10),
 ('peaceful', 10),
 ('absence', 10),
 ('penny', 10),
 ('mean', 10),
 ('soul', 10),
 ('walking', 10),
 ('rose', 10),
 ('sir', 10),
 ('mounted', 10),
 ('class', 10),
 ('prisoners', 10),
 ('f', 10),
 ('hospital', 10),
 ('seized', 10),
 ('thousands', 10),
 ('respect', 10),
 ('laws', 10),
 ('represented', 10),
 ('largely', 10),
 ('cast', 10),
 ('ill', 10),
 ('medicines', 10),
 ('anything', 10),
 ('continued', 10),
 ('eggs', 10),
 ('chicago', 10),
 ('features', 10),
 ('baptised', 10),
 ('worship', 10),
 ('whole', 10),
 ('supreme', 10),
 ('neighbourhood', 10),
 ('therefore', 10),
 ('personal', 10),
 ('protection', 10),
 ('seated', 10),
 ('clean', 10),
 ('air', 10),
 ('guard', 10),
 ('situated', 10),
 ('forest', 10),
 ('horses', 10),
 ('unknown', 10),
 ('permission', 10),
 ('goitrous', 10),
 ('trademark', 10),
 ('australian', 9),
 ('quiet', 9),
 ('rapids', 9),
 ('pain', 9),
 ('cantonese', 9),
 ('mandalay', 9),
 ('rangoon', 9),
 ('opposite', 9),
 ('rough', 9),
 ('possessed', 9),
 ('strong', 9),
 ('gratitude', 9),
 ('officers', 9),
 ('pigtail', 9),
 ('attached', 9),
 ('fear', 9),
 ('width', 9),
 ('remain', 9),
 ('seventeen', 9),
 ('appeared', 9),
 ('north', 9),
 ('daily', 9),
 ('news', 9),
 ('earnest', 9),
 ('community', 9),
 ('making', 9),
 ('described', 9),
 ('fathers', 9),
 ('entirely', 9),
 ('quarters', 9),
 ('rise', 9),
 ('summer', 9),
 ('accompany', 9),
 ('thirteen', 9),
 ('duty', 9),
 ('boats', 9),
 ('deeply', 9),
 ('working', 9),
 ('feature', 9),
 ('noise', 9),
 ('flowers', 9),
 ('apart', 9),
 ('felt', 9),
 ('front', 9),
 ('floor', 9),
 ('hold', 9),
 ('buried', 9),
 ('began', 9),
 ('whether', 9),
 ('reading', 9),
 ('worked', 9),
 ('skill', 9),
 ('determined', 9),
 ('looking', 9),
 ('arrested', 9),
 ('bodies', 9),
 ('climbed', 9),
 ('dirty', 9),
 ('door', 9),
 ('according', 9),
 ('praise', 9),
 ('sick', 9),
 ('patient', 9),
 ('conference', 9),
 ('teacher', 9),
 ('rags', 9),
 ('midday', 9),
 ('richest', 9),
 ('assistance', 9),
 ('pork', 9),
 ('abundant', 9),
 ('copper', 9),
 ('something', 9),
 ('proved', 9),
 ('happy', 9),
 ('attended', 9),
 ('recognised', 9),
 ('staff', 9),
 ('offices', 9),
 ('expected', 9),
 ...]

counted_filtered_words = count_words(" ".join(filtered_content))

import pandas as pd

df = pd.DataFrame.from_dict(count_words(" ".join(filtered_content)))

df.columns =['Word', 'Count']

#df.head(20)

df.head(50)

	Word	Count
0	chinese	507
1	china	405
2	city	251
3	yunnan	176
4	men	163
5	river	162
6	mission	147
7	cash	127
8	time	114
9	little	113
10	man	99
11	missionary	96
12	miles	94
13	opium	93
14	work	93
15	journey	91
16	chungking	91
17	temple	88
18	road	85
19	long	85
20	town	84
21	chinaman	81
22	first	80
23	feet	76
24	good	76
25	burma	75
26	province	75
27	country	75
28	great	72
29	poor	70
30	whose	70
31	missionaries	69
32	large	67
33	western	65
34	tali	63
35	still	63
36	english	62
37	must	62
38	li	62
39	room	60
40	replaced	60
41	water	59
42	yet	59
43	children	58
44	chaotong	57
45	without	57
46	seen	56
47	gutenbergtm	56
48	people	54
49	death	54

import matplotlib.pyplot as plt

my_frame = df.head(20)
fig = plt.figure(figsize = (5, 5))
ax = fig.add_subplot(111)

ax.table(cellText = my_frame.values,
          rowLabels = my_frame.index,
          colLabels = my_frame.columns,
          loc = "center"
         )
ax.set_title("Top 20 Words ")

ax.axis("off");

words = nltk.tokenize.word_tokenize(content.lower())

nltk.FreqDist(words)

FreqDist({',': 7256, 'the': 7139, '.': 3682, 'of': 3619, 'and': 2672, 'in': 2357, 'to': 2236, 'a': 2134, 'is': 1154, 'was': 1080, ...})

bigrams = nltk.bigrams(words)

[pair for pair in bigrams]

[('project', 'gutenberg'),
 ('gutenberg', "'s"),
 ("'s", 'an'),
 ('an', 'australian'),
 ('australian', 'in'),
 ('in', 'china'),
 ('china', ','),
 (',', 'by'),
 ('by', 'george'),
 ('george', 'ernest'),
 ('ernest', 'morrison'),
 ('morrison', 'this'),
 ('this', 'ebook'),
 ('ebook', 'is'),
 ('is', 'for'),
 ('for', 'the'),
 ('the', 'use'),
 ('use', 'of'),
 ('of', 'anyone'),
 ('anyone', 'anywhere'),
 ('anywhere', 'at'),
 ('at', 'no'),
 ('no', 'cost'),
 ('cost', 'and'),
 ('and', 'with'),
 ('with', 'almost'),
 ('almost', 'no'),
 ('no', 'restrictions'),
 ('restrictions', 'whatsoever'),
 ('whatsoever', '.'),
 ('.', 'you'),
 ('you', 'may'),
 ('may', 'copy'),
 ('copy', 'it'),
 ('it', ','),
 (',', 'give'),
 ('give', 'it'),
 ('it', 'away'),
 ('away', 'or'),
 ('or', 're-use'),
 ('re-use', 'it'),
 ('it', 'under'),
 ('under', 'the'),
 ('the', 'terms'),
 ('terms', 'of'),
 ('of', 'the'),
 ('the', 'project'),
 ('project', 'gutenberg'),
 ('gutenberg', 'license'),
 ('license', 'included'),
 ('included', 'with'),
 ('with', 'this'),
 ('this', 'ebook'),
 ('ebook', 'or'),
 ('or', 'online'),
 ('online', 'at'),
 ('at', 'www.gutenberg.org'),
 ('www.gutenberg.org', 'title'),
 ('title', ':'),
 (':', 'an'),
 ('an', 'australian'),
 ('australian', 'in'),
 ('in', 'china'),
 ('china', 'being'),
 ('being', 'the'),
 ('the', 'narrative'),
 ('narrative', 'of'),
 ('of', 'a'),
 ('a', 'quiet'),
 ('quiet', 'journey'),
 ('journey', 'across'),
 ('across', 'china'),
 ('china', 'to'),
 ('to', 'burma'),
 ('burma', 'author'),
 ('author', ':'),
 (':', 'george'),
 ('george', 'ernest'),
 ('ernest', 'morrison'),
 ('morrison', 'release'),
 ('release', 'date'),
 ('date', ':'),
 (':', 'september'),
 ('september', '4'),
 ('4', ','),
 (',', '2006'),
 ('2006', '['),
 ('[', 'ebook'),
 ('ebook', '#'),
 ('#', '19172'),
 ('19172', ']'),
 (']', 'language'),
 ('language', ':'),
 (':', 'english'),
 ('english', 'character'),
 ('character', 'set'),
 ('set', 'encoding'),
 ('encoding', ':'),
 (':', 'ascii'),
 ('ascii', '***'),
 ('***', 'start'),
 ('start', 'of'),
 ('of', 'this'),
 ('this', 'project'),
 ('project', 'gutenberg'),
 ('gutenberg', 'ebook'),
 ('ebook', 'an'),
 ('an', 'australian'),
 ('australian', 'in'),
 ('in', 'china'),
 ('china', '***'),
 ('***', 'produced'),
 ('produced', 'by'),
 ('by', 'thierry'),
 ('thierry', 'alberto'),
 ('alberto', 'and'),
 ('and', 'the'),
 ('the', 'online'),
 ('online', 'distributed'),
 ('distributed', 'proofreading'),
 ('proofreading', 'team'),
 ('team', 'at'),
 ('at', 'http'),
 ('http', ':'),
 (':', '//www.pgdp.net'),
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 ('transcriber', "'s"),
 ("'s", 'note'),
 ('note', ':'),
 (':', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', 'obvious'),
 ('obvious', 'typographical'),
 ('typographical', 'errors'),
 ('errors', 'have'),
 ('have', 'been'),
 ('been', 'corrected'),
 ('corrected', 'in'),
 ('in', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', 'this'),
 ('this', 'text'),
 ('text', '.'),
 ('.', 'for'),
 ('for', 'a'),
 ('a', 'complete'),
 ('complete', 'list'),
 ('list', ','),
 (',', 'please'),
 ('please', 'see'),
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 ('the', 'bottom'),
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 ('|', 'this'),
 ('this', 'document'),
 ('document', '.'),
 ('.', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', '|'),
 ('|', 'macrons'),
 ('macrons', 'are'),
 ('are', 'shown'),
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 ('[', '=o'),
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 ('journey', 'across'),
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 ('to', 'burma'),
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 ('george', 'ernest'),
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 ('morrison', 'm.d'),
 ('m.d', '.'),
 ('.', 'edin.'),
 ('edin.', ','),
 (',', 'f.r.g.s'),
 ('f.r.g.s', '.'),
 ('.', '_third'),
 ('_third', 'edition_'),
 ('edition_', 'london'),
 ('london', ':'),
 (':', 'horace'),
 ('horace', 'cox'),
 ('cox', 'windsor'),
 ('windsor', 'house'),
 ('house', ','),
 (',', 'bream'),
 ('bream', "'s"),
 ("'s", 'buildings'),
 ('buildings', 'e.c'),
 ('e.c', '.'),
 ('.', 'mdccccii'),
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 ('to', 'john'),
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 (',', 'm.d.'),
 ('m.d.', ','),
 (',', 'f.r.c.s.e.'),
 ('f.r.c.s.e.', ','),
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 (',', 'professor'),
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 ('chapter', 'i.'),
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 ('12-23', 'chapter'),
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 ('famous', 'monsieur'),
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 (',', 'and'),
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 ('few', 'words'),
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 ('the', 'opium'),
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 ('fallacy', '35-49'),
 ('35-49', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'v.'),
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 ('50-62', 'chapter'),
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 (',', 'postal'),
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 (',', 'selling'),
 ('selling', 'female'),
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 ('into', 'slavery'),
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 (',', 'tortures'),
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 ('ix', '.'),
 ('.', 'mainly'),
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 ('about', 'chinese'),
 ('chinese', 'doctors'),
 ('doctors', '107-114'),
 ('107-114', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'x.'),
 ('x.', 'the'),
 ('the', 'journey'),
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 ('from', 'chaotong'),
 ('chaotong', 'to'),
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 ('115-124', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'xi'),
 ('xi', '.'),
 ('.', 'the'),
 ('the', 'city'),
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 (',', 'with'),
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 ('upon', 'infanticide'),
 ('infanticide', '125-134'),
 ('125-134', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'xii'),
 ('xii', '.'),
 ('.', 'tongchuan'),
 ('tongchuan', 'to'),
 ('to', 'yunnan'),
 ('yunnan', 'city'),
 ('city', '135-147'),
 ('135-147', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'xiii'),
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 ('.', 'at'),
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 ('city', '148-157'),
 ('148-157', 'chapter'),
 ('chapter', 'xiv'),
 ('xiv', '.'),
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 ('banks', ','),
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 ('and', 'telegraphs'),
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 ('158-170', 'chapter'),
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 ('snow-clad', 'mountains'),
 ('mountains', 'behind'),
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 ('suspension', 'bridge'),
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 ('250', 'chinese'),
 ('chinese', 'map'),
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 ('sketch-map', 'of'),
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 ('i.', 'introductory'),
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 ('missionaries', 'and'),
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 ('the', 'first'),
 ('first', 'week'),
 ('week', 'of'),
 ('of', 'february'),
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 (',', '1894'),
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 (',', 'i'),
 ('i', 'returned'),
 ('returned', 'to'),
 ('to', 'shanghai'),
 ('shanghai', 'from'),
 ('from', 'japan'),
 ('japan', '.'),
 ('.', 'it'),
 ('it', 'was'),
 ('was', 'my'),
 ('my', 'intention'),
 ('intention', 'to'),
 ('to', 'go'),
 ('go', 'up'),
 ('up', 'the'),
 ('the', 'yangtse'),
 ('yangtse', 'river'),
 ('river', 'as'),
 ('as', 'far'),
 ('far', 'as'),
 ('as', 'chungking'),
 ('chungking', ','),
 (',', 'and'),
 ('and', 'then'),
 ('then', ','),
 (',', 'dressed'),
 ('dressed', 'as'),
 ('as', 'a'),
 ('a', 'chinese'),
 ('chinese', ','),
 (',', 'to'),
 ('to', 'cross'),
 ('cross', 'quietly'),
 ('quietly', 'over'),
 ...]

import nltk
import collections
from nltk import tokenize
from nltk.sentiment.vader import SentimentIntensityAnalyzer
from nltk.corpus import stopwords
from sklearn.feature_extraction.text import CountVectorizer
from nltk import FreqDist
import re
import spacy
import pandas as pd
from sklearn.feature_extraction.text import CountVectorizer
import numpy as np
from stop_words import get_stop_words

pip install lda

Defaulting to user installation because normal site-packages is not writeable
Requirement already satisfied: lda in /home/user/.local/lib/python3.7/site-packages (2.0.0)
Requirement already satisfied: pbr<4,>=0.6 in /home/user/.local/lib/python3.7/site-packages (from lda) (3.1.1)
Requirement already satisfied: numpy<2.0,>=1.13.0 in /ext/anaconda2020.02/lib/python3.7/site-packages (from lda) (1.18.5)
Note: you may need to restart the kernel to use updated packages.

import lda 

def topical(content,n_topics,n_top_words):
    txt_1 = "".join(content).lower()
    txt_paragraphs = txt_1.split("\n\n")
    vectorizer = CountVectorizer(stop_words="english")
    X = vectorizer.fit_transform(txt_paragraphs)
    model = lda.LDA(n_topics, n_iter=1500, random_state=1)
    model.fit(X)
    vocab = vectorizer.get_feature_names()
    topic_word = model.topic_word_
    for i, topic_dist in enumerate(topic_word):
        topic_words = np.array(vocab)[np.argsort(topic_dist)][:-(n_top_words+1):-1]
        print('Topic {}: {}'.format(i, ' '.join(topic_words)))
    return()

topical(content,20,10)

INFO:lda:n_documents: 1222
INFO:lda:vocab_size: 10046
INFO:lda:n_words: 43093
INFO:lda:n_topics: 20
INFO:lda:n_iter: 1500
WARNING:lda:all zero row in document-term matrix found
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Topic 0: mission missionary missionaries china mr inland little time work years
Topic 1: men miles day days journey coolies way li long road
Topic 2: river road valley feet mountain bridge high town little plain
Topic 3: cash yunnan gold silver money capital 100 taels number cost
Topic 4: chinese said english foreign came room told words understand crowd
Topic 5: china chinese years known seen family sent love told far
Topic 6: death children dead wife living mother woman way husband girls
Topic 7: burma bhamo china burmese british journey soldiers men officer western
Topic 8: gutenberg project tm work works foundation terms electronic agreement states
Topic 9: opium china chinese shall pipe poppy chairen large grown eye
Topic 10: chinese china yunnan chungking yangtse telegraph customs mr provinces french
Topic 11: cited rev dr infanticide john university worship peking sir high
Topic 12: river boat water bank like men time junk rapid moment
Topic 13: room rice inn tea street poor little brought good people
Topic 14: city province yamen town gate magistrate yunnan tali west wall
Topic 15: temple chinese built priests stone fort centre near cut gods
Topic 16: chinese shan sun women feet town dressed blue yellow white
Topic 17: man came young years went saw did men morning father
Topic 18: china chinese chinaman says god man does england country western
Topic 19: page replaced yunnan chapter city chungking suifu chaotong hsien chang

()

with open('russell_problemofchina/19172.txt', 'r') as f:
    content = f.readlines()

content[:257]

["Project Gutenberg's An Australian in China, by George Ernest Morrison\n",
 '\n',
 'This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with\n',
 'almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or\n',
 're-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included\n',
 'with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'Title: An Australian in China\n',
 '       Being the Narrative of a Quiet Journey Across China to Burma\n',
 '\n',
 'Author: George Ernest Morrison\n',
 '\n',
 'Release Date: September 4, 2006 [EBook #19172]\n',
 '\n',
 'Language: English\n',
 '\n',
 'Character set encoding: ASCII\n',
 '\n',
 '*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA ***\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'Produced by Thierry Alberto and the Online Distributed\n',
 'Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '       *       *       *       *       *\n',
 '    +------------------------------------------------------------+\n',
 "    | Transcriber's Note:                                        |\n",
 '    |                                                            |\n',
 '    | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in        |\n',
 '    | this text. For a complete list, please see the bottom of   |\n',
 '    | this document.                                             |\n',
 '    |                                                            |\n',
 '    | Macrons are shown as [=o] and [=u]                         |\n',
 '    |                                                            |\n',
 '    +------------------------------------------------------------+\n',
 '\n',
 '       *       *       *       *       *\n',
 '\n',
 '[Illustration: THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA.]\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA\n',
 '\n',
 'BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA\n',
 '\n',
 'BY GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON M.D. EDIN., F.R.G.S.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '_THIRD EDITION_\n',
 '\n',
 "LONDON: HORACE COX WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS E.C.\n",
 '\n',
 'MDCCCCII\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'TO\n',
 '\n',
 'JOHN CHIENE, M.D.,\n',
 '\n',
 'F.R.C.S.E., F.R.S.E., ETC.,\n',
 '\n',
 'PROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH,\n',
 '\n',
 'WHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION.\n',
 '\n',
 'I GRATEFULLY\n',
 '\n',
 'INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'CONTENTS.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER I.                                              PAGES\n',
 '  INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY\n',
 '  OF HANKOW                                                1-11\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER II.\n',
 '  FROM HANKOW TO WANHSIEN, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF\n',
 '  CHINESE WOMEN AND THE RAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE             12-23\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER III.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF WANHSIEN, AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN\n',
 '  TO CHUNGKING                                            24-34\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER IV.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF CHUNGKING--THE CHINESE CUSTOMS--THE\n',
 '  FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS, AND A FEW WORDS ON\n',
 '  THE OPIUM FALLACY                                       35-49\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER V.\n',
 '  THE JOURNEY FROM CHUNGKING TO SUIFU--CHINESE INNS       50-62\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER VI.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF SUIFU--THE CHINA INLAND MISSION, WITH\n',
 '  SOME GENERAL REMARKS ABOUT MISSIONARIES IN CHINA        63-75\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER VII.\n',
 '  SUIFU TO CHAOTONG, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE\n',
 '  PROVINCE OF YUNNAN--CHINESE PORTERS, POSTAL\n',
 '  ARRANGEMENTS, AND BANKS                                 76-96\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER VIII.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF CHAOTONG, WITH SOME REMARKS ON ITS\n',
 '  POVERTY, INFANTICIDE, SELLING FEMALE CHILDREN\n',
 '  INTO SLAVERY, TORTURES, AND THE CHINESE INSENSIBILITY\n',
 '  TO PAIN                                                97-106\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER IX.\n',
 '  MAINLY ABOUT CHINESE DOCTORS                          107-114\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER X.\n',
 '  THE JOURNEY FROM CHAOTONG TO TONGCHUAN                115-124\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XI.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF TONGCHUAN, WITH SOME REMARKS UPON\n',
 '  INFANTICIDE                                           125-134\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XII.\n',
 '  TONGCHUAN TO YUNNAN CITY                              135-147\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XIII.\n',
 '  AT YUNNAN CITY                                        148-157\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XIV.\n',
 '  GOLD, BANKS, AND TELEGRAPHS IN YUNNAN                 158-170\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XV.\n',
 '  THE FRENCH MISSION AND THE ARSENAL IN YUNNAN CITY     171-182\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XVI.\n',
 '  THE JOURNEY FROM YUNNAN CITY TO TALIFU                183-201\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XVII.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF TALI--PRISONS--POISONING--PLAGUES AND\n',
 '  MISSIONS                                              202-217\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XVIII.\n',
 '  THE JOURNEY FROM TALI, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE\n',
 '  CHARACTER OF THE CANTONESE, CHINESE EMIGRANTS,\n',
 '  CRETINS, AND WIFE-BEATING IN CHINA                    218-232\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XIX.\n',
 '  THE MEKONG AND SALWEEN RIVERS--HOW TO TRAVEL\n',
 '  IN CHINA                                              233-243\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XX.\n',
 '  THE CITY OF TENGYUEH--THE CELEBRATED WUNTHO\n',
 '  SAWBWA--SHAN SOLDIERS                                 244-259\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XXI.\n',
 '  THE SHAN TOWN OF SANTA, AND MANYUEN, THE SCENE\n',
 "  OF CONSUL MARGARY'S MURDER                            260-269\n",
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XXII.\n',
 '  CHINA AS A FIGHTING POWER--THE KACHINS--AND THE\n',
 '  LAST STAGE INTO BHAMO                                 270-281\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHAPTER XXIII.\n',
 '  BHAMO, MANDALAY, RANGOON, AND CALCUTTA                282-291\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'ILLUSTRATIONS.\n',
 '\n',
 '_Mostly from Photographs by_ MR. C. JENSEN _of the Imperial Chinese\n',
 'Telegraphs._\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA                    _Frontispiece._\n',
 '\n',
 "  THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE PASSPORT                        _page_ 8\n",
 '\n',
 '  ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA                              14\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA                          34\n',
 '\n',
 '  MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN                 34\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHUNGKING, FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE YANGTSE           38\n',
 '\n',
 '  A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING                              44\n',
 '\n',
 '  ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU                                  52\n',
 '\n',
 '  CULTIVATION IN TERRACES                                    58\n',
 '\n',
 '  SCENE IN SZECHUEN                                          58\n',
 '\n',
 '  OPIUM-SMOKING                                              72\n',
 '\n',
 '  A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN                                       84\n',
 '\n',
 '  LAOWATAN                                                   84\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE OPIUM-SMOKER OF ROMANCE                                93\n',
 '\n',
 '  PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE, WESTERN CHINA                      118\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY                          146\n',
 '\n',
 '  VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY                                       156\n',
 '\n',
 '  SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY                       168\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY, 250 FEET HIGH                  174\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE VICEROY OF TWO PROVINCES                              180\n',
 '\n',
 "  THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE NAME                                 182\n",
 '\n',
 '  THE GIANT OF YUNNAN                                       184\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE "EAGLE NEST BARRIER," ON THE ROAD TO TALIFU           192\n',
 '\n',
 '  SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU                         204\n',
 '\n',
 '  MEMORIAL IN A TEMPLE NEAR TALIFU                          220\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG                           232\n',
 '\n',
 '  INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE                        236\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE RIVER SALWEEN                                         240\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE                242\n',
 '\n',
 '  THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH              250\n',
 '\n',
 '  CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING                                  292\n',
 '\n',
 '  ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA                  _at end._\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'CHAPTER I.\n',
 '\n',
 'INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n']

edited_content = content[257:]

edited_content

['In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan.\n',
 'It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and\n',
 'then, dressed as a Chinese, to cross quietly over Western China, the\n',
 'Chinese Shan States, and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma. The\n',
 'ensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey,\n',
 'which a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable\n',
 'undertaking, can now be done.\n',
 '\n',
 'The journey was, of course, in no sense one of exploration; it consisted\n',
 'simply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River, followed by a\n',
 'quiet, though extended, excursion of another 1500 miles along the great\n',
 'overland highway into Burma, taken by one who spoke no Chinese, who had\n',
 'no interpreter or companion, who was unarmed, but who trusted implicitly\n',
 'in the good faith of the Chinese. Anyone in the world can cross over to\n',
 'Burma in the way I did, provided he be willing to exercise for a certain\n',
 'number of weeks or months some endurance--for he will have to travel\n',
 'many miles on foot over a mountainous country--and much forbearance.\n',
 '\n',
 'I went to China possessed with the strong racial antipathy to the\n',
 'Chinese common to my countrymen, but that feeling has long since given\n',
 'way to one of lively sympathy and gratitude, and I shall always look\n',
 'back with pleasure to this journey, during which I experienced, while\n',
 'traversing provinces as wide as European kingdoms, uniform kindness and\n',
 'hospitality, and the most charming courtesy. In my case, at least, the\n',
 'Chinese did not forget their precept, "deal gently with strangers from\n',
 'afar."\n',
 '\n',
 "I left Shanghai on Sunday, February 11th, by the Jardine Matheson's\n",
 'steamer _Taiwo_. One kind friend, a merchant captain who had seen life\n',
 'in every important seaport in the world, came down, though it was past\n',
 'midnight, to bid me farewell. We shook hands on the wharf, and for the\n',
 'last time. Already he had been promised the first vacancy in Jardine\n',
 "Matheson's. Some time after my departure, when I was in Western China,\n",
 'he was appointed one of the officers of the ill-fated _Kowshing_, and\n',
 'when this unarmed transport before the declaration of war was destroyed\n',
 'by a Japanese gunboat, he was among the slain--struck, I believe, by a\n',
 'Japanese bullet while struggling for life in the water.\n',
 '\n',
 'I travelled as a Chinese, dressed in warm Chinese winter clothing, with\n',
 'a pigtail attached to the inside of my hat. I could not have been more\n',
 'comfortable. I had a small cabin to myself. I had of course my own\n',
 'bedding, and by paying a Mexican dollar a day to the Chinese steward,\n',
 '"foreign chow," was brought me from the saloon. The traveller who cares\n',
 'to travel in this way, to put his pride in his pocket and a pigtail down\n',
 'his back, need pay only one-fourth of what it would cost him to travel\n',
 'as a European in European dress.\n',
 '\n',
 'But I was, I found, unwittingly travelling under false pretences. When\n',
 'the smart chief officer came for my fare he charged me, I thought, too\n',
 'little. I expressed my surprise, and said that I thought the fare was\n',
 'seven dollars. "So it is," he replied "but we only charge missionaries\n',
 'five dollars, and I knew you were a missionary even before they told\n',
 'me." How different was his acuteness from that of the Chinese compradore\n',
 "who received me on the China Merchants' steamer _Hsin Chi_, in which I\n",
 'once made a voyage from Shanghai to Tientsin, also in Chinese dress! The\n',
 'conversation was short, sharp, and emphatic. The compradore looked at me\n',
 'searchingly. "What pidgin belong you?" he asked--meaning what is your\n',
 'business? Humbly I answered, "My belong Jesus Christ pidgin"; that is, I\n',
 'am a missionary, to which he instantly and with some scorn replied, "No\n',
 'dam fear!"\n',
 '\n',
 'We called at the river ports and reached Hankow on the 14th. Hankow, the\n',
 'Chinese say, is the mart of eight provinces and the centre of the earth.\n',
 'It is the chief distributing centre of the Yangtse valley, the capital\n',
 'city of the centre of China. The trade in tea, its staple export, is\n',
 'declining rapidly, particularly since 1886. Indian opium goes no higher\n',
 'up the river than this point; its importation into Hankow is now\n',
 'insignificant, amounting to only 738 piculs (44 tons) per annum. Hankow\n',
 'is on the left bank of the Yangtse, separated only by the width of the\n',
 'Han river from Hanyang, and by the width of the Yangtse from Wuchang;\n',
 'these three divisions really form one large city, with more inhabitants\n',
 'than the entire population of the colony of Victoria.\n',
 '\n',
 'Wuchang is the capital city of the two provinces of Hunan and Hupeh; it\n',
 'is here that the Viceroy, Chang Chi Tung, resides in his official yamen\n',
 'and dispenses injustice from a building almost as handsome as the\n',
 'American mission-houses which overlook it. Chang Chi Tung is the most\n',
 'anti-foreign of all the Viceroys of China; yet no Viceroy in the Empire\n',
 'has ever had so many foreigners in his employ as he. "Within the four\n',
 'seas," he says, "all men are brothers"; yet the two provinces he rules\n',
 'over are closed against foreigners, and the missionaries are compelled\n',
 'to remain under the shelter of the foreign Concession in Hankow. With a\n',
 'public spirit unusual among Chinese Viceroys he has devoted the immense\n',
 'revenues of his office to the modern development of the resources of his\n',
 'vice-kingdom. He has erected a gigantic cotton-mill at Wuchang with\n',
 'thirty-five thousand spindles, covering six acres and lit with the\n',
 'electric light, and with a reservoir of three acres and a half. He has\n',
 'built a large mint. At Hanyang he has erected magnificent iron-works and\n',
 'blast furnaces which cover many acres and are provided with all the\n',
 'latest machinery. He has iron and coal mines, with a railway seventeen\n',
 'miles long from the mines to the river, and specially constructed\n',
 'river-steamers and special hoisting machinery at the river-banks. Money\n',
 'he has poured out like water; he is probably the only important official\n',
 'in China who will leave office a poor man.\n',
 '\n',
 'Acting as private secretary to the Viceroy is a clever Chinese named Kaw\n',
 'Hong Beng, the author of _Defensio Populi_, that often-quoted attack\n',
 'upon missionary methods which appeared first in _The North China Daily\n',
 'News_. A linguist of unusual ability, who publishes in _The Daily News_\n',
 'translations from Heine in English verse, Kaw is gifted with a rare\n',
 'command over the resources of English. He is a Master of Arts of the\n',
 'University of Edinburgh. Yet, strange paradox, notwithstanding that he\n',
 'had the privilege of being trained in the most pious and earnest\n',
 'community in the United Kingdom, under the lights of the United\n',
 'Presbyterian Kirk, Free Kirk, Episcopalian Church, and _The_ Kirk, not\n',
 'to mention a large and varied assortment of Dissenting Churches of more\n',
 'or less dubious orthodoxy, he is openly hostile to the introduction of\n',
 'Christianity into China. And nowhere in China is the opposition to the\n',
 'introduction of Christianity more intense than in the Yangtse valley. In\n',
 'this intensity many thoughtful missionaries see the greater hope of the\n',
 'ultimate conversion of this portion of China; opposition they say is a\n',
 'better aid to missionary success than mere apathy.\n',
 '\n',
 'During the time I was in China, I met large numbers of missionaries of\n',
 'all classes, in many cities from Peking to Canton, and they unanimously\n',
 'expressed satisfaction at the progress they are making in China.\n',
 'Expressed succinctly, their harvest may be described as amounting to a\n',
 'fraction more than two Chinamen per missionary per annum. If, however,\n',
 'the paid ordained and unordained native helpers be added to the number\n',
 'of missionaries, you find that the aggregate body converts nine-tenths\n',
 'of a Chinaman per worker per annum; but the missionaries deprecate their\n',
 'work being judged by statistics. There are 1511 Protestant missionaries\n',
 'labouring in the Empire; and, estimating their results from the\n',
 'statistics of previous years as published in the _Chinese Recorder_, we\n',
 'find that they gathered last year (1893) into the fold 3127 Chinese--not\n',
 'all of whom it is feared are genuine Christians--at a cost of _L350,000_,\n',
 'a sum equal to the combined incomes of the ten chief London hospitals.\n',
 '\n',
 'Hankow itself swarms with missionaries, "who are unhappily divided into\n',
 'so many sects, that even a foreigner is bewildered by their number, let\n',
 'alone the heathen to whom they are accredited." (Medhurst.)\n',
 '\n',
 'Dwelling in well-deserved comfort in and around the foreign settlement,\n',
 'there are members of the London Missionary Society, of the Tract\n',
 'Society, of the Local Tract Society, of the British and Foreign Bible\n',
 'Society, of the National Bible Society of Scotland, of the American\n',
 'Bible Society; there are Quaker missionaries, Baptist, Wesleyan, and\n',
 'Independent missionaries of private means; there are members of the\n',
 'Church Missionary Society, of the American Board of Missions, and of the\n',
 'American High Church Episcopal Mission; there is a Medical Mission in\n',
 'connection with the London Missionary Society, there is a flourishing\n',
 'French Mission under a bishop, the "_Missions etrangeres de Paris_," a\n',
 'Mission of Franciscan Fathers, most of whom are Italian, and a Spanish\n',
 'Mission of the Order of St. Augustine.\n',
 '\n',
 'The China Inland Mission has its chief central distributing station at\n',
 'Hankow, and here also are the headquarters of a Scandinavian Mission, of\n',
 'a Danish Mission, and of an unattached mission, most of the members of\n',
 'which are also Danish. Where there are so many missions, of so many\n',
 'different sects, and holding such widely divergent views, it is, I\n',
 'suppose, inevitable that each mission should look with some disfavour\n',
 'upon the work done by its neighbours, should have some doubts as to the\n',
 'expediency of their methods, and some reasonable misgivings as to the\n',
 'genuineness of their conversions.\n',
 '\n',
 'The Chinese "Rice Christians," those spurious Christians who become\n',
 'converted in return for being provided with rice, are just those who\n',
 'profit by these differences of opinion, and who, with timely lapses from\n',
 'grace, are said to succeed in being converted in turn by all the\n',
 'missions from the Augustins to the Quakers.\n',
 '\n',
 'Every visitor to Hankow and to all other open ports, who is a supporter\n',
 'of missionary effort, is pleased to find that his preconceived notions\n',
 'as to the hardships and discomforts of the open port missionary in China\n',
 'are entirely false. Comfort and pleasures of life are there as great as\n',
 'in any other country. Among the most comfortable residences in Hankow\n',
 'are the quarters of the missionaries; and it is but right that the\n',
 'missionaries should be separated as far as possible from all\n',
 'discomfort--missionaries who are sacrificing all for China, and who are\n',
 'prepared to undergo any reasonable hardship to bring enlightenment to\n',
 'this land of darkness.\n',
 '\n',
 'I called at the headquarters of the Spanish mission of Padres Agustinos\n',
 'and smoked a cigarette with two of the Padres, and exchanged\n',
 'reminiscences of Valladolid and Barcelona. And I can well conceive,\n',
 'having seen the extreme dirtiness of the mission premises, how little\n',
 'the Spaniard has to alter his ways in order to make them conform to the\n',
 'more ancient civilisation of the Chinese.\n',
 '\n',
 'In Hankow there is a large foreign concession with a handsome embankment\n',
 'lined by large buildings. There is a rise and fall in the river between\n',
 'summer and winter levels of nearly sixty feet. In the summer the river\n',
 'laps the edge of the embankment and may overflow into the concession; in\n',
 'the winter, broad steps lead down to the edge of the water which, even\n',
 'when shrunk into its bed, is still more than half a mile in width. Our\n',
 'handsome consulate is at one end of the embankment; at the other there\n',
 'is a remarkable municipal building which was designed by a former City\n',
 'constable, who was, I hope, more expert with the handcuffs than he was\n',
 'with the pencil.\n',
 '\n',
 "[Illustration: THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE PASSPORT.]\n",
 '\n',
 'Our interests in Hankow are protected by Mr. Pelham Warren, the Consul,\n',
 'one of the ablest men in the Service. I registered at the Consulate as a\n',
 'British subject and obtained a Chinese passport in terms of the Treaty\n',
 'of Tientsin for the four provinces Hupeh, Szechuen, Kweichow, and\n',
 'Yunnan, available for one year from the date of issue.\n',
 '\n',
 'I had no servant. An English-speaking "boy," hearing that I was in need\n',
 'of one, came to me to recommend "his number one flend," who, he assured\n',
 'me, spoke English "all the same Englishman." But when the "flend" came I\n',
 'found that he spoke English all the same as I spoke Chinese. He was not\n',
 'abashed, but turned away wrath by saying to me, through an interpreter,\n',
 '"It is true that I cannot speak the foreign language, but the foreign\n',
 'gentleman is so clever that in one month he will speak Chinese\n',
 'beautifully." We did not come to terms.\n',
 '\n',
 "At Hankow I embarked on the China Merchants' steamer _Kweili_, the only\n",
 'triple-screw steamer on the River, and four days later, on February\n',
 '21st, I landed at Ichang, the most inland port on the Yangtse yet\n',
 'reached by steam. Ichang is an open port; it is the scene of the\n',
 'anti-foreign riot of September 2nd, 1891, when the foreign settlement\n',
 'was pillaged and burnt by the mob, aided by soldiers of the Chentai\n',
 'Loh-Ta-Jen, the head military official in charge at Ichang, "who gave\n',
 'the outbreak the benefit of his connivance." Pleasant zest is given to\n',
 'life here in the anticipation of another outbreak; it is the only\n',
 'excitement.\n',
 '\n',
 'From Ichang to Chungking--a distance of 412 miles--the river Yangtse, in\n',
 'a great part of its course, is a series of rapids which no steamer has\n',
 'yet attempted to ascend, though it is contended that the difficulties of\n',
 'navigation would not be insuperable to a specially constructed steamer\n',
 'of elevated horse-power. Some idea of the speed of the current at this\n',
 'part of the river may be given by the fact that a junk, taking thirty to\n',
 'thirty-five days to do the upward journey, hauled most of the way by\n',
 'gangs of trackers, has been known to do the down-river journey in two\n',
 'days and a half.\n',
 '\n',
 'Believing that I could thus save some days on the journey, I decided to\n',
 'go to Chungking on foot, and engaged a coolie to accompany me. We were\n',
 'to start on the Thursday afternoon; but about midnight on Wednesday I\n',
 'met Dr. Aldridge, of the Customs, who easily persuaded me that by taking\n',
 'the risk of going in a small boat (a _wupan_), and not in an ordinary\n',
 'passenger junk (a _kwatze_), I might, with luck, reach Chungking as soon\n',
 'by water as I could reach Wanhsien at half the distance by land. The\n',
 'Doctor was a man of surprising energy. He offered to arrange everything\n',
 "for me, and by 6 o'clock in the morning he had engaged a boat, had\n",
 'selected a captain (_laoban_), and a picked crew of four young men, who\n',
 'undertook to land me in Chungking in fifteen days, and had given them\n',
 'all necessary instructions for my journey. All was to be ready for a\n',
 'start the same evening.\n',
 '\n',
 'During the course of the morning the written agreement was brought me by\n',
 'the laoban, drawn up in Chinese and duly signed, of which a Chinese\n',
 'clerk made me the following translation into English. I transcribe it\n',
 'literally:--\n',
 '\n',
 'Yang Hsing Chung (the laoban) hereby contracts to convey Dr. M. to\n',
 'Chungking on the following conditions:--\n',
 '\n',
 '     1. The passage-money agreed upon is 28,000 cash (_L2 16s._),\n',
 '     which includes all charges.\n',
 '\n',
 '     2. If Chungking is reached in twelve days, Dr. M. will give\n',
 '     the master 32,500 cash instead; if in thirteen days 31,000,\n',
 '     and if in fifteen days 28,000.\n',
 '\n',
 '     3. If all goes well and the master does his duty\n',
 '     satisfactorily, Dr. M. will give him 30,000 cash, even if he\n',
 '     gets to Chungking in fifteen days.\n',
 '\n',
 '     4. The sum of 14,000 cash is to be advanced to the master\n',
 '     before starting; the remainder to be paid on arrival at\n',
 '     Chungking.\n',
 '\n',
 '               (Signed)     YANG HSING CHUNG.\n',
 '\n',
 '  Dated the 17th day of the 2nd moon,\n',
 '          K, shui 20th year.\n',
 '\n',
 'The Chinaman who wrote this in English speaks English better than many\n',
 'Englishmen.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'CHAPTER II.\n',
 '\n',
 'FROM ICHANG TO WANHSIEN, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF CHINESE WOMEN AND THE\n',
 'RAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE KIANG.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'The agreement was brought me in the morning; all the afternoon I was\n',
 'busy, and at 8 p.m. I embarked from the Customs pontoon. The boat was a\n',
 'wupan (five boards), 28 feet long and drawing 8 inches. Its sail was\n',
 'like the wing of a butterfly, with transverse ribs of light bamboo; its\n',
 'stern was shaped "like a swallow\'s wings at rest." An improvised\n',
 'covering of mats amidships was my crib; and with spare mats, slipt\n',
 "during the day over the boat's hood, coverings could be made at night\n",
 "for'ard for my three men and aft for the other two. It seemed a frail\n",
 'little craft to face the dangers of the cataracts, but it was manned by\n',
 'as smart a crew of young Chinese as could be found on the river. It was\n',
 'pitch dark when we paddled into the stream amidst a discharge of\n',
 'crackers. As we passed under the _Kweili_, men were there to wish me\n',
 '_bon voyage_, and a revolver was emptied into the darkness to propitiate\n',
 'the river god.\n',
 '\n',
 'We paddled up the bank under the sterns of countless junks, past the\n',
 'walled city, and then, crossing to the other bank, we made fast and\n',
 'waited for the morning to begin our journey. The lights of the city were\n',
 'down the river; all was quiet; my men were in good heart, and there was\n',
 'no doubt whatever that they would make every effort to fulfil their\n',
 'contract.\n',
 '\n',
 'At daylight we were away again and soon entered the first of the great\n',
 'gorges where the river has cleft its way through the mountains.\n',
 '\n',
 'With a clear and sunny sky, the river flowing smoothly and reflecting\n',
 "deeply the lofty and rugged hills which fall steeply to the water's\n",
 'edge, a light boat, and a model crew, it was a pleasure to lie at ease\n',
 'wrapped in my Chinese pukai and watch the many junks lazily falling down\n',
 'the river, the largest of them "dwarfed by the colossal dimensions of\n',
 'the surrounding scenery to the size of sampans," and the fishing boats,\n',
 'noiseless but for the gentle creaking of the sheers and dip-net,\n',
 'silently working in the still waters under the bank.\n',
 '\n',
 'At Ping-shan-pa there is an outstation of the Imperial Maritime Customs\n',
 'in charge of a seafaring man who was once a cockatoo farmer in South\n',
 'Australia, and drove the first team of bullocks to the Mount Brown\n',
 'diggings. He lives comfortably in a house-boat moored to the bank. He is\n',
 'one of the few Englishmen in China married in the English way, as\n',
 'distinct from the Chinese, to a Chinese girl. His wife is one of the\n',
 'prettiest girls that ever came out of Nanking, and talks English\n',
 'delightfully with a musical voice that is pleasant to listen to. I\n',
 'confess that I am one of those who agree with the missionary writer in\n',
 'regarding "the smile of a Chinese woman as inexpressibly charming." I\n',
 'have seen girls in China who would be considered beautiful in any\n',
 'capital in Europe. The attractiveness of the Japanese lady has been the\n',
 'theme of many writers, but, speaking as an impartial observer who has\n',
 'been both in Japan and China, I have never been able to come to any\n',
 'other decision than that in every feature the Chinese woman is superior\n',
 'to her Japanese sister. She is head and shoulders above the Japanese;\n',
 'she is more intellectual, or, rather, she is more capable of\n',
 'intellectual development; she is incomparably more chaste and modest.\n',
 'She is prettier, sweeter, and more trustworthy than the misshapen\n',
 'cackling little dot with black teeth that we are asked to admire as a\n',
 'Japanese beauty. The traveller in China is early impressed by the\n',
 'contrast between the almost entire freedom from apparent immorality of\n',
 'the Chinese cities, especially of Western China, and the flaunting\n',
 'indecency of the _Yoshiwaras_ of Japan, with "their teeming, seething,\n',
 'busy mass of women, whose virtue is industry and whose industry is\n',
 'vice."\n',
 '\n',
 'The small feet of the Chinese women, though admired by the Chinese and\n',
 'poetically referred to by them as "three-inch gold lilies," are in our\n',
 'eyes a very unpleasant deformity--but still, even with this deformity,\n',
 'the walk of the Chinese woman is more comely than the gait of the\n',
 'Japanese woman as she shambles ungracefully along with her little bent\n',
 'legs, scraping her wooden-soled slippers along the pavement with a noise\n',
 'that sets your teeth on edge. "Girls are like flowers," say the Chinese,\n',
 '"like the willow. It is very important that their feet should be bound\n',
 'short so that they can walk beautifully with mincing steps, swaying\n',
 'gracefully, and thus showing to all that they are persons of\n',
 'respectability." Apart from the Manchus, the dominant race, whose women\n',
 'do not bind their feet, all chaste Chinese girls have small feet. Those\n',
 'who have large feet are either, speaking generally, ladies of easy\n',
 'virtue or slave girls. And, of course, no Christian girl is allowed to\n',
 'have her feet bound.\n',
 '\n',
 '[Illustration: ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA.]\n',
 '\n',
 'Leaving Ping-shan-pa with a stiff breeze in our favour we slowly stemmed\n',
 'the current. Look at the current side, and you would think we were doing\n',
 'eight knots an hour or more, but look at the shore side, close to which\n',
 'we kept to escape as far as possible from the current, and you saw how\n',
 'gradually we felt our way along.\n',
 '\n',
 'At a double row of mat sheds filled with huge coils of bamboo rope of\n',
 'all thicknesses, my laoban went ashore to purchase a towline; he took\n',
 'with him 1000 cash (about two shillings), and returned with a coil 100\n',
 'yards in length and 600 cash of change. The rope he brought was made of\n',
 'plaited bamboo, was as thick as the middle finger, and as tough as\n',
 'whalebone.\n',
 '\n',
 'The country was more open and terraced everywhere into gardens. Our\n',
 'progress was most satisfactory. When night came we drew into the bank,\n',
 'and I coiled up in my crib and made myself comfortable. Space was\n',
 'cramped, and I had barely room to stretch my legs. My cabin was 5 feet 6\n',
 'inches square and 4 feet high, open behind, but with two little doors in\n',
 'front, out of which I could just manage to squeeze myself sideways round\n',
 'the mast. Coir matting was next the floor boards, then a thick Chinese\n',
 'quilt (a _pukai_), then a Scotch plaid made in Geelong. My pillow was\n',
 'Chinese, and the hardest part of the bed; my portmanteau was beside me\n',
 'and served as a desk; a Chinese candle, more wick than wax, stuck into a\n',
 'turnip, gave me light.\n',
 '\n',
 "This, our first day's journey, brought us to within sound of the worst\n",
 'rapid on the river, the Hsintan, and the roar of the cataract hummed in\n',
 'our ears all night.\n',
 '\n',
 'Early in the morning we were at the foot of the rapid under the bank on\n',
 'the opposite side of the river from the town of Hsintan. It was an\n',
 'exciting scene. A swirling torrent with a roar like thunder was frothing\n',
 'down the cataract. Above, barriers of rocks athwart the stream stretched\n',
 'like a weir across the river, damming the deep still water behind it.\n',
 'The shore was strewn with boulders. Groups of trackers were on the bank\n',
 'squatting on the rocks to see the foreign devil and his cockleshell.\n',
 'Other Chinese were standing where the side-stream is split by the\n',
 'boulders into narrow races, catching fish with great dexterity, dipping\n',
 'them out of the water with scoop-nets.\n',
 '\n',
 'We rested in some smooth water under shelter and put out our towline;\n',
 'three of my boys jumped ashore and laid hold of it; another with his\n',
 'bamboo boat-hook stood on the bow; the laoban was at the tiller; and I\n',
 'was cooped up useless in the well under the awning. The men started\n',
 'hauling as we pushed out into the sea of waters. The boat quivered, the\n',
 'water leapt at the bow as if it would engulf us; our three men were\n',
 'obviously too few. The boat danced in the rapid. My men on board\n',
 'shrieked excitedly that the towrope was fouling--it had caught in a\n',
 'rock--but their voices could not be heard; our trackers were brought to\n',
 'with a jerk; the hindmost saw the foul and ran back to free it, but he\n',
 'was too late, for the boat had come beam on to the current. Our captain\n',
 'frantically waved to let go, and the next moment we were tossed bodily\n',
 'into the cataract. The boat heeled gunwale under, and suddenly, but the\n',
 'bowman kept his feet like a Blondin, dropped the boat-hook, and jumped\n',
 'to unlash the halyard; a wave buried the boat nose under and swamped me\n',
 'in my kennel; my heart stopped beating, and, scared out of my wits, I\n',
 'began to strip off my sodden clothes; but before I had half done the\n',
 'sail had been set; both men had miraculously fended the boat from a\n',
 "rock, which, by a moment's hesitation, would have smashed us in bits or\n",
 'buried us in the boiling trough formed by the eddy below it, and, with\n',
 'another desperate effort, we had slid from danger into smooth water.\n',
 'Then my men laughed heartily. How it was done I do not know, but I felt\n',
 'keen admiration for the calm dexterity with which it had been done.\n',
 '\n',
 'We baled the water out of the boat, paid out a second towrope--this one\n',
 'from the bow to keep the stern under control, the other being made fast\n',
 'to the mast, and took on board a licensed pilot. Extra trackers, hired\n',
 'for a few cash, laid hold of both towlines, and bodily--the water\n',
 'swelling and foaming under our bows--the boat was hauled against the\n',
 'torrent, and up the ledge of water that stretches across the river. We\n',
 'were now in smooth water at the entrance to the Mi Tsang Gorge. Two\n',
 'stupendous walls of rock, almost perpendicular, as bold and rugged as\n',
 'the Mediterranean side of the Rock of Gibraltar seem folded one behind\n',
 'the other across the river. "Savage cliffs are these, where not a tree\n',
 'and scarcely a blade of grass can grow, and where the stream, which is\n',
 'rather heard than seen, seems to be fretting in vain efforts to escape\n',
 'from its dark and gloomy prison." In the gorge itself the current was\n',
 'restrained, and boats could cross from bank to bank without difficulty.\n',
 'It was an eerie feeling to glide over the sunless water shut in by the\n',
 'stupendous sidewalls of rock. At a sandy spit to the west of the gorge\n',
 'we landed and put things in order. And here I stood and watched the\n',
 'junks disappear down the river one after the other, and I saw the truth\n',
 'of what Hosie had written that, as their masts are always unshipped in\n',
 'the down passage, the junks seem to be "passing with their human freight\n',
 'into eternity."\n',
 '\n',
 'An immensely high declivity with a precipitous face was in front of us,\n',
 'which strained your eyes to look at; yet high up to the summit and to\n',
 'the very edge of the precipice, little farmsteads are dotted, and every\n',
 'yard of land available is under cultivation. So steep is it that the\n',
 'scanty soil must be washed away, you think, at the first rains, and only\n',
 'an adventurous goat could dwell there in comfort. My laoban, Enjeh,\n',
 'pointing to this mighty mass, said, "_Pin su chiao_;" but whether these\n',
 'words were the name of the place, or were intended to convey to me his\n',
 'sense of its magnificence, or dealt with the question of the\n',
 'precariousness of tenure so far above our heads, I had no means to\n',
 'determine.\n',
 '\n',
 'My laoban knew twelve words of English, and I twelve words of Chinese,\n',
 'and this was the extent of our common vocabulary; it had to be carefully\n',
 'eked out with signs and gestures. I knew the Chinese for rice,\n',
 'flourcake, tea, egg, chopsticks, opium, bed, by-and-by, how many,\n',
 'charcoal, cabbage, and customs. My laoban could say in English, or\n',
 'pidgin English, chow, number one, no good, go ashore, sit down,\n',
 'by-and-by, to-morrow, match, lamp, alright, one piecee, and goddam. This\n',
 'last named exotic he had been led to consider as synonymous with "very\n',
 'good." It was not the first time I had known the words to be misapplied.\n',
 'I remember reading in the _Sydney Bulletin_, that a Chinese cook in\n',
 'Sydney when applying for a situation detailed to the mistress his\n',
 'undeniable qualifications, concluding with the memorable announcement,\n',
 '"My Clistian man mum; my eat beef; my say goddam."\n',
 '\n',
 'There was a small village behind us. The villagers strolled down to see\n',
 'the foreigner whom children well in the background called "_Yang\n',
 'kweitze_" (foreign devil). Below on the sand, were the remains of a\n',
 'junk, confiscated for smuggling salt; it had been sawn bodily in two.\n',
 'Salt is a Government monopoly and a junk found smuggling it is\n',
 'confiscated on the spot.\n',
 '\n',
 'Kueichow, on the left bank, is the first walled town we came to. Here\n',
 'we had infinite difficulty in passing the rapids, and crossed and\n',
 'recrossed the river several times. I sat in the boat stripped and\n',
 'shivering, for shipwreck seemed certain, and I did not wish to be\n',
 'drowned like a rat. For cool daring I never saw the equal of my boys,\n',
 'and their nicety of judgment was remarkable. Creeping along close to the\n',
 'bank, every moment in danger of having its bottom knocked out, the boat\n',
 'would be worked to the exact point from which the crossing of the river\n',
 'was feasible, balanced for a moment in the stream, then with sail set\n',
 'and a clipping breeze, and my men working like demons with the oars,\n',
 'taking short strokes, and stamping time with their feet, the boat shot\n',
 'into the current. We made for a rock in the centre of the river; we\n',
 'missed it, and my heart was in my mouth as I saw the rapid below us into\n',
 'which we were being drawn, when the boat mysteriously swung half round\n',
 'and glided under the lee of the rock. One of the boys leapt out with the\n',
 'bow-rope, and the others with scull and boat-hook worked the boat round\n',
 'to the upper edge of the rock, and then, steadying her for the dash\n',
 'across, pushed off again into the swirling current and made like fiends\n',
 'for the bank. Standing on the stern, managing the sheet and tiller, and\n',
 'with his bamboo pole ready, the laoban yelled and stamped in his\n',
 'excitement; there was the roar of the cataract below us, towards which\n',
 'we were fast edging stern on, destruction again threatened us and all\n',
 'seemed over, when in that moment we entered the back-wash and were again\n',
 'in good shelter. And so it went on, my men with splendid skill doing\n',
 'always the right thing, in the right way, at the right time, with\n',
 'unerring certainty.\n',
 '\n',
 'At Yehtan rapid, which is said to be the worst on the river in the\n',
 'winter, as the Hsintan rapid is in summer, three of the boys went\n',
 'ashore to haul us up the ledge of water--they were plainly insufficient.\n',
 'While we were hanging on the cataract extra trackers appeared from\n',
 'behind the rocks and offered their services. They could bargain with us\n',
 'at an advantage. It was a case well known to all Chinese "of speaking of\n',
 'the price after the pig has been killed." But, when we agreed to their\n',
 'terms, they laid hold of the towrope and hauled us through in a moment.\n',
 'Here, as at other dangerous rapids on the river, an official lifeboat is\n',
 'stationed. It is of broad beam, painted red. The sailors are paid eighty\n',
 'cash (_2d._) a day, and are rewarded with 1000 cash for every life they\n',
 'save, and 800 cash for every corpse.\n',
 '\n',
 'Wushan Gorge, the "Witches\' Gorge," which extends from Kuantukou to\n',
 'Wushan-hsien, a distance of twenty miles, is the longest gorge on the\n',
 'river.\n',
 '\n',
 'Directly facing us as we emerged from the gorge was the walled town of\n',
 'Wushan-hsien. Its guardian pagoda, with its seven stories and its\n',
 'upturned gables, like the rim of an official hat, is down-stream from\n',
 'the city, and thus prevents wealth and prosperity being swept by the\n',
 'current past the city.\n',
 '\n',
 'Beyond there is a short but steep rapid. Before a strong wind with all\n',
 'sail set we boldly entered it and determined which was the stronger, the\n',
 'wind or the current. But, while we hung in the current calling and\n',
 'whistling for the wind, the wind flagged for a moment; tension being\n',
 'removed, the bow swung into the rocks; but the water was shallow, and in\n',
 'a trice two of the boys had jumped into the water and were holding the\n',
 'boat-sides. Then poling and pulling we crept up the rapid into smooth\n',
 'water. Never was there any confusion, never a false stroke. To hear my\n',
 'boys jabber in their unintelligible speech you pictured disorder, and\n',
 'disaster, and wild excitement; to see them act you witnessed such\n',
 'coolness, skill, and daring as you had rarely seen before. My boys were\n',
 'all young. The captain was only twenty, and was a model of physical\n',
 'grace, with a face that will gladden the heart of the Chinese maiden\n',
 'whom he condescends to select to be the mother of his children.\n',
 '\n',
 'Junks were making slow progress up the river. The towpath is here on the\n',
 'left bank, sixty feet above the present level of the river. Barefooted\n',
 'trackers, often one hundred in a gang, clamber over the rocks "like a\n',
 'pack of hounds in full cry," each with the coupling over his shoulder\n',
 'and all singing in chorus, the junk they are towing often a quarter of a\n',
 'mile astern of them. When a rapid intervenes they strain like bondmen at\n',
 'the towrope; the line creaks under the enormous tension but holds fast.\n',
 'On board the junk, a drum tattoo is beaten and fire-crackers let off,\n',
 'and a dozen men with long ironshod bamboos sheer the vessel off the\n',
 'rocks as foot by foot it is drawn past the obstruction. Contrast with\n',
 'this toilsome slowness the speed of the junk bound down-stream. Its mast\n',
 'is shipped; its prodigious bow-sweep projects like a low bowsprit; the\n',
 'after deck is covered as far as midships with arched mat-roof; coils of\n',
 'bamboo rope are hanging under the awning; a score or more of boatmen,\n',
 'standing to their work and singing to keep time, work the yulos, as\n',
 'looking like a modern whaleback the junk races down the rapids.\n',
 '\n',
 'Kweichou-fu, 146 miles from Ichang, is one of the largest cities on the\n',
 'Upper Yangtse. Just before it is the Feng-hsiang Gorge the "Windbox\n',
 'Gorge" where the mountains have been again cleft in twain to let pass\n',
 'the river; this is the last of the great gorges of the Yangtse.\n',
 '\n',
 'We had left the province of Hupeh. Kweichou is the first prefectural\n',
 'city that the traveller meets in Szechuen; for that reason my laoban\n',
 'required me to give him my passport that he might take it ashore and\n',
 'have it viseed by the magistrate. While he was away two Customs\n',
 'officials searched my boat for contraband goods. When he returned, he\n',
 'had to pay a squeeze at the Customs station. We clawed with our hooked\n',
 'bamboos round the sterns of a hundred Szechuen junks, and were again\n',
 'arrested at a likin boat, and more cash passed from my laoban to the\n',
 'officials in charge. We went on again, when a third time we came face on\n',
 'to a likin-barrier, and a third time my laoban was squeezed. After this\n',
 'we were permitted to continue our journey. For the rest of the day\n',
 'whenever the laoban caught my eye he raised three fingers and with a\n',
 'rueful shake of the head said "Kweichou haikwan (customs) no good"; and\n',
 'then he swore, no doubt.\n',
 '\n',
 'My little boat was the smallest on the river. In sailing it could hold\n',
 'its own with all but the long ferry boats or tenders which accompany the\n',
 'larger junks to land the trackers and towline. These boats carry a huge\n',
 'square sail set vertically from sheer legs, and are very fast. But in\n',
 'rowing, poling, and tracking we could beat the river.\n',
 '\n',
 'Anping was passed--a beautiful country town in a landscape of red hills\n',
 'and rich green pastures, of groves of bamboo and cypress, of pretty\n',
 'little farmhouses with overhanging eaves and picturesque temples in\n',
 'wooded glens.\n',
 '\n',
 'At Chipatzu there are the remains of a remarkable embankment built of\n',
 'huge blocks of dressed stone resting upon a noble brow of natural rock;\n',
 'deep Chinese characters are cut into the stone; but the glory is\n',
 'departed and there are now only a few straggling huts where there was\n',
 'once a large city.\n',
 '\n',
 'The river was now at its lowest and at every point of sand and shingle,\n',
 'meagre bands of gold puddlers were at work washing for gold in cradle\n',
 'rockers. To judge, however, from the shabbiness of their surroundings\n',
 'there was little fear that their gains would disturb the equilibrium of\n',
 "the world's gold yield.\n",
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'CHAPTER III.\n',
 '\n',
 'THE CITY OF WANHSIEN, AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN TO CHUNGKING.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'At daylight, on March 1st, we were abreast of the many storied pagoda,\n',
 'whose lofty position, commanding the approach to the city, brings good\n',
 'fortune to the city of Wanhsien. A beautiful country is this--the\n',
 'chocolate soil richly tilled, the sides of the hills dotted with\n',
 'farmhouses in groves of bamboo and cedar, with every variety of green in\n',
 'the fields, shot through with blazing patches of the yellow rape-seed.\n',
 'The current was swift, the water was shallow where we were tracking, and\n',
 'we were constantly aground in the shingle; but we rounded the point, and\n',
 'Wanhsien was before us. This is the half-way city between Ichang and\n',
 'Chungking. My smart laoban dressed himself in his best to be ready to go\n',
 'ashore with me; he was jubilant at his skill in bringing me so quickly.\n',
 '"Sampan number one! goddam!" he said; and, holding up two hands, he\n',
 'turned down seven fingers to show that we had come in seven days. Then\n',
 'he pointed to other boats that we were passing, and counted on his\n',
 'fingers fifteen, whereby I knew he was demonstrating that, had I gone in\n',
 'any other boat but his, I should have been fifteen days on the way\n',
 'instead of seven.\n',
 '\n',
 'An immense number of junks of all kinds were moored to the bank, bow on.\n',
 'Many of them were large vessels, with hulls like that of an Aberdeen\n',
 'clipper. Many carry foreign flags, by which they are exempt from the\n',
 'Chinese likin duties, so capricious in their imposition, and pay instead\n',
 'a general five per cent. _ad valorem_ duty on their cargoes, which is\n',
 'levied by the Imperial Maritime Customs, and collected either in\n',
 'Chungking or Ichang. From one to the other, with boathooks and paddle,\n',
 'we crept past the outer wings of their balanced rudders till we reached\n',
 'the landing place. On the rocks at the landing a bevy of women were\n',
 'washing, beating their hardy garments with wooden flappers against the\n',
 'stones; but they ceased their work as the foreign devil, in his uncouth\n',
 'garb, stepped ashore in their midst. Wanhsien is not friendly to\n',
 'foreigners in foreign garb. I did not know this, and went ashore dressed\n',
 'as a European. Never have I received such a spontaneous welcome as I did\n',
 'in this city; never do I wish to receive such another. I landed at the\n',
 'mouth of the small creek which separates the large walled city to the\n',
 'east from the still larger city beyond the walls to the west. My laoban\n',
 'was with me. We passed through the washerwomen. Boys and ragamuffins\n',
 'hanging about the shipping saw me, and ran towards me, yelling: "_Yang\n',
 'kweitze, Yang kweitze_" (foreign devil, foreign devil).\n',
 '\n',
 'Behind the booths a story-teller had gathered a crowd; in a moment he\n',
 'was alone and the crowd were following me up the hill, yelling and\n',
 'howling with a familiarity most offensive to a sensitive stranger. My\n',
 'sturdy boy wished me to produce my passport which is the size of an\n',
 "admiral's ensign, but I was not such a fool as to do so for it had to\n",
 'serve me for many months yet. With this taunting noisy crowd I had to\n',
 'walk on as if I enjoyed the demonstration. I stopped once and spoke to\n',
 'the crowd, and, as I knew no Chinese, I told them in gentle English of\n',
 'the very low opinion their conduct led me to form of the moral\n',
 'relations of their mothers, and the resignation with which it induced me\n',
 'to contemplate the hyperpyretic surroundings of their posthumous\n',
 'existence; and, borrowing the Chinese imprecation, I ventured to express\n',
 'the hope that when their souls return again to earth they may dwell in\n',
 'the bodies of hogs, since they appeared to me the only habitations meet\n',
 'for them.\n',
 '\n',
 'But my words were useless. With a smiling face, but rage at my heart, I\n',
 'led the procession up the creek to a stone bridge where large numbers\n',
 'left me, only to have their places taken on the other bank by a still\n',
 'more enthusiastic gathering. I stopped here a moment in the jostling\n',
 'crowd to look up-stream at that singular natural bridge, which an\n',
 'enormous mass of stone has formed across the creek, and I could see the\n',
 'high arched bridge beyond it, which stretches from bank to bank in one\n',
 'noble span, and is so high above the water that junks can pass under it\n',
 'in the summer time when the rains swell this little stream into a broad\n',
 'and navigable river.\n',
 '\n',
 'Then we climbed the steep bank into the city and entering by a dirty\n',
 'narrow street we emerged into the main thoroughfare, the crowd still\n',
 'following and the shops emptying into the street to see me. We passed\n',
 'the Mohammedan Mosque, the Roman Catholic Mission, the City Temple, to a\n',
 'Chinese house where I was slipped into the court and the door shut, and\n',
 'then into another to find that I was in the home of the China Inland\n',
 'Mission, and that the pigtailed celestial receiving me at the steps was\n',
 'Mr. Hope Gill. It was my clothes I then learnt that had caused the\n',
 'manifestation in my honour. An hour later, when I came out again into\n',
 'the street, the crowd was waiting still to see me, but it was\n',
 'disappointed to see me now dressed like one of themselves. In the\n',
 'meantime I had resumed my Chinese dress. "Look," the people said, "at\n',
 'the foreigner; he had on foreign dress, and now he is dressed in Chinese\n',
 'even to his queue. Look at his queue, it is false." I took off my hat to\n',
 'scratch my head. "Look," they shouted again, "at his queue; it is stuck\n',
 'to the inside of his hat." But they ceased to follow me.\n',
 '\n',
 'There are three Missionaries in Wanhsien of the China Inland Mission,\n',
 'one of whom is from Sydney. The mission has been opened six years, and\n',
 'has been fairly successful, or completely unsuccessful, according to the\n',
 'point of view of the inquirer.\n',
 '\n',
 'Mr. Hope Gill, the senior member of the mission, is a most earnest good\n',
 'man, who works on in his discouraging task with an enthusiasm and\n',
 'devotion beyond all praise. A Premillennialist, he preaches without\n',
 'ceasing throughout the city; and his preaching is earnest and\n',
 'indiscriminate. His method has been sarcastically likened by the\n',
 'Chinese, in the words of one of their best-known aphorisms, to the\n',
 'unavailing efforts of a "blind fowl picking at random after worms."\n',
 'Nearly all the Chinese in Wanhsien have heard the doctrine described\n',
 'with greater or less unintelligibility, and it is at their own risk if\n',
 'they still refuse to be saved.\n',
 '\n',
 'During the cholera epidemic this brave man never left his post; he never\n',
 'refused a call to attend the sick and dying, and, at the risk of his\n',
 'own, saved many lives. And what is his reward? This work he did, the\n',
 'Chinese say, not from a disinterested love of his fellows, which was his\n',
 'undoubted motive, but to accumulate merit for himself in the invisible\n',
 'world beyond the grave. "Gratitude," says this missionary, and it is the\n',
 'opinion of many, "is a condition of heart, or of mind, which seems to be\n',
 'incapable of existence in the body of a Chinaman." Yet other\n',
 'missionaries tell me that no man can possess a livelier sense of\n',
 'gratitude than a Chinaman, or manifest it with more sincerity. "If our\n',
 'words are compared to the croaking of the frog, we heed it not, but\n',
 'freely express the feelings of our heart," are actual words addressed by\n',
 'a grateful Chinese patient to the first medical missionary in China. And\n',
 'the Chinaman himself will tell you, says Smith, "that it does not follow\n',
 'that, because he does not exhibit gratitude he does not feel it. When\n',
 'the dumb man swallows a tooth he may not say much about it, but it is\n',
 'all inside."\n',
 '\n',
 'Since its foundation in 1887, the Inland Mission of Wanhsien has been\n',
 'conducted with brave perseverance. There are, unfortunately, no\n',
 'converts, but there are three hopeful "inquirers," whose conversion\n',
 'would be the more speedy the more likely they were to obtain employment\n',
 'afterwards. They argue in this way; they say, to quote the words used by\n',
 'the Rev. G. L. Mason at the Shanghai Missionary Conference of 1890, "if\n',
 'the foreign teacher will take care of our bodies, we will do him the\n',
 'favour to seek the salvation of our souls." This question of the\n',
 'employment of converts is one of the chief difficulties of the\n',
 'missionary in China. "The idea (derived from Buddhism) is universally\n',
 'prevalent in China," says the Rev. C. W. Mateer, "that everyone who\n',
 'enters any sect should live by it.... When a Chinaman becomes a\n',
 'Christian he expects to live by his Christianity."\n',
 '\n',
 'One of the three inquirers was shown me; he was described as the most\n',
 'advanced of the three in knowledge of the doctrine. Now I do not wish to\n',
 'write unkindly, but I am compelled to say that this man was a poor,\n',
 'wretched, ragged coolie, who sells the commonest gritty cakes in a\n',
 'rickety stall round the corner from the mission, who can neither read\n',
 'nor write, and belongs to a very humble order of blunted intelligence.\n',
 'The poor fellow is the father of a little girl of three, an only child,\n',
 'who is both deaf and dumb. And there is the fear that his fondness for\n',
 'the little one tempts him to give hope to the missionaries that in him\n',
 'they are to see the first fruit of their toil, the first in the district\n',
 'to be saved by their teaching, while he nurses a vague hope that, when\n',
 'the foreign teachers regard him as adequately converted, they may be\n',
 'willing to restore speech and hearing to his poor little offspring. It\n',
 'is a scant harvest.\n',
 '\n',
 'After a Chinese dinner the missionary and I went for a walk into the\n',
 'country. In the main street we met a troop of beggars, each with a bowl\n',
 'of rice and garbage and a long stick, with a few tattered rags hanging\n',
 'round his loins--they were the poorest poor I had ever seen. They were\n',
 'the beggars of the city, who had just received their midday meal at the\n',
 '"Wanhsien Ragged Homes." There are three institutions of the kind in the\n',
 'city for the relief of the destitute; they are entirely supported by\n',
 'charity, and are said to have an average annual income of 40,000 taels.\n',
 'Wanhsien is a very rich city, with wealthy merchants and great salt\n',
 'hongs. The landed gentry and the great junk owners have their town\n',
 'houses here. The money distributed by the townspeople in private charity\n',
 'is unusually great even for a Chinese city. Its most public-spirited\n',
 "citizen is Ch'en, one of the merchant princes of China whose\n",
 'transactions are confined exclusively to the products of his own\n',
 'country. Starting life with an income of one hundred taels, bequeathed\n',
 "him by his father, Ch'en has now agents all over the empire, and\n",
 'mercantile dealings which are believed to yield him a clear annual\n',
 'income of a quarter of a million taels. His probity is a by-word; his\n',
 'benefactions have enriched the province. That cutting in the face of the\n',
 'cliff in the Feng-hsiang Gorge near Kweichou-fu, where a pathway for\n',
 'trackers has been hewn out of the solid rock, was done at his expense,\n',
 'and is said to have cost one hundred thousand taels. Not only by his\n',
 "benefactions has Ch'en laid up for himself merit in heaven, but he has\n",
 'already had his reward in this world. His son presented himself for the\n',
 'M.A. examination for the Hanlin degree, the highest academical degree in\n',
 'the Empire. Everyone in China knows that success in this examination is\n',
 'dependent upon the favour of Wunchang-te-keun, the god of literature\n',
 '(Taoist) "who from generation to generation hath sent his miraculous\n',
 'influence down upon earth", and, as the god had seen with approbation\n',
 'the good works done by the father, he gave success to the son. When the\n',
 'son returned home after his good fortune, he was met beyond the walls\n',
 'and escorted into the city with royal honours; his success was a triumph\n',
 'for the city which gave him birth.\n',
 '\n',
 'A short walk and we were out of the city, following a flagged path with\n',
 'flights of steps winding up the hill through levelled terraces rich with\n',
 'every kind of cereal, and with abundance of poppy. Splendid views of one\n',
 'of the richest agricultural regions in the world are here unfolded. Away\n',
 'down in the valley is the palatial family mansion of Pien, one of the\n',
 'wealthiest yeomen in the province. Beyond you see the commencement of\n',
 'the high road, a paved causeway eight feet wide, which extends for\n',
 'hundreds of miles to Chentu, the capital of the province, and takes rank\n',
 'as the finest work of its kind in the empire. On every hill-top is a\n',
 'fort. That bolder than the rest commanding the city at a distance of\n',
 'five miles, is on the "Hill of Heavenly Birth." It was built, says\n',
 'Hobson, during the Taiping Rebellion; it existed, says the missionary,\n',
 'before the present dynasty; discrepant statements characteristic of this\n',
 'country of contradictions. But, whether thirty or two hundred and fifty\n',
 'years old, the fort is now one in name only, and is at present occupied\n',
 'by a garrison of peaceful peasantry.\n',
 '\n',
 'Chinamen that we met asked us politely "if we had eaten our rice," and\n',
 '"whither were we going." We answered correctly. But when with equal\n',
 'politeness we asked the wayfarer where he was going, he jerked his chin\n',
 'towards the horizon and said, "a long way."\n',
 '\n',
 'We called at the residence of a rich young Chinese, who had lately\n',
 'received it in his inheritance, together with 3000 acres of farmland,\n',
 'which, we were told, yield him an annual income of 70,000 taels. In the\n',
 'absence of the master, who was away in the country reading with his\n',
 'tutor for the Hanlin degree, we were received by the caretakers, who\n',
 'showed us the handsome guest chambers, the splendid gilded tablet, the\n',
 'large courts, and garden rockeries. A handsome residence is this,\n',
 'solidly built of wood and masonry, and with the trellis work carved with\n',
 'much elaboration.\n',
 '\n',
 'It was late when we returned to the mission, and after dark when I went\n',
 'on board my little wupan. My boys had not been idle. They had bought new\n',
 'provisions of excellent quality, and had made the boat much more\n',
 'comfortable. The three kind missionaries came down to wish me Godspeed.\n',
 'Brave men! they deserve a kinder fortune than has been their fate\n',
 'hitherto. We crossed the river and anchored above the city, ready\n',
 'against an early start in the morning.\n',
 '\n',
 'The day after leaving Wanhsien was the first time that we required any\n',
 'assistance on our journey from another junk; it was cheerfully given.\n',
 'Our towrope had chafed through, and we were in a difficulty, attempting\n',
 'to pass a bad rapid among the rocks, when a large junk was hauled bodily\n',
 'past us, and, seeing our plight, hooked on to us and towed us with them\n',
 'out of danger. On this night we anchored under the Sentinel Rock\n',
 '(Shih-pao-chai), perhaps the most remarkable landmark on the river. From\n',
 'two hundred to three hundred feet high, and sixty feet wide at the base,\n',
 'it is a detached rock, cleft vertically from a former cliff. A\n',
 'nine-storied pagoda has been inset into the south-eastern face, and\n',
 'temple buildings crown the summit.\n',
 '\n',
 'It was surprising how well my men lived on board the boat. They had\n',
 'three good meals a day, always with rice and abundance of vegetables,\n',
 'and frequently with a little pork. Cooking was done while we were under\n',
 'way; for the purpose we had two little earthenware stoves, two pans, and\n',
 'a kettle. All along the river cabbages and turnips are abundant and\n',
 'cheap. Bumboats, laden to the rail, waylay the boats _en route_, and\n',
 'offer an armful of fresh vegetables for the equivalent in copper cash of\n',
 'three-eighths of a penny. Other boats peddle firewood, cut short and\n',
 'bound in little bundles, and sticks of charcoal. Coal is everywhere\n',
 'abundant, and there are excellent briquettes for sale, made of a mixture\n',
 'of clay and coal-dust.\n',
 '\n',
 'All day long now for the rest of our voyage we sailed through a\n',
 "beautiful country. From the hill tops to the water's edge the hillsides\n",
 'are levelled into a succession of terraces; there are cereals and the\n',
 'universal poppy, pretty hamlets, and thriving little villages; a river\n',
 'half a mile wide thronged with every kind of river craft, and back in\n',
 'the distance snow-clad mountains. There are bamboo sheds at every point,\n',
 'with coils of bamboo towrope, mats, and baskets, and huge Szechuen hats\n',
 'as wide as an umbrella.\n',
 '\n',
 'On the morning of March 5th I was awakened by loud screaming and yelling\n',
 'ahead of us. I squeezed out of my cabin, and saw a huge junk looming\n',
 'down upon us. In an awkward rapid its towline had parted, and the huge\n',
 'structure tumbling uncontrolled in the water, was bearing down on us,\n',
 'broadside on. It seemed as if we should be crushed against the rocks,\n',
 'and we must have been, but for the marvellous skill with which the\n',
 'sailors on the junk, just at the critical time, swung their vessel out\n',
 'of danger. They were yelling with discord, but worked together as one\n',
 'man.\n',
 '\n',
 'In the afternoon we were at Feng-tu-hsien, a flourishing river port, one\n',
 'of the principal outlets of the opium traffic of the Upper Yangtse. Next\n',
 'day we were at Fuchou, the other opium port, whose trade in opium is\n',
 'greater still than that of Feng-tu-hsien. It is at the junction of a\n',
 "large tributary--the Kung-t'-an-ho, which is navigable for large vessels\n",
 'for more than two hundred miles. Large numbers of the Fuchou junks were\n',
 'moored here, which differ in construction from all other junks on the\n',
 'river Yangtse in having their great sterns twisted or wrung a quarter\n',
 'round to starboard, and in being steered by an immense stern sweep, and\n',
 'not by the balanced rudder of an ordinary junk.\n',
 '\n',
 "The following day, after a long day's work, we moored beyond the town of\n",
 'Chang-show-hsien. Here I paid the laoban 2000 cash, whereupon he paid\n',
 'his men something on account, and then blandly suggested a game of\n',
 'cards. He was fast winning back his money, when I intervened and bade\n',
 'them turn in, as I wished to make an early start in the morning. The\n',
 'river seemed to get broader, deeper, and more rapid as we ascended; the\n',
 'trackers, on the contrary, became thinner, narrower, and more decrepit.\n',
 '\n',
 'On March 8th, our fourteenth day out, disaster nearly overtook us when\n',
 "within a day's sail of our destination. Next day we reached Chungking\n",
 'safely, having done by some days the fastest journey on record up the\n',
 'Yangtse rapids. My captain and his young crew had finished the journey\n',
 'within the time agreed upon.\n',
 '\n',
 '[Illustration: THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA.]\n',
 '\n',
 '[Illustration: MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN.]\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'CHAPTER IV.\n',
 '\n',
 'THE CITY OF CHUNGKING--THE CHINESE CUSTOMS--THE FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS,\n',
 'AND A FEW WORDS ON THE OPIUM FALLACY.\n',
 '\n',
 '\n',
 'After passing through the gorge known as Tung-lo-hsia ten miles from\n',
 'Chungking, the laoban tried to attract my attention, calling me from my\n',
 'crib and pointing with his chin up the river repeating "Haikwan one\n',
 'piecee," which I interpreted to mean that there was an outpost of the\n',
 'customs here in charge of one white man; and this proved to be the case.\n',
 'The customs kuatze or houseboat was moored to the left bank; the\n',
 'Imperial Customs flag floated gaily over an animated collection of\n',
 'native craft. We drew alongside the junk and an Englishman appeared at\n',
 'the window.\n',
 '\n',
 '"Where from?" he asked, laconically.\n',
 '\n',
 '"Australia."\n',
 '\n',
 '"The devil, so am I. What part?"\n',
 '\n',
 '"Victoria."\n',
 '\n',
 '"So am I. Town?"\n',
 '\n',
 '"Last from Ballarat."\n',
 '\n',
 '"My native town, by Jove! Jump up."\n',
 '\n',
 'I gave him my card. He looked at it and said, "When I was last in\n',
 'Victoria I used to follow with much interest a curious walk across\n',
 'Australia, from the Gulf of Carpentaria to Melbourne done by a namesake.\n',
 'Any relation? The same man! I\'m delighted to see you." Here then at the\n',
 'most inland of the customs stations in China, 1500 miles from the sea,\n',
 'I met my fellow countryman who was born near my home and whose father\n',
 'was a well-known Mayor of Ballarat City.\n',
 '\n',
 'Like myself he had formerly been a student of Melbourne University, but\n',
 'I was many years his senior. What was his experience of the University I\n',
 'forgot to inquire, but mine I remember vividly enough; for it was not\n',
 'happy. In the examination for the Second-year Medicine, hoping the more\n',
 'to impress the Professors, I entered my name for honours--and they\n',
 'rejected me in the preliminary pass. It seems that in the examination in\n',
 'Materia Medica, I had among other trifling lapses prescribed a dose of\n',
 'Oleum Crotonis of "one half to two drachms _carefully increased_." I\n',
 'confess that I had never heard of the wretched stuff; the question was\n',
 'taken from far on in the text book and, unfortunately, my reading had\n',
 'not extended quite so far. When a deputation from my family waited upon\n',
 'the examiner to ascertain the cause of my misadventure, the only\n',
 'satisfaction we got was the obliging assurance "that you might as well\n',
 'let a mad dog loose in Collins Street" as allow me to become a doctor.\n',
 'And then the examiner produced my prescription. But I thought I saw a\n',
 'faint chance of escape. I pointed a nervous finger to the two words\n',
 '"carefully increased," and pleaded that that indication of caution ought\n',
 'to save me. "Save _you_ it might," he shouted with unnecessary\n',
 'vehemence; "but, God bless my soul, man, it would not save your\n',
 'patient." The examiner was a man intemperate of speech; so I left the\n',
 'University. It was a severe blow to the University, but the University\n',
 'survived it.\n',
 '\n',
 'My countryman had been five years in China in the customs service, that\n',
 'marvellous organisation which is more impartially open to all the world\n',
 'than any other service in the world. As an example, I note that among\n',
 'the Commissioners of Customs at the ports of the River Yangtse alone, at\n',
 'the time of my voyage the Commissioner at Shanghai was an Austrian, at\n',
 'Kiukiang a Frenchman, at Hankow an Englishman, at Ichang a Scandinavian,\n',
 'and at Chungking a German.\n',
 '\n',
 'The Australian had been ten months at Chungking. His up-river journey\n',
 'occupied thirty-eight days, and was attended with one moving incident.\n',
 'In the Hsintan rapid the towline parted, and his junk was smashed to\n',
 'pieces by the rocks, and all that he possessed destroyed. It was in this\n',
 'rapid that my boat narrowly escaped disaster, but there was this\n',
 'difference in our experiences, that at the time of his accident the\n',
 'river was sixty feet higher than on the occasion of mine.\n',
 '\n',
 'Tang-chia-to, the customs out-station, is ten miles by river from\n',
 'Chungking, but not more than four miles by land. So I sent the boat on,\n',
 'and in the afternoon walked over to the city. A customs coolie came with\n',
 'me to show me the way. My friend accompanied me to the river crossing,\n',
 'walking with me through fields of poppy and sugarcane, and open beds of\n',
 'tobacco. At the river side he left me to return to his solitary home,\n',
 'while I crossed the river in a sampan, and then set out over the hills\n',
 'to Chungking. It was more than ever noticeable, the poor hungry\n',
 'wretchedness of the river coolies. For three days past all the trackers\n',
 'I had seen were the most wretched in physique of any I had met in China.\n',
 'Phthisis and malaria prevail among them; their work is terribly arduous;\n',
 'they suffer greatly from exposure; they appear to be starving in the\n',
 'midst of abundance. My coolie showed well by contrast with the trackers;\n',
 'he was sleek and well fed. A "chop dollar," as he would be termed down\n',
 'south, for his face was punched or chopped with the small-pox, he swung\n',
 ...]

edited_content[:30]

['In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan.\n',
 'It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and\n',
 'then, dressed as a Chinese, to cross quietly over Western China, the\n',
 'Chinese Shan States, and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma. The\n',
 'ensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey,\n',
 'which a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable\n',
 'undertaking, can now be done.\n',
 '\n',
 'The journey was, of course, in no sense one of exploration; it consisted\n',
 'simply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River, followed by a\n',
 'quiet, though extended, excursion of another 1500 miles along the great\n',
 'overland highway into Burma, taken by one who spoke no Chinese, who had\n',
 'no interpreter or companion, who was unarmed, but who trusted implicitly\n',
 'in the good faith of the Chinese. Anyone in the world can cross over to\n',
 'Burma in the way I did, provided he be willing to exercise for a certain\n',
 'number of weeks or months some endurance--for he will have to travel\n',
 'many miles on foot over a mountainous country--and much forbearance.\n',
 '\n',
 'I went to China possessed with the strong racial antipathy to the\n',
 'Chinese common to my countrymen, but that feeling has long since given\n',
 'way to one of lively sympathy and gratitude, and I shall always look\n',
 'back with pleasure to this journey, during which I experienced, while\n',
 'traversing provinces as wide as European kingdoms, uniform kindness and\n',
 'hospitality, and the most charming courtesy. In my case, at least, the\n',
 'Chinese did not forget their precept, "deal gently with strangers from\n',
 'afar."\n',
 '\n',
 "I left Shanghai on Sunday, February 11th, by the Jardine Matheson's\n",
 'steamer _Taiwo_. One kind friend, a merchant captain who had seen life\n',
 'in every important seaport in the world, came down, though it was past\n']

import re
pattern = "\w[A-Z]+[.]"
edited_content = re.sub(pattern, "", " ".join(edited_content))

lines_list = tokenize.sent_tokenize(edited_content)

sid = SentimentIntensityAnalyzer()

for sentence in lines_list[40:70]:
     print(sentence)
     ss = sid.polarity_scores(sentence)
     for k in sorted(ss):
         print('{0}: {1}, '.format(k, ss[k]), end='')
     print()

He has iron and coal mines, with a railway seventeen
 miles long from the mines to the river, and specially constructed
 river-steamers and special hoisting machinery at the river-banks.
compound: 0.4019, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.909, pos: 0.091, 
Money
 he has poured out like water; he is probably the only important official
 in China who will leave office a poor man.
compound: -0.0, neg: 0.162, neu: 0.677, pos: 0.162, 
Acting as private secretary to the Viceroy is a clever Chinese named Kaw
 Hong Beng, the author of _Defensio Populi_, that often-quoted attack
 upon missionary methods which appeared first in _The North China Daily
 News_.
compound: -0.0258, neg: 0.081, neu: 0.84, pos: 0.079, 
A linguist of unusual ability, who publishes in _The Daily News_
 translations from Heine in English verse, Kaw is gifted with a rare
 command over the resources of English.
compound: 0.3182, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.919, pos: 0.081, 
He is a Master of Arts of the
 University of Edinburgh.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
Yet, strange paradox, notwithstanding that he
 had the privilege of being trained in the most pious and earnest
 community in the United Kingdom, under the lights of the United
 Presbyterian Kirk, Free Kirk, Episcopalian Church, and _The_ Kirk, not
 to mention a large and varied assortment of Dissenting Churches of more
 or less dubious orthodoxy, he is openly hostile to the introduction of
 Christianity into China.
compound: 0.8268, neg: 0.104, neu: 0.707, pos: 0.189, 
And nowhere in China is the opposition to the
 introduction of Christianity more intense than in the Yangtse valley.
compound: 0.1513, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.919, pos: 0.081, 
In
 this intensity many thoughtful missionaries see the greater hope of the
 ultimate conversion of this portion of China; opposition they say is a
 better aid to missionary success than mere apathy.
compound: 0.9081, neg: 0.053, neu: 0.598, pos: 0.349, 
During the time I was in China, I met large numbers of missionaries of
 all classes, in many cities from Peking to Canton, and they unanimously
 expressed satisfaction at the progress they are making in China.
compound: 0.6908, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.849, pos: 0.151, 
Expressed succinctly, their harvest may be described as amounting to a
 fraction more than two Chinamen per missionary per annum.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
If, however,
 the paid ordained and unordained native helpers be added to the number
 of missionaries, you find that the aggregate body converts nine-tenths
 of a Chinaman per worker per annum; but the missionaries deprecate their
 work being judged by statistics.
compound: 0.1779, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.934, pos: 0.066, 
There are 1511 Protestant missionaries
 labouring in the Empire; and, estimating their results from the
 statistics of previous years as published in the _Chinese Recorder_, we
 find that they gathered last year (1893) into the fold 3127 Chinese--not
 all of whom it is feared are genuine Christians--at a cost of _L350,000_,
 a sum equal to the combined incomes of the ten chief London hospitals.
compound: -0.4939, neg: 0.05, neu: 0.95, pos: 0.0, 
Hankow itself swarms with missionaries, "who are unhappily divided into
 so many sects, that even a foreigner is bewildered by their number, let
 alone the heathen to whom they are accredited."
compound: -0.5574, neg: 0.148, neu: 0.813, pos: 0.039, 
(Medhurst.)
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
Dwelling in well-deserved comfort in and around the foreign settlement,
 there are members of the London Missionary Society, of the Tract
 Society, of the Local Tract Society, of the British and Foreign Bible
 Society, of the National Bible Society of Scotland, of the American
 Bible Society; there are Quaker missionaries, Baptist, Wesleyan, and
 Independent missionaries of private means; there are members of the
 Church Missionary Society, of the American Board of Missions, and of the
 American High Church Episcopal Mission; there is a Medical Mission in
 connection with the London Missionary Society, there is a flourishing
 French Mission under a bishop, the "_Missions etrangeres de Paris_," a
 Mission of Franciscan Fathers, most of whom are Italian, and a Spanish
 Mission of the Order of St. Augustine.
compound: 0.3818, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.971, pos: 0.029, 
The China Inland Mission has its chief central distributing station at
 Hankow, and here also are the headquarters of a Scandinavian Mission, of
 a Danish Mission, and of an unattached mission, most of the members of
 which are also Danish.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
Where there are so many missions, of so many
 different sects, and holding such widely divergent views, it is, I
 suppose, inevitable that each mission should look with some disfavour
 upon the work done by its neighbours, should have some doubts as to the
 expediency of their methods, and some reasonable misgivings as to the
 genuineness of their conversions.
compound: -0.296, neg: 0.037, neu: 0.963, pos: 0.0, 
The Chinese "Rice Christians," those spurious Christians who become
 converted in return for being provided with rice, are just those who
 profit by these differences of opinion, and who, with timely lapses from
 grace, are said to succeed in being converted in turn by all the
 missions from the Augustins to the Quakers.
compound: 0.836, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.849, pos: 0.151, 
Every visitor to Hankow and to all other open ports, who is a supporter
 of missionary effort, is pleased to find that his preconceived notions
 as to the hardships and discomforts of the open port missionary in China
 are entirely false.
compound: 0.4019, neg: 0.052, neu: 0.835, pos: 0.113, 
Comfort and pleasures of life are there as great as
 in any other country.
compound: 0.8591, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.537, pos: 0.463, 
Among the most comfortable residences in Hankow
 are the quarters of the missionaries; and it is but right that the
 missionaries should be separated as far as possible from all
 discomfort--missionaries who are sacrificing all for China, and who are
 prepared to undergo any reasonable hardship to bring enlightenment to
 this land of darkness.
compound: -0.2031, neg: 0.091, neu: 0.832, pos: 0.077, 
I called at the headquarters of the Spanish mission of Padres Agustinos
 and smoked a cigarette with two of the Padres, and exchanged
 reminiscences of Valladolid and Barcelona.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
And I can well conceive,
 having seen the extreme dirtiness of the mission premises, how little
 the Spaniard has to alter his ways in order to make them conform to the
 more ancient civilisation of the Chinese.
compound: 0.2732, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.943, pos: 0.057, 
In Hankow there is a large foreign concession with a handsome embankment
 lined by large buildings.
compound: 0.4939, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.802, pos: 0.198, 
There is a rise and fall in the river between
 summer and winter levels of nearly sixty feet.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
In the summer the river
 laps the edge of the embankment and may overflow into the concession; in
 the winter, broad steps lead down to the edge of the water which, even
 when shrunk into its bed, is still more than half a mile in width.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
Our
 handsome consulate is at one end of the embankment; at the other there
 is a remarkable municipal building which was designed by a former City
 constable, who was, I hope, more expert with the handcuffs than he was
 with the pencil.
compound: 0.8658, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.788, pos: 0.212, 
[Illustration: THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE ]
 
 Our interests in Hankow are protected by Mr. Pelham Warren, the Consul,
 one of the ablest men in the Service.
compound: 0.5994, neg: 0.0, neu: 0.818, pos: 0.182, 
I registered at the Consulate as a
 British subject and obtained a Chinese passport in terms of the Treaty
 of Tientsin for the four provinces Hupeh, Szechuen, Kweichow, and
 Yunnan, available for one year from the date of issue.
compound: 0.0, neg: 0.0, neu: 1.0, pos: 0.0, 
I had no servant.
compound: -0.296, neg: 0.524, neu: 0.476, pos: 0.0,